Ford F-Series Braking Questions
how the hell do stop the brake dust from going all over the truck the deal says to get brake sheild and keep an eye on it a nd the they will buffit out is stinks it is a white truck any salutions
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Are you sure it is brake dust getting on the body instead of just dirt or road tar? White will show anything that gets on it.....
Brake dust should just wash off the paint..don't know why the dealer said they would buff it unless it is indeed something else.
If so, it could be Railroad Train Rail Dust. The train's steel wheels grind the rails ever so slightly and the resultant metallic dust gets deposited on the truck during shipping. It was on my F350 before I took delivery. Little rust spots all over the sides when you looked at it closely. :mad: :mad: I refused the truck until dealer rubbed out the finish with a Clay Bar to remove the brake dust, and then polished and waxed it. Once the initial rail dust was removed I haven't seen any other rusting flecks in my finish..
We have tried bleeding the brakes several time. Disconnected the battery to see if it was a computer problem, and looked for any possible leaks in the brake line. Nothing worked. Help Please
Mark.
My 2005 F 150 with 22,000 miles had a constant squeel in the brakes. The dealer turned the rotors and the pads are about 80% of the new ones. The squeeling in the brakes has returned but not as bad as before. Any suggestions?
Reb
While I've only got about 60K miles on it, I've just had the rotors replaced, after haveing them turned twice.
Anyone have any advice?
Thanks. :mad:
The bad sensor call is likely correct. If so, you don't have ABS. You DO have normal braking (probably why the mechanic says "no safety issue") You have to decide how badly you want ABS.
While I've only got about 60K miles on it, I've just had the rotors replaced, after haveing them turned twice.
Not common for any truck I've heard of. Were the pads gone? That said, I don't know (1) driving habits (2) operating conditions or (3) what kind of loads you're carrying. Could be a combination of all. Non-negative Fact: Some people wear out brakes (and vehicles) faster than others.
I know that a slight hiss when pressing brake is normal and has to do with something called a brake assist.
Prior to my last brake job at the Ford dealer, the hiss was short in duration, and when depressing the brake pedal, the normal travel distance before braking was approximately 2".
After last brake job at the dealer (master cyclinder, calipers, drums/discs resurface, and adjust rea brake regulators), the hiss sound was much longer in duration, and the pedal travel increased to 4 1/2" (i.e. nearly to the floor starting from 6"). Ford has maintained nothing wrong. Wrong - it has been downright scary to have to press the brake pedal that far. (They system has been bled numerous times with no change - even immediately after bleeding.)
I have since replace the MC with a MC with a larger (bore?). The brake pedal travel is now 3" (getting closer to the way it was before).
Does anyone know 1) what would cause a longer hissing sound, and 2) is this related to a longer brake pedal travel distance?
Thanks guys.
Female needs help !!
The longer hissing sound is caused by the hydralic assist to have to either work harder or longer to push on the Master cylinder to pressurise the brake system.
Lets assume for the moment that there is no new problem with the assist part of the system. You didn't have this problem until the brakes were done. Right? This symptom is telling me that there is a lack of restriction in the hydrallic brake lines somewhere, such as ; incorrect brake calipers or incorrect rear wheel cylinders(for regular power brakes lets say) or in some cases there is an ajustment rod with a backwards threaded bolt coming out of the assist,(not all models). This adjustment is critical for proper braking. Very unlikly this rod if your truck has it is causing this symptom. If I had to take a guess without inspecting the brakes on this vehicle, my money is on incorrect calipers or wheel cylinders. Here is my explanation that would have to be researched and inspected on your truck. Sometimes calipers and wheel cylinders for a regular power brake system and a hydralic assist look the same, but the chambers or cavities inside them are different sizes. This means they require different amounts of hydralic pressure from the master cylinder. You need a very experienced technician to check this for you. And yes, the Dealer does make mistakes. I fix one of their screw ups at least once a month. Good luck!
Test $26 Low
Test $2a Low
Test $2b Low
Test $56 High
This on a Ford E-150, 4.2
I tried to find what monitor tests check, but I cannot decifer these codes.
Can someone point me in the right dirrection.
I have a rough running engine that is driving me nuts. All of the OBD codes say ok.
2005 Ford F150 (nov purchase date)
one owner only
it has 25000 kms
Took it to the ford dealership to have the brakes done. (sticking- ended up being rust)
HOWEVER... because of the low mileage, they said that we misused the vehicle by letting it "sit". So the dealership said the warranty was void and we paid the repair on a credit card, they would not release the vehicle to us otherwise. This truck is driven at least twice a week (except for a one month period when Dad was in hospital). This truck has never been off road or on a gravel road for that matter. the brakes should not have rust.
I've read and re-read the warranty manual. nowhere is it mentioned that lack of use equals missuse.... there are no aftermarket parts, and we follow the maintenance schedule.
I suspect the dealership didn't even call ford warranty.
How do i get them to honor the warranty... (I wanted to call ford warranty, but they apparently only "talk shop" with dealers, not owners...)
Thanks,
Chuck
Last night the ABS light went on and a humming started from under the hood. Even with the engine off, the humming continued.
I found out today my ABS sensor was shorted. The mechanic took out a fuse so my battery wouldn't die (I disconnected the battery last night to avoid this). The ABS is not functional, but the brakes still work. There is little safety issue other than some tire slippage in wet conditions.
The part is coming in tomorrow. Rather pricey. $620 w/labor to fix the ABS.
The pulsating problem is resolved but I don't have a ABS system. Is this a sensor problem on that left front brake?
How hard is it to replace the brake sensor?
It seems the ABS module is attached below the Hydraulic Control Unit and very hard to get to. I am sure I have to move the HCU but it has a few hydraulic tubes connected to it and I can't remove those (cost for dealer to bleed the system) nor do I want to break one.
Does anybody know if things can be loosened up enough to get at the ABS module without damaging the HCU connections?
Thanks In Advance,
Pete
My problems got worse. A full description and my soluthon is at:
http://www.fordforum.com/forum/general-tech-11/brake-pedal-goes-floor-24307/
If the link does not survive the posting process, go to fordforum.com and search the forums for postings by petec (that's me).
http://www.fordforum.com/forum/general-tech-11/brake-pedal-goes-floor-24307/
If the link does not survive the posting process, go to fordforum.com and search the forums for postings by petec (that's me).
Pete