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Did the tire (or wheel) sustain any damage?
I would not use summer tires in the snow at all. I would order a set of winter rims and tires.
Try tirerack.com, discounttires.com, and vulcantire.com.
My guess is that when you hit the curb, you also may have damaged the ABS sensor and that's why you are seeing the ABS light on the dash.
As for redline at 2000RPMs, check your shift-light setting. It's adjustable, and perhaps when you tagged the curb, it got moved down to the 2000 setting.
On the Blowoff Valve, gotta ask WHY DO YOU HAVE IT? First of all it gives you LESS POWER than the stocker, and yes, they may hassle you at the dealer, but none of the problems you are bringing this in for would be covered under warranty since you did the damage by hitting a curb.
Tires will be rock hard. I have stock EVO tires on my Legacy GT which are very similar to the summer tires on the STi, and I just switched em out at the nick of time yesterday.
-mike
-mike
1 - Doesnt like to go in reverse...once in reverse cant get it out of reverse...like i can take it out of reverse and it be "nutral" but i cant put it in any gears...i took it to five differant garages and they said my clutch is fine...i usally have to play with my car for 2 to 3 hours with the shifter and double clutchin and it will evenutally go into gear...when im driven on the interstate (every day) ill put it in to fifth gear and say i catch up to a car (which isnt hard to do) waiting to past him ill take my foot off the gas so my rpms drop and i slow down...and i can see my shifter in fifth gear go up in down...hard...i had a broken trani mount and thought that was the case...nope still does it....
2 - Just a week ago up to today when i stop or roll and take off...my car makes a poppin noise from the motor i know what a CV joint makes so i know its not that....it makes the popin noise like its miss firing or something in 2 and 3 gear...and it jerks the car...
3. low gas milliage...i travle to work every week (5days) which is a 48 mile total to work and back home...and i will fill it to where that gas is commin out so i know shes full...and drive her to "E" pretty much like a 1/16 of a tank...and only able to get 200 miles total so ya im fillin up every four days...and i go 75 mph on the interstate...
anyone have and ideas on any of my 3 problems post what you think is the case...but only if you know what your truley talkin about...becaseu i dont have time to screw around i want someone that knows whats they are talkin about...i need theses answer so i can fix them asap because im in the ARMY and its my only ride....because i live in the sticks(maine) near not to many people that travle the way i do in the morning...
Thanks
Zach-
2. Popping like a miss? or popping like something is loose. I would say motor mounts may be in play given the age of the car.
1. When did you last change your trans fluid? What are the ambient temps? I'd say go with a fresh fluid change to synthetic.
-mike
2. how would i go about check the mounts...and i was thinkin it might be the drive shaft clunking the pin on either end might be broken and the drive shaft could twisting off set...
1. i havent changed it sense i bought the car...only had it for 4 to 5 months but ill go ahead an do that....
addition problem....check engin light came on got it check it was the knock senser only thing that came up...replaced it and i was driven down the highway and it turned back on...this morning i am leaven for work and the check engin light blinks for a while then it will turn back to the solid check engin light no more blinking...wtf does that mean motor about to blow? haha
zach
As for the milage you are getting about 18mpg which isn't that far off, especially if you are getting knocking and misfires. Also if you are doing an extended warmup that will knock down your milage.
-mike
ill look at the spark plugs tomorrow and why not ill change them and ill check my plugs....dont know what a coilpack is nor where thats located...but ill find it...
i love this car so i just want to fix it and babby it...well baby the out side...
zach
HEY! i need someone to tell me if theres anything thats out there that will boost my fuel miliage up! in maine its cold we warm the damn things up gas $$$ want better gas milliage...there a chip or and mods that i can do to boost it up with performance...
NOTE: this morning had a Camero pull up next to me this morning and smiled...i smiled back and lit his world on FIRE...advantage on my half with AWD do we just had a storm yesterday so it was still slippery...then we wanted to play on the high way...well i think we all know what happend next he can turn inbetween car like us SUB's can!!! never saw him again...ps he had a PIDDITAL!!!
i had another post up about my engine and trani...i have about 4 problems with my car right now...but im not going out that easy, subaru's are my life love them...anyways so these's are my current problems:
bent link for high gears that goes into my trani...
cars miss firing...
gas miliage sucks...
frozen rear caliper...Minner
and what this post is all about, i have replace a knox sensor in my car about not even jokin a month ago. check engin light came on so i got it looked at replace the knox sensor...so you know everythings fine...then the light comes on...run the codes again and its the damn sensor again...so now im like WTF!!! then another code runs by and its my coil pack that needs to be replace thats the miss firing...
yup so ill leave it at that...
Zach
I believe the coil costs something like $80 from an on-line parts wholesaler.
First, the less you idle it, the better your mileage. For example, we had a 4-day spurt of -30 to -40 temperatures earlier this week. When we warm the car up prior to driving it, such as when we take the children or out of sheer laziness, we get about 16 mpg. This time, though, I was just using it to commute, so I fired it up, let it idle for about 30 seconds, and then off I went. My fuel economy, while not stellar, was 19 mpg. In the summer months, on the same commute, it is more like 26-27 mpg.
Other things that help:
*Amsoil Series 2000 0w-30 engine oil. Fabulous stuff for winter driving. Regular 5w-30 will turn to sludge long before the Amsoil even shows signs of increased viscosity.
*Amsoil 75w-90 synthetic gear oil. If you have a manual transmission, which it looks like you do, this stuff really reduces drag in the driveline. Other synthetics probably give similar benefits; I only mention Amsoil because I have personally used it.
*Block heater and pad heaters. At temperatures below +20 degrees F, plugging in the car two hours prior to start-up will reduce fuel consumption and emissions. Of course, then your electricity bill goes up slightly. A block heater is 400 watts, and oil pan heaters are typically 75 watts. Not huge power users, but depending on how long they are on, they make a difference.
We pay 13.5 cents per kilowatt-hour here in Fairbanks right now, so electricity is horribly expensive. I keep my cord on a timer to minimize the electricity consumption. At 40-below, pre-warming the engine makes the difference between a flawless startup and possibly not starting at all.
-mike
I could use a little advice on this problem. My 96 Impreza has a light on the dash called ' AT TEMP'. Lately when starting from cold, the light will occasionally flash several times before staying off. As far as I can tell, only when cold starting. Anyone have a clue?
-mike
-mike
-mike
I'd say the clutch is shot or there is something preventing it from fully releasing and slipping.
How many miles on the car?
Any mods?
Drag race at all?
-mike
Has anyone else had this problem? I'm a tad worried because when it stalls I loose my steering which is obviously a huge safety issue if the car is still moving.
Any advice would be appreciated! I new to Subaru (used to drive a Honda Civic) and have never experienced anything like this in the past....
-mike
Thanks.
I'd run full synthetic (redline or amsoil) for such a high milage car.
On the AT I'd put a cooler in and make sure that is drained/filled every 20k miles.
Other than that you should be good to go.
-mike
-mike
I pushed the clutch in and applied the brake in the usual gentle manner. Once I had come to a stop I noticed a couple new lights on the dash. I then realized the car had stalled. I started the car again, accelerated forward a little then hit the breaks, same thing, it stalled again!
I then thought it might be due to excessive power draw (please note lights were not on, nor was defroster... just radio, AC to dehumidify, and wife's seat warmer). At this point I turned seat warmer off, likely largest draw. I then accelerated and hit the brakes, the rpm slowly came down as normal then dropped below the 300 rpm line and lugged but recovered (barely).
Anyway, after that day I have now always nervously watched the Tachometer when clutch goes in or I stop. I have noticed the RPM going very low and lugging many a time but no stall.
Now it has only been a few days since the stalling and I believe I know what the problem is!
When you start the car the blue/cold engine light is on. If you drive away without allowing the car sufficient time to warm up (and the blue light go off) then the idle seems to run lower and recover from an RPM drop poorly. I believe this may be the computer learning the precise idle mixture requirements for idle (given atmospheric conditions). If you drive away too early it is not given adequate time to make the adjustments.
Please let me know as I have ensure blue light goes out always since then and all lugging has even gone away completely.
-mike
Motorsports and Modifications Host
Anyway, I have made an appointment for next Wednesday, I'll keep you all informed.
-mike
Motorsports and Modifications Host
Does it sound like a fuel pump? Does this car have an oil pressure relay that could control the fuel pump?