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Mazda 626 Transmission Questions

I am planning to buy a 2002 mazda 626 with 60000 miles but I
after reading forums I noticed many 626 mazda had transmission problems.

Please advice me whether is worth to buy it.

Thanks in advance


  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    I assume the car you want to buy has an auto tranmsission. If yes, the V6 car auto transmissions are much better units than the troublesome Ford unit used on the 4 cylinder versions. 5 speed manual transmission is the best choice for all mazda 626 cars./
  • I think my auto transmission is shot on my 1998 Mazda 626 LX with 163,000 miles on it. I did replace a Speed Sensor and a Velocity Sensor about 5,000 & 10,000 miles ago when I thought I was having transmission problems at that time....but the sensor replacements made my problems disappear. Other than the transmission the car is in great shape, inside & out. Is it worth putting a junk yard transmission into it for $1,200 or having a rebuilt transmission for around $2,000 put into it. I don't know how long these Mazda 626's go for mileage wise? Coincidentally, 10 days before I had transmission problems, I ran over a dead deer (it had just been hit) and I had to straddle it and it rumbled under the car. Could the deer have caused something to break in the transmission?
    Any help or guidance would be apprectiated. Thanks, Rich
  • misticmindmisticmind Posts: 3
    I would never buy another automatic transmission for Mazda - especially the 4 cyl. Do you know that Mazda does not even open their own transmissions - they order a used one. This shows how confident they are with their transmissions.
  • misticmindmisticmind Posts: 3
    My suggestion would be to stay away from junkyards - after paying $625 for a used one and $400 to have it installed finding out it did not work was totally frustrating. I got my $625 back - but loss the $400. Same as the diagnosis test done at Mazda last week cost me $300 instead of $79.95 as the mechanic had to do all these tests and take it out for a test drive - the hours were counted and I had to pay to find out it was the transmission - and after all that - transmission is ok - it was the Transmission Range Switch which needed to be changed. Not my month..... I am keeping it because I do not owe anything on it - but I will not put the amount of money into the car like I just did.
  • ashleydw85ashleydw85 Posts: 6
    my car crapped out on me. does anyone know what would cause it to not go in reverse without having to take it to the dealership? I think the transmission filter is clogged. But everyone tells me it's a non-serviceable transmission and that I have to take it to a dealership but I don't want to pay that much. anyone have any suggestions? :confuse:
  • ashleydw85ashleydw85 Posts: 6
    Does anyone know what would cause it to not go into reverse? Everywhere I call says it's a non-serviceable transmission and that I have to take it to a transmission shop. If anyone knows how I could fix it without going to the dealer or a shop, please let me know.
  • well what what i seen in my time as having one is reverse is a gear and sometimes gears are worn. i have seen people just drive frontwards because of it to keep from buying another transmission.
  • i have a problem my over drive light comes on and off but i fixed the wirering the first time and it worked. but no when it gets hot it starts to slip .
  • Wow sounds like what I have thanks for sharing with the group,
    How much was the Transmission Range Switch?
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    The right thing to buy in these cars is a manual transmission. The one in my '99 ES V6 has been absolutely bulletproof - still performing like new at 176k miles.
  • do not do it we have a 2000 626 transmission went out before 60;000 miles
  • elrlawelrlaw Posts: 20
    Clutch has seemingly failed at about 145,000. It failed at about 90,000 and had it replaced for $900. New mechanic in new city wants $450 to take apart transmission which he says has to be done anyway to replace clutch and then about another $750 to replace clutch. Does this make sense? Can the trans fail but not the clutch? Why not just replace the clutch? Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks.
  • Hi, all-
    Please, can someone can offer some insight as to whether my ex-wife’s 626 transmission is shot, or not?
    She has the ’96 626, 2.0 4 cyl, auto- (I took a look under it, and there isn’t a bottom pan for the trans, the pan is upright on the side. Is this the CD4E?)

    What it’s doing is this:
    Crank it, hot or cold, put it in any gear, and it pulls normally for 30 or 40 yards, and then the transmission starts slipping bad, then no pull at all. The engine just revs (sort of like it’s real low on fluid). You can stop and put it in any gear, and it won't pull at all.

    But- I found if you turn off the engine for just 5 seconds, then crank it again and put it in any gear, it will pull strong and normally-- for 30 or 40 yards, until it slips again.

    I checked the trans fluid level, and it’s risen above the normal range where it was recently when I checked, and now shows as overfull on the dipstick, like an inch and a half past the don't add mark.
    The fluid does look a bit dark, not real red, but doesn’t really smell burnt to me. There’s 140,000 miles on the car.

    At first I thought the transmission was shot, but the way it pulls strong after the engine’s off for a few seconds has me mystified.

    Can anyone please say what might be happening here, and whether it’s worth it to try changing the filter and fluid?
    All help very much appreciated!

    Thank you-
    Alex B
    PS- Now I see that the filter is deep inside this transmission-- dang.
  • The car jerks when it get hot and intermittantly shifts. Diagnosis show bad trans range switch. for $300. and they would fix and maybe that would fix problem. Does anyone know what indicated a bad trans range switch or could it be another sensor. You have to go at least 50 miles over 60mpm on hwy before it happens.
    Thanks Ernie
  • would like to know if you found the problem. my daughter's 1995 626 transmission went out with no warning. The car will not go forward or reverse.
  • from the sounds of it i'm having the same problem as a few others. 2000 mazda 626 4 cyl. auto transmission. my transmission will shift out of overdrive and back into over drive rather hard when i'm maintaining speed of about 50-60 miles an hour. if i take over drive off and slow down to about 40-45 the problem goes away for a little bit but it'll start doing it again after driving around for a while. the problem doesnt happen untill the car gets warm and has been driven for about 20-30 min. the check engine light came on and i had them read the code and it came back trans range switch output high.i went to the dealer ship and paid and ordered the transmission range switch so i'm hoping that it'll fix it. does any one have any advice or helpfull tips for installing that switch. i'm a back yard mechanic and don't have a lot of fancy tools but it's my only car and i need this problem fixed. please let me know if you guys can think of anything helpful to me. thank you guys
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,910
    One thing to consider is, if your car doesn't have an auxiliary transmission cooler, add one. It's about $200 installed by a Mazda dealer (maybe less if elsewhere?). I had one installed on my 2000 626 4AT when I bought it over 2 years ago, on the dealer's recommendation. The car shifted poorly and the check engine light came on. Since the cooler was installed I've had zero problems with the tranny.
  • frank78frank78 Posts: 2
    Ok here is my problem i have a 1995 626 lx with a 2.0 and a cd4e tranny when i start the car or anytime for that matter and put it into drive with the overdrive on it does not go into drive with out giving it some throttle if i turn the overdrive off and put it into drive it will jump into drive after a few seconds of waiting if i am driving down the road going about 20 and turn the overdrive on it jumps out of gear i turn the od back off and it goes back into gear anyone have any comments to make as to what it may be the car has 172000km on it and no after market tranny cooler
  • frank78frank78 Posts: 2
    Forgot to add if i have the overdrive on and force it to drive by giving it gas the overdrive off light will start blinking and if i am driving down the road with the overdrive on and come to a stop it will jump out of gear when i get to about 5 km/hour
    my wife also added the radiator fan seems to be coming on alot more than it used to
  • Hello Ernie,

    One quick question: Does the O/D light Flash when on extended highway trips?

    If it does, you may have a "known" Mazda Service Issue. My 1998, Mazda 626 LX 4 cyl 2.0 had a very similar issue that happened only after driving at highway speeds for about an 70 minutes.

    I spoke with a guy who rebuilds these transmissions. He said that when the O/D light "flashes", it is caused by a malfunction within the computer or a minor defect in the transmission.

    When the light goes on, it enters a Fail-Safe mode… (the EPC solenoid opens up and brings line pressure up to 'max') ... the only catch is it raises the fluid pressure well beyond normal specs (it goes from 100 to 400 PSI).

    It is at this time where you get your major failures. (Mazda switched the Automatic 626 to OBD II around the 1996 model year, so if you have a '96 or later, you'll need a full-fledged OBD II-compatible scan tool.)

    A Mazda Technical Service Bulletin exists for some 1999-2001 models. TSB 05-005/02 deals with one specific circumstance: "After extended highway driving, the O/D off light is blinking and code P1783 is set (excessive ATF temperature). Occasionally there will be overflow through the dipstick tube and harsh shifting. Mazda's recommended fix is to replace the radiator and to install an auxiliary cooler for the transmission."

    It sure can not hurt to tell your mechanic to examine the Mazda Technical Service Bulletin 05-005/02. Keep in mind that once your car goes in safe mode, your transmission fluid will get burnt up real fast. A transmission cooler cost about 40-50 bucks, and will extend the life of the poorly designed Mazda/Ford transmission. You will need to replace your transmission fluid during the install (if burnt) and read the directions on the cooler to adapt for any additional fluid.

    Search on the internet for a Hayden Transmission Cooler, either Hayden 404 or Hayden 679... I prefer Hayden 404 because it has bigger piping than the 679 which doesn't restrict tranny fluid flow (Some use B&M Super Coolers).

    Some people also recommend going with a synthetic transmission fluid (Supertech 2000 synthetic fluid for cheaper alternative).

    Some people have also claimed that by using Honda's transmission fluid (Dexron I instead of Mazda's Dexron III). The thicker Honda Fluid w/ Honda's special additives have caused a rebirth to their Mazda transmissions.

    You can also consider installing a Tranny Temp Gauge so that you can see the difference the cooler makes (and know when to stop prior to an transmission overheat.)

    I would recommend printing out this and showing it to a trusted mechanic.

    Good Luck
  • I have a 2002 Mazda 626 been driving it a year the car runs great,but the other day the car started jerking felt like the transmission.The Overdrive light comes on evevery time it jerks could someone please help me.
  • it was suggested that i check for ablown fuse in my 99 mazda 626 w/ auto trans. the car suddenly quit shifting into gear and a check of the fluid reveals it is up to level and not burned. when you start the engine, the fluid level drops, indicating that the pump is functioning. My questions are 1. if there is a blown fuse, where is it located? 2. if not a blown fuse, where would the module be located that affects shifting?
  • I have a 2000 mazda 626 that starts just fine but when put into any gear (even neutral) will not move at all, wont roll, wont go anywhere. Any ideas what it might be? Thanks! Marsha
  • Marsha,

    My daughter has a 99 626 automatic and it suddenly quit moving when you shift it into any posistion. In this case, it turned out to be simple. The transmission shift cable came loose at the transmission. It appeared to have lost some sort of retainer that attaches the cable to the shift lever on the transmission. It was a cheap and easy fix. Good luck

  • boat8boat8 Posts: 2
    I have the same problem,,,would you please tell me what the outcome was,,and the cost ?
  • boat8boat8 Posts: 2
    Where is the filter located,,,and can a home repair mechanic replace it easily ?
  • 5ddjjh5ddjjh Posts: 4
    Let me make sure that I understand. You have a Mazda 626 with the problem of the transmission not shifting into gear? And is due to the shift cable coming off at the transmission shift lever, found under the hood located on the left side near the fire wall? If so, the problem is the same as I encountered. Initially to make mine work, I took ahold of the end of the shift cable and spun it 180 degrees, which caused it to lay tightly against the shift lever on the transmission. At that point there was nothing holding it securely other than the force of being rotated. I then took it to my local Transmission shop and he figured out some sort of retainer(that he made up himself) and unrotated my cable and reattached it to the transmission shift lever, all for no cost. Even if you needed to pay to have this done, any local, decent repair shop should be able to make a repair for a minimal amount, say 40.00 or less. I have said a lot, and hope somehow this helps.
  • :) Thank you so much for that info 5ddjjh! I am going to get that fixed today! I have to tow it to the shop so I guess there goes 50bucks already! Hopefully I dont get ripped off!!! ouch!
  • I have a 2000 626 4 cyl auto transmission as well. I am having the exact same problem. I replaced the transmission, the O2 sensors, the Max Air Flow sensor, installed a TransGo shift kit, installed a Hayden heavy duty transmission cooler, replaced the speed sensor, had the computer flashed to update the code, replaced both CV joint transaxles and it still has the same problem as the one you are describing. I just ordered a used PCM (computer) and a throttle position sensor.

    Other than a manual lever position sensor (transmisson gear sensor) I don't know what else there is to do.

    What is a transmission range switch?

    Did you ever solve your problem? If so, how?

    I am desperate. Please email me at alan at alancox dot name.

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