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GMC Jimmy Squeaks, Rattles and Noises

rherna56rherna56 Posts: 4
i have a 2000 gmc jimmy slt 4x4. i get a noise that vibrates the underneath the passenger side more but also feel on the driver side, noise that only happens at about 25-30 mph and get a bit louder when at higher speeds, doesnt happen when at a stop and reving the rms to 2-3000 rpm.
i guess that could rule out exhaust, but it sort of sounds like an exaust leak. i hear could be the transfer case, im not sure what that box is underneath, its flat and has a drain plug...
any ideas???


  • Wondering if anyone might be able to point me in the right direction here. I have a 2000 Jimmy and it seems that every-once-in-a-while the front end begins to squeak terribly. I thought it might have been because the Jimmy tends to have problems with the manufacturers ball joints, but they have all been replaced and it is still squeaking???? It might just be my imagination, but I think it is happenning when the temperature gets around 76-85 degrees.

    Sound description: Sounds like a wagon squeak. I can push down on the front end and it squeaks. It's more like a very loud "CREEEEEEEEEK". ??? Hope that helps. Anyway, I'm not to automotive savvy so any help would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks in advance,
  • blaze4x4blaze4x4 Posts: 29
    Grease the front end. Upper and lower ball joints, steering linkage, and A arms... about 10 locations total.
  • Could anyone please tell me what the noise in the front hub could be?
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Hub is failing most probably - just did my 01 and both ball joints (lower was really trashed) and one hub had a slight give or several thousands wobble so I changed both - 85k on this Blazer. Blazer is now tighter than new in the front and the 65up shimmy gone.
  • Hello,

    Well not 10K goes by with something new, now my battery died on me, fine it was a 2000 GMC jimmy with about 98K on it, so I replace the battery, but there is this humming whirrling sounds coming from the front end, I open the hood, its impossible to pin point due to engine noise, but could it be the ALTERNATOR? When I start it up its running around 12V if i hit the accelerator it shoots up to 14V? as well my odometer digital readout is dims then goes bright when the vehicle is idling, but when im driving with the accelerator pressed its nice and bright, anyone please help, I hate having to pay those GM wrench monkies $80 an hour to tell me everything is fine....
  • As well everytime I start my 2000 Jimmy the gas tank goes to full, then when I start driving it stablizes a bit but never less than 3/4's? could this fuel sending unit be messed up with the going of the alternator......
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    If you just replaced the alternator check the 2 pulley up front - the fixed idler and the spring loaded tensioner - all go by 100k so remove the belt and spin them and that should tell you.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    If it did not do it before could be. Did you install it yourself and connect the main positive cable before the plug in connector so its polarized right. Is your battery good. 12.6 volts with engine off then 13.5 to 14 at idle from alternator.
  • I have some play in the passenger side front hub and a grinding noise. Needs replacing, that's obvious. Need cash and time, too. Noise began 2 days ago. Anyone know how long or how many miles I can wait before I've done irreparable harm? I need about 5 days or so.
  • guestguest Posts: 770
    No way to tell - keep the speed down and no long trips and you may be OK - when it really stars screaming stop.
  • jguyerjguyer Posts: 4
    Mine is a 2000 Jimmy, 2WD. There's no axle spindle nut. Are the three hub to knuckle nuts the only thing I need to worry about? Or do I need to have a pro remove the old and press the new hub in place?
  • Just finished my own 2000 Jimmy (2WD). No pressing needed. Just unbolt three bolts to knuckle and it about fell off the car.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Yes, thats correct. Need an 18mm wrench. Unplug the ABS sensor line up about 2' on the frame rail at the connector and may have 1 or 2 other retainers to avoid the suspension cutting into the wire. Good time to check those brakes and grease the slide pins.
  • Mileage? Have to narrow it down. At constant speed, accelearting, coasting/slowing? Going straignt or turning? When brakes applied? If unsure get up to noise speed and put in N and rev it, repaet, determine when - better/worse/same. Could be one of many things.
  • only has 66,000 miles, no vibration on steering wheel, only happens when i getting up to speed, same when brakes applied just gettes quieter because im slowing down, hear its the wheel bearing can cause that. just had the balljoints replaced and arms but was happening before it was replaced....
  • That could be but low miles for them but whoever did the ball joints had to put the hubs off so they should have tested them - if not jack under lower control/ a-arm so CV doesn't bind up and spin the tire/wheel and listen for grating and then you can pull the tire at several positions and watch inside on the backside of the hub where the CV axle shaft passes thru the hub for play.
    Then this could be dragging brakes - rears will cause shake in the vehicle or out of round rear disc/parking brake drum or rear calipers sticking (common after a brake job - always replace rears as single plastic composite piston) - had them all before. Of course this assumes the tires are properly balanced and get a Force balance that the machine checks tire roundness and weight as well as the rim to rules that out. Then many other areas to look at and even the front end alignment can cause - should have been done after the ball joints! Then theres U-joints to check. Most good aligmnet shops can pinpoint the cause.
  • I have a Humming Noise that happens when I get up to speed on the roads. I checked to see if it was the wheel bearings(on all 4 wheels), by moving the wheels to see if there was any play. There was NONE. I am now trying to figure out what else could be making that noise. If the road curves to the right while I'm driving, the noise stops. It is a 02 2 door, 2wd Blazer, 4.3L V-6. THIS IS ANNOYING AS HELL! This is the best way I can describe it.
  • Was there any grating/grinding feel in the front bearings - thats the clue. Mileage? Tires changed recently (tread noise or inflation pressure) or any strange wear (alignment). U-joints OK. Transmission full? Rear diff full? Rear pinion gear noise? Then any engine acc doing it like AC, PS, alternator, idler or tensoner pulleys?
  • "repairdog".....Thanks for replying. I have no grinding activity at all. The tires have not been changed recently, but there is still plenty of life left in them. I'm very ontop of the tire pressure(I keep all tires at 32psi). Alignment is fine, my truck doesn't pull to one side, even when braking.
    I apologize for this one--> but I don't know how to see if my u-joints are bad, so I have not checked this out. Tranny fluid and rear diff fluid is what I'll check next. I'll have one of my friends help me check the rear pinion, and everything else mentioned, and I'll keep this posted and let you know where I stand. THANK YOU!
  • Okay, I've narrowed down the humming noise to the front left wheel. I jacked up the truck and spun the wheel freely. I could tell then that this is where the noise is happening from. Then, I took off the wheel, removed the caliper and then spun the rotor and it still made this strong noise. I am guessing that I will have to replace the wheel bearing. I can't think of anything else that would cause this. Nothing in the engine, it's not the tires, and I'm pretty sure this would be the problem. Unfortunately, they only sell the bearing with the hub assembly together at any parts store for like $200. But on "" I can buy the wheel bearing by itself for like 13 bucks and have someone press the new bearing into my stock hub.
  • One piece hub is NOT rebuildable - have to buy the assembly - older models used the separate bearing. Both Advance and AutoZ carry the hubs but do not get the cheapest bargin ones they fail.
  • Okay. I'm going see what I can do and keep ya posted on what's happening. Thanks!
  • SO.... I'm going to buy a wheel bearing/ hub assembly next week. One of my friends works at autozone, so he may be able to get me a 20% discount...which is good because after tax I'll only be paying $170, and it comes with a 1 yr' warrenty.

    My only question now is, is replacing the entire hub assemlbly managable or is this gonna be a pain? The bolts are not rusted so I hope this goes well....THANKS!
  • good luck i tried to replace mine my self and got everything apart bought brand new part on ebay for $95 shipped, so i was excited, well problem is the bearing is machine pressed in so u will have to take everything off totally off the car and bring to a shop to take off and pressed back in, i confirmed with pep boys and even online, dont bother. im bringing it to pep boys they will put my part in and just pay labor and they just wont warranty the part... no other choice i guess.... didn't feel like taking the hub and all off the truck would have to remove the arm and other stuff, to much... was easy enough oh yea if u r going to do yourself make sure u buy a deep socket 35 mm ususally impact socket they sell at parts america 20 bucks to take off the center nut... then use a puller to pull away from the axle after that if it wasnt machine pressed in it would be easy.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Not too hard. The axle hub nut on 4wd is 36mm and the bolts on the rear holding hub on are 18mm (same for the caliper). So loosen the axle 36mm and then jack it up and safety put jack stands under. Remove wheel and then brake caliper and tie off to the side. Remove caliper bracket, then the rotor comes off (if not hit it with a mallet to break rust free). Then unbolt the small bolts holding the ABS sensor wire to front and unclip at frame connector. Unbolt the three 18mm bolts on rear of hub, and use a large 6" 2 jaw puller to pull hub off CV shaft or a block of wood and large hammer (don't destroy the threads on the shaft). That's it - pull new one one and put other parts back on. The new style one piece hubs have nothing you have to press on - must be older hub with separte bearings (pre 98).
  • mine is a 2000 gmc jimmy and it needed to be machne pressed out. i dont know what u had but if its that year u can call a garage or the dealer to confirm
  • Mine is 2wd, 2002 model. Not sure what challenges I will face in the near future, but I hope it's as easy as taking the old one out and putting the new one in
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    2wd is simple no CV shaft and I still have no clue what was pressed out unless he did CV shaft rebuilds (???)
  • I'm relieved to know that this is simple, if you say so. If your question is for me about cv shaft rebuild, I did not rebuild them....only working with wheel bearing.
    -Thanks again Repairdog!
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