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Chevy Colorado and GMC Canyon Brake Questions

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  • My rear brakes will not astay adjusted. The master cylinder was replaced without any improvement. No one can give me the procedure for adjusting them. The dealer doesn't know but says it's the parking brake does it, but on my Z71 it doesn't last. The standard backing up also only lasts a short time. Any clues will be helpful.
  • jnealjneal Posts: 247
    What year is the vehicle?
    Not sure why the dealer replaced the master cylinder, that has nothing whatsoever to do with rear brake adjustment. Perhaps it's time to try a different dealer.

    I think most vehicles now use the parking brake as rear brake adjustment, however, if you don't use the parking brake all the time then they will get out of adjustment from wear. If the parking brake is not effectively adjusting the brakes then it may need servicing/adjustment.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    I agree with the previous post, its time to find a new shop. A dealership that can't figure out how to adjust brakes is blowing smoke. I don't understand why they changed out the master cylinder, unless it was leaking. Even if that was the case it doesn't have anything to do with rear brake adjusters backing off. What are the symtoms that make you feel its a problem with the adjuster backing off? Now days with disk brakes in front and drums in the back, most of the braking energy comes from the front. Some autos in the past with rear drum brakes used the parking brake to adjust the rear brakes by a pumping action on the parking brake handle. :)
  • When the temperature gets to 10 degrees F or lower the parking brake on my '05 Colorado freezes. Even when I haven't applied the brake the night before. First time I took it to the dealer they cleaned and adjusted the shoes. Next cold snap I had the same problem. Dealer removed plug from backing plate "to assist in venting". Those occurences were at 16K and 19K miles. I now have 38K (just beyond warranty of course) and problem is back big time. I'm trying to get it back to dealer when weather is cold enough but my schedule adn the weather's aren't meshing.

    Anybody else in the north country having this problem? I'm in western Pennsylvania. It's a manual trans so I need to use the park brake from time to time. I carry a brick in the cab to use as a wheel chock. I never expected to have to resort to measures such as this on a relatively new vehicle.
  • I just bought an 05 Colorado 4x4 Crew with the auto tran and have had the same issue. I live in British Columbia and winter is here so temps are below freezing. I thought it initially because I washed it then it got cold but it happens quite often. Did you resolve your issue?
  • The emergency brake spring on my 04 colorado broke and caused the parking brake cable to snap. When I went to the Chevy dealer to get a new spring, they told me that it was not on the parts list. Talked to engineers at GM coroporate and they did not show a spring on that truck for the parking break. Mitchell's shows the spring on their parts list. I know what was taken off my truck and there has got to be a replacement somewhere. Anyone else having this issue? Any suggestions?
  • Yep same problem. There is a fix for it now, my vehicle just got fixed today. Something about changing adjusters in rear, etc. Said the brakes would absorb moisture.

    The problems I now have. In cold it is difficult to downshift (manual) into 1st or 2nd gear until I'm almost completely stopped. Chevy said this is normal. Also difficult to shift into reverse some time to time. Chevy has a bulletin on this (TSB 611), but said it is normal. Anyone else with these problems?

    I'm in the process of Chevy buying it back (about 23,000 miles on it). If interested, I'll let you know how it went. Also may just do the lemon law (these problems meet Pennsylvania's criteria).
  • Forgot to mention, I have a 2005 Colorado.
  • gmbluesgmblues Posts: 7
    I have a 2005 Colorado with about 50k on it. Started having a brake sticking problem and found the right side rotor rusted, pads glazed with rust etc. As a temporary fix I cleaned it all up so it work right for a while until I can replace the rotor.

    Does anyone know if GM had any kind of recall on these things? Rotors should be rusting out on a three year old truck....

    Thx
  • rukus2rukus2 Posts: 13
    I have a 2006 bought in August of '06. Back Brakes ahve went out already. worn as far as you can. WOW
    At the same time Front brakes/rotors had heat cracks in them. Pads had 1/2 life still in them. Swappe dout pads and rotors. 15K miles later I get back sqweek from rear when I let off of the peddle and the front sqweel. I get more brake dust on the front then you coudl imagine. It has now ruined the rims. ( I wash once a week) I love that I paid extra for the Extream rims!
    I have owned the s-10 5 times and now this truck. I have also owned my '94 jeep with lift kit and 35 on it and the brakes are 1000 times better.
    This has to be the worst brake set up I have ever used. Week feel, long stopping distance.
    Has anyone fixed these? :mad:
  • puregreenpuregreen Posts: 24
    I just replaced my front pads and rotors at 50000 with duralst ceramics from auto zone and have had no problem yet alot less dust to.
  • mjones7mjones7 Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem. I was just told that my back breaks need to be replaced and with only 28,000 (mostly highway) miles on the vehicle. I have also had some trouble with the emergency brake sticking.
    I think that 28,000 miles is way too soon to have breaks going bad.
  • rukus2rukus2 Posts: 13
    I have swapped the rear out 3 time and I now have 78K on the truck. I have owned the truck in Aug. of '06. All my miles are highway. (as you can tell by high miles) I have spoken tot he dealership Srvc. Dept. and he said that they get complaints all the time. He said he has never seen anything like it. He suggest I NOT use any GM parts and upgrade to slotted rotors and Brembo Cals. He said this will add more stopping power tot he front to try and ofset the rear wearing so much. The fornt brakes are very small/weak for the truck. (crew cab) The front heat up and fade way to quick because they can not take the weight.
    some have also suggest to remove the e brake. (I have auto trans) not sure I want to do this. I have never used it to date... but...
    Any suggestions on upgrade for rear?
  • my4x4my4x4 Posts: 1
    I bought an 06 Canyon Crew Cab 4X4 in March of 07, brand new from my local GMC dealer in Saint Charles IL. Since 1030 miles I have been to the dealer 10 times for the front brakes. This truck is rated to pull 4000 pounds. Well let me tell you... My boat weighs maybe 1100 lbs. At first when I pulled it I thought It was going to be a happy good long thing. After one month & 1000 miles, I was not pulling the boat for the first time till June. I could bore you with all the visits but I wont. I now have 25000 miles on my truck. Up to this time I have pulled my boat maybe 8-10 times. Your thinking, "wow". During the winter you cant go boating in Chicago. I was at the dealer three times for this condition form the middle of Sep. to March of 08. From all the visits to the dealer to find out what the problem was. The dealer replaced pads, turned rotors, replaced drums, turned drums, replace pads, (on and on it went). Finally a "SPECIALIST" in June of 08 paid a visit. He determined no more warranty on the brakes. Why? I have a factory hitch installed on my truck. Therefore all brake warranty is voided. I dont think so!! Now the BBB is involved and my Attorney. GMC now will deal with them and will probobly own this truck one more time. Let them use it in there design center for the brainiacs who dont know how to design a braking system.
  • rukus2rukus2 Posts: 13
    So I was at the dealer again... broke the internal mechanics on the tial gate latch. (how??? because 1/2 of it is plastic) so I bought a new one and the new one is all metal. This tells me that Gm figured they'd messed the original design right? Not covered under warrantee thogh becuase it is a wear and tear item. BS!!!
    So I got to talking to them about the barkes... the parts gus says, "ya, I sell more of these pads and rotors then anything it seems. they must wear quick." then the Shop manager that was behind him pulls him to the side. Says somehting and then walsk away. I bet GM know the screwed the pooch on this one! :sick:
  • jpfjpf Posts: 496
    I suggest you stop by an independent brake shop for advice. They may be aware of better quality after market parts. It seems that the original OEM parts just don't do the trick. Good luck.
  • I bought my 06 chevy colorado brand new in august of 2006. I deliver mail and thought that this would hold up better. I have deliver mail for 18 years now and never had this many brake problems. This is the worst vehicle I bought. I wish there was something I could do. I just keep getting farther in debt. I put my first back brakes on at 8,000 miles replace the drum and shoes The dealership did pay for the cost because they told me the adjuster had malfunction because I back up to much. Then the front and back brakes went out at about 15,000 miles. After the third set of brakes the dealership told me to go to midas they could do lifetime brakes. I did go to a private repair shop that is great. They have tried different things to get me more miles on my brakes. But he's really getting tired of fixing my truck too. I'm on set number 10 for back brakes and about 6 for front brakes and I have about 58,000 miles right now. The brakes aren't the only problems I had with this truck I took it back twice to have the air bag control fix the light would blink that air bag malfunction. The handle on the tailgate broke at 36,025 miles pass the warranty but fell in my extended warranty so for 200 dollars I could have it fix. That's my deductable. The taillights and the headlights burn out all the time I have one or another out all the time. I couldn't keep the foglights from buring out so I quit replacing them to expensive. Any suggestions?
  • jpfjpf Posts: 496
    Trade it in for a Tacoma or Ranger. These are more reliable trucks. Good luck.
  • rukus2rukus2 Posts: 13
    To trade for another truck is of no help.
  • rukus2rukus2 Posts: 13
    YEP! That is my point. Brakes suck! My tail gate latch also broke. Fog lamps burn out all the time. then they last time I replaced it the wire harness broke. $187 please. Windshield wiper motor gone. Don't even get me started on tail lights!!! This truck is a piece of crap. I have bough a chevy truck every 2-3 years since 1994. I will never by another one! Toyota here I come. thanks Gm for making another life long American buyer leave. I will say though... i did enjoy the review I just wrote on the new Colorado. Hope sales drop even more jerks
    (I wish I could use other 4 letter works but try'n to keep it PG 13)
  • poncho167poncho167 Posts: 1,178
    Why jump on the Japanese bandwagon. Why not continue supporting American companies with either a Dodge Dakota or Ford Ranger or just buy a GMC Sierra.
  • rukus2rukus2 Posts: 13
    1st, let's be honest... nothing is made American. Open your hood. Dodge has the worst trans in the market. Ford... the F150 is a great truck.. but I cannot afford the MPG. I have never liked the Ranger. My Father had had nothing but issues with the 2 he had. I need a mid size... or at least a mid size MPG. I need a truck that will run for 200K+ miles. The Chevy was a staple in the garge... WAS. it kills me to know I will no longer buying "American" but we can't get our act together. now look at the evidence they are giving us in the way of price abuse! They are offering over $12K in rebates! Are you kidding me?!?!? What about the guy that bought his last year? His resale value dropped well over 30%! Not that you buy a truck as an investment but come on!
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Posts: 1,739
    The 30% drop in price isn't just for american trucks, it is affecting any company. No one can sell them for anywhere near sticker. My salsman told me I dumped my Colorado Crewcab 4x4 just in time as they can't even take them to auction anymore as no one will even bid on a truck/suv. I love my HHR and it does almost anything the Colorado did. Over the 4 years i owned it I hauled a 1/2 yard of dirt in it once, anything else it carried I can get in the HHR plus I get 24.5 in town and at 60 without air I got 36.5 by babying it.
  • rukus2rukus2 Posts: 13
    That is my point. They have so much mark up in these things that they can still sell cars/trucks and take $12 hits on them and still turn a profit! I know the country does not want gas guzzlers and that is why the price dropped. My point is they were WAY over priced in the first place. I am ok with them making a buck, and if someone will pay it (as I did) then gret for them. But they need to start making the same quality as the others and they woudl sell more. I miss the S-10! :(
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Posts: 1,739
    No the problem is they have to have this kind of markup as most companies sell the little cars at a loss. This used to be to get the young buyer in say a Ford and then they get brand loyality and continue buying Fords through out their lives. This still holds true to a point but the big problem now is there is so many different kinds of vehicles on the market that no manufacturer will ever get where GM used to be, with 56% of the market. So they have laid off, early outs, retirements etc. Of course that costs money. You can't (I hope you can't) expect these companies to not give a person a pension after he/she has spent a life time working for them. The foregn companies don't have that problem yet but Toyota is getting close with their first American factory and how are they handling it? They are harassing the older workers till they get fired or can't take it anymore and quit. At least the American Car Companies are doing the right thing. Even with all the extra overhead the American trucks aren't anymore money than the foreign trucks and the money stays here instead of the lions share going back to Japan to pay for their schools, highways, buildings, nice homes that we are slowly losing.
  • rukus2rukus2 Posts: 13
    I appreciate your view. It was one I had as well. Until I noticed that the forien cars are made ALOT better, shipped here and then sold for the same tag as the American ones. Now I know the cost of labor is lower there but come on! Also, we import how much as apposed to how much do we export? How many "American" car companies are actually American owned in whole? How much of your Ford/Chevy do you think is actually made in America? Seriously??? Assembled yes... parts made? Nope!
    Now back to the Colorado and bad brakes... now the E Brake is seizing!!! This month the truck is 2 years old! Oh, and of course the back brakes have 20% pad left! AGAIN! per shop, no the pads are not wearing out becuase of the E Brake issue. This is a new issue. :mad:
  • poncho167poncho167 Posts: 1,178
    First off Toyota's Tundra was the first to start the big rebates going back to last year with their slow selling truck. It is not meeting expectations in quality or sales. How recalls did it have in its first year. Lets see I seem to recall the crankshaft issue, tailgate welds, and something else that is escaping me. It's another light duty Toyota truck with a cartoonish interior and a weak frame design.

    To say that American brand companies quality is not comparable leaves me to believe that you don't follow automotive news very much. They have been comparable for 10-years or more now. No brand has a full line of best in class cars. GM has several model lines with what's considered best in class but like other auto makers there are some excellent cars and there are some average cars across the board. No one makes a bad car anymore and there hasn't been one for years from any company that I know of.

    Toyota's domestic content here in the U.S. is only about 50% overall, while GM as a whole is over 70%. Because of Toyota's outsourcing of parts from Japan, China, etc., that forced the domestic automakers to outsource to to stay in business. In doing this thousands of small companies who produce parts, mostly in Detroit, were forced out of business with tens of thousands of people losing jobs.

    Toyota is known for picking states with no unions and for hiring part-time workers to avoid paying benefits. Without unions and pensions to worry about they have a huge bottom line and as mentioned their money is invested back in Japan institutions not here other than building assembly plants and reaping the benefits of a weak dollar when converting the yen. It's not a good picture with what these Japanese companies are doing. Sure they forced the American companies to build their cars/truck with better fit and finish, but they also forced them to abandon local resources to stay in business.

    I don't know of a car/truck from any brand that can't go 200,000 miles if maintained. This is another false perception. Only a small percentage of people keep a car for 100,000 miles anyways. Who wants a 200,000 mile car/truck? People still change vehicles every 3-5 years on average. I am happy with my rusted but reliable 1992 S10.
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Posts: 1,739
    Wow that is the best post I have seen in a very long time. Well thought out and well said. Good job.
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    This is Colorado/Canyon Brake Questions, guys. Plenty of other discussions to discuss Ford, Toyota, and sales.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • rukus2rukus2 Posts: 13
    Poncho, Great post.

    Also, yes this started as a brake issue. Poncho, you own a 1992 S-10. As I stated I loved the truck and has made me buy a Chevy truck every 2-3 years since my first truck. This Colorado has the worst fit and finish of all of them. The lack of help from GM has pushed me over the limit. I end up with about 200,000 miles by the end of my 3rd year with the truck. My 94, 97, 99, 03 trucks all made it well past 100,000 before I had the issues I have with this truck. These started around 38K. The brakes being the biggest issue.

    As for Toyota recalls... As you mention, first model year. Enough said I think.

    I feel (opinion) that the American trucks have gone down hill in light of trying to make more luxury features instead of a true truck. The American makers always had the markets locked as far as trucks go. Not so much now.
    That being said, I think the Silverado is still the best on the market. I just wish the mid size trucks got the same attention they used to or GM stood behind the issues

    So... back to the question... Is there a better set up front and rear? Is there a more heavy duty pad for the rear? Should I use slotted/drilled rotors? Do I change out calipers? What pads are you using up front?

    Recap of my issue:
    Light pedal, rear brakes last about 20K, front fad and I do not get much stopping power. (just added) E Brake issues. Yet to figure out isuue. Something with the self adjuster.

    Thanks...
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Posts: 1,739
    I wonder what I did wrong. I had over 33000 miles on my CrewCab 4x4 when I sold it and over 10000 miles of towing it behind my motorhome. It also had its own braking system so I really had over 44000 miles on it. A number of times I could feel it engage more than what I pushed on my motorhome brakes so it was slightly draging down the motorhome. Motorhome is 38 feet long and weighs close to 21000 lbs. I must have gotten some bad brakes to last that long. :shades:
  • we have a 2008 gmc canyon crew cab with the offroad suspension, but not the 4x4 gearing the brakes are noisy and squel almost every time my wife brakes , the truck has only 18k and we are not hard on the brakes. the dealer did look at them and put on something called quiet stop or something like that but they still squel.Anyone else have this problem?
  • Consider yourself lucky. My squeal started at 6000kms and I have had it in twice.

    my 08 crew is 4x4 and my calipers had the bushings beat out of them at 8000k's....because they wouldn't fix the rotors that pulsed since the day I drove it off the lot. They finally put it on a brake lathe....changed my pins, bushing and calipsers....put the stop squeal on again....all is well with everything else...except the squeel is back....now at 11000ks...

    The rear brake grab is known and its actually on of the TSB's for the Canyon
  • Could any one please advise if the front brake rotors are pressed on to the bearings on the canyons.I am coming due for a brake job and I hear horror stories of intensive and costly brake jobs on the Canyons.I would attempt to change the rotors but to use a hydraulic press is another bowl of wax.Please Comment.Thanks
  • AlennxAlennx Posts: 20
    Long time coming but here's an answer anyway...

    Rotors rust. They rust if you don't use your truck for a week. They are make of cheap [non-permissible content removed] steel and they rust. I used to make them in a drop-steel foundry.

    If you are driving and the rotors have rust on the face, your brakes are not applying enough pressure to the rotors.

    Under normal conditions, one or two uses of the brakes will completely clean the face of the rotor (unless you left it at the beach for a year).

    Daily use rotors are cleaned by use and the build up of crap goes into the brake dust.

    Consider checking your braking system if you have rust on your rotors during normal usage.
  • This might be a little late for your situation, however I'll try to offer some help...I recently purchased a "Haynes Repair Manual" for Colorado/Canyons. There are several pictures of the brake system in the book.

    The one picture shows a 2WD front end, and even though the text mentions rotor removal in the same breath as hub removal, the picture shows a couple of "Tinnerman nuts" holding the rotors in place. I would then assume that if you remove the nuts, the rotors should come off.

    I have a 4WD Canyon, and although I'm not positive how the rotors are held on, there are what appear to be bolts located betwen each lug stud. I would be tempted to conclude that these bolts hold the rotors in place. Since my rotors are in good shape, however, I'm not tempted at this point to see if these are indeed rotor retaining bolts.
  • Good points!

    I currently have 26,000 miles on my '05 Canyon 4x4. This vehicle is primarily used as my "winter driver" so if anybody should have problems, I should. Road salt does "simply wonderful things" to a vehicle, and my Canyon see plenty of it!

    I took the front pads out this past fall, and yes, the tips of the pad's backing plates had corroded, and were not sliding freely in the calipers. I simply took a file, and smoothed down the tabs, ensuring that they moved freely in the calipers. I also removed the "slider pins", and cleaned and re-greased them.

    In the rear, every year I remove the drums, spray the backing plates and springs with Simple Green, to remove any accumulated road salt, rinse everything, and then blow out the water with a leaf blower. Re-install the drums, and I'm good for another year.

    I don't "baby" this truck, but I don't beat on it either. As I said, I have 26,000 miles on this truck right now, and the shoes/pads look like they'll go another 30-40,000 miles without any problem.
  • I have an 05 with 80K miles. My parking brake will not release unless I go under the truck and do it manually. Has anyone had this problem before? And, how might I go about fixing it? I have replace the brakes but no luck.

    Thanks
  • Peel back the rubber boots on the end of the cables, and spray some lubricant in the ends of the e-brake cables. Then work the cables in and out to work in the lube. Also, spray the foot mechanism in the cab.

    If that doesn't work, pull the drums back off and make sure the e-brake linkage is also able to move freely, without any binding.
  • tgiltgil Posts: 1
    Any resolution on your brake problems w/ the Canyon? I'm having same issues on the Colorado I have owned since '06 and tired of ALL OF IT!
  • rukus2rukus2 Posts: 13
    Yes and No… cable squeak is gone after lubing the crap out of it. Bad design. No protection from the elements. I expect this to fail on most vehicles without anyone knowing until it is too late!

    As for the braking power or lack thereof… I have not done the fix yet but they did change the whole braking system on the truck. The new equipment fits the old models. “they say” they put in a more powerful master cylinder and better calipers. We will see. It will be time for me to change out the fronts again in about 2 months so I am just upgrading to Baer calipers and rotors in the front. I am going to buy the new master cylinder from GM.
    They have done thing for the rear at all form what I can see though.

    Bad Bad Bad design!!!
    BUT… I will say I do have 140K on the truck and bought it in 8/06 with no engine issues. My check engine light did come on around 110K but that was caused by a old gas cap letting air in the tank… changed out gas cap and good to go… Also the air flow control switch (the one that indicated deforst, feet/face ect) failed as well. Time to replace that now.
  • I know this is an old post, but did you ever have any luck with a final resolution to the brake problems. '06 Colorado...same problems.
    Thx
    Tony
  • The good news is the rotors are not pressed on. I just did the front brakes on my son's Colorado yesterday & had no idea what I was in for, but got through it. What you're going to find after removing the wheel is 5 or 6 bolts through the face of the hub that attach the rotor to the hub. The bad news is the rotor is mounted behind the hub. This means you need to remove the hub in order to resurface or replace the rotor. Removing the bolts on the face of the hub as well as the caliper bracket bolts will probaby require an impact wrench (I have an inexpensive electric one that barely did the trick). After removing the face bolts & caliper bracket you need to remove the 4 bolts on the back of the steering knuckle that secure the hub. This would be much easier if GM hadn't put 2 of them right next to a verticle link & the ball joint bump in the lower control arm. You'll also need to trace the speed sensor wire from the back of the hub up to the connector located inside the wheel well (it's part of the hub assy & cannot be removed from the hub, so don't think you're simply going to pry it off, that would be way too simple). You have to remove all the clips & brackets that secure the wire to the upper control arm & remove the connector bracket from the inside of the wheel well in order to disconnect it. Once all this is done you can pull the hub, rotor, backing plate away while feeding the wire & all the stuff attached to it through the hole in the mount. Assembly is the exact opposite, besure to use lock-tight when putting it all back together because tightening a couple of the bolts is a little sketchy.

    I had to talk to my mechanic to get the lowdown the speed sensor wire & he told me they typically charge 3 hours for that job (a normal brake reline is only 1 hour). I wouldn't attempt this without an impact wrench because you're probably not going to be able to remove all the bolts that have to be removed without one. But if you have one, it's really not all that difficult & time well spent for the amount of $$$ you save.
  • joeg55joeg55 Posts: 1
    I'll echo what scottmc says, this is a bit of a tough job! I didn't have an impact wrench but managed with a 1/2 inch drive ratchet and sockets. Once I got all the nuts and bolts off the biggest problem was beating the hub apart from the rest of the mount. I think the lock-tite the factory used was made out of JBweld or something equally difficult to remove! Once that was done though the job is fairly easy to finish. Only took me 4 hours to do one wheel but most of that was finding the right hammer to beat the thing into submission! Make sure you can support the hub when ti comes free of the vehicle, it is pretty heavy in your lap!
  • 08 Colorado Crew 4x4
    First year and...
    rear brakes wore completely out before mileage hit 15k.
    Dealer replaced shoes and drums under tsb/warranty. Said problem was a zip tie still on e-brake cable / original drums were not turned.

    Now 15k later and the rear brakes are gone completely.
    dealer Charged me $75 for diagnosis fee then says brakes are not covered because it is normal wear and tear. Did not give me the cause of the problem.

    - I keep thinking of some type of hydrolic pressure actuation ?

    - So I have personally purchased "premium" shoes and drums and am having an independent general mechanic doing the work.
  • Good Luck! I have and 06 Colorado Crew 4x4 I bought brand new in 06. My first set of rear brakes went out at 8000 miles they told me that something had stuck and the brakes were always on. They replace the drums and shoes. They lasted another 10,000 miles and were out again. This time they told me I back up to much and the brakes are always adjusting when you back up and they wouldn't cover them. I started going to a private mechanic he tells me that the way they design the back brakes on these trucks are a joke the shoes are so thin but there is not a enough room to put in thicker shoes. They have got them to last for between 15,000 and 20,000 but I do use my truck to deliver mail too.
  • sean91sean91 Posts: 10
    Just received a July 2010 recall notice on my 2006 Canyon from GM for Safety Recall 09049 which involves "a brake lamp switch that may not work as designed due to contamination in the switch." Contact the dealer on or after August 26 for free repair.
  • sean91sean91 Posts: 10
    Posting to track items.
  • My '05 Canyon is squeaking as I roll at 35 MPG or less until I put my foot on the brakes. Any ideas as to why? Wife had the brakes changed I believe while I was deployed. She can't remember exactly what was doen and didn't keep the record of the work.
  • I've read through everyone's comments and appreciate the education it has brought me. I have mixed feelings on the brake system on my 05 colorado 2wd. I have had the e brake cables repalced as a result of them sticking. My mechanic thinks it was caused at the area where the cable takes a sharp corner from under the chasis and up through the firewall where the pedal is. The friction in this area frays the cable and eventually it gets caught up within the protective sleave.

    Now for the front brakes. My colorado has 71k on it. I decided to change the front disk brakes, and I have to say they were the easiest set of pads I've ever replaced. Taking the tires off was the hard part. Had it done in about an hour and a half.

    I think it may be time to change the rear brakes, but that is where it may be beyond my capabilities to do. I'd like to do them myself to save the $$ but I'm worried about what I'll encounter. plus I have never changed drum shoes before.

    Any advice would help. Can a novice do this job?
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