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Ford F-Series Stalling and No Start Problems

This truck is a 2000 model with the Triton V10, automatic transmission and only has 40,000.00 miles. Recently, while coming to a stop. The truck seems to lunge forward and stalls. The only way to get out of the situation is to put the truck in neutral, start it up and put it into drive. This will continue for a few times, but then goes away for days/weeks at a time. I’ve taken it to the Ford dealership, but they were not able to find anything wrong. I’m hoping that someone else might have had this type of issue before, so I can give a better explanation to the dealership to get it fixed. The feeling is similar when coming to a stop with a manual transmission and not pushing in the clutch.
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Comments

  • Don't have any hints for you. How about the IAC (Idle Air Control) Valve. Sounds like it could be plugging up and causing the truck to stall at idle. When they're just starting to fail you get flakey behavior for a while, then it starts getting worse.

    If it isn't the IAC, then it could be the tranny. Just wondering if it would be better to take it a dedicated transmission shop instead of the dealer?
  • Thanks for the reply. I’ve been on a few forums trying to get some information. This definitely helps. I can look into it. I’m trying to isolate the issue a bit before going to a dedicated tranny shop, but that option has come up.

    Thanks again for the reply. I will give an update once I find out what the issue is.
  • help!!
    Mother has a 2005 ford 150 lariat. Engine dies. Auto fail safe light comes on. Has it at ford dealer, $500.00 plus dollars and they still can not find problem. Truck keeps dying on her. They have changed the crank shaft sensor, admission sensor, and both catalytic convertors.
  • jlg5jlg5 Posts: 1
    I have the same truck except 2001. I also have had the truck lunge forward when coming to a stop. I have also had the truck stall on acceleration a few times then it's O.K. for a week or so. What did you find was causing your problem? When mine stalls it cranks but wont start untill I turn the key to off, wait about 5 seconds then it starts right up and runs fine.Any Ideas??
  • onebigdogonebigdog Posts: 1
    1999 F250 7.3L 132000 Miles started getting a problem 3 or 4 weeks ago. I was driving in town at 30 mph puled up to a stop light and then when I started to move the truck just died. It restarted after setting for several minutes and I drove it home (over 20 miles) without a problem. The same thing happened again the next week under the same conditions. Then I was driving on the freeway at 60mph and it stopped again, I was able to restart it, it would run for a few miles and then stop. This has pledged me every time I take out the truck. If I let the truck set for several minutes it restarts and runs fine for a few miles and then stops.

    Had diagnose ran on truck computer no codes ever come back, but check engine light does come on, I have changed the fuel filter and air filter.

    I read that it can be a cam position sensor, my mechanic and auto parts store suggested I have something in the tank or that I should replace the high-pressure fuel pump. This could bleed my wallet, please help.
  • pdesautelpdesautel Posts: 5
    I have a 1985 F-150 same problem. Fuel pumps O.K.,Ign.module replaced,still no luck. Searching earlier this morning I saw someone one this website who replaced his coil and problem ceased. This problem will get continuously worse.
  • whitallwhitall Posts: 190
    I have a way different vehicle, but wonder if it's the same problem. My 2001 Taurus stalled yesterday. First it stalled when it was put into drive (in a parking lot). It stalled twice and went the third try. A little while later is stalled when pulling out after stopping for a traffic light. It restarted and was fine the rest of the day.

    2 weeks ago it also stalled in a parking lot. My son said he has to put it into Reverse before Drive, and then it didn't stall. That was twice in one night, then nothing until yesterday. DOes this sound like what yours did? What was the diagnosis?
  • kwabelsrkwabelsr Posts: 1
    I have a F-250 diesel, 2006 model with 36000 miles. The first problem was the cruise control. When pushing the coast button it would accelerate. Had it in for repairs and thought it was fixed. Now when I drive for about 2 hours, turn the engine off, turn it back on after a few minutes it will be hard to start and sometimes will not accelerate when stepping on the gas pedal. I have taken it in 3 times. They changed the throttle sensor but each time it does not mess up for them and the computer does not read any bad codes. Any solutions?
  • fff1fff1 Posts: 2
    Good Luck !!
    I had a 2002, F250 4x4 deisel. (The truck was new too) Same problem for months. Stop and stall, stop and stall, Dealer checked 7, yes 7 times and couldn't find the problem. Almost got killed twice. Even placed a Flight Recorder on the computer. When the problem occurred I would activate the recorder. Dealer still couldn't find the problem. (no codes would ever show) Finally pushed the lemon law on them and they refused. Got an attorney. Ford finally gave us ALL of our money back and paid attorney fees.
  • fff1fff1 Posts: 2
    P.S.
    Ford also denied ever hearing of this problem before, Stalling or lunging, As you can see it seems rather common.
    I wish you all the best and be careful. It was a real pain for us to finally get rid of that LEMON
  • dptyfoxdptyfox Posts: 1
    Replace the torque converter stall selenoid. (located in transmission pan) this will cause it to stall when stopping, but it will not stall in reverse. it's only a $65.00 part and you may as well change fluid and filter while your down there.

    Fox
  • whitallwhitall Posts: 190
    Interesting that you said that about the torque converter. My friend said it could be the torque converter was (or wasn't??) locking up. He said it might be getting stuck sometimes. Is that what you mean?

    It hasn't happened lately, but I did go to Ford. They did their "diagnostic" Claim to have checked the torque converter and did whatever it is they do. They found the IAC (idle air) was gummy and the duty cycle was at 58% which is high. I am replacing that today.

    Will keep your suggestion in mind if it happen after the IAC is changed.

    I can't do much repairs myself, so I bet that $65 part will be a lot to have done......
  • 4kgst4kgst Posts: 1
    ok i have a friend who has a 97 f250 that wont start it isnt the gloplugs, does anyone know how the ignition system works because it has a wiring harness in the valve cover gasket.
  • I have a 96 F150 with the 5.0 (302) xlt extended cab 4x4. I love this truck but have just had a recent problem. Going down the interstate at about 65mph and start to accelerate right when it goes to downshift and speed up it dies, been noticing within the last few weeks when it downshifts that the battery/alternator light comes on then goes off when it upshifts again. So I get it towed back to my house pull one of the sparkplugs out ground it to the block and no fire/spark when trying to crank, so i pull the distributor cap and notice that the rotor metal contact is broken off, so I figure easy fix new distributor cap and rotor, but no I replaced them still no spark, replaced ignition coil, checked ground wires, bypassed fusible ground link to ignition coil, still no fire, and about five hours after this happened when i decided to give up for the afternoon and sleep it off/getting dark I notice the running lights and dash lights are on and wont go off. Any suggestions on how to fix my truck and get it back on the road? Oh and by the way it has a factory keyless entry/alarm maybe something in that may be a problem? Thats one of the only things I can come up with.
  • you can order a electrical book for ford that will give you all the connectors and wiring for your truck it cost about 40 bucks its a real handy tool to use when working with that
  • Same EXACT thing on my truck. Same EXACT truck. I had my friend figure it out when dealership could not. The speed sensor!
  • Hi everyone
    i have a huge problem on my truck
    it is a disel f250 and when i start it up it makes lots of smoke and after that i find fule in my oil pin
    any ideas???
  • the button on my 02 F-250 for my overdrive wont work any ideas?
  • F150 5.4 2wd 65500 miles. This afternoon idle went completely away had to fast idle with foot and or power brake to get home. Later this pm truck starts and runs with idle. Not brave enough to test drive this evening pouring rain and miserable conditions. Vehicle has always idled roughly after about 20k and valve noise.
  • i have a 1999 ford f150 that will not start the key will turn but have to use a screwdriver and touch the 2 cylenoid post and it is sounding like it is not gettting fuel and i think the wires in the ignition switch are not touching. would that cause the antitheft system to block the fuel off from the engine?
  • My uncle has an 04 150 XLT auto 4x4 w/5.4 litre triton that has on several occasions stalled while driving down the road and come to a complete stop. this is very dangerous, when he attempts to restart, all warning lights come on and you can hear selenoids clicking on the left side of the vehicle cabin. The vehicle refuses to start and he has to have it towed. Then without notice or repair, the vehicle acts normal. Note; there is a full tank of gas when this seems to happen.
  • brochabrocha Posts: 1
    my f250 will start fine when its cold but if i run it 10min. or 3 hours and shut it off it wont start untill its cold again does any one have an idea what cause this [diesel engine]
  • ut90u54ut90u54 Posts: 1
    had battery, alternator, starter checked. batt.& alt good, replaced starter. Vehicle started fine drove to store and back turned off and has NOT started since. Had new starter rechecked-good. Replace starter relay. Still will not start. all wire and connections are good. Starter hums but vehicle will not crank.Vehicle ran good just days ago.??Please help!
  • nydiaknydiak Posts: 1
    Super Duty F350 Diesel Flat Bed Truck

    Starts and idels fine but when you put it in drive it will not move and the instrument cluster dies.
    Looked at the book and found Fuse 19 which is for:
    Auxiliry Powertrain Control Module, Instrument Cluster, Overdrive Cancel Switch, Idle validation switch, overhead console, Diesel PCM via Clutch

    I've changed the fuse 3 times and everytime it starts up good instrument pannel work but when I put it on drive or reverse the instrument pannel dies and when you give it gas it wont move.

    Can anyone advice PLEASE????
  • bills6bills6 Posts: 1
    95 7.3 powerstroke. truck starts good cold runs perfect all day long. shut the truck off when up to running temp will not start. will crank forever shoot it with a little either truck will start at running temp and run fine. changed the cam sensor twice still same problem. I have twin trucks with same problem please help.
  • my truck started ruff last time started it, was in a field (ruff) turned it off will not restart. cannot find the fuelpump reset switch. ran 1 tank low day before on a trip, finished trip bout 200 miles, truck ran ok then when got to destination startred problem.please any ideas?
  • error in post >> truck cranks, will not start,cannot hear fuel pump running. ty please help
  • dgoodendgooden Posts: 1
    i have same problem please email me if you have found a resolution my dealer has had it 6 days i keep replacing 30 amp fuses sometimes they last 7 days sometimes 30 sec [email protected]
  • i own a f350 i had surging problems ford dealer said tranny was complely shot ????i drove it up to lac la biche and 110km i passed a car 140km i had no problem they said never heard of a surging problem and replaced 2 solenoids ????? so now what do i do
    thanks
  • it is most likely the EGR Valve - had 2 replaced while under warranty and started doing it again this week - and they are not cheap -$330 w/ hour of labor- keep an eye on your front wheel bearing they do not hold up either
  • my 04 f150 fx4 will fire up but will not stay running. after repeated tries...it has started....idles...but no throughtall response! also has completly shut down while driving. and then same symtoms. have had a wrench like symbol apear on dash when no gas pedal response. then all of a sudden a new try to start.....every thing is normal .problem is increasing latley...don't want to get stranded!
  • hi. i have the same start/ stalling symtoms. did you get yours fixed? what was the problem? i have had it also start... and get no response from the gas pedal. only idle.
  • I have a 1984 Ford F-250 with a 460. Duel tanks.
    I have had the carb rebuilt, full tune-up and it still needs to have the accelerator pumped and takes about 5 minutes to cold start. No starting problems when warmed up.
    After shut off there is a strong fuel smell but no detectable leaks.
    I have heard that this year had problems with the duel tank models.
    Suggestions???
  • Truck was not started for 3 weeks--several nights with temps in the 20's. When attempting to start after the lapse in time --would not start and the check gauge with battery symbol illuminated. I currently have trickle charge going. Will switch to other battery after charging current one.
  • I have the same problem without the smell of gas. I think the problem may be the vacume high idle . My truck is missing the vacume tubes to the dashpot on the carb. You may have two problems. maybe a leaking fuel hose , as I had one of those too.
  • The fuel tank selector valve on my 1984 F-150 had rusted through and sprung a leak and was dripping gas in two spots. A mechanic replaced it with a new selector valve + a fuel line and clamp for 180 dollars. The selector valve cost $96.95 and the fuel line was $20.00. The selector valve for the fuel tanks is under the front door of the driver side and mounted on the frame on the inside and has the fuel lines connected to it. What happen is that I filled the rear tank full of gas and the pressure of the gas from the tank broke the rusted valve and caused a leak. I had to keep a small bucket under the truck for two nights and it leaked about quart of gas every 4 hours. I don't think the previous owners had used the rear tank very much. Check under your truck to see how the valve looks. As long as you can get gas from the front tank you should be good to go. I don't suggest toggling it too much and if you use the rear tank remember too fill it half way or it could spring a leak if its old and rusted and hasn't been in use much. This is possibly where the smell of the gas might be coming from. A mechanic can look at it for free and I hope this story perks you up to a much slept-over part of the truck that doesn't get inspected much.
  • I had the same problem on my 2001 F250 Super Duty. I live in Utah and what a surprise it was to me when my instrument Cluster went out and the gas pedal did not work while I was driving down a mountain. I replaced 3 fuses and then took it to the dealership. Found out one of the wires that was in the engine compartment that went through the firewall and into the fuse box had a nick in it and whenever it got wet it would short out everything. I fixed the wire and have not had the problem since.
  • Came home from work one day with my 1997 Ford F250 diesel. I pulled into my driveway and out of the blue the truck died. I tried several times to start the truck but no luck. For some unknown reason my six port electric fuel pump is not receiving power. I replaced the electronic fuel pump, ECU computer and checked all fuses and relays, so far no luck! I tried looking for the fuel inertia switch but was said that my truck has none. I'am thinking it could be a sensor or a serious ignition problem. If anyone can help me with this problem I will be greatfull!!!
  • I have an 88 diesel f250 with a 7.3ltr NONturbo and I cant get it to even turn the engine over when i go to start it. I had it running fine 3 days later went to start it and it cranked a few times and then wouldint do anything. Now when i try it the ECU (i think thats what it is) clicks once and thats all.Tried jumping it and nothing happens, not any fusses blown, please someone help me out...Thanks
  • rcatrcat Posts: 1
    I have a triton engine in my truck, It sputters only going up an incline, it idols fine,it run good on the straight away. I have an ob2 scanner it said it was map and vaf had low voltage. I replaced it . The trucks runs great as long as you do not go up an incline. HELP!!!!
    rcat
  • I recently bought a 2000 f-250 7.3L diesel. Last night I went to start it and when I turned the ignition to start the entire truck went dead, No lights, no door locks nothing. The day before yesterday I had the truck's electrical system checked and it was fine. Anyone else had this problem and have suggestions on how to solve it?
  • I own a 1995 Ford F-250 power stroke diesel truck. The truck starts fine and run for two or three miles before stalling. The truck will restart but only after it has cooled down-The longer it has cooled down the longer it will run-but again only for two or three miles. The battery light was coming on in the dash so I had the alternator checked. It was declared bad so I replaced it with a new one. The battery light still comes on and the stalling continues. Any ideas as to what is going on?
    J
  • thankfulthankful Posts: 1
    In reference to problems with the 2001 F-250 Ford Truck with the 7.3 Power Stroke Diesel engine; our truck, after several years of dependable service, began to stall and shutdown while driving down the highway. Normally the truck would not start until it set a while, etc. (10, 15, 30 minutes) and sometimes for several hours or more. We noticed that the digital compass reading had been incorrect for several years, and possibly the digital fuel reading average for quite some time. To no good avail, Ford Motor Company replaced our truck’s Cam Shaft Sensor (CSS) under a product recall. Our truck still stalled as before. We replaced the Cam Shaft Sensor at least 2 more times ourselves hoping that this would help, but it continued to shut down. The truck would sometimes stall and shut down 2 or 3 times during a short drive. It would shut down in the city while coming off the interstate highway at idle speed and while driving full speed on a multi lane highway while being followed by heavy traffic causing them to suddenly swerve to another lane to avoid hitting our truck in the rear. The stalling and shutting down was such a problem even to the point of concern for our safety that we began to call on our wonderful Lord and Savior in prayer for direction. Our independent mechanic, who is a former Ford Factory trained mechanic and now an independent SAE Certified Mechanic, trouble shot our vehicle’s “shut down” symptoms and indicated that the next thing that he would do would be to replace the Power Train Control Module (PCM). We did not replace the PCM at that time since our truck temporarily started running without stalling. While we were subsequently researching the PCM’s functions, we learned that the PCM controls a number of other transistors such as the radio, etc. which would typically seem to be unrelated to the functions of strictly PCM. After a while, it appeared that the problem could be the computer (power train control module). We, thankfully found a rebuilt one through the internet for $349 plus shipping. We replaced the computer and also installed another new Ford Cam Shaft Sensor. We allowed the truck to set overnight with batteries charging before trying to start the engine. (Sometimes it seems that the vehicle’s system will lose its memory and that several hours may be needed to restore it.) Now the truck is running great! We appreciate the great advise we got from our mechanic and also ACE along with the much needed rebuilt computer. As always we are so thankful to the Lord for leading us in the right direction. It is such a blessing to have a great dependable truck again. We hope this will help someone else.
  • I have only had the truck for four weeks now and the first week it barely started this problem but has progressively gotten worse. It starts fine, takes off fine and is fine when you give it gas but when you get up to a desired speed and maintain that speed it starts stuttering or sputtering. This takes place only between around 1300 to 1700 RPMs. It basically acts as if you are one gear too high when it does this. The transmission checked out fine but the mechanic said that the following error codes showed up: P0476...Exhaust Pressure Control Valve Perform, P0541...Intake Air Heater Circuit Low, P1211...ICP Pressure Above/Below Desired. I have already had the cam sensor replaced based on a recent recall but that did not fix the problem. Any suggestions.
  • hi i have a 2004 f250 crew cab 4x4 6.0l diesel. i have a problem with the computer i took it to the ford dealer and they reprogramed a computer to the truck, cuz the other one was bad from the roll over it was in but it is like its not sync'd with the truck cuz u get nothing from the obd port when u plug in the tool, it started ran for a min then we stut it off abd nothing but had to jump it across the starter 4 it to do any thing and its not the fuel shut off. please any one with ideas

    my email is [email protected] and my name is trevor thanx
  • tommy01tommy01 Posts: 1
    Recently I had problems of the truck sometimes bogging down and blowing out black smoke, started to get worse. Changed both fuel filters and air filter, this morning the truck sttarted for about 10 seconds and shut right off, It still turns over, and sometimes starts for about a second. What would cause this?
  • richter5richter5 Posts: 1
    very similar problem with an Superduty bucket truck I am working on. Did you get yours fixed - any suggestions?
    Thanks
  • amnred103amnred103 Posts: 2
    see what happens when you turn overdrive off when it starts happening
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