GMC Safari/Chevy Astro Electrical Problems
I have a 2000 Astro AWD. It is an off lease vehicle and wasn't treated very well. When it rains for a period longer than 12 hours, weird things happen to the electrical system. Last time it was the door locks, locking and unlocking on it's own. They would cycle 4 or five time a minute. Now is the fan and the A/C cycling. I also noticed that I am missing a high beam and have checked all the fuses and the bulb?
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I'm trying to disassemble a 2002 Montana Door Power window switch to change the bulb inside.
Could anyone give me a hint as to how to remove the top to get at the bulb?
Cheers!
Ralph
I was wondering if any of you guys knew whether the radio clock in a 1995 Safari should remain on even when the van is off. I don't remember it staying on before. Basically I have to jump my van off every two days because after sitting up for a couple of days, the battery is totally dead. Now the radio clock only draws .25amps, that shouldn't kill a good battery in 2 days. I took the battery in to AutoZone to have it checked, they say it's good, but I'm having my doubts.
the left side of my fuse block is dead, horn, dome, tail lamps ect. i also have no power to the headlight switch. by jumping the head light switch with a hot wire i can back feed the left side of the fuse block. i assume i have a fuse or circuit breaker blown but i can not find it and i can't find a wiring diagram to help it leads me to a convenience center that does not exist. i checked in the engine compartment and i can't find an inline fuse
i need to know what feeds these items from the source and where any circuit breakers or fuses would be located can anybody help
thanks
whether by hand or keyless would blow the fuse after just a few trys. Now our 2004 Astro is doing the same thing... anybody relate ??? any ideas ?????
Does anyone by chance know where the blower motor resistor is for a 1995 Safari?????????
I have a peculiar problem with the headlighs. Driving with high beam on, it suddenly goes complete black! Switching to low beam gives me low beam all right. When I switch back to high beam, the light stays on for 20 seconds to a couple of minutes, then it goes black again. I have H4 bulbs 100/90W.
Any ideas?
Very Truly Yours,
S.Williams
p.s.
I responded to your message because it came to my email address. Once again, good luck.
Maybe I can be of some help to solve your instrument panel lights problem.
Possible cause:
1 No ignition feed to the instrument cluster
Remove the large 17 pin connector from the instrument cluster. Using a digital Volt/Ohm meter, measure the voltage from pin A13 to gnd with the ignition in run. The meter should read battery voltage. If the readings are less than battery voltage, or zero, repair the pink/white wire from the ignition switch.
2 No ground to the cluster
Measure the resistance from pin A15 and A16 to gnd. If the meter reads anything but 0-0.5 Ohm's, repair the black wires at A15 and A16 to gnd.
3 Inoperative cluster
Replace the cluster
If this doesn't help, check out the forum at astrosafari.com
I think the guys there are acting more alive than on here
Respectfully yours
D A Oestlund
Bodoe, Norway
PS! If you send me your email address, I can mail you a copy of the Circuit Diagram for this specific area.
Thank you so much for your informative response to my instrument panel problem. My husband plans on checking out your suggestions this weekend.
Yes, I would like a copy of the Circuit Diagram. Please send it to susieq54n@hotmail.com at your earliest convenience.
Once again, Thank you
Very Truly Yours,
Susan Williams
I am considering taking it to a garage to see if they can fix any of these, as the window problem seems to be getting worse, but from reading the archives it looks like this might be a waste of time. Several people say it cost a lot of money and the problems persisted.
I'm a pretty handy person, though I stopped working on my cars when the engines began to get too complex for me (about 1992).
Does anyone have any opinions about whether I should try and fix these issues on my own, or if it's worth taking the car to a professional?
Penny
For anyone who ends up on this site searching for info about their safari electrical problems, read on. I took the van to the garage who assured me it would probably be the motor or the circuit breaker. It isn't either. The motor doesn't get power when it warms up and hence doesn't work. This is pretty much what I told them.
They have now had the van for 24 hours and I need it by the end of the day whatever. They may or may not have found the problem by then..
So the conclusion - live with the problem, it's a GM thing (as you can tell from all the other posts on this issue). Learn to live without opening windows (or a/c or fans). Garages don't know how to fix it and will charge huge labour costs to tell you what you already told them.
Penny
PS I'm also going to stop using my electronic locking system and lock all doors by hand with the key to make sure. If you read the posts on that you'll see that these are also faulty.
Susan
I heard there are two, and I can't find one.
This is 2000 GMC Safari
dlm1954
Pulling back on the lever does not produce the click and the switching off of the high beams. No amount of pulling, pushing or twisting will make the high beams switch over.
The wipers work, the turn signals work... just not the high beams.
What do I need to do to replace this? Remove the steering wheel? How hard is this? Is it a do-it-yourself thing or something best left to the dealer?
There are several possibilities causing these problems. There are all electrical in nature, so feel free to ask questions if unsure of something I have said.
1. Are you sure of the quality of the fuel pumps you are purchasing?
2. Are you using the cheapest fuel available where you drive? Do you keep the fuel tank at least 1/4 full?
3. It is possible for either fuel filter to restrict the delivered fuel, either starving the pump, and overheating it, or the pump could be trying to overcome a restriction, causing an increase in current draw.
4. Was thge fuel pump relay replaced at the time of the pump replacement, every time? A damaged pump can damage the relay, causing subsequent pump failures. ray
Most of the time, the computer part number is on the computer itself. If you describe the issues you are experiencing, I can help you solve them. Ray
Normally, the fuse box is fed by what is described as a fusible link. This link appears as a large wire, red in color, and burns through in the event of a short. These links are typically connected to either the starter, or directly to the battery, and cab be checked by gently pulling on them. If the insulation stretches, the wire is burned, and it can be reconnected using a yellow butt connector. Do not bypass the link, as it is the circuit's only protection, and if bypassed, can lead to a nasty fire. Ray.
dlm1
dlm1
QUESTION: HOW CAN I TEST THE FUEL PUMP WITHOUT TAKING THE TANK DOWN? COULD THE RELAY BE THE PROBLEM OR A FUSE AND WHERE ARE THEY LOCATED? I DISCONNECTED THE GAS LINE ON THE TANK SIDE AND SPUN THE STARTER AWILE BUT NO GAS CAME OUT. HELP!
THANKS, BOB IN RALEIGH,NC
The rear pump was working. Tested it the same. Read 6 volts at the leads. Now it doesn't work after putting it together.
I tried priming the lines.
I can't find any fuses that are bad.
What am I missing?