Hyundai Azera Electrical Questions
I've owned my 2006 Azera Limited for two months, but it's mostly been at the dealership for a mysterious electrical problem. If the car sits for more than 5-6 days, the battery is as dead as can be. The dealership found no problems and finally replaced the battery. After 8 days of non-use, everything's dead again. The Hyundai mechanics are at a total loss as everything tests okay. They are asking corporate for an "expert" to help out. I don't even have over 200 miles on this car. Does anyone have any ideas? I've suggested a faulty alternator diode or computer, but testing shows everything positively in acceptable condition. Do I have a lemon? Any suggestions?
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Demanding a different car will raise a stink and maybe get them on it for a fix.
We've had no problems with our 2006 Azera w/8000 miles so far.
Don
The Lemon Law varies from state to state.
I believe that most statutes require you to have had 3 documented services for the same problem without success.
That problem should be easily corrected by a tech who has average electrical skills.
If there is a power draw when the ignition is off, other than the small amount necessary to power security system and clock/computer memory it can be detected with a simple multi meter.
(I'd be tempted to take a bet that during pre-delivery someone at the dealership jumped the battery for a hotshot without pulling the battery's negative lead first.)
If your Hyundai dealer hooked the car into their computer, all of that information would be immediately displayed.
If they haven't, you might consider going to another Hyundai dealer for warranty service.
My sons car had a short in the power window switch when he activated the window. Not enough to blow the fuse but enough to drain the battery over several days. This short was in miliamps or lower, everything tested normal.
The tech needs to check the car for a positive ground vs. a negative ground, one strand on stranded wire could be the culpret.
Good luck
As far as their troubleshooting is concerned, they feel that since the problem is electrical, the computer wouldn't be operational to have recorded any codes. But, they checked it anyway, and nothing showed. No lights are on (trunk etc.) but I did notice once that the dome light came on and then went off for no apparent reason. Also, once when driving, the rear sunshade raised into position all by itself. The techs are aware of these things. Countless multimeter checks show no questionable current drainage, other than minimal draw from the clock, theft deterent system etc. For some reason ,they've eliminated the alternator diodes from the possibilities.
More information later as it becomes available.
I'm surprised that the anti theft system would arm without that bumper. Wouldn't the computer "think " that the hood was open?
If so, that does make sense and I never would have thought to even look there :confuse:
Looking forward to hearing that this did, indeed, correct your problem. Had a similar problem with a Ford (I know it's a FORD and you don't have to say it) 1999 Windstar. After multiple trips to the dealership about every 4-5 months with no fix in sight...I just got rid of it.
Thanks for the info. I have same problem with my Chrysler Seebring. I will now look to see if there is a similar switch, athough my anti theft works fine.
Yes!
How does one obtain one?
Has anyone heard of this problem?
I would assume that the dealership checked the harness from the passenger seat.
As the passenger side airbag is deployed only when the passenger seat sensor indicates more than a set weight on the seat cushion, I would check to assure that the harness connector is secure.
If it is secure, the dealership could and should run a computer check on the system.
The other problem would be the seat bottom is bad, however you have to go through the whole list of codes before getting a new seat bottom.
TSB 07-90-008
JULY, 2007
AZERA (ALL) & VERACRUZ (ALL)
INCREASED CURRENT DRAW ON AZERA AND
VERACRUZ VEHICLES WITH HOOD OPEN
This bulletin is provided for informational purposes on normal vehicle operation.
DESCRIPTION:
Opening the hood on Azera and Veracruz vehicles will ground the security system’s hood input switch. Grounding the hood input switch places the security system module (incorporated into the BCM) into a readiness standby mode. While in standby mode, the BCM consumes an increased amount of current that may discharge the vehicle battery if the hood is left open for several hours or overnight.
Displaying or Storing the Vehicle
To avoid discharging the battery while displaying the vehicle on a showroom floor (hood open), a self-regulating automatic trickle charge may be connected to the vehicle battery. If the vehicle is to be left parked with the hood open and accessory power is not required, the Power Connector on the interior fuse panel should be removed.
Another annoying thing that happens is that sometimes when the car won't start, the Trip Meter zeroes out! Now, this car not starting problem occurs once in a while & the trip meter zeroing when it doesn't start happens even infrequently
http://www.autoblog.com/2008/04/16/hyundai-recalling-nearly-400-000-sonatas-to-c- heck-seat-sensor/
Now, although it is for Sonata & doesn't mention Azera, since Azera is built on Sonata platform & shares a large number of components, it might apply to you too.
Check with your dealership & Hyundai corporate
1. Does the single red wire contain only the positive wire, or is somehow the ground wire also part of that red wire?
2. What kind of female connector is on the end of that red wire? And what kind of male connector is required to connect into it? What tools/supplies/directions would be needed for installing the right connectors needed?
I have a GPS unit and radar detector to hard wire and neither have the type of connector that would fit into the end of the red wire on the Add-A-Circuit.
Thanks in advance for any advice and assistance or even to be pointed in right direction for this information.
Bud H
thanks!
anyone have solutions?
I finally have an answer!! My Hyundai dealership in Peoria, Az really tries to give top notch customer service. If I understand correctly; under the steering wheel cover is an antenna that relates to the key and therein lies the problem. The part is on order and should be here in about a week. I love my Azera and that was the only complaint I have had. This would be a customer appreciation repair and not cost any $$$ from my end. I also needed to have a bearing on my rear shade screen replaced several months ago (I do use it allot) and although out of warranty; the dealership split the cost with me so the cost was minimal.
I hope this will help others who might have the same concern.
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f144bd7/523!keywords=allin%3Amsgte- xt%20limit%3AHyundai%3AAzera%20rubber#MSG523
If it's a dying battery problem, there are six places where the security system might see a problem; four door switches, a trunk switch and the hood switch.
But you can eliminate all of these as a cause if you get a "beep" and a parking light flash when you use the remote to lock up. Point being, you don't get the beep-flash if the alarm system isn't happy because a switch is not made...