LOL... If i only paid that much money never would i be ripped off like that , but FYI my heater core was clogged ,like i said the water pump and temp was done first heater core last . but trust me I knw what was wrong and what I paid for and isn't wasn't even in the thousands. I knw what i did to my truck enough said . I wont keep telling u cause ur not the one who ask the question so goodbye.....
I know my blend door is bad because I would have ac and heat in the rear but not the front, recently it blows no heat anywhere. The hoses going to the heater core are cold as is the lower radiator hose but the top hose get hot. I thought maybe I didn't have enough antifreeze in it before winter and the radiator froze up but lately its been warm enough for it to unthaw, its 45 degrees today. after warming the motor up I got some pressure building up in the coolant recovery tank but then it stops. I have cut my way into the blend door like heatertreater informs you to and the blend door was just dangling, I have close the blend door and opened it by hand and ran the heater with no luck of heat either way. I cant afford to have a mechanic fix it because I'm unemployed at the time, also when I drive it the temp gauge will almost "but doesn't" get into the hot (red) mark but then goes right back into the middle. Any help would be greatly appreciated
I got 2.5 gallons of (LOOKED LIKE MURKY RIVER WATER) but tested at -18.c My question is is this enough antifreeze for the heater to blow heat? I will be putting in 3 gallons of straight anti freeze tomorrow then top it off with distilled water, I hope this fixes my heat issue. If not then I'm back to square one and still open for suggestions.
Continuation, I drained the radiator and replaced with 3.5 gallons of new 50/50 I saw some small bubbling in the coolant bottle, this time I heard some noise around the water pump so I did the (screwdriver to the ear trick) and it sound like it coming from the water pump, would a bad water pump make it so it doesn't produce hot air? Come on man I've posted three times and no answers, someone throw me a bone here. Thanks...I also made sure the radiator was clear because I ran some of the old antifreeze through the top rad inlet and the same amount drained out the bottom.
Thanks for your response, did you read where I installed a new t-stat and already cut into the blend door and revealed it was bad? and that it didnt matter where I (by hand) put the door position in it still blew cold air? Seeing how the water pump is making a noise I didnt notice before I will be replacing it. Thanks again.
The water pump was the culprit, for anyone's further information the clutch fan nut 32mm loosens counter clockwise NOT clockwise like I was told by the counter person at Autozone, he read what the book said but the book is wrong they loosen counter clockwise. I found the quickest and least painful way to loosen the clutch fan nut is with a muffler impact with a straight blade, just take it slow. Job completed.
Hot upper radiator hose, cold lower radiator hose and cold heater core hoses, you may have a water pump that has gone bad, mine, the propeller came un attached to the shaft and was just free spinning, it never leaked and only made a very minimal amount of noise. Its January in Ohio so it never over heated but the temp gauge would spike almost to "HOT" then return to normal. Hope this helps.
I know when I came in looking for solutions I was desperate, I hope it will make somebodys elses diagnostics easier. Thanks I just ordered my blend door (previous issue) and followed the HeaterTreater video on You Tube. I will let you all know the outcome of that also.
I keep reading that replacing water pump has fixed the No-Heat problem on several threads. My 98 Expedition front/rear HVAC has several of the symptons I'm reading:
I have no signs of leakage of coolant anywhere I have no noise or cavitation fron the pump I have drained & flushed radiator, both heater cores T-Stat has been replaced (hard to determine when it opens because engine temp remains below standard, 180 degrees); after a long drive the upper hose & heater hose are hot but not as hot as they should be.
How can I test the water pump efficiency without removing or replacing it?
Are you sure nothing is coming out of the floor and it just won't switch to ceiling? I as because the blend door actuators in the rear have a tendancy to break.
Did you ever get a response from anyone. I have a 2006 Expedition and it just started doing the same thing. I can't turn it down, it just blows on high. Thanks.
I have a 99 expedition with an EATC module. I just had my entire dash removed and the heater core, radiator and thermostat replaced. I also had a couple of o-rings in the a/c coolant system under the hood replaced and the refrigerant recharged to repair a leaky a/c system. When I picked up the vehicle from the garage the climate control system is not working properly. I can get nice hot air or nice cold air if I use the appropriate buttons but my problem stems from the "automatic" setting. In auto mode, it blows hot air the entire time, no matter what I set the temperature to. I suspect the Automatic Temperature Control Sensor Hose & Elbow is bad or was reinstalled incorrectly with the dashboard. Everything else seems to work fine in manual mode, air temperature changes, air flow is directed to different vents properly, and the rear air conrols work properly. I ran the EATC module self test and did not get an DTCs. What do you think?
Hi there! I Have A 2003 Expedition with 139K Miles. The A/C Works On "Max" Okay But Not As It Did When New. The A/C Normal Settings Barely Gets Cold.... Just Luke Warm Air. The A/C And Heat Doesn't Come Out Of The Back system?
Have '99 Expedition, when heater is turned on there is a real bad antifreeze smell. Does this mean heater core replacement?? Dash is apart to the heater core and there are no visable leaks or residue of one.
Greetings, This is a heater performance problem with a Automatic climate Control LCD panel. I've read the posts and cannot find anything that seems to fit my problem. First, I have a 99 Explorer Eddie Bower Edition, not many of the Explorers have the Automatic Heater Control Panel with the LCD display, so I have posted to the Expedition forum, as the Expedition has the same automatic control panel. The symptoms are as follows. The display jumps from 85 to 90 degrees, I'm not sure this is normal, and I never noticed whether this was that way originally because I never had to set the heat setting that high. All of the controls seem to work, air, vent, heat; except for when trying to get heat you will only get it at 84-85, or 90 temp setting. There seems to be a difference in the intensity of the heat at those temp settings, but anything lower is cold air.d. On the 90 degree setting you get cooked. I replaced the Heater Control Valve, because it was easy and relatively inexpensive. When I select different vent options, e.g.: Floor, PNL, Defrost or combinations of, all of those seem to direct the air to the correct vent, but only cool air until you hit the 84-85, 90 temp range. The air conditioning works properly when selected. I've checked the fluid levels and they are correct. My original thought was a leaky vacuum diaphragm in the Heater Control Valve, but as it turns out, the vacuum keeps the valve closed, when the vacuum is released the valve opens, I left the new control valve in. From the forums it doesn't seem like a mixer door problem. My next best guess is the control panel is faulty, or perhaps something has come unhooked. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks, roger@morrisons.ws
Okay I have no front heat in my 98 EB edition explorer. So far I have replaced the blend door, heater core, actuator motor, thermostat, control pane and had the system flushedl... STILL NO HEAT! I called the Local Ford dealer to see if they could guide me and the guy told me that I have two blend doors in the front. I have found NO info on a 2nd blend door for the front unit. I know I have one for the rear heat but its evidently working since I have heat back there. Now I am not a complete auto idiot my dad was a mechanic and I grew up in a garage, but we are at a loss for what to do now... Can anyone help me out?
I have a 1998 expedition i have lost heat to my front climate blows out cold air all the time but my rear climate blows out hot air i changed the front climate control switch and no luck on fixing it dont know what to try next any info out their
You should research the blend door - it is what changes the air temperature and is notorious for breaking. The dealer fix for it is to remove the dash to replace it, there is also a short cut called Heater Treater. Check their web site, it may help with diagnosis also.
Hi, I'm new to the forum and also in dire need of advice. I've seen someone post the same problem as I have but yet to see a definate solution. On my 2003 Eddie Bauer Expedition 5.4L 4wd, the air conditioning blows out the defrost vents and not the a/c dash vents like its suppose to. It gets cool but takes forever. I live in the southern U.S. and have been lucky the high temperature has only reached 91° so far this summer. I know my luck will run out soon so if anyone has the expertice to provide me with the solution I would greatly appreciate it. I also have the annoying clicking from the rear a/c. Great forum. Thanks again.
@d1960 said:
Hi, I'm new to the forum and also in dire need of advice. I've seen someone post the same problem as I have but yet to see a definate solution. On my 2003 Eddie Bauer Expedition 5.4L 4wd, the air conditioning blows out the defrost vents and not the a/c dash vents like its suppose to. It gets cool but takes forever. I live in the southern U.S. and have been lucky the high temperature has only reached 91° so far this summer. I know my luck will run out soon so if anyone has the expertice to provide me with the solution I would greatly appreciate it. I also have the annoying clicking from the rear a/c. Great forum.
Thanks again.
That is a vacuum leak, the default in that event is the defrost vents. The usual place for the vacuum lines to break down is where they pass under the battery tray. The clicking in the rear is a broken blend door actuator. There are two back there, one for temp control, one for floor to ceiling.
Okay Y'all, I've got a possible solution for you. I've got a 1995 Explorer and I've been running into this problem quite often. so here's a few things to check: 1: there is air in you coolant system. make sure all of your hoses are sealed properly and no leaks. the system needs to pressurize properly to pump through the heater core. you can change your radiator cap and make sure your overflow line isn't clogged.
2: my biggest problem...the climate control A/C control unit in the dash is malfunctioning. I suggest replacing it, it's only about $40 and saves a huge headache.
3: and last, but not final, check your vaccuum lines! it's very possible you have a broken vaccuum line somewhere on the engine. Fords are natorious for the lines drying out and cracking. I've replaced all my lines with metal (alot of work but well worth it).
my problem was the climate control. it was causing the heater to not blow hot because it was stuck mid-way between hot and cold. wiggling it and nursing it along worked for me until I could replace it. now, HOT air!
Comments
My question is is this enough antifreeze for the heater to blow heat? I will be putting
in 3 gallons of straight anti freeze tomorrow then top it off with distilled water, I hope this
fixes my heat issue. If not then I'm back to square one and still open for suggestions.
make somebodys elses diagnostics easier. Thanks
I just ordered my blend door (previous issue) and followed the HeaterTreater video on You Tube. I will let you all know the outcome of that also.
I have no signs of leakage of coolant anywhere
I have no noise or cavitation fron the pump
I have drained & flushed radiator, both heater cores
T-Stat has been replaced (hard to determine when it opens because engine temp remains below standard, 180 degrees); after a long drive the upper hose & heater hose are hot but not as hot as they should be.
How can I test the water pump efficiency without removing or replacing it?
Thanks, Scott
Thanks for those who replied with some suggestions.
Scott
I Have A 2003 Expedition with 139K Miles.
The A/C Works On "Max" Okay But Not As It Did When New.
The A/C Normal Settings Barely Gets Cold.... Just Luke Warm Air.
The A/C And Heat Doesn't Come Out Of The Back system?
What And Where Should I Start To Look?
Andre :confuse:
the front ac only blows hot air and only on highest fan setting.
Apparently we replaced a vacuum hose cause of a check engine light and the ac now blows out the front instead of just the defrost.
but now only hot air comes out. HELP. I live in texas and summer about here.
This is a heater performance problem with a Automatic climate Control LCD panel.
I've read the posts and cannot find anything that seems to fit my problem. First, I have a 99 Explorer Eddie Bower Edition, not many of the Explorers have the Automatic Heater Control Panel with the LCD display, so I have posted to the Expedition forum, as the Expedition has the same automatic control panel.
The symptoms are as follows. The display jumps from 85 to 90 degrees, I'm not sure this is normal, and I never noticed whether this was that way originally because I never had to set the heat setting that high. All of the controls seem to work, air, vent, heat; except for when trying to get heat you will only get it at 84-85, or 90 temp setting. There seems to be a difference in the intensity of the heat at those temp settings, but anything lower is cold air.d. On the 90 degree setting you get cooked. I replaced the Heater Control Valve, because it was easy and relatively inexpensive. When I select different vent options, e.g.: Floor, PNL, Defrost or combinations of, all of those seem to direct the air to the correct vent, but only cool air until you hit the 84-85, 90 temp range. The air conditioning works properly when selected. I've checked the fluid levels and they are correct. My original thought was a leaky vacuum diaphragm in the Heater Control Valve, but as it turns out, the vacuum keeps the valve closed, when the vacuum is released the valve opens, I left the new control valve in. From the forums it doesn't seem like a mixer door problem. My next best guess is the control panel is faulty, or perhaps something has come unhooked. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks, roger@morrisons.ws
I have a 1998 expedition that will not blow hot air out of heater. Have replaced thermostat and didn't help. Is the cool/hot selector switch bad?
Probably the blend door behind the dash board, it is what moves when you select hot or cold. Notorious for breaking.
Thanks again.
That is a vacuum leak, the default in that event is the defrost vents. The usual place for the vacuum lines to break down is where they pass under the battery tray. The clicking in the rear is a broken blend door actuator. There are two back there, one for temp control, one for floor to ceiling.
1: there is air in you coolant system. make sure all of your hoses are sealed properly and no leaks. the system needs to pressurize properly to pump through the heater core. you can change your radiator cap and make sure your overflow line isn't clogged.
2: my biggest problem...the climate control A/C control unit in the dash is malfunctioning. I suggest replacing it, it's only about $40 and saves a huge headache.
3: and last, but not final, check your vaccuum lines! it's very possible you have a broken vaccuum line somewhere on the engine. Fords are natorious for the lines drying out and cracking. I've replaced all my lines with metal (alot of work but well worth it).
my problem was the climate control. it was causing the heater to not blow hot because it was stuck mid-way between hot and cold. wiggling it and nursing it along worked for me until I could replace it. now, HOT air!
hope this helps all