Mazda 626 Transmission Questions

mikemichelmikemichel Member Posts: 1
I am planning to buy a 2002 mazda 626 with 60000 miles but I
after reading forums I noticed many 626 mazda had transmission problems.

Please advice me whether is worth to buy it.

Thanks in advance


  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    I assume the car you want to buy has an auto tranmsission. If yes, the V6 car auto transmissions are much better units than the troublesome Ford unit used on the 4 cylinder versions. 5 speed manual transmission is the best choice for all mazda 626 cars./
  • dickmetsdickmets Member Posts: 2
    I think my auto transmission is shot on my 1998 Mazda 626 LX with 163,000 miles on it. I did replace a Speed Sensor and a Velocity Sensor about 5,000 & 10,000 miles ago when I thought I was having transmission problems at that time....but the sensor replacements made my problems disappear. Other than the transmission the car is in great shape, inside & out. Is it worth putting a junk yard transmission into it for $1,200 or having a rebuilt transmission for around $2,000 put into it. I don't know how long these Mazda 626's go for mileage wise? Coincidentally, 10 days before I had transmission problems, I ran over a dead deer (it had just been hit) and I had to straddle it and it rumbled under the car. Could the deer have caused something to break in the transmission?
    Any help or guidance would be apprectiated. Thanks, Rich
  • misticmindmisticmind Member Posts: 3
    I would never buy another automatic transmission for Mazda - especially the 4 cyl. Do you know that Mazda does not even open their own transmissions - they order a used one. This shows how confident they are with their transmissions.
  • misticmindmisticmind Member Posts: 3
    My suggestion would be to stay away from junkyards - after paying $625 for a used one and $400 to have it installed finding out it did not work was totally frustrating. I got my $625 back - but loss the $400. Same as the diagnosis test done at Mazda last week cost me $300 instead of $79.95 as the mechanic had to do all these tests and take it out for a test drive - the hours were counted and I had to pay to find out it was the transmission - and after all that - transmission is ok - it was the Transmission Range Switch which needed to be changed. Not my month..... I am keeping it because I do not owe anything on it - but I will not put the amount of money into the car like I just did.
  • ashleydw85ashleydw85 Member Posts: 6
    my car crapped out on me. does anyone know what would cause it to not go in reverse without having to take it to the dealership? I think the transmission filter is clogged. But everyone tells me it's a non-serviceable transmission and that I have to take it to a dealership but I don't want to pay that much. anyone have any suggestions? :confuse:
  • ashleydw85ashleydw85 Member Posts: 6
    Does anyone know what would cause it to not go into reverse? Everywhere I call says it's a non-serviceable transmission and that I have to take it to a transmission shop. If anyone knows how I could fix it without going to the dealer or a shop, please let me know.
  • willboy1968willboy1968 Member Posts: 2
    well what what i seen in my time as having one is reverse is a gear and sometimes gears are worn. i have seen people just drive frontwards because of it to keep from buying another transmission.
  • willboy1968willboy1968 Member Posts: 2
    i have a problem my over drive light comes on and off but i fixed the wirering the first time and it worked. but no when it gets hot it starts to slip .
  • babykingbabyking Member Posts: 1
    Wow sounds like what I have thanks for sharing with the group,
    How much was the Transmission Range Switch?
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    The right thing to buy in these cars is a manual transmission. The one in my '99 ES V6 has been absolutely bulletproof - still performing like new at 176k miles.
  • pisssedoffpisssedoff Member Posts: 1
    do not do it we have a 2000 626 transmission went out before 60;000 miles
  • elrlawelrlaw Member Posts: 20
    Clutch has seemingly failed at about 145,000. It failed at about 90,000 and had it replaced for $900. New mechanic in new city wants $450 to take apart transmission which he says has to be done anyway to replace clutch and then about another $750 to replace clutch. Does this make sense? Can the trans fail but not the clutch? Why not just replace the clutch? Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks.
  • alexmbjalexmbj Member Posts: 1
    Hi, all-
    Please, can someone can offer some insight as to whether my ex-wife’s 626 transmission is shot, or not?
    She has the ’96 626, 2.0 4 cyl, auto- (I took a look under it, and there isn’t a bottom pan for the trans, the pan is upright on the side. Is this the CD4E?)

    What it’s doing is this:
    Crank it, hot or cold, put it in any gear, and it pulls normally for 30 or 40 yards, and then the transmission starts slipping bad, then no pull at all. The engine just revs (sort of like it’s real low on fluid). You can stop and put it in any gear, and it won't pull at all.

    But- I found if you turn off the engine for just 5 seconds, then crank it again and put it in any gear, it will pull strong and normally-- for 30 or 40 yards, until it slips again.

    I checked the trans fluid level, and it’s risen above the normal range where it was recently when I checked, and now shows as overfull on the dipstick, like an inch and a half past the don't add mark.
    The fluid does look a bit dark, not real red, but doesn’t really smell burnt to me. There’s 140,000 miles on the car.

    At first I thought the transmission was shot, but the way it pulls strong after the engine’s off for a few seconds has me mystified.

    Can anyone please say what might be happening here, and whether it’s worth it to try changing the filter and fluid?
    All help very much appreciated!

    Thank you-
    Alex B
    PS- Now I see that the filter is deep inside this transmission-- dang.
  • eharingeharing Member Posts: 2
    The car jerks when it get hot and intermittantly shifts. Diagnosis show bad trans range switch. for $300. and they would fix and maybe that would fix problem. Does anyone know what indicated a bad trans range switch or could it be another sensor. You have to go at least 50 miles over 60mpm on hwy before it happens.
    Thanks Ernie
  • mando49mando49 Member Posts: 1
    would like to know if you found the problem. my daughter's 1995 626 transmission went out with no warning. The car will not go forward or reverse.
  • bkristellerbkristeller Member Posts: 1
    from the sounds of it i'm having the same problem as a few others. 2000 mazda 626 4 cyl. auto transmission. my transmission will shift out of overdrive and back into over drive rather hard when i'm maintaining speed of about 50-60 miles an hour. if i take over drive off and slow down to about 40-45 the problem goes away for a little bit but it'll start doing it again after driving around for a while. the problem doesnt happen untill the car gets warm and has been driven for about 20-30 min. the check engine light came on and i had them read the code and it came back trans range switch output high.i went to the dealer ship and paid and ordered the transmission range switch so i'm hoping that it'll fix it. does any one have any advice or helpfull tips for installing that switch. i'm a back yard mechanic and don't have a lot of fancy tools but it's my only car and i need this problem fixed. please let me know if you guys can think of anything helpful to me. thank you guys
  • backybacky Twin CitiesMember Posts: 18,946
    One thing to consider is, if your car doesn't have an auxiliary transmission cooler, add one. It's about $200 installed by a Mazda dealer (maybe less if elsewhere?). I had one installed on my 2000 626 4AT when I bought it over 2 years ago, on the dealer's recommendation. The car shifted poorly and the check engine light came on. Since the cooler was installed I've had zero problems with the tranny.
  • frank78frank78 Member Posts: 2
    Ok here is my problem i have a 1995 626 lx with a 2.0 and a cd4e tranny when i start the car or anytime for that matter and put it into drive with the overdrive on it does not go into drive with out giving it some throttle if i turn the overdrive off and put it into drive it will jump into drive after a few seconds of waiting if i am driving down the road going about 20 and turn the overdrive on it jumps out of gear i turn the od back off and it goes back into gear anyone have any comments to make as to what it may be the car has 172000km on it and no after market tranny cooler
  • frank78frank78 Member Posts: 2
    Forgot to add if i have the overdrive on and force it to drive by giving it gas the overdrive off light will start blinking and if i am driving down the road with the overdrive on and come to a stop it will jump out of gear when i get to about 5 km/hour
    my wife also added the radiator fan seems to be coming on alot more than it used to
  • kfpflakfpfla Member Posts: 5
    Hello Ernie,

    One quick question: Does the O/D light Flash when on extended highway trips?

    If it does, you may have a "known" Mazda Service Issue. My 1998, Mazda 626 LX 4 cyl 2.0 had a very similar issue that happened only after driving at highway speeds for about an 70 minutes.

    I spoke with a guy who rebuilds these transmissions. He said that when the O/D light "flashes", it is caused by a malfunction within the computer or a minor defect in the transmission.

    When the light goes on, it enters a Fail-Safe mode… (the EPC solenoid opens up and brings line pressure up to 'max') ... the only catch is it raises the fluid pressure well beyond normal specs (it goes from 100 to 400 PSI).

    It is at this time where you get your major failures. (Mazda switched the Automatic 626 to OBD II around the 1996 model year, so if you have a '96 or later, you'll need a full-fledged OBD II-compatible scan tool.)

    A Mazda Technical Service Bulletin exists for some 1999-2001 models. TSB 05-005/02 deals with one specific circumstance: "After extended highway driving, the O/D off light is blinking and code P1783 is set (excessive ATF temperature). Occasionally there will be overflow through the dipstick tube and harsh shifting. Mazda's recommended fix is to replace the radiator and to install an auxiliary cooler for the transmission."

    It sure can not hurt to tell your mechanic to examine the Mazda Technical Service Bulletin 05-005/02. Keep in mind that once your car goes in safe mode, your transmission fluid will get burnt up real fast. A transmission cooler cost about 40-50 bucks, and will extend the life of the poorly designed Mazda/Ford transmission. You will need to replace your transmission fluid during the install (if burnt) and read the directions on the cooler to adapt for any additional fluid.

    Search on the internet for a Hayden Transmission Cooler, either Hayden 404 or Hayden 679... I prefer Hayden 404 because it has bigger piping than the 679 which doesn't restrict tranny fluid flow (Some use B&M Super Coolers).

    Some people also recommend going with a synthetic transmission fluid (Supertech 2000 synthetic fluid for cheaper alternative).

    Some people have also claimed that by using Honda's transmission fluid (Dexron I instead of Mazda's Dexron III). The thicker Honda Fluid w/ Honda's special additives have caused a rebirth to their Mazda transmissions.

    You can also consider installing a Tranny Temp Gauge so that you can see the difference the cooler makes (and know when to stop prior to an transmission overheat.)

    I would recommend printing out this and showing it to a trusted mechanic.

    Good Luck
  • parnell1234parnell1234 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2002 Mazda 626 been driving it a year the car runs great,but the other day the car started jerking felt like the transmission.The Overdrive light comes on evevery time it jerks could someone please help me.
  • 5ddjjh5ddjjh Member Posts: 4
    it was suggested that i check for ablown fuse in my 99 mazda 626 w/ auto trans. the car suddenly quit shifting into gear and a check of the fluid reveals it is up to level and not burned. when you start the engine, the fluid level drops, indicating that the pump is functioning. My questions are 1. if there is a blown fuse, where is it located? 2. if not a blown fuse, where would the module be located that affects shifting?
  • mkmvettemkmvette Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 mazda 626 that starts just fine but when put into any gear (even neutral) will not move at all, wont roll, wont go anywhere. Any ideas what it might be? Thanks! Marsha
  • 5ddjjh5ddjjh Member Posts: 4

    My daughter has a 99 626 automatic and it suddenly quit moving when you shift it into any posistion. In this case, it turned out to be simple. The transmission shift cable came loose at the transmission. It appeared to have lost some sort of retainer that attaches the cable to the shift lever on the transmission. It was a cheap and easy fix. Good luck

  • mkmvettemkmvette Member Posts: 2
    Thank you!
  • boat8boat8 Member Posts: 2
    I have the same problem,,,would you please tell me what the outcome was,,and the cost ?
  • boat8boat8 Member Posts: 2
    Where is the filter located,,,and can a home repair mechanic replace it easily ?
  • 5ddjjh5ddjjh Member Posts: 4
    Let me make sure that I understand. You have a Mazda 626 with the problem of the transmission not shifting into gear? And is due to the shift cable coming off at the transmission shift lever, found under the hood located on the left side near the fire wall? If so, the problem is the same as I encountered. Initially to make mine work, I took ahold of the end of the shift cable and spun it 180 degrees, which caused it to lay tightly against the shift lever on the transmission. At that point there was nothing holding it securely other than the force of being rotated. I then took it to my local Transmission shop and he figured out some sort of retainer(that he made up himself) and unrotated my cable and reattached it to the transmission shift lever, all for no cost. Even if you needed to pay to have this done, any local, decent repair shop should be able to make a repair for a minimal amount, say 40.00 or less. I have said a lot, and hope somehow this helps.
  • cgarcia1cgarcia1 Member Posts: 1
    :) Thank you so much for that info 5ddjjh! I am going to get that fixed today! I have to tow it to the shop so I guess there goes 50bucks already! Hopefully I dont get ripped off!!! ouch!
  • alanbiogenalanbiogen Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 626 4 cyl auto transmission as well. I am having the exact same problem. I replaced the transmission, the O2 sensors, the Max Air Flow sensor, installed a TransGo shift kit, installed a Hayden heavy duty transmission cooler, replaced the speed sensor, had the computer flashed to update the code, replaced both CV joint transaxles and it still has the same problem as the one you are describing. I just ordered a used PCM (computer) and a throttle position sensor.

    Other than a manual lever position sensor (transmisson gear sensor) I don't know what else there is to do.

    What is a transmission range switch?

    Did you ever solve your problem? If so, how?

    I am desperate. Please email me at alan at alancox dot name.

  • orionfeorionfe Member Posts: 4
    1998 626 LX, V-6 that shifts fine through first and second but then doesn't go to third. It's like you knocked into neutral. Internal or something else?
  • bass_boxbass_box Member Posts: 1
    i have a mazda 626 es 2000 i drove it to my friends house 1300 miles away from were i lived and the trans. messed up and i ended up drivein 600+ miles on it in 3rd or atleast 400 miles like that till it started to shift agian.... im in middle of replaceing trans.. and my problem is the torch converter dosent line up right... what could be wrong... is it keyed? to were it only lines up a sertian way..need to know befor i return it and try and rebuild my trans.. cuz i dont know how to realy repair it jest how to change parts out... :confuse:
  • raphaoraphao Member Posts: 1
    Hi i have the same problem, did you found what was wrong>???

    pls replie at, [email protected]
  • mlbscoutingmlbscouting Member Posts: 1
    My 2000 Mazda 626 engine light was on and the gears began to shift differently(slight slipping). I took it to AutoZone for a diagnosis and it came up with the code P0715(Turbine shaft speed sensor). I purchased a sensor and had it installed by a local mechanic. The car then drove perfectly fine. The next day, the engine light was back on as soon as I pulled out of the driveway. The gears also began to slip again. I then took the car to Mazda and they diagnosed the same exact code, but suggested that I may need a new transmission. Is it possible that the sensor that was replaced could have malfunctioned, since it did not come from Mazda? If I put in a sensor from Mazda, will that be the trick? It drove perfectly fine the day that it was replaced. Is there a way to turn out the annoying engine light?
  • backybacky Twin CitiesMember Posts: 18,946
    One thing to consider... when I bought my 2000 626 I4 AT a few years ago, it exhibited similar symptoms. The dealer's service manager recommended installing a transmission cooler, said that often took care of the problem. Cost about $200 installed back then. Have not had any transmission problems since then, although the fluid was pretty dark after only about 15k I had put on it so I had the fluid flushed recently. Don't know if that would fix your problem, but you might want to ask about it as an option to a tranny replacement--a lot cheaper!
  • avalanche1962avalanche1962 Member Posts: 1
    My 626 won't turn over but has full electrical power. My first thought was starter or alternator, but when looking the engine over I noticed two wires sticking out of the bottom of the car and one of them was disconnected. They connect to what I think is the transmission pan. It looks similar to a oil temperature sensor except the wires connected to posts on top as if they were molded into the plastic. Could this be some kind of sensor that would prevent the engine from even trying to start?
  • galaxy61zgalaxy61z Member Posts: 1
    My wife's car; it ran great, reved fine, no mobility, little at first, then none. A transmission line was leaking (the one that takes fluid into the radiator. I replaced that. the car has been parked since july 2006. We got married on July 29th and had other things to do. The car still runs fine and looks good. It will move but only when reved high, and then it only crawls. should I drain the fluid at replace the filter? or... (any suggestions are welcomed). Im sorry to say, she is now deceased.

  • ronperronper Member Posts: 1
    I have a Mazda 626 1993 model 4cyl Auto transmission car.

    Since of late, when I want to indicate to turn left or right, it takes a few minutes before it starts to flash. On hot days it flashes OK.

    I also find that when the hazard warning is switched on, the indicatoir lights flash normally.
    Any ideas about this problem?
  • dante007dante007 Member Posts: 1
    hello, i also have the same problem (2000 626 LX). my mazda will shift around 5000 rpms? can i replace the transmission fluid myself? How do i do this? Can anybody give me step by step procedures? I would like to know where is the speed sensor located? have you heard of the transmission fluid type M3? i was told that this needs to be used instead of the regular ATF?

    Please help, I AM DESPERATE AS WELL!
    e mail me @ [email protected] with your responses.

    Thank you
  • jiovanyjiovany Member Posts: 1
    A few months ago I spent a fortune changing the transmission on my Mazda 626 model 97,I dont really use a lot this car , a few months ago suddenly the car didn't start , so a friend put a wire between the battery and the starter, and the engine turn on like regular , but regardless if you put on P,N,R or D the car only runs on D , and since then this is the only way to turn on and run the car I'm almost sure that is something simple but i dont want to take the risk to pay another fortune, can you help me on getting an idea about what could be possible wrong?

    Thanks and please address your answer to [email protected]
  • tazd23tazd23 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 mazda 626 and have the trans. cooler on it already and it works great but i just recently put a trans tune product in form autozone and my overdrive light started flashing but it sifts and runs normal. what should i do?
  • bt100bt100 Member Posts: 3
    I Own a 1998 Mazda 626 lx V6 automatic, I just purchased it 3 months ago in what I thought was great shape.. It has now began to have many different issues. First the check engine light stays on, then the RPM starts to go higher than before going up to 2500-3000 before switching. It felt like it was just delayed a few seconds more then normal. I then took it to mazda and they said the diagnostic was "PO400, EGR system flow malfuntion which may be plugged or open "was causing the engine light to stay on and that I need a new transmission to fix the gear switching issue. Now the brake light has started to come on when I stop, but the brakes are fine. Then I went to start it today and it felt like the starter was toast, (wasn't doing anything).........I tried it a few more times then it worked.....clearly alot of issues....can they all be related to the EGR valve? I really can't think about getting a transmission, and am needing some help with winter coming!!! Anyone???
  • FlashMagnuMFlashMagnuM Member Posts: 9
    So why is it happening only with Mazdas build until the year 2000? Are the ones from 2001/2002 having that cooler already installed? I was just curious, because I have a 2001 one and I want to check if I have that cooler.
  • blochbloch Member Posts: 2
    How do you know if you have the Mazda LA4A-EL or the GF4A-EL transmission
    the car is a 2.0L 16 valve DOHC and the trans started slipping and I was going to put new fluid and a new filter in it for my brother in law but it doesnt look like there is any way to drop a pan or get in side of the tranny

    the car is a 2000 626

    Any ideas Thanks
  • blochbloch Member Posts: 2
    I did some more reading and it seems all the 4 cylnders have the LA4A-EL and it looks like they are non serviceable maybe? at least for me I think to really fix the problem I will have to take it to a transmission place

    any ideas??
  • kfpflakfpfla Member Posts: 5
    I would avoid dropping the pan. I would also avoid power flushing the tranny fluid, as this can cause a lot more damage in the poorly designed Ford tranny's. :sick:

    What I strongly recommend is to add a Tranny Cooler, since the major reason the tranny fails in the first place is because of heat.

    Mazda was taken over by Ford in the late 90's, and used a whole bunch of Ford parts in the 626 line. What they put in the 626 was a poorly designed radiator, which in turn did a really bad job keeping the Tranny Fluid, which runs through the radiator (in a separate area) cool.

    Ford quielty changed the Radiator after 2001/2002 after they recieved a whole bunch of legal complaints. The problem almost became a recall issue, but, since the did not produce a whole bunch of 626 automatics (mostly Manual's) just fell short of the government taking legal action. :lemon:

    They told the dealers to simple replace the radiator and/or install an aux tranny cooler to fix the problem.

    So, as a 1998 626 owner with a tranny that slips, the best advice I can give is to slowly switch the tranny fluid to Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF, FOUR "4" quarts at a time.

    Search the internet for "How do I change the fluid in my CD4E?" for more details on doing a "MANUAL" flush of the tranny. It must be a Manual Flush to reduce stirring up the sludge and clogging the fillter (which is a simple screen).

    A Manual flush consists of jacking the car (on ramps) and disconnecting the return to the tranny, placing the end of the hose in a bucket.

    I recommend changing 4 quarts at a time, every few thousand at three equal intervals (Say every 3000 miles) untill most, if not all the fluid is Synthetic.

    You should notice a sligh difference the first 4 quarts (Less Harder Shifts), which will slowly (over the frist 1000 miles or so) loose it effectiveness as the tranny fluid in the torque convert mixes with the Synthetic.

    I got an extra 20,000 miles (so far) out of a tranny that was slipping and causing the fail safe mode to trigger since I added a Tranny Cooler and Manual Flushed the fluid to Synthetic.

    Hope this helps.
  • putteringputtering Member Posts: 17
    I have a 1990 626 DX 4 cylinder 2.2L, it has an auto trans in it. It never works quite right due to an oil pump which was subsequently re-designed after about 1995 I believe. Anyway, I serviced it by changing the fluid several times, and finally the fluid and FILTER, but also ADJUSTING THE BAND inside the pan when I did so. I also used a cleaning agent in the fluid for a while, but drained it in less than a few months, as transmission fluid cleaning agents DO damage seals as well as clutch bands, but can loosen deposits, which is good. There is one that is the safest to use called Trans Tune by Seafoam. After all of this, the transmission is noticably better, however, it still has intermittant issues due to the poor design of the oil pump, still, I would have had to get rid of the car if I hadn't done all of that to it. One problem is, the transmission pan is hard to remove on these cars(the crossmember has to come off, after disconnecting the balljoint) BAND ADJUSTMENT IS KEY IN OLDER CARS.
  • jasonulicnikjasonulicnik Member Posts: 1
    did u ever figure out problem with ur 626 slipping then after u cut it off and back on it goes again i have exact same problem please email me at [email protected] let me know i know its been a while thanks in advance
  • saj4922saj4922 Member Posts: 1
    can any one tell me if any other auto transmissions can go in a 1999 mazda 626 with a 2.0. I know some ford will fit some mazdas anyone know
  • johnr16johnr16 Member Posts: 14
    I have a 99 626 2 liter With the auto trans...99,000 on it..I really like this car a lot and want to keep it..The engine is tight as a drum..I use Pennzoil platinum 5W-30 and it doesn't use a drop between changes..I've upgraded to Bosch platinum 2 plugs and it runs well..But I am worried about the tranny..After all I've read about how bad this tranny is..Is there any way to keep it alive..I've pulled the drain plug and the fluid is dark but didn't smell burned.It appears that I can only change about three and a half quarts at a time..I would like to replace all of the fluid with synthetic and put some pro-long in it..There have been no real problems so far, although the od light has flashed on occasion..Any suggestions..???
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