GMC Sierra: Problems & Solutions

kg11

I'm gonna have to agree with you,at least about the absolutly part. At 6000ft you need 6lb of boost to equal stock intake pressure @ sea level.However;the boys at whipple here in Fresno,CA(elevation 394)inform me that 6lb boost at sea level is typicaly considered "beyond stock perameters" and that I should have the trans taken care of before supercharging to avoid the warranty issue.They also assure me that there are MANY whippled trucks out there with no problems.
kip

sportcly

I had the same problem with my 2001 Sierra 1500. I called the dealer and was informed that it was because the key chip was not being read in my steering column by another chip and the truck could shut down and not be started. It was determined that it was a chip in the column not the key chip as I used both keys to start the truck with. It was about a 5 hour operation when the got a special tool in to dismantle the column and get to the chip.

rrjung

Okay guys, the current issue of Truckin (Feb2002) has a whole section on the installation of a Vortech supercharger for a 5.3L engine. Just follow the pics, I'm sure we could all do it in a couple of hours (7 days a week for the next 10 years). But hey, if 5-6 of us buy one, I wonder if we could get $500 or more off?

etimbers

I don't understand all I know about this!... I go to my hearing, everyone agrees my truck vibrates, GM has made 5 attempts to repair, I've met all the criteria for the GA Lemon Law. But the Arbitrator ruled FOR GM?!?! What kinda crap is that?

She noted in her decision that the problem does not affect the "value, use or safety" of the vehicle... she ought to drive it 25-30 miles!

And another thing... I told her specifically that the vibration is the worst when you get to 55+ MPH, so how fast did we go on the inspection??? Anybody wanna guess??? Max 50 MPH!

Anybody know a good lawyer that wants to crucify GM?

Sorry folks... just venting, but if you know a good lawyer in GA please drop me a note!

TC

ricsch

That decision bites. That arbitrator should get her head out of her _ _ _ and pay attention! When I had my arbitration, the arbitrator couldn't drive (guess they're not allowed to?), so I had to drive while she sat in the passenger seat, and her decision was against GM.

themailman1

Arbitrator sided with me, because GM didn't have the answers for him. I had the answers. Was your arbitrator driving a NEW GM TRUCK?

2timer

I lost my arbitration too. I had a long list of problems most of wich are still not fixed. The arbitrator(female) seemed to be swept off her feet by the gm rep. I thought for sure they would toss me at least a little bone but nah, the gm rep was too smooth of a liar.

rrjung

Okay guys, had a set of Monroe Reflex (as recommended by a tech at Tenneco, the oem makers of our shocks) on for two weeks. Some improvement over stock, but still an irritating bounce. This is the last set I'm trying. So, after the Edelbrock IAS, Rancho RS 9000, Monroe Reflex and two versions (HD & C) of Bilsteins, I vote for the Ranchos. They have five "adjustment settings" on them, and you can still add an air accessory to increase shock pressure, if you really wanted to. Got rid of about 75% (max) of the harmonic bounce. The Heavy Duty Bilsteins did almost/or as well (I think, it was 6 months ago). I've decided, for now, not to install $2000 worth of King Shocks (the Baja Calif Road Race King). Think I'll spend my money on headers and a supercharger. Only looking at KenneBelle, MagnaCharger and Whipple...and waiting for Obyone or Minikin to install one first. I still may get the traction bars...but I'm tired of screwing with the "bounce".

wisdomseeker

My 2001 GMC Z71 Xcab is using oil like crazy! About 1 quart every 4,000 miles. Only 14,800 miles on truck. Talked to 2 dealers about this. One says GM says 1 quart every 1,000 miles is acceptable. Unreal! Sounds like a cover up to me. If this is the way it is now, how much will it use at 50,000 miles???? Anybody else out there having this problem? By the way, I've never been happy with the way my truck bounces either. I thought GMC was "Professional Grade".

ryanbab

there is a tsb out for a new PCV value to stop oil usage

sonjaab

Hey did you ask your dealer about the
PCV valve ? Others here have had high
oil usage and a newer GM PVC valve
seemed to solve their problem.
FWIW: My 96 Caddy uses 1 qt. every
1000 miles from brand new. Caddy
said that its normal ! MY 97 350
NEVER used a drop between changes...geo

sonjaab

You type faster than me......LOL

mledtje

1qt/4000 miles is not bad. Depending on your driving conditions, that could easily be time to change oil. I probably wouldn't worry about that.

Now if gets down below 1qt/2000miles, I'd get upset.

Mike L

wisdomseeker

Mike,
Maybe it's the PCV the other guys are speaking about. My driving habits are mostly in town about 35 miles a day and that 7 mile trips at a time. I'm very easy on a vehicle. Don't even go off road with the Z truck. Tow a bass boat is about the heaviest thing I do. Anyhow, my '95 didn't use any at 80,000 miles. I'm very concern about a brand new auto using oil.

Guys keep me posted if you hear anything other than the PCV valve.
Billy

ryanbab

do you have any smoke from your tailpipe on startup?

hunter98

One quart per 4000 miles isn't too bad at all, I would monitor it though. An engine should use about 1/2 quart between oil changes. An engine can run too dry and cause more wear. The only disadvantage to your situation, is that you need to keep an eye on it and add a 1/2 when it is low.

Hunter

ryanbab

"An engine should use about 1/2 quart between oil changes"

I have 24005 Miles and my truck doesnt use a drop of oil

hunter98

It isn't necessarialy a bad thing that yours uses no oil, but I would rather see 1/2 quart at 5000 miles, than none, but I bet yours uses at least 1/16 of a quart between changes, which is enough to lube it up.

These trucks that use 1 quart every 1000 miles though have a problem!

Hunter

ryanbab

i change mine at 3 month or 3K.

Last change was done with about 2800 miles and 3 months exactly.

I have a 6qt pan. I filled the pan and after spilling a little on the floor i have 5.5 qts filled up So maybe i used .2 qts if that

2timer

where you step on the gas and nothing happens for a couple of seconds, any word on a fix for this yet? the gm engineers are looking into it(?)
Also anybody else with leather seats have problems with them cracking?

rrjung

one of the things I learned by accident a few vehicles ago: installing the reusable K&N air filter will probably help. The air is less restricted and throttle response is much better. I've put K&Ns on all my vehicles since.

About the oil loss...I have minimal oil loss, with changes every 5000 miles. I don't think ANY amount of substantial (> 1/3 quart every 5k) oil loss is acceptable.

rayt2

There is a TSB on your condition, I had same hesitation problem and also a surge problem , both required updating computer programming under warranty.
There was a site to find out all the TSB's issued to date but I'll be damned if I can remember the whole link it's www.crackeregg/2000cktruck or something like that.
A little help from the gallery out there.........
Sucks to get old ! Memory is the first to go they say.

Ray T.

txyank1

www.geocities.com/crackeregg/gmsi.html

obyone

figures tho.

mugster

This may be your fix on the hesitation.

Lean Hesitation, Sag or Stumble on Light/Moderate Acceleration (Reprogram PCM) #01-06-04-006
Lean Hesitation, Sag or Stumble On Light/Moderate Acceleration (Reprogram PCM)
1999 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Pickup Models (Silverado, Sierra)

with 4.8 L, 5.3 L or 6.0 L V8 Engine (VINs V, T, U -- RPOs LR4, LM7, LQ4)

Condition
Some customers may comment on the following condition:

A lean hesitation, sag or stumble present during light to moderate accelerations.

Usually only present on the first one or two accelerations.
The condition occurs when the coolant temperature is between -6°C and +21°C (20°F and 70°F).
Fuels with a high driveability index can also be a contributor.
Cause
Calibrations not optimized for various operating parameters.

Correction
Verify that the driveability condition is not the result of an inoperative component, or a related wiring/other condition.

Calibration Information
Old Calibration P/N New Calibration P/N Vehicle Engine/RPO
9357587 9358565 2WD and 4WD 1/2 ton PU 4.8 L/ LR4
9357589 9358567 2WD and 4WD 1/2 ton PU 4.8 L/ LR4
9357593 9358568 2WD and 4WD 1/2 and 3/4 ton PU 5.3 L/LM7
9357595 9358570 2WD and 4WD 1/2 and 3/4 ton PU 5.3 L/LM7
9357598 9358572 2WD and 4WD 3/4 ton PU 6.0 L/LQ4
9357600 9358574 2WD and 4WD 3/4 ton PU 6.0 L/LQ4

The Calibrations listed are electronic calibrations and are NOT available from GMSPO. Calibrations will be available from Techline starting November 2000, on the TIS 2000 version 19.5 TIS 00/2000 data update or later.

Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

Labor Operation Description Labor Time
J6355 PROM Reprogramming Add: Diagnosis Use Published Labor Time

© Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved.

txyank1

to "mark" this stuff if when you go back to use it it don't work! cheeeesh.

jvt1

I just bought a new 2002 Extended Cab Sierra 1500 and during my "briefing" from the salesman he told me I didn't have to worry about changing oil every 3000 or 5000 miles or whenever. He said that the computer in the truck would let me know when it is time to change the oil.?? I have never heard that one before. Is this really correct or should I change every 3000 like I'm use to doing?

txyank1

hurt anything by sticking with 3k, but my "Change Oil" light comes on around 4500. Except when I took a 3k mile trip then it went to around 6k. Personally I think 3k is overkill, but oil is relatively cheap.

rayt2

You did READ your owners manual haven't you ?? It's all in there as to what your new truck has (like the message center) My oil change light has varied from 4200 to 5300 hundred miles depending if I have been hauling/towing or just driving around town. I do my oil changes @ 5000 miles no matter what the message center tells me and am still ahead of what the factory recommends which is 7500 miles normal driving conditions, you choose the interval you want.

The manual also tells you how to reset this reminder message too! Just gotta READ your manual.

Ray T.

jvt1

Yea I read my owners manual, cover to cover. And I know what it says about the oil change interval also. And how to reset it. I also know that for years and years and years ect ect ect the conventual wisdom has been to change oil every 3000 miles if it needed it or not.(Which is probably something the oil companies started to sell oil and filters). This computer reminder thing is new to me and I am curious if it is a good thing or not. I do not always think that something different is better or even good at all, so my personal thing is to challenge anything new until I am satisfied that it works ok. It's saved me a lot of grief over the years. I'll probably let my computer tell me when the oil first needs changing and keep a close eye on it until it does. If I think it goes too long I'll change it earlier. Like txyank1 says, oil is relativity cheap.

rayt2

Have you noticed the conventional wisdom (as far as Jiffy Lube and Dealer Service dept's.) still has not changed even though mgfs. requirements have? Maybe GM, Ford & Dodge all have off shoot lube companies, ya know sorta like Enron, LOL!

Ray T.

xyz71

I changed my oil at 3K give or take for the first 25K. I did not reset the light just to see how many miles before light came on. It came on between 3,300 and 3,500 miles and 130 -140 hours. I have switched over to Mobile -1 and plan to let the light keep track of it. I figure with synthetic I still have a margin of error.
If light does not pop before 5,000 or 6 months it will get changed.

erikheiker

I do the same as xyz71. I did my first oil change at just under 3000, when the light first came on. At that time I switched to Mobil 1 and just change it when the light comes on. The farthest I've gone is about 3500 miles before I saw the light.

mledtje

I did my first oil change at 500 miles. We always used to do that to get out any contaminants that were in a new engine. Since then, I follow the oil change light.

Hopefully, the GM engineers know more about the engine and its oil needs than I will ever know, so I follow their oil change light.

Modern oils are clearly superior to older oils, modern engines are built to closer tolerances with better materials. It only makes sense that the oil change intervals should be longer than they used to be. I like the fact that the truck will call for more frequent oil changes under hard operating conditions and less frequent changes for ideal operating conditions. Makes sense to me.

Mike L

txyank1

you could change the filter at 3k to 3500, the oil AND filter at 6 to 7000 and not have any ill effects. And save money.

jvt1

Thanks for the input guys. I'll probably do my first oil change around 3000 and then let the "light" guide me and see what happens.
Another question- I've noticed that a lot of you say you have switched over to Mobil 1 or some other synthetic oil. Are your trucks in heavy duty use or just normal wear and tear? What are the advantages to using synthetic rather than regular oil if the major use of the truck is just normal light duty? Or is this just personal preference?

xyz71

I have always thought synthetic oil was a waste. I planned on changing every 3K so why bother.

I decided to give them a try when I went into Walmart to pick up oil to do a change in both of my trucks - and the penz 5w30 I always buy was $1.67 per quart and the M-1 5w30 was on sale for $2.93 per quart. Seems like I could always buy penz for around $1.00 / and M-1 was always $4.74.

I thought what the hell -

I bought enough M-1 for 4 changes - after that we will see

erikheiker

It can't be beat for cold weather starts. We don't have plug-ins at work, so the engine can be really cold after sitting there for 13 hours. Plus, it just can't hurt to have extra protection.

mledtje

Synthetic oil calms my fears about going over 3000 miles on an oil change. Now I just wait for the Oil Change light and don't think about it.

Mike L

minikin

Tappet brothers don't push 3K mile oil changes any more.
-- Don

ak4x4

Since me and Erik are from the same city I can agree with him...

Mobil 1 is the way to go... But I like to change my oil every thousand miles, soit would get very expensive to do that. I'll just stick with just plain ole 5w30. I tend to stick with Chevron. Mobil regular oil will leave a film, so if you use an oil cleaner later on, the film will wear off... The good thing about Mobil regular is that it is good oil. You may see a performance difference the first time but that's all.

But if you live in a climate like us, the oil will turn to goop in the pan. If you don't heat the block before, you may need a new pump at 40k.
See as I only have 5K on my truck, I think It will last a long time..... But 3k is about normal for any car/truck to be done...

wftx

I have a 2000 GMC Sierra 1/2 ton 5.3 4x4. A couple of months ago I started to notice a slip in the drive train when I accelerated from a dead stop. I took it to the dealer and they diagnosed the problem as a slip in the drive shaft yoke repairable under service bulletin F0060-0.6. Apparently GM has a design problem and the service bulletin calls for the installation of a redesigned drive shaft yoke. Only problem is I had to wait about 6 weeks for the dealer to get the part because GM hadn't manufactured any/enough of them yet. The repair has since been made and the problem eliminated. Here's my dilemma. I'm concerned about the amount of "hidden" damage that may have occurred during the 6 week period of time while I was waiting on the parts. Its hard to believe that "slip" wasn't hard on the rest of the drive train. I asked the dealer about it and they directed me to GMC's customer service folks. I'm preparing to contact them now. Any suggestions on how to approach them? Extend my warranty, etc.? The truck has about 34000 miles so I am reaching the end of my 3/36. I've also got the proverbial cold engine knock problem.

gator36

The problem with the yoke is that the old (original) one tends to bind on the output shaft of the
tansmission. The technician that installs the new one will de-burr the output shaft of the transmission in order to allow the new yoke to slide properly. There is no discernable damage done to the splines.

obiggs

HELP, my parking brake goes all the way to the floor and still is not enough to keep it from rolling down my 2% driveway. I looked under my truck and where 1 cable goes into 2, and it's tighten all the way (from the factory?) anyone having the same problem?

rrjung

I've got a 2000 also and had the same problem, when the truck was new. The dealer said they'd fix it, but I would have to leave it with them for the day. But, I had a Haynes manual which shows how to adjust the parking brake. Took about an hour, including jacking up the rear of the truck, etc. Peddle only went down about 50% after I adjusted it. But, a year later, it's creeping pretty close to floor level again, so I guess I'll have to do it again in the early summer.

obiggs

What did you ajust and where?

bradn1

I have a 2000 GMC 2500 3door. The bed is splitting at all four corners. Is their anyone with this problem or any information?

obyone

or pipe rack installed?

bradn1

what else is a truck for?

obyone

Pickup Box - Reinforcement Kit Availability

File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories

Bulletin No.: 01-08-66-005

Date: June, 2001

INFORMATION

Subject:
Availability of Pickup Box Reinforcement Kits for Toolbox/Rear Window Barrier/Ladder Rack Applications

Models:
1999-2001 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Pickup Models (Silverado and Sierra) With Fleetside Pickup Box (RPO E63)

New pickup box reinforcement kits are available for customers who may want to install a cross toolbox, side box, or a ladder rack system as an accessory.

Important: The reinforcements must be installed before adding a toolbox or ladder rack system. After the reinforcements have been installed, follow the instructions supplied with the toolbox/ladder rack system for installation onto the pickup box.

Use the following service procedure to install the reinforcements. Use the applicable reinforcement kit part number listed below.

Toolbox and Rear Window Barrier Applications Only - Front Reinforcement Installation

Important: The horizontal surfaces of the reinforcements must be flush to the horizontal surface of the pickup box top rail. Use a clamping tool when positioning the reinforcements onto the top rail to ensure flushness to the outer panel.

1. Place the front L-shaped reinforcements into position on the front top of the pickup box. For vehicles equipped with an over the rail bedliner, the bedliner should be removed with the aid of an assistant prior to installing these reinforcements.

2. Mark the holes necessary for drilling.

3. Remove the front reinforcements.

Important: Use a block of wood and/or a drill stop in order to protect the back of the cab while drilling.

4. Drill two 13.5 mm (0.54 in) holes per side into the box section of the front panel.

5. Drill 7.5 mm (0.30 in) holes into the weld flange of the side outer panel.

6. Touch-up the drilled holes as necessary using the information found in the applicable Service Manual and GM Refinish Material Booklet # 4901M-D-2001 (English) or # 4901M-D-F2001 (French).

7. Place the front reinforcements back onto the box, lining up the drilled holes.

8. Install the large shoulder (M8) bolts into the reinforcement and front panel (total of 4) and the small (M6) bolts into the reinforcement and side outer panel (total of 6) with the nuts.

Tighten

^ Tighten the M8 bolts to 25 Nm (18 lb ft).

^ Tighten the M6 bolts to 9 Nm (79 lb in).


9. Remove all metal shavings from the pickup box after installation.

10. Install the bedliner if equipped with the aid of an assistant. The bedliner may need to be trimmed in order to obtain the necessary clearance to the reinforcements.


Ladder Rack Applications Only - Reinforcement Kit Installation

1. Install the LH and RH front L-shaped reinforcements using the procedure above.

2. Remove the LH and RH rear taillamp assemblies. This is necessary to gain access to install the rearmost bolt of the rear reinforcement.

3. Place the LH and RH rear reinforcements into position on the pickup box.

4. Mark the holes necessary for drilling and remove the reinforcements.

5. Drill 7.5 mm (0.30 in) holes into the weld flange of the side outer panel.

6. Touch-up the drilled holes as necessary. Refer to step 6 under Front Reinforcement Installation procedure.

7. Place the rear reinforcements back onto the pickup box.

8. Install the M6 bolts through the reinforcement and side panel with the nuts.

Tighten

Tighten the bolts to 9 Nm (79 lb in).

9. Install the LH and RH rear taillamp assemblies.

10. Place the LH and RH center reinforcement into position on the pickup box.

^ On the 2.4 m (8 ft) long pickup box models, this center reinforcement fits over the existing center stake hole.

^ On the 2 m (6.5 ft) short box models, these center reinforcements are recommended to be installed. The reinforcements should be centered between the front and rear reinforcements on the pickup box.


11. Mark the holes necessary for drilling and remove the brackets.

12. Drill 7.5 mm (0.30 in) holes into the weld flange of the side outer panel.

13. Touch-up the drilled holes as necessary. Refer to step 6 under the Front Reinforcement Installation procedure.

14. Place the center reinforcements back onto the pickup box.

15. Install the M6 bolts through the reinforcement and side panel with the nuts.

Tighten

Tighten the bolts to 9 Nm (79 lb in).

16. Remove any metal shavings from the pickup box after installation.
Parts Information

Parts are expected to be available 6/22/01 from GMSPO.

* Maximum Equipment Weight Capacities (equipment and cargo)
^ Ladder rack and cargo - 364 kg (800 lb)
^ Cross toolbox and cargo - 182 kg (400 lb)
^ Side boxes and cargo - 159 kg (350 lb) (per side)

* The combined weight for all rail-mounted equipment should not exceed 545 kg (1,200 lb).