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Dodge Ram General Operating Questions

Hi, i own a 01 dodge ram and i swear this thing is a money pit. I LOVE the truck but its just thing after thing with it, and from what i hear i do not think it is just me. Here are my main problems:
1) GAS, not only is this thing as big as a tank, it drinks gas like a tank. I get on average 10.1 mpg and that is about 70% city and 30% highway. Is anyone elses this bad or am i just not smooth enough?
2) Durability, the dash has cracked from sun exposure (i guess) the clips on the sunglasses and garage door remote break super-easy and my cupholder breaks if i put a drink in that is over a medium.
3) Electrical Issues, lights are weak, tow lights are iffy, if i turn the wheel to hard or roll down a window all the lights go dim. Anyone else have this prob.?

There are many more and i would like to hear others problems, if you can repost with any help, or to complain like myself :) it would be greatly appreciated. Thank you very much for your time.


  • I have a 96 2500 4x4 and have over 275k on it and have had none of the problems you list.

    Yes, it only gets 12.3mpg at highway speed. I do 99% on road driving.

    For the most part I lived in California, I never did anything special inside or out and have no cracked dash. I now live in Arizona and still have no problems other than the exterior paint cracking off.

    You failed to mention if your truck is auto or stick. Mine is a 5 speed. You may of provided your own answer in not being smooth in the stop and go department.

    As far as the electrical problem. It sounds like you need a good mechanic to go over it. Of course we are talking lots of $$$ here, they don't find the problem and fix it anymore it is just swap out parts till the problem is fixed.

    Good luck
  • I have a '98 with 131K on it and it runs GREAT. It's up for sale right now, but that's because I have never kept a car over 75K before. This thig simply won't screw up. No dash or electrical problems. OK, yes, it does go thru a considerable amount of fuel. A little better than yours, but not much. I swallow that loss for its dependability. I have have overloaed the heck out of it hundreds of times and it just does not complain. I'm starting to talk myself out of selling it.
  • yog1yog1 Posts: 2
    I own a 00 1500 sport 4x4 with 35" tires and get about 10 to 12 mpg. That is the same as with the stock tires and rims. My dash also cracked from the heat, normal for them because it is a weak spot in mold for dash. If lights dim then upgrade to a higher amp alt and newer battery. I pull a trailer and put in a 140 amp alt with duel batterys
  • I'm having all kinds of proble,s with my 04. It stalled at a traffic light the other day, my wipers only work sometimes, and now my driver door lock is frozen in the lock position. I can't even put the key in the door and open it. Pulling up on the handle on the inside doesn't work either. I'm ready to drive it into a lake.....Any help for the door lock?
  • Mine is a '94 2500. It runs awesome. only 58k miles. I want to get an intake and make it like a pre-runner. but that'll come later.
  • I just purchased a 06 ram 2500 with a plow. First storm I used it the Alternator gauge would go low when I lifted the plow and set off the warning light. Dealer told me to buy a new battery with more reserve. Electrical system is simply not strong enough to operate an electric powered plow. I am waiting for my alternator to burn out. Should have purchased a Ford.
  • I have a 2003 ram. 3.7L V6. What is the official name of the part where you put the oil in? The part of it that connected to the PCV valve is broken and I want to replace it.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    The part is referred to as the Oil Filler Housing or Oil Filler Tube.

    I bet I know how it got broken, too!

    The PCV valve twists out by rotating it counterclockwise and pulling it away from the housing.

    Best regards,
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Come now. The gasoline Ford SuperDuty gets a 115 ampere alternator with a 650 cold cranking amp (CCA) battery (standard), the RAM 2500 has a 136 ampere alternator with a 600 CCA battery (standard). Both Dodge and Ford upgrade to a 750 CCA battery on their plow package.

    I see plows outfitted on RAMs occasionally enough to know that current draw is not generally problem with the standard electrical package. What make and model of plow is this?

  • Now, here is the million dollar question: Know where I can get one? (preferably cheaper than the dealer)
  • The truck has a snow plow prep package which gives it a 160 amp alternater. The plow is a fisher 8ft HD. The dealer told me that their own truck that they use for their lot does the same thing.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    I'm afraid that this is probably a dealer only part at the moment.

  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    I had to wait until after 5:00 PM here in Rochester, New York in order to check our 2000 Dodge. Ours has a Western Plow-plus. The blade looked like a 7 1/2 or 8 foot. Bringing the blade up caused the voltage gauge needle to drop. I asked the guy who plows our parking lots if this was normal. He looked and said, "yeah, it's always been like that."

    The alternator is the original 136 ampere. So I guess it's normal.

  • The problem might be with the fisher plow it self. It appeas that the alternator is charging ok. The plow pump might be defective and drawing too much elect.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    I can tell you that on our 2000 the voltmeter did drop some, but of course I can't tell if it's dropping as much as yours. It wasn't dark enough to see if the headlights dimmed, but in my experience they typically dim a little. A good friend of mine has a '03 Chevy and his lights dim when he raises the plow.

    Good luck,
  • My 1986 Dodge Ram 4x4, keeps shitting down on me. While driving My electrical system will shut down. The problem just started.What I can't figure out is that I'll lose the headlights, strereo,horn(which is a button mounted to the dash, and direct to the battery), and the starter will turn the engine over but won't fire the fuel. The prob. doesn't happen all the time tho. I've been under the hood shaking wires trying to cause said prob, to no avail, but as soon as I want to drive it down the road it'll cut off on me. Any suggestions.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    First, don't be misled by the horn button. It is not connected directly to the battery. The horn is operated through the Horn Relay.

    I would recommend that you obtain the electrical wiring diagram for that year RAM. You need to isolate potential possibilities and trace the issue down through the logical wiriing harnesses and connectors.

    Good luck and best regards,
  • What I meant was I installed the horn button. The steering wheel horn doesn'rt work.
  • pfteryl1pfteryl1 Posts: 12
  • pfteryl1pfteryl1 Posts: 12
    How can i use 4wd low range for towing my 5th wheel (11000 lbs) up steep grades by disengaging the front wheel drive on dry pavement and curved roads.....WARN does not show any parts for me....'96 Ram, V10, 2500, 4wd. Any suggestions?
  • ramhead1ramhead1 Posts: 15
  • ramhead1ramhead1 Posts: 15
    Hi...Does anyone know how to remove the wiper arms on a 98 Dodge Ram...I see a little tab on the arm where it connects, but it does not seem to move...Any help would be appreciated.
  • Don't see the answer in your owner's manual? Ask here!
  • paldalpaldal Posts: 1
    We have a 2004 Dodge Ram 1500 SRT 10. Our truck vibrates at 75 MPH. Not at 70 MPH. Not at 80 MPH. Only at 75 MPH. We've had the wheels checked and balanced twice now and still, the whole cab seems to vibrate. If anyone has this issue or knows what it could be, I would really appreciate a little insight!!!
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    More than likely, your driveshaft needs balancing - or your exhaust system is experiencing some harmonic vibration at that speed.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Check for a bent driveshaft. I've heard of one SRT-10 that had this problem and unfortunately it was caused by the tremendous torque and hooking the tires up.

    I've also seen a couple of RAM 1500s that had dry U-joints that caused a similar problem.

  • We are driving our first Dodge (2003) as well as first diesel. We have averaged $300/month on repairs mostly u-joints, which causes a vibration. We drive mostly highway, no off road miles. We also had a bent drive shaft which caused a vibration too. Any one else out there having these problems. We really like the truck, just wish we could figure out why the recurring problem. Someone with a 98 Dodge diesel was told his engine is too heavy, threfore the u-joint problems.
    Anyone else have a similar experience? We would like to get this fixed or we will have to get rid of the truck.
  • I have a 2000 Dodge 2500 Diesel. Bought it used from the original owner. He tells me that it does not have a lift kit on it but it seems REALLY high. How does one tell if it has been lifted or not?
  • I have a 2000 Dodge 2500. I would like to install (or have installed if it is to difficult) Clearance lights on top of the Cab. Does anyone know if this truck is pre-wired for this type of installation or do I have to run wires all the way back to a central location?
  • Hi, My husband and I have been working on this truck, it was hit on the front fender of the drivers side, the crossbar was hitting the frame so we replaced it. Now it doesn't seem to turn as sharp, actually it wont turn sharp at all to make a turn right to another street I have to get in the opposite lane then back up again to get it going right.It turns left just fine. The left side was the one hit. Does anyone have any input on this? What could be going on?
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