No good ideas on lube coming out of the overflow. The same thing happened on my son-in-laws Dakota. I wanted to look inside the differential to see it the overflow tube was mounted too low or in the wrong place - but, he didn't want to open it up.
Some possibilities:
- too much fluid - maybe the excess came out? - wrong fluid, and it is foaming, causing venting? - water in the fluid - gets hot and boils? - defective casting allowing fluid to be thrown from the ring gear to the vent
Have you changed the differential fluid? I would put in a synthetic fluid and see if it helps. Of course, I would like to look inside and check the location of the vent also.
Stopped in a GMC dealer about the Sierra. Since that and the Chevy Silverado are the same, I asked the dealer if, in an emergency, I could go to a Chevy dealer and have the GMC serviced under warranty. He said "no way, Chevy will charge you for any work, and we do the same if someone brings in a Chevy truck here". Sound good or off the wall to you guys????????????
Cross-line warranty capability was recently announced to wholesale personnel and GM dealers via a DCS administrative message and a hard copy letter was sent to GM dealers only. The following bulletin provides additional information for dealers wishing to perform cross-line warranty repairs. We have also provided a section for Frequently Asked Questions that will address additional inquiries we have received since the release of the DCS message.
One of the benefits of cross-line warranty is the ability to perform repairs for customers in an emergency situation. Since emergency situations can be subjective from a customer's perspective, the dealer will need to determine if the situation merits urgent attention. While additional tools or training are not required, dealers should exercise good judgment regarding their ability to perform the repair. The overall intent is to provide an opportunity for customer satisfaction in a potentially negative ownership experience. If the dealer has questions regarding a specific situation, they should be reviewed with the Area Service Manager (AVM).
The second instance in which cross-line warranty can be performed is for used vehicles. Any used GM vehicle resold by a GM dealer may obtain warranty service from the selling GM dealer regardless of the dealer's new vehicle franchise. This will be helpful to dealers who have sold a used vehicle to a customer that is different from their franchise and will not have to turn the customer away for any remaining warranty work.
Cross-line warranty is not to be a replacement for the GM Certified Used Vehicle process. This process still remains intact and is administered by the GM Certified Used Vehicle Department.
Lastly, cross-line warranty capability is now available for designated commercial light duty trucks. Designated commercial dealers are defined as those dealers that meet the standards of the Light Duty Commercial Program and have signed the Dealer Participation Agreement. The matrix should help in identifying which light duty commercial vehicles qualify for cross-line repairs by designated commercial dealers.
Frequently Asked Questions
When can I start to perform cross-line warranty repairs and which model year vehicles can I service?
You can now submit cross-line warranty claims for any model year vehicle with warranty remaining, provided that the repair fails within one of the three established and previously stated guidelines.
Can I promote my cross-line warranty capability?
No. After receiving input from both the National Dealer Council and GM, GM agreed that in order to protect brand identity and dealers' equity in their franchise, dealers will not be permitted to advertise cross-line warranty service by any means including direct mail or other dealer mailings. Any violation of this could result in on-site consultation, audit, dealer charge back or termination of cross-line capability.
Can I perform a recall repair if one is outstanding on a used vehicle or one that has come into my shop as a result of an emergency situation? Yes. The campaign should be completed if the customer is at the dealer under one of the three established and previously stated guidelines. However, dealers should always check General Motors Vehicle Inquiry Service (GMVIS) to see if there is an outstanding campaign prior to the vehicle being sold. Dealers also need to make sure that they have the right tools and training to perform any recall. How do I submit a warranty claim on a cross-line warranty repair?
No changes are necessary to the warranty claim payment submission process in accommodating cross-line warranty repairs. Submission of cross-line warranty repair claims within the warranty period are to be done following established business processes and practices. Wholesale authorization must be obtained for any claim outside the warranty period on a non-franchised vehicle.
Will cross-line customers be excluded from receiving CSI surveys?
No. Cross-line warranty repairs are projected to be minute and are not considered to be the core repair business of the dealership. In addition, exclusion would be difficult and would interfere with the statistically valid selection process CSI has in place.
Why are Saturn and Saab excluded from participating in cross-line warranty? Saturn and Saab each have unique warranty claim payment and parts distribution systems. This would make it particularly difficult for non-Saturn and Saab dealers to procure parts or obtain reimbursement for the repair.
Does cross-line warranty capability alter the Roadside Assistance policies?
No. Roadside Assistance parameters require the vehicle be directed first to the selling dealer when practical, then to the closest franchised dealer, and last, to the nearest GM dealer
I drive a '99 GMC sierra Z71 SWB 2 dr. When it shifts into overdrive (at a premature 40 MPH) the engine sounds like it is running sick or it is just knocking around. This only seems to hapen when I am hitting the throttle. I also wish it would stay in fourth gear longer before shifting into o/d. I guess I could power program it. Please reply with any info on the engine noise and o/d shift. Thanks, dale madden
is something wrong with the truck? would premium gas, a new fuel filter, or cleaning the fuel ingection help? It only has 47000 miles on it but I bought it used w/ 44000. I also recently put new wheels and 285/75 r16 BFG mudders on it. Will this affect any thing as far as performance, tranny troubles? The transmission also makes a noise when it shifts into o/d too early. Is this another cause for concern? thanks for your help!
I know that someone posted the web address for the latest GM Technical Service Bulletins before, but I can't seem to remember how to pull it up. Can someone help me with the site address please?
Have a problem wiht my driveshaft on my 99 ext cab truck. The driveshaft is fine(no movement) from the enging back to the carrier bearing, the driveshaft on the axle is fine as well. The only movement is on the back side of the carrier bearing(facing the axle).
How can I check to see if the carrier bearing is bad or just the universal on that side is bad?
How hard is the to replace yourself? carrier bearing or universal?
I'm not driving my truck now, but will this hurt or cause any problems to drive on if I had to?
Can any one tell me if there was a GM service bulletins on the wind noise problems with bug shields and wind shield molding. If so do you know when it was dated?
New Windshield/Glass Urethane Adhesive Caulking Kit
File In Section: 10 - Body
Bulletin No.: 83-15-16
Date: October, 1998
INFORMATION
Subject: New Windshield and Stationary Glass Urethane Adhesive Caulking Kit
Models: 1990-99 All Passenger Cars and Trucks
As a result of a change from standard viscosity urethane to high-viscosity urethane, a new Urethane Adhesive Caulking Kit, P/N 12346392, is now available from GMSPO. This kit contains the "High Viscosity" Urethane Adhesive for thicker and more consistent bead size applications. When applied properly, this new high viscosity urethane in many instances will eliminate the need for depth setting blocks or the damming material to control squeeze out. The following is the contents of the new kit:
Like the standard viscosity urethane contained in kit (P/N 12346284) that it replaces, it is a one-part, moisture cure product with curing times that vary as a result of changes in either temperature or humidity.
THE REQUIRED TIME FOR THIS NEW ONE-PART MATERIAL to ensure a safe installation of stationary glass before returning the vehicle to the customer, IS A MINIMUM OF SIX (6) HOURS AT 70°F (21°C) AND 30% RELATIVE HUMIDITY.
Alternate equivalent materials for this kit may be available from a local glass repair shop under the following product numbers:
Other manufacturers of Urethane Adhesive that have documented their ability to meet or exceed General Motors specification # 3651M (Performance Requirements for Stationary Glass Bonding Adhesive System Service) are also considered to be equivalent to GM Kit (P/N 12346392).
In previously published Corporate Bulletin Number 73-10-54, increasing customer demands for faster service have resulted in quicker two-part urethane adhesives to be made available. Essex Beta Seal U216* (two-part urethane adhesive) also meets the General Motors 3651M Specification and can be used when the customer demands quicker repair of the vehicle than the above described one-part product can provide.
This two-part, chemical cure product requires ONE (1) TO ONE-AND-ONE-HALF (1-1/2) HOURS FOR CURING BEFORE RETURNING THE VEHICLE TO THE CUSTOMER. This two-part product also requires primers on the glass and pinchweld surfaces. The primers and applicator daubers are not included with this two-part product and therefore, must be purchased separately. In addition, this two-part product requires a special applicator (gun) for proper mixing and dispensing of the adhesive.
Important: The U216 product is NOT available from GMSPO and must be obtained locally.
* We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of such products. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or assume any responsibility for the products from this firm or for any such products which may be available from other sources.
When using either of the above described products, make sure to follow the manufacturer's directions for application and drying times. For information regarding the removal and installation of stationary glass, consult the appropriate Service Manual.
Parts information
P/N Description
12346392 Urethane Adhesive Caulking Kit
Parts are expected to be available from GMSPO, 10/12/98.
Important: The previously recommended adhesive kit (P/N 12346284) will no longer be available from GMSPO once inventory is exhausted.
I have a '01 Sierra 1500 Xcab. It began having a squeek/thunk in the rear end at about 20,000. a year ago, the dealership replaced a "yoke" in the driveline (redesigned they said). Now the noise is back, when taking off from a standstill, or stopping. Any suggestions?? At 35,200, I'm about at the end of the warranty
Tricitysam.. Is your 1500 xcab a 2 or 4 wheel drive? The drive shaft was replaced last summer in my silverado 1500 2wd xcab for what was like a lurch or skip when i stepped on the gas after stopping, and the whole truck shook badly when towing.
(2000 Sierra 1500 Z71 50K miles) started to take longer and longer to start after not running for a couple of hours. Replaced the fuel filter, no help. I'll give some scenarios:
1) Mostly, if I just try to hold the key on and try to start it, it will take 5-10 seconds, spitting, rough idle, then finally get going.
2) Or, if I first just hit the key once for a real short burst from the starter, turn the key off, then start like normal it starts right up. Strange?
Some have suggested a bad fuel pump anti-drain valve. Makes sense, but how does this explain the second scenario? Also, if it is the fuel pump do I have to replace the whole pump or just the valve?
We have a 2K 1500 4WD Sierra with 47K miles that we are having intermittent problems with it starting at times. This occurs whether it is sitting for a while or just recently shut off. Once hitting the front end of the fuel tank (where fuel pump is at), made the truck start. Tonight, after refueling the truck wouldn't start. After tapping on the fuel pump failed, after stepping on the gas peddle didn't work, my husband opened the hood and pulled on the throttle cable and got the truck to start. This has happened ~4 times over past 6 months. Before going into the service shop, would like to know if anyone else is experiencing this sort of problem and/or has a suggestion of what it could be.
Hi All- I have a 2001 Sierra 1500 Z71. It only has 14,000 miles on it.
It just recently developed a 'knocking' that I can hear AND slightly feel through the steering wheel - but it only happens when I am turning to the RIGHT and applying the brakes at the same time - and it's much worse over rough pavement. It seems to be coming from the front end drivers side wheel.
it's like when the suspension is 'active' (i.e. over rough pavement) and I'm braking and turning right it happens. It's not normal as I just started noticing it on my drive to work everyday when I exit the same offramp. Never was a problem before.
Any ideas that I can tell the dealer when I bring it in to look for? The first dealer I brought it in to claimed they couldn't notice it. Even my wife who is car-phobic notices it now.
Hey Brian... Have them check the steering intermediate shaft. There is a procedure for the dealer to lube it and replace if nesessary. I had a similar problem and the dealer replaced it.
Thanks Charlie for the tip. I saw the threads in hear discussing it, and I would think if that was the problem though, wouldn't I feel it ALL the time? I thought it may be something with the suspension since it's only on right turns and over bumps? Or does the Steering Intermediate Shaft problem show the same signs as I am having?
One thing GM is good at is being consistent with their problems. In other words, if they issue a TSB, there is a very good chance that it will eventually affect your truck. And yes it is an intermittent problem depending on the severity of the bump and the speed that you roll over it while turning.
I have a 2000 Sierra 4wd with the Auto Drive function. At apx. 30K in the Auto mode when turning slightly I would have a grinding and growl. Eventually the problem became worse and progressed when in 4HI on dirt and gravel off road travel at low speeds the transfer case would bind and cause the vehicle to stop. Even in a 5 degree turn or so. After two trips to dealership, and comparing to a used truck on their lot with the same mileage that was silent in all 4wd modes they went into the transfer case. Local GMC dealer was making an "Adjustment" when they broke something and had to place new out of the crate transfer case. 5 days later with new case no noise at all. Now at 77K I am experiencing more noise and binding in the Auto mode but I am not experiencing the same problem experienced previously in the 4HI mode. I am uneasy about going to the same dealer, even thought they are a Goodwrench certified since they broke it last time. This trip will be on my nickel since I am out of warranty. My questions are does this sound like an internal problem to the transfer case or could something external to the transfer case in the front drive line? Any suggestions? I have several friends/family with same drive train in trucks, Tahoe’s and Yukon XL's and none have ever experienced the same problem. Many of them (mostly the wives) leave the things in Auto mode all of the time, which would seem to cause more problems. Thanks in advance for your advice.
I have the notorious Piston slapping problem with my 2000 GMC 1500 ext cab. I have roughly 100,000 miles (mostly highway). I just started to notice the problem this winter. My first questions is if the noise goes away in warmer weather? And more importantly will this condition cause major engine damage or is it just an annoying issue. I am very good at changing the oil at the specified times and I have recently switched to Mobil Synthetic.
I have had a couple of problems with my truck but they were relatively minor and the were all while it was under the standard warranty. I have not had any problem in the last 60,000 miles or so.
100k and just developed the piston slap ????? Consider your self lucky but don't tell GM. I have had the slap since 17k and now have 39k no better no worse on my 2000 3/4 ton Rado w/5.3L. You'll be fine with your truck if it just developed now. Damn there's one for the record book for longevity on the slapparado piston knock !
wwent on by themselves at startup.I could not get the lights on the switches to go off by pressing or by turning the fan switch off. The a/c compressor was cycling and with the temp rotated to full hot I was getting all cold air even the dash defrost vents. It stayed that way for a 15 min. drive then after the next startup all was back to normal. Any Ideas what was going on? Truck is 1500 ls 2wd 5.3l ext.cab 36k miles. Also the hard 1-2 shift has appeared,I never had that one before.
Hello everyone, I`m new here. I have 2000 GMC Sierra ext cab pickup, auto trans, has 21,000 miles on it. At 5500 miles it developed a short hesitation from a dead stop,i had the yoke replaced, shift cable replaced, reprogrammed the computer,a new valve body installed in the trans,and it still does it. Is this a design flaw? Does anybody have the solution to this annoying problem??
My sister has a 98 1500 4X4 with over 100k miles on it. She has had alot of work done on the steering but can't seem to fix this problem: The truck gets skiddish almost like it hit a patch of ice but only for a second or two at a time, then it steers just fine. It seems to be worse in turns and in cold weather (there is not ice on the road). Any suggestions? Thanks.
Does this problem occur in hot/warm weather (maybe not, given the January date of your posting)?
My wife's 2000 Sierra had this problem. It started when the weather was really hot, like over 100 degrees, parked in the sun, but got steadily worse, until it was happening in 70 degree weather, and ocassionally stalling while in stop and go traffic.
I finally took it into the dealer and they diagnosed and fixed the problem in a couple hours. It was a leaking fuel pressure regulator. My understanding of the problem is that there was a pinhole leak in a diaphram in the pressure regulator, allowing fuel under pressure to leak out (and return to the fuel tank). Lowered pressure in the fuel lines then allows the fuel to flash vaporize, giving rise to vapor lock-like symptoms. The repair was cheap and her truck has been running fine since.
Yep, had the exact same thing happen to my 2000 2500 with the 6.0L. Sucker would be hard to start, stumble, spit, sputter till it ran for a few minutes. Turn it off for an hour or so and it all began again. The fuel pressure regulator was changed under warranty (16K miles) and the beast is happy again.
I have a low mileage 2002 Sierra Denali that has a miserable creak on the right side of the dash, above 65 mph. Since it gets worse with increased speed, maybe it is GM's new governor for safety. If not, has anyone had a similar problem and received a dealer fix? I'd like to know what to tell them when we "talk."
Other than that, nice truck and no complaints so far. Other than mileage. But then, it is a truck. Quad steering is a nice around-town feature....aside from attracting the funny looks. Get a life.
Hello everyone. I have a 2000 Sierra 1500 with Auto 4 wheel Drive, 40K miles. I have seen several postings on the Service 4 wheel message and I am having the same problem. Comes on frequently and does not want to go into auto 4 wheel or 4 hi/lo. Lights flicker but typically will no stay in 4 wheel. What have others found to fix these issues. Thanks
followup on posting #753. I took my truck to the dealer and it was the control panel on the dash shorting out. Dealer said they had one last week with the same problem. Sounds kinda common. Fixed for $160.
Am told that squeaking in my truck indicates a need to replace the "driveline." I have 51,000 miles on this thing and am more than surprised by this new development. Truck has actually been great until this moment. Any such problems elsewhere?
My 2002 GMC Sierra SLE, 5.3L engine, has had a vibration at about 700-800 RPM since new. You can put the transmission in DRIVE and hold the brake and rev it to 700 rpm and it vibrates enough that you can feel it everywhere, it even causes rattles under the dash like crazy. It does it also in PARK but not quite as bad. It seems to be a lot worse when the engine is cold than when hot. The local Service department disabled all accessories and then agreed that it was in the engine. It seems to be the strongest at the rear of the engine. They tried another 2002 vehicle on the lot and it had the same vibration. They then decided that it must be a normal condition and told me that they couldn't fix it. Has anyone else had this problem and if so is there any solution to the problem????? If not then does anyone have any suggestions about where to look for a solution. There is something else about the engine that I've noticed and that is the oil pressure. Don't know whether this would have anything to do with the vibration but when cold the oil pressure will peg at 80psi and when driving it will set on 70psi. This seems a little high to me for a truck engine. Any thoughts on this??? Thanks in advance for any suggestions!!!
the truck has a vibration under torque between 65-75 mph dealer has balanced drive shafts,rebuilt transfer case, rebuilt transmison, replaced torque converter,road force balanced tires,rebuilt the frt diff. nothing has helped they then lowered the trim height this changed the vibration but it is still present. the engineer responce is " it is an inherent trait on a AWD trucks to have these vibrations " So is this information being shared with consumers? it wasnt shared with me!!!
I have a 2000 GMC Sierra, SLT, 5.3, 4WD, ext cab, 1500, with 35K. Great truck but I have had an occasional clanking noise since it was new. The dealer can't seem to locate it. I have to hit a fairly sizable bump to hear it. Is particularly bad on washboard roads. Seems to be coming from the passenger side, rear tire area. Sounds like a banging trailer hitch but sound remains when I remove the hitch. Any ideas?
Do you have the rubber spring isolators installed on the leaf springs, there was a TSB on spring noise, this could be the source of problem, unless dealer already thought of this.
Comments
Some possibilities:
- too much fluid - maybe the excess came out?
- wrong fluid, and it is foaming, causing venting?
- water in the fluid - gets hot and boils?
- defective casting allowing fluid to be thrown from the ring gear to the vent
Have you changed the differential fluid? I would put in a synthetic fluid and see if it helps. Of course, I would like to look inside and check the location of the vent also.
Good luck,
Mike L
File In Section: 00 - General Information
Bulletin No.: 00-00-89-021
Date: August, 2000
WARRANTY ADMINISTRATION
Subject:
Cross-line Warranty
Models:
2001 and Prior Passenger Cars and Trucks
Attention: All U.S. General Motors Dealers
Cross-line warranty capability was recently announced to wholesale personnel and GM dealers via a DCS administrative message and a hard copy letter was sent to GM dealers only. The following bulletin provides additional information for dealers wishing to perform cross-line warranty repairs. We have also provided a section for Frequently Asked Questions that will address additional inquiries we have received since the release of the DCS message.
One of the benefits of cross-line warranty is the ability to perform repairs for customers in an emergency situation. Since emergency situations can be subjective from a customer's perspective, the dealer will need to determine if the situation merits urgent attention. While additional tools or training are not required, dealers should exercise good judgment regarding their ability to perform the repair. The overall intent is to provide an opportunity for customer satisfaction in a potentially negative ownership experience. If the dealer has questions regarding a specific situation, they should be reviewed with the Area Service Manager (AVM).
The second instance in which cross-line warranty can be performed is for used vehicles. Any used GM vehicle resold by a GM dealer may obtain warranty service from the selling GM dealer regardless of the dealer's new vehicle franchise. This will be helpful to dealers who have sold a used vehicle to a customer that is different from their franchise and will not have to turn the customer away for any remaining warranty work.
Cross-line warranty is not to be a replacement for the GM Certified Used Vehicle process. This process still remains intact and is administered by the GM Certified Used Vehicle Department.
Lastly, cross-line warranty capability is now available for designated commercial light duty trucks. Designated commercial dealers are defined as those dealers that meet the standards of the Light Duty Commercial Program and have signed the Dealer Participation Agreement. The matrix should help in identifying which light duty commercial vehicles qualify for cross-line repairs by designated commercial dealers.
Frequently Asked Questions
When can I start to perform cross-line warranty repairs and which model year vehicles can I service?
You can now submit cross-line warranty claims for any model year vehicle with warranty remaining, provided that the repair fails within one of the three established and previously stated guidelines.
Can I promote my cross-line warranty capability?
No. After receiving input from both the National Dealer Council and GM, GM agreed that in order to protect brand identity and dealers' equity in their franchise, dealers will not be permitted to advertise cross-line warranty service by any means including direct mail or other dealer mailings. Any violation of this could result in on-site consultation, audit, dealer charge back or termination of cross-line capability.
Can I perform a recall repair if one is outstanding on a used vehicle or one that has come into my shop as a result of an emergency situation? Yes. The campaign should be completed if the customer is at the dealer under one of the three established and previously stated guidelines. However, dealers should always check General Motors Vehicle Inquiry Service (GMVIS) to see if there is an outstanding campaign prior to the vehicle being sold. Dealers also need to make sure that they have the right tools and training to perform any recall. How do I submit a warranty claim on a cross-line warranty repair?
No changes are necessary to the warranty claim payment submission process in accommodating cross-line warranty repairs. Submission of cross-line warranty repair claims within the warranty period are to be done following established business processes and practices. Wholesale authorization must be obtained for any claim outside the warranty period on a non-franchised vehicle.
Will cross-line customers be excluded from receiving CSI surveys?
No. Cross-line warranty repairs are projected to be minute and are not considered to be the core repair business of the dealership. In addition, exclusion would be difficult and would interfere with the statistically valid selection process CSI has in place.
Why are Saturn and Saab excluded from participating in cross-line warranty? Saturn and Saab each have unique warranty claim payment and parts distribution systems. This would make it particularly difficult for non-Saturn and Saab dealers to procure parts or obtain reimbursement for the repair.
Does cross-line warranty capability alter the Roadside Assistance policies?
No. Roadside Assistance parameters require the vehicle be directed first to the selling dealer when practical, then to the closest franchised dealer, and last, to the nearest GM dealer
Thanks,
dale madden
thanks for your help!
How can I check to see if the carrier bearing is bad or just the universal on that side is bad?
How hard is the to replace yourself? carrier bearing or universal?
I'm not driving my truck now, but will this hurt or cause any problems to drive on if I had to?
Thanks for the help
File In Section: 10 - Body
Bulletin No.: 83-15-16
Date: October, 1998
INFORMATION
Subject:
New Windshield and Stationary Glass Urethane Adhesive Caulking Kit
Models:
1990-99 All Passenger Cars and Trucks
As a result of a change from standard viscosity urethane to high-viscosity urethane, a new Urethane Adhesive Caulking Kit, P/N 12346392, is now available from GMSPO. This kit contains the "High Viscosity" Urethane Adhesive for thicker and more consistent bead size applications. When applied properly, this new high viscosity urethane in many instances will eliminate the need for depth setting blocks or the damming material to control squeeze out. The following is the contents of the new kit:
Like the standard viscosity urethane contained in kit (P/N 12346284) that it replaces, it is a one-part, moisture cure product with curing times that vary as a result of changes in either temperature or humidity.
THE REQUIRED TIME FOR THIS NEW ONE-PART MATERIAL to ensure a safe installation of stationary glass before returning the vehicle to the customer, IS A MINIMUM OF SIX (6) HOURS AT 70°F (21°C) AND 30% RELATIVE HUMIDITY.
Alternate equivalent materials for this kit may be available from a local glass repair shop under the following product numbers:
Other manufacturers of Urethane Adhesive that have documented their ability to meet or exceed General Motors specification # 3651M (Performance Requirements for Stationary Glass Bonding Adhesive System Service) are also considered to be equivalent to GM Kit (P/N 12346392).
In previously published Corporate Bulletin Number 73-10-54, increasing customer demands for faster service have resulted in quicker two-part urethane adhesives to be made available. Essex Beta Seal U216* (two-part urethane adhesive) also meets the General Motors 3651M Specification and can be used when the customer demands quicker repair of the vehicle than the above described one-part product can provide.
This two-part, chemical cure product requires ONE (1) TO ONE-AND-ONE-HALF (1-1/2) HOURS FOR CURING BEFORE RETURNING THE VEHICLE TO THE CUSTOMER. This two-part product also requires primers on the glass and pinchweld surfaces. The primers and applicator daubers are not included with this two-part product and therefore, must be purchased separately. In addition, this two-part product requires a special applicator (gun) for proper mixing and dispensing of the adhesive.
Important: The U216 product is NOT available from GMSPO and must be obtained locally.
* We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of such products. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or assume any responsibility for the products from this firm or for any such products which may be available from other sources.
When using either of the above described products, make sure to follow the manufacturer's directions for application and drying times. For information regarding the removal and installation of stationary glass, consult the appropriate Service Manual.
Parts information
P/N Description
12346392 Urethane Adhesive Caulking Kit
Parts are expected to be available from GMSPO, 10/12/98.
Important: The previously recommended adhesive kit (P/N 12346284) will no longer be available from GMSPO once inventory is exhausted.
There isn't any TSB that refers to bugshields.
The drive shaft was replaced last summer in my silverado 1500 2wd xcab for what was like a lurch or skip when i stepped on the gas after stopping, and the whole truck shook badly when towing.
1) Mostly, if I just try to hold the key on and try to start it, it will take 5-10 seconds, spitting, rough idle, then finally get going.
2) Or, if I first just hit the key once for a real short burst from the starter, turn the key off, then start like normal it starts right up. Strange?
Some have suggested a bad fuel pump anti-drain valve. Makes sense, but how does this explain the second scenario? Also, if it is the fuel pump do I have to replace the whole pump or just the valve?
thanks
Thank you-
Rachel
I have a 2001 Sierra 1500 Z71. It only has 14,000 miles on it.
It just recently developed a 'knocking' that I can hear AND slightly feel through the steering wheel - but it only happens when I am turning to the RIGHT and applying the brakes at the same time - and it's much worse over rough pavement. It seems to be coming from the front end drivers side wheel.
it's like when the suspension is 'active' (i.e. over rough pavement) and I'm braking and turning right it happens. It's not normal as I just started noticing it on my drive to work everyday when I exit the same offramp. Never was a problem before.
Any ideas that I can tell the dealer when I bring it in to look for? The first dealer I brought it in to claimed they couldn't notice it. Even my wife who is car-phobic notices it now.
thanks,
-brian
Have them check the steering intermediate shaft.
There is a procedure for the dealer to lube it and replace if nesessary.
I had a similar problem and the dealer replaced it.
-brian
I have had a couple of problems with my truck but they were relatively minor and the were all while it was under the standard warranty. I have not had any problem in the last 60,000 miles or so.
Damn there's one for the record book for longevity on the slapparado piston knock !
Ray T.
Im still scratching my head
My wife's 2000 Sierra had this problem. It started when the weather was really hot, like over 100 degrees, parked in the sun, but got steadily worse, until it was happening in 70 degree weather, and ocassionally stalling while in stop and go traffic.
I finally took it into the dealer and they diagnosed and fixed the problem in a couple hours. It was a leaking fuel pressure regulator. My understanding of the problem is that there was a pinhole leak in a diaphram in the pressure regulator, allowing fuel under pressure to leak out (and return to the fuel tank). Lowered pressure in the fuel lines then allows the fuel to flash vaporize, giving rise to vapor lock-like symptoms. The repair was cheap and her truck has been running fine since.
Jim
Other than that, nice truck and no complaints so far. Other than mileage. But then, it is a truck. Quad steering is a nice around-town feature....aside from attracting the funny looks.
Get a life.
Thanks
John
Ray T.
Ray T.