have a 2004 V70 2.5T (220,000km). It started after work today and I drove to the store. I came out and I couldn't get it to open with the remote . I used the key in the driver side door to open it. The car starts but 3 seconds later the instrument panel lights shut off, the gas gauge drops to zero, the A/C stops but the fan works, the drivers window works, but no signals or brake lights and the doors won't unlock from the drivers armrest. The red dash light indicating the alarm being engaged is still flashing. Any ideas what is going on?
I've read all your postings with a lot of interest. My 2004 V70 has in recent months been experiencing intermittent "seizures" (where while driving on the highway, the dashboard indicator lights start flashing and the accelerator experiences sudden jolts), which are then followed by "strokes", where the left side electronic controls go completely dark (dash lights, gauges, windows, brake lights, turn signals are completely non-responsive). The accelerator still works but feels sluggish. Strangely, enough the right-side window controls and the radio still work fine. This has been resolved by pulling over and re-starting the car, after which all electronics come back up just fine. Recently, it happened at night in rush-hour traffic... no brake lights, no turn signals and no windows to roll down for hand signals. Not good. Took it in to the local dealer and they found a fried connection between the transmission control module (TCM) and the wiring harness (wires that network the car's computers together) that was causing small voltage fluctuations, which cause the car's computer network to rollover into fail-safe mode (hence the jolts). He told me they could attempt to apply an electrical conducting adhesive to the connection for free, or replace both the wiring harness and TCM for $1500. I opted for the former, but had another seizure/stroke on the highway this week. Methinks I'm gonna be out $1,500 soon :-(
Hi everyone! I have had my v70 for nearly a year and recently I've been experiencing some headlight failure on the driver's side. I have the uber expensive Bi-Xenon bulb kits so this is posing a bit of a problem for me. The bulb and wiring are fine on the non-working headlight (I have a private mechanic who works on the car) but he has informed me that the ballast is shot. I understand that getting a ballast from the dealer is going to be exceedingly expensive (somewhere in the neighborhood of $600) and a used one isn't very reliable. This predicament brings me to my ultimate question: would it be more cost effective to just switch the headlights to Halogens? If so, is the procedure simple and what components would be involved? Are there extra parts needed to make the switch successful? I have been researching this, but it has been to no avail. I am trying to avoid paying $200 for ONE Xexon box. Thoughts? Thanks so much!
I had the same exact thing happen Thursday, 7/21, I'm told it's my SIMs card. It's going to cost between $1500-1800 for replacement. I've been told that this happens in hot weather. It started last week and I had the computer rebooted, but given that it didn't last and we're having a heat wave I decided to get it replaced.
So this has been a saga with me. The first time I had this issue, I took it to the Volvo dealership near work. They took everything appart and cleaned and reset all the electrical connections into the CEM (Central Electronic Module). Labour for this cost about $800. It seemed to rectify the problem and it worked for about 12 months. This past June (the 9th), the exact same issue reappeared. I took it to the Volvo dealership closer to my home, and they identified it as the DIM (driver information module). They cleaned and reset the DIM and it seem fixed (for $400). This past Thursday (July 21st) it happened again....so after $1200 in work its still acting up. I talked it over with the head of service, we ran further diagnostics, and we have replaced the CEM ($1360). I am crossing my fingers that this soap opera is done.
Simply order an HID kit from China with Aliexpress. I have done many conversions using these kits. They are cheap and have given me no troubles. You should be able to select a kit with bulbs that match the OEM bulbs and use the ballasts that come with the kit. Possibly order the ballasts alone.
I hope your problem is fixed. If not, I understand that whilst replacing the CEM, the dealer must also rewire the the cabling to CEM and install a new shield that cover the cabling. This is located under the wiper motor, so you need to take out the scuttle panel to check if the modification has been done.
This was a recall / modification bullitin issues by Volvo
I have a 2003 v70 wagon (loaded, with winter package)-almost 100K miles - For no apparent reason, the fuel/temp gauges move back and forth, all dash lights disappear, the digital clock speeds ahead, the "no seatbelt" chime starts, the doors start to unlock and lock repeatedly, interior turn signal lights fail to come on, but the signals still work on the exterior (thank goodness!) - cig lighter dead as a door nail (fuse is good) - starter issues occasionally - will give a little click and nothing happens - I have to take the key out several times and restart and then she will come around. Is there hope for another 50K miles with this vehicle (our second and LAST Volvo product due to the lack of integrity of the service staff)? Or should I make her a DNR? Thanks for any suggestions or feedback. Pam
I have a new-ish battery, about 1.5 years old; I have a brand new alternator but my car has trouble starting, but its also not consistently having trouble. One day it turns over then dies, battery light comes on, etc. After at least a few tries, and giving it a bit of gas, it starts! So confusing. Recently my mechanic cleaned my manifold intake and said it was dirty and probably will need a new one soon.
Has anyone had this happen? Is a new manifold intake really worth $700. ? I am located in the northeast, NY state.. thank you
Purchased a 2004 V70 2.5T (118,000+ miles/production date 04/03) a couple weeks ago. Cleaned a bit on the interior of the car this morning while parked in my driveway... started the car after I finished to make sure I hadn't drained the battery with the interior lights being on... started perfectly. Went out about 2 hours later to make a grocery run... NOTHING. The keyless entry worked, dash lights illuminated, the radio came on... all windows functioned, etc. . I jumped the Volvo off of my mother's Honda Odyssey... STILL NOTHING. I disconnected the battery for about 20 minutes, cleaned the terminals... SAME... A WHOLE LOT OF NOTHING. This is my only vehicle. I live in a small town... NO VOLVO DEALERS within 50 miles. Can ya help me?!?!
New to the board
I have a 98 v70 wagon that suddenly lost the low beams on both sides. Tried the fuses and bulbs, and they look ok. Any ideas what to try next?
There seems to be a short in the panel lighting on my 2001 V70. All indicators come on OK, but after a while, the gas needle goes to zero; the milometer LED goes out; the indicator lights don't flash and the speedometer needle goes to zero. Every now and then they all start working for a time, before repeating the pattern. Other lights work, and the radio works just fine.
Comments
Took it in to the local dealer and they found a fried connection between the transmission control module (TCM) and the wiring harness (wires that network the car's computers together) that was causing small voltage fluctuations, which cause the car's computer network to rollover into fail-safe mode (hence the jolts). He told me they could attempt to apply an electrical conducting adhesive to the connection for free, or replace both the wiring harness and TCM for $1500. I opted for the former, but had another seizure/stroke on the highway this week. Methinks I'm gonna be out $1,500 soon :-(
Thanks so much!
This was a recall / modification bullitin issues by Volvo
Hope that help.
One day it turns over then dies, battery light comes on, etc. After at least a few tries, and giving it a bit of gas, it starts! So confusing. Recently my mechanic cleaned my manifold intake and said it was dirty and probably will need a new one soon.
Has anyone had this happen? Is a new manifold intake really worth $700. ?
I am located in the northeast, NY state..
thank you
New to the board
I have a 98 v70 wagon that suddenly lost the low beams on both sides. Tried the fuses and bulbs, and they look ok. Any ideas what to try next?
I replaced the bulb and checked the fuse but headlight still won't work : I'll try the CEM though