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Volvo V70 Engine Issues
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Whats youe location.
I would say something is up and they must be seeing early failures. Of course, Volvo would never recall?
Any input or direction would be appreciated.
Cheers.
If the octane requirements are determined by the CR, the the non-turbo enigine has the highest octane requirement. (I understand that the effective compression ratio can be different from the nominal one depending on the valve timing, but I'm assuming this is not in effect here.
Page 84 of the manual states that, "Volvo engines are designed for optimum performance on unleaded premium gasoline with octane rating AKI 91. . . . The minimum octane requirement is AKI 87 (RON91)."
I believe the AKI octane number is what is given on the pumps. So Volvo is not rulling out the use of regular unleaded.
What I get from this is that these cars can be driven hard with AKI 91 fuel and probably the knock sensor would not detect any knocking which would initiate retardation of the timing. Even if you used AKI 87 and drove it hard the knock sensor should protect the engins from knock damage, but you might not get full horsepower or as high a mpg.
My dealer however, recommends premium which in the Dallas area is AKI 93 octane, which costs 20 cents a gallon more than AKI 87. AKI 91 is not sold here, but 89 is. Probably our V70 would run fine on 89 or even 87, but we use 93 to "be safe". The extra money is not worth the worry. The next trip I may mix 93 ande 89 to get 91 and see if the highway mpg is different. With 93 we get 30 to 31.5 mpg on the highway at 70 to 75 mph with the a/c on.
From Wikipedia:
"The Atkinson cycle engine is a type of Internal combustion engine invented by James Atkinson in 1882. The Atkinson cycle is designed to provide efficiency at the expense of power.
The Atkinson cycle allows the intake, compression, power, and exhaust strokes of the four-stroke cycle to occur in a single turn of the crankshaft. Owing to the linkage, the expansion ratio is greater than the compression ratio, leading to greater efficiency than with engines using the alternative Otto cycle.
The Atkinson cycle may also refer to a four stroke engine in which the intake valve is held open longer than normal to allow a reverse flow of intake air into the intake manifold. This reduces the effective compression ratio and, when combined with an increased stroke and/or reduced combustion chamber volume, allows the expansion ratio to exceed the compression ratio while retaining a normal compression pressure. This is desirable for improved fuel economy because the compression ratio in a spark ignition engine is limited by the octane rating of the fuel used. A high expansion ratio delivers a longer power stroke, allowing more expansion of the combustion gases and reducing the amount of heat wasted in the exhaust. This makes for a more efficient engine.
The disadvantage of the four-stroke Atkinson cycle engine versus the more common Otto cycle engine is reduced power density. Because a smaller portion of the intake stroke is devoted to compressing the intake air, an Atkinson cycle engine does not intake as much air as would a similarly-designed and sized Otto cycle engine.
Four stroke engines of this type with this same type of intake valve motion but with forced induction (supercharging) are known as Miller cycle engines.
Multiple production vehicles use Atkinson cycle engines:
Toyota Prius hybrid electric (front-wheel-drive)
Ford Escape hybrid electric (front- and four-wheel drive)
Toyota Highlander hybrid electric (front- and four-wheel drive)
Lexus RX400h hybrid electric (front- and four-wheel drive)
In all of these vehicles, the lower power level of the Atkinson cycle engine is compensated for through the use of electric motors in a hybrid electric drive train. These electric motors can be used independent of, or in combination with, the Atkinson cycle engine."
On the way home I stopped and then it wouldn't start. The shop paid for the tow back to their facility. They kept it some more and then announced that it was another module and charged $$ for that. I picked up the car and it started perfectly. I drove it around the block and back to the shop, where I shut it off. It wouldn't start. This time they found that wiggling the ground wire set from the battery while I was trying to start it made the starter go on, and they supposedly repaired a wire. That was a year ago and it had worked ever since. It could have just been a loose connection all the time or it could have been a damaged wire. This is a 92 Plymouth Voyager driven in a hot climate and very poorly maintained by this relative.
I had tried to jump across the starter in my diagnosis of the problem, but the starter was buried under the intake manifold on the back side of the engine. I don't know where the starter is on the v70, but you can probably get an aftermarket repair manual and try jumping at the starter relay or starter, or even better across the proper contacts under the steering wheel with the key in the ignition swiched to the run position. But if the problem is intermittant it is hard for an amateur to draw conclusions.
On my 91 Spirit the problem was the ignition switch, and on our 96 Volvo 850 wgn it was the starter itself. A shop put in a rebuilt Volvo starter for some serious $$$ and the problem was fixed. My wife later totalled the 850 wgn and got an '04 V70 2.4L base model.
Before I changed the ign switch I drove my 91 Spirit for a short while as follows: insert key in the ignition and make sure tranny is in neutral; get out and open hood and using a piece of 12 ga copper house wire momentarily jump across the appropriate contacts on the starter relay, activating starter; shut hood and drive off. If I had killed the engine in stop-and-go traffic it would have been a dangerous situation. Having a car that will not start reliably is an unsafe condition.
My nephew had an intermittant non-starting problem with his 2001 Jeep Grqand Cherokee and as I understand it it was nothing more than corroded battery connections, though the dealer charged $280 for towing, diagnosis, a new battery and perhaps new "cable terminations" (?! I wasn't there to get the story from the repair shop.)
I'm now wondering about the supposed bad starter on our 1996 850 wgn.
mitzi
:shades:
I don't need the 25,000 mile change interval oil because I'm not putting that many miles on it in a year.
*"XL SAE 10W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil API certified
Extended Drain Intervals
Specifically designed for extended drain intervals beyond 3,000 miles as established by vehicle manufacturers such as Honda (10,000 miles in certain vehicles) and for those vehicles equipped with oil monitoring devices. Standard drain interval recommendation is 7500 miles where the vehicle manufacturer does not specify extended drain intervals.
Product Code: XLT"
Due to forced air induction a turbo- or supercharged engine can have a significantly higher absolute pressure of the air-fuel mixture than a NA engine even though the latter nowadays usually has a higher compression ratio. I got my 2004 V70 as a hand-me-down and it replaced a 1991 Dodge Spirit with NA 2.5L, 8-valve, single OHC, 4-cyl rated at 100 hp! That engine had an about 9:1 CR and used US regular 87 AKI gasoline. I don't know if it had a knock sensor or not.
Suppose you did fuel the Volvo 2.4L NA 168hp 5-cyl (CR 10.3:1) with AKI 87. Under what conditions would the knock sensing and engine control system be retarding the timing to prevent knocking?
I recently pulled the engine and transmission in order to replace old seals and gaskets. The car has 225,000 miles and was leaking everywhere, but other than that, the car was running fine. I put the engine back in, and the car turns over strongly, but won’t fire. There is no spark getting to the plugs so I checked the distributor wire coming from the coil. There was no spark either. I have checked the crankshaft positioning sensor and the camshaft positioning sensor. Both check out good. I checked all fuses to make sure none were burnt. All good. I double checked all connectors to all sensors and cleaned them with connector cleaner to ensure good contact. I double checked the timing and alignment marks and even put a compression tool in the number 1 cylinder to make sure that it is on top dead center. There are no codes although I am using a regular code reader not specifically for Volvo's. I have hit rock bottom. Any help on why I am getting no spark? I really need this car to run.
Jacob
Told me knock sensor codes showed (ECM 3410 ECM 3420).
Found severe oil sludge build-up at oil filter when performing routine oil change (had it changed 3000 miles earlier with no problem).
The service rep told me I had 2 choices:
1) Remove the sump and check for amount of sludge in bottom of engine adn clean ($700-$1000)
2) Replace the engine.(current engine has 78k)
I drove tghe car home and warning lights did not go on.
Any thoughts on the problem? Is it worth removng the "sump' and cleaning it? SHould I chekc with another repari shop?
This suggests that you should get the crankcase ventilation system checked. If this model still has the troublesome flame trap design, then change the flame trap (a little perforated plastic disc). This is a very simple maintenance item which I changed myself on my wife's 1996 850 Wagon (855). But it wasn't plugged perhaps because I had for years used Mobile1 10W-30.
In fact you might be able to empty the oil and change to full synthetic without dropping the pan. You might be able to flush the sump with the oil drain plug out by pouring some oil down the dip stick tube and seeing if it forces sludge out the drain hole. Alternatively, you could possibly evacuate sludge from the bottom of the pan with one of those oil evacuation devices which is inserted in the dipstick tube.
But the safer route is probably to drop the pan and clean out the pan and oil pump pickup, then change to Mobile1 which is much more resistant than dino oil is to sludge formation. Mobile1 is $5 to $7 per quart depending on source but I think it is worth it.
For him not to die completly, I press the pedal (very hard) and he runs a little bit and finnaly stops.
All dash lights dim. I can start the car immediatly, but he as no power.
One thing I noticed these last days...I feel the car more heavy than normal.
Anybody as any idea what the problem is?
I live in a new building and unfortunatly I park my car in the wrong place. They tow my car, without using a flat bed. The volvo cross country needs to be tow only in flat bed.
Do this people damage something or this is just a coincidence?
Take the car to a mechanic for the engine malfunction, this is an unacceptable and unsafe condition.
I would be pretty disappointed to have to pay $1500 for a fuel filter and a distributor cap, but I am spoiled. I think in about 2000 the oxygen sensors on the 850 went out, and this was about $600 P&L which shocked me.
A little less than a year ago I sold my 1991 Dodge Spirit 2.5L 5-spd, which I had had for 16.5 years, and which I was able to do simple maintenance and repairs on myself. A dist cap and a fuel filter would have been about $50 to $100 for the parts, and I would est $100 for labor, but I know that the parts and labor for modern upscale cars is a lot more.
How many miles on the engine and what oil have you been using? Your hydraulic lifters may be sticking. By changing to synthetic oil of the right viscosity you might be able to free the lifters.
Of course, you are overdue on the timing belt change, and that should be attended to ASAP. I understand that this is an interference engine, so that if the timing belt would break, some valves and pistons would collide, resulting in a major repair of thousands of dollars.
However, more knowledgeable people might be of the opinion that an engine flush would be the right thing, and know what flush to use.
I know the timing belt change isn't cheap. On my last car (Dodge Spirit) the usual procedure was to change the water pump at the same time to save labor charges. I presume that the service records don't show that the water pump on your V70 has already been changed. Maintaining any car isn't cheap, and Volvos are more expensive than US made "value" vehicles, but less than some others.
I decided to get out the manual on my 2004 V70 2.4L 168 hp base model non-turbo, and I am sorta surprised at the oil recommendations. For the past few years I have used Mobile1 10W-30 Extended performance, and left in in for 1-year which was always less than 12,000 miles. I decided that with a synthetic oil 40-wt would be unnecessary even in the Dallas TX USA climate, and might give lower highway mpg. The only justification for 40-wt I can figure is that Volvo is allowing for the possibility that standard dino oil in a hot climate with hard use could lose viscosity before the 7500 mile change interval is reached. Or maybe they think that some of their clientele will want to use 40-wt and Volvo are giving them "permission." Or maybe a 2.4L driven hard in a hot climate develops local hot spots than benefit from 40-wt.
2004 V70 Manual Page 137:
SAE 5W/30 from below -30F to 86F (30C)
SAE 5W/40 from below -30F to 104F (40C)
SAE 10W/30 from -20F to 104F (40C).
I use 10W/30 because I want to get the best highway mpg I can and I want to have the longest oil change interval and I think 10W30 will "last longer" than 5W30. Lightly loaded and clean (nothing on roof) I habitually get well over 30 mpgUS (36 mpgUK or 7.8 L/100km) even at 75-80 mph. (75 mpg is a common legal limit on I-40 in New Mexico and Arizona; one stretch of I-10 in west Texas has an 80 mph legal limit. Last the winter I got 34 mpgUS for 700 miles across Arizona and New Mexico on I-40. No hypermiling, just steady driving.)
Another possible choice is Mobile1 0W-40 "European Car Formula" which is one of the recommended oils in my wife's 2007 XC90 3.2. A "0W-__" oil should give better protection during the frequent warmup periods of urban short trip use.
In a thermostatted engine I cannot see why even very hot ambient temperature should nesessitate using an oil with a higher upper viscosity number, unless the car is being driven at the edge of what the cooling system can handle.