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Dodge Caliber Brake Questions
Discuss any branking issue about your Caliber here.
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is being used for "extreme" duty in your business.
Brake wear is a very subjective topic as there are so
many factors involved i.e. driver(s),terrain,traffic
loads,# of stop & go cycles and speeds in cycles.
The only suggestion I have is when your slowing that
you try dropping the CVT to "L" and use the engine
to brake the car first,I often do this in the city.
I am not sure what the wear factor will be on the CVT
but then again I am not driving 250 miles a day nor
do I have expediency factor of a courier service to
deal with in my daily routine.
All that being said I think your Caliber is a good
test bed for not only us but for DCX to watch and see
how much abuse the CVT can take although I hope they
will honour your warantee because of the use involved.
Good luck!!!
has issued a recall concerning ESP,ABS and brake
distribution software upgrade on 62,000 2007 models
including the Caliber.
I believe the recall refers to the AWD Caliber as
those are the later models with ESP/ABS.
Todate I personally have had no brake issues
on my 2.0L/CVT SXT.
My brakes are squeaking pretty badly especially when I stop while going down a hill. The dealer INSISTS there's nothing wrong with them. I'm at 8K so there's no way it's the pads, and I'm wondering if there's a mis-adjusted caliper.
I'm thinking of taking the car to an independent mechanic and having him check the brakes for me. Does anyone know if DCX will honor the warranty if he found something, I had it fixed and then showed up with receipts?
that would be a help in resolving the problem.
I had a slight squeak develop this week in the rear wheels
so I took it to my dealer and they pulled the rear drums
only then cleaned and lubricated the assys and resolved the
problem in 25 minutes.
I have 21,000 kilometers on the odometer.
Anyone have any ideas what this might be? 2007 R/T AWD caliber, when we put it in reverse and back up, if you hit the brake it makes this awful noise. We have it going to be looked at tomorrow, but just curious if anyone else experienced something like this?
The RT is equipped with disc brakes on all 4 wheels so it eliminates brake
adjusters,I would say best bet is let the dealer resolve your problem.
however some of those have turned out to brake pad problems.
I would take it to a reliable repair shop or dealer and have it varified.
Some claim it occurs because the brakes were not "bedded" properly,
that's the process of setting new brake components by driving at
moderate speed and applying brakes sharply several times while letting
them cool off between applications.
Others claim that if after a panic stop you sit there with the brakes
apllied for a period of time it develops a hot spot on the rotor which
causes them to warp prematurely.
What ever the case maybe I would have them checked and replaced if
necessary for safety reasons.
Are they the original brakes?
What kind of enviroment(snow/salt)?
What is rear brake drum or disc? (front are discbrakes on all Calibers)
Any excess noise is not good/right it's worth having them looked at
by someone who knows what they are doing.
Mike
The smallest 10.8" x 1.0" for use with front disk/rear drums.
The largest 11.5" x 1.0" for use with front disk/rear disk.
In the service manual it states the 10.8" is for wheels 15" or larger,
while the 11.5" can be found on cars with 16" or larger.
After they tow me off the turnpike....ohhh!!! did I forget to mention I was driving on the turnpike when this happen.....when pple are driving over 60mph in the am.....So the guy who tow my car told me that its the cylinders...two were not working...but he could not fix it because apparently dodge has a software for their cars and my was not put in so they could not diganiose the car and had to tow it to a chyslar dealer who said i needed a software and colis, and clean the throbble? then they wanted to fix my brakes i was like whats the point if the cars engine doesnt work they way it should.....then four days later it happen again!!! I dont know what to do....Im so mad....if they are known for having problems like this why arent they trying to help fix it instead.....can i sue? :sick: :mad:
2007 Dodge caliber- Don't like the car but I'm stuck with it. It has a violent shake and the oil light has been dining and coming on and off for like 2 months now. Found out I need an oil switch which I can probably do myself instead of paying the mechanic $195+ to do it. Also, I need front rotors which I knew already.
Advanced auto and other stores have them for $45 each. I know there r 2 different sets,so I have to figure out which one. The mechanic is telling me the cost to install them and the brake pads I need, is gonna be $600.
I am laughing rn.
I sort of am very weary of mechanic shops. Especially the chain ones. This is a private owned shop. And I am wondering if they think I am stupid or something. They say each rotor coasts $95 plus tax. Hmm. the oil switch in the store will cost me 7.99. If I don't need a new connector. I am a female so maybe that had something to do with the high price jumps. I don't know.
So I am going to buy the parts on saturday and use my new jack, though I like car ramps a lot better. And I will try to install all the parts myself. Does anyone know of anything I should look out for? Such as hard to remove screws or nuts? This car already supposedly had the rotors cut before 48 k miles. ridiculous, but stuck with it.