They are heavy too, but well made I believe. They offer more cold weather options than anyone else, including double pane windows all around. Our friend Brutus has one rated to -40 degrees. But he said the options added about 1000 pounds. If you search way back in this topic you can find his name and send him an e-mail.
I was near the RV store so dropped in and bought a new cover for the large escape hatch vent over the bed. There are two sizes, of course I chose the wrong one. It's 13 x 20" and is too small. Only one company makes those escape type vents so they gouge for the cover. The small one cost $70 and the entire new assembly was only $78. Yikes! I needed it a few years ago but when I saw it was $60ish then, I got out the glue. I'll post the correct size for my Lance in case anyone else needs one eventually.
13x20 doesn't sound very big, neither does 15x22 for that matter. I guess I'd fit but I'd probably be more likely to just bust a hole big enough to fit through, should the situation arise to need it. I think I've come close to busting out a roof by forgetting where I was and sitting up way too fast ;-)
Any suggestions for a good controller? I have a 2001 GMC Sierra that will be towing smaller one and two axle trailers under 6000 lbs. I'm leaning towards the DrawTite Activator III. Electronic controllers seem to be smoother and react a bit faster than pendulum type units. I'm also making an assumption that I don't need a pulse protector since my rear turn signals and four-ways are the amber type that are separate from my brake lights. Thanks.
If you have the towing package on your truck, it is already wired for everything you need, including electric brakes. It sounds like you already know all about the wiring but if not just ask. For controllers, you may want to try the Trailer Life site and see if they have any reviews.
Does anyone know the reasoning behind the xtreme not be able to be used for towing. I'm in the process of buying a jet ski (>1000lbs) and I know it would be more than capable. The problem is i'm stuck in a lease for the next 2 years, any suggestions?? thanks
Use it to tow the jet ski and don't worry about it. They probably lower the tow rating because the body is lowered and they don't want the hassle of problems on a vehicle that isn't marketed for that type of use. You'll know quickly if it has a problem with the jet ski.
I'm finally going to order a Hellwig anti sway bar for my 2000 K2500. How are they to install? Would a novice like me be able to do it or should I hire someone? I've got asll the tool but if I have to cut or drill into something I get a little hesitant.
I'm finally going to order a Hell wig anti sway bar for my 2000 K2500. How are they to install? Would a novice like me be able to do it or should I hire someone? I've got all the tools but if I have to cut or drill into something I get a little hesitant.
You can install the bar. There is no drilling, just attaching brackets and assembling the parts. You do need to be careful to get the right torque on the bolts, a torque wrench is the best way.
You can see some pictures of my installation on my web page. Hellwig has changed the bar and mounting system so don't worry about my whining.
Thanks, I was trying to come up with a BB vendor or a piece of equipment named a BB. Never thought of the net - old timers disease, I guess.
Has anyone spotted a place where RVs go when have been in accidents and are "totaled" - a used RV parts source. For instance, when my brother was riding in the Baja in a new rented Class C (seat belted in the dinette, fortunately) an oncoming truck forced the driver into a concrete encased culvert that projected to within inches of the right of way. My brother suddenly had a view through the floor to where the propane tanks and the right rear wheels had been. No fire. No serious injuries. Lots of trouble, for instance a wrecker had to be requested by a guy who hand-tapped out a telegraph message to the nearest garage. The insurance company tried to get out of paying for loss because the policy "didn't cover tires", etc. Eventually it was declared totaled and everyone came out OK but it took a good lawyer.
For a project I will be working on beginning next fall, I would like to find an equivalent wreck and get some of the surviving fixtures from it. Has anyone spotted one in New England or eastern U.S.? I'm not interested in those covered with mildew and with weed trees growing through the vents that are behind unpainted houses.
Hello, any recommendations on RV deep Cycle batteries for a Lance. I have been using the Interstate group 27. I have seen cheaper ones in Wal-mart and BJ's and have been tempted. Has anyone tried other brands with better results? I never plug in when I'm camping so I relie heavily on my RV battery. In fact I often bring more than one !!
I recommend the Optima deep cycle (yellow) battery. It's expensive at $145-180 but promises to last a long time and is well built. I run one of these under the hood and an Exide in the camper. I normally buy whatever Costco sells because they are about $45 and I haven't had an outright failure but did have trouble with a few not charging correctly after some years. I'm very happy with the reserve power I have now. What type of truck do you have?
I had a Line-X sprayed in my K 2500 and carry a lance 1010. I really like it. I haven't noticed the camper moving but I might consider a cheap rubber mat this summer for piece of mind. I've hauled quite a bit of "stuff" in the box and it's holding up really well. Slippery cargo will move on the Line-X so I use a rubber cord attached to the stationary cargo rings in the box One thing, when I would lower the camper in the box the friction from the liner pulled out the rubber bumpers from the camper. Mostly my fault I think as I had the camper too high and too much pressure forward. I would NEVER go back to the plastic liner or just the rubber mat.
I have a PERMATECH sprayin liner in my 2000 Silverado 2500. I carry a Lance 920 on it and it is holding up very well. Virtually nothing except light weight items will move.I believe the PERMATECH liner is more slip resistant than the LINE-X
I have an F350 CC LWB 4x4 with a 93 Lance 8000 10'9 camper. I did see the Optima on-line and it sounded good but the price seems too high. I bought an Exide from BJ's for about $45 also. I have had the same problem with charging on the Interstate batteries and they are $70 so I figured I might try the cheaper ones. I figured if it last a couple of seasons I'm doing good. That is all I really got out of the Interstate. I did notice the MCA were less but the reserve capacity was the same (160 minutes). I understand that is the important number. I'm thinking I might want to carry two, just in case !!! I just hope it doesn't go out at night when I'm all ready for bed (it has happen to me).
Carry two batteries? So I assume you only have the one battery in the camper. You should install a second one under the hood and wire them in parallel. I had a 89 F250 and managed to squeeze a second battery in the engine bay near the brake booster. The Chevy had a designated spot so adding one was easy in my current truck. I'm very happy with the lifetime with dual batteries, basically I run whatever I want and don't need to think about it.
Do any of you have a 2500 Dodge or Chevy. ex. cab 4x4? If so, what is the actual weight of the vehicle, and what kind of MPG do you get empty and loaded with a camper? Looking for gas models.
12-14 mpg empty combined, 9-11 with the camper. Chevy 2500 4wd 6.0 reg cab 4.10 auto. Some people get a little better with similar trucks, and Dodge is known to generally get worse than Chevy.
I need a 4 Wheel or similar used popup for a full size long bed truck. Can anyone help??? I've been taking the Lance off-road and it's just too much. I love it for normal camping/traveling and won't get rid of it but I also enjoy off-road trips which include camping out. The big camper is just too limiting for this environment.
We (Mike L & gang) recently spent a long weekend roaming around the Stanislaus National Forest. We didn't run into much 4x4 terrain so it wasn't really a problem but I'd like to find some more challenging areas which rules out the Lance.
Here's a picture of our rigs. If you want to see more of our trip, I posted some pics at
This is a current posting. There was a 4Wheel longbed advertised recently and we have a dealer in town. Although this one is a shortbed, keep checking. It's amazing how few papers have on-line classifieds...
"http://www.renoclassifieds.com/" 2. '98 northstar Pop Up Camper, shortbed, stove, sink, furnace, 3-way fridge, many option, just like new, $5900. Call 775-358-6747 The Reno Gazette-Journal Subclassification: Campers/Shells 5/27/2001
I have considered wiring the batteries in parallel but wasn't comfortable with the wiring. Plus I would have to run the cables between the engine compartment and the battery bay on the camper. I have an isolator separating the truck battery from the camper battery to avoid draining the truck battery. I have considered putting the extra battery under the kitchen sink and wiring in parallel there. I will say that when the camper battery goes out at night I don't like going out to swap it out in the dark !!
Plan to buy a Supercrew within a week & would really like some advice. We live in Atlanta & mostly will use the truck for family duty but would also like to tow a (non-5th wheel) older 26' hard sided travel trailer on short (less than 1000 mile) trips camping,hunting & mountain biking in the Blue Ridge mountains & east coast. Can't decide between the better looks and ruggedness of the 4X4 or the larger (300lbs)factory rated towing capacity (and $3000 lower sticker price) of the 4X2. I know I need the 5.4L engine, towing pkg & 3.55 limited slip diff either way. Does the 3"higher chassis height of the 4X4 adversely affect towing performance assuming I get the proper ball height with a drop hitch? Any help from anybody with experience would be greatly appreciated!!
Thanks for the ideas. I did find that Reno add. I've looked in the local paper and at the RV sales sites and have seen very few popups at all, and no 4Wheel campers. I wouldn't use it enough to justify buying new so I'll just keep an eye out. If anyone runs across one, post a message.
You would definitely need to connect the second battery to the camper side of the isolator. Swapping batteries is a pain anytime but I agree with you about doing it at night.
You shouldn't put it under the sink because batteries give off a nasty and potentially flammable gas. If you want it near the camper, a good place is in a plastic battery box in the bed of the truck in front of the wheel well. Then just run the wires into the battery box via a connector. Still involves some wiring though. Actually you could just run the wires through the battery compartment door only when you are in the campsite. That would be easy but it wouldn't charge while driving.
The truck will tow the trailer fine whether you get 4wd or 2wd. Don't base your decision on that.
If you don't think you'll use the 4wd then don't buy it. It costs more, weighs more, reduces mpg, and increases possible repair costs. On the other hand, I wouldn't be without it. But I like to go places where I need it, or MIGHT need it and it gives me peace of mind.
I doubt you will towing a 26' trailer in the off-road wilderness. Go for the 2wd with the limited slip rear end.
Thanks for the idea. A problem I have is when I'm out in the woods I feel the most important aspect is small exterior size like only 4Wheel has (I think). Then when I'm at home I get to thinking about the goodies a Sunlight or other brand has, like gray/black tanks and a toilet, and well it's only a few more inches wider and taller, right?
Problem is that those few inches can make big difference sometimes. So for now I'll stick with the 4Wheel idea and see what happens.
All but the smallest Sunlights are 84 inches wide. My catalogue lists one for mini trucks that is 78 inches wide. I think they stopped making the one that was 90 inches wide. Our 84 inch wide Sunlight is not as wide as the towing mirrors on our 2001 Dodge when they are in the "in" position. Of course, they swing away without breaking and the camper will break. I find that low trees that bend over the road/trail are the hardest to judge for clearance and sometimes have the copilot get out to guide me.
I agree, the low trees are the worst. Usually the hardest to deal with too, either cut a branch or go around. The side stuff just scratches a little, or a lot.
I did a quick run down part of the Ultimate Camper Web Site List and noted some sizes.
The Phoenix Sasquatch would be my choice of all of them. It is small enough but has a holding tank and toilet.
Mike, I know you had your Phoenix made smaller than standard to be the same as the 4Wheel. But they say it's only an inch taller to start. I suspect this doesn't include the vent as 4W does. Is that how much they shortened yours?
They made mine 80" wide, and took 3" out of the height. But, I'll bet it's no shorter than a 4Wheel camper - how could it be?. The over cab extension is within 1" of height of the 4Wheel camper.
I think the 4" narrower makes a big difference in the outside, but not too much inside. All the loss of width came out of the 'hallway' in the living space. And, I'm only 5'10" so the bed has plenty of width for us.
When I get home tonight, I'll measure the camper height (assuming this feeble old mind remembers) let you know what I come up with.
At any rate, if it was a question of 1-2", I think we could let all the air out of the airlifts and squeeze by.
Good point about the fumes and fluids. That is the last thing I need running through the camper. The wheel well is a much better idea. I think this year I will have to plan my battery changes to the day time. Last year the batteries I was using were smaller than the 27 group so when they went they went FAST. This year I need to get another 27 group as a backup. I am still trying different combos/batteries. I am learning lessons on batteries.
The ratings are down from payload to allow for driver/passenger/gas/water/food/clothes and the rest of the stuff we take along.
Otherwise people will load a camper that takes the entire payload and then fill it with the above stuff and wind up overloaded......'But the manual says I can put that size camper on it!!!'
Comments
Won't guarantee you won't have problems.
Mike L
You can see some pics of his camper at http://members.home.net/vofm
Erik
Thanks in advance Ronnie
Thanks in advance Ronnie
With my 1400lb popup camper, I didn't find the bar was needed on my K2500.
You must have a full size camper or heavy 5th wheel to need the Hellwig bar.
Mike L
Thanks for the info
Ronnie
You can see some pictures of my installation on my web page. Hellwig has changed the bar and mounting system so don't worry about my whining.
http://members.home.net/vofm/bar/bar.html
We used to use BB's to communicate before we had discussion groups like this one. Some folks use the terms interchangably.
Mike L
Has anyone spotted a place where RVs go when have been in accidents and are "totaled" - a used RV parts source. For instance, when my brother was riding in the Baja in a new rented Class C (seat belted in the dinette, fortunately) an oncoming truck forced the driver into a concrete encased culvert that projected to within inches of the right of way. My brother suddenly had a view through the floor to where the propane tanks and the right rear wheels had been. No fire. No serious injuries. Lots of trouble, for instance a wrecker had to be requested by a guy who hand-tapped out a telegraph message to the nearest garage. The insurance company tried to get out of paying for loss because the policy "didn't cover tires", etc. Eventually it was declared totaled and everyone came out OK but it took a good lawyer.
For a project I will be working on beginning next fall, I would like to find an equivalent wreck and get some of the surviving fixtures from it. Has anyone spotted one in New England or eastern U.S.?
I'm not interested in those covered with mildew and with weed trees growing through the vents that are behind unpainted houses.
Thanks for any ideas/help.
Thanks
Ronnie
We (Mike L & gang) recently spent a long weekend roaming around the Stanislaus National Forest. We didn't run into much 4x4 terrain so it wasn't really a problem but I'd like to find some more challenging areas which rules out the Lance.
Here's a picture of our rigs. If you want to see more of our trip, I posted some pics at
http://members.home.net/vofm/stanislaus/stan.htm
"http://www.renoclassifieds.com/"
2. '98 northstar Pop Up Camper, shortbed, stove, sink, furnace, 3-way fridge, many option, just like new, $5900. Call 775-358-6747
The Reno Gazette-Journal Subclassification: Campers/Shells 5/27/2001
You shouldn't put it under the sink because batteries give off a nasty and potentially flammable gas. If you want it near the camper, a good place is in a plastic battery box in the bed of the truck in front of the wheel well. Then just run the wires into the battery box via a connector. Still involves some wiring though. Actually you could just run the wires through the battery compartment door only when you are in the campsite. That would be easy but it wouldn't charge while driving.
If you don't think you'll use the 4wd then don't buy it. It costs more, weighs more, reduces mpg, and increases possible repair costs. On the other hand, I wouldn't be without it. But I like to go places where I need it, or MIGHT need it and it gives me peace of mind.
I doubt you will towing a 26' trailer in the off-road wilderness. Go for the 2wd with the limited slip rear end.
Jim
"Funny, I don't remember being absent minded...."
Problem is that those few inches can make big difference sometimes. So for now I'll stick with the 4Wheel idea and see what happens.
I did a quick run down part of the Ultimate Camper Web Site List and noted some sizes.
4Wheel......80" wide.....56" high incl. vent
Northstar...84"..........66"
SunLite.....84"..........67" incl. vent
Phoenix.....84"..........57"
Palomino....??...........64"
The Phoenix Sasquatch would be my choice of all of them. It is small enough but has a holding tank and toilet.
Mike, I know you had your Phoenix made smaller than standard to be the same as the 4Wheel. But they say it's only an inch taller to start. I suspect this doesn't include the vent as 4W does. Is that how much they shortened yours?
Thanks
I think the 4" narrower makes a big difference in the outside, but not too much inside. All the loss of width came out of the 'hallway' in the living space. And, I'm only 5'10" so the bed has plenty of width for us.
When I get home tonight, I'll measure the camper height (assuming this feeble old mind remembers) let you know what I come up with.
At any rate, if it was a question of 1-2", I think we could let all the air out of the airlifts and squeeze by.
Mike L
Really happy with performance about 18 months later....
Otherwise people will load a camper that takes the entire payload and then fill it with the above stuff and wind up overloaded......'But the manual says I can put that size camper on it!!!'
Mike L