Ford F-150 Problems

pocahontaspocahontas Posts: 802
edited March 2014 in Ford
#0 of 0: (ratencio) Thu 30 Nov '00 (08:50 PM)

I dual gas tanks on an 86 ford f150. one tank
pushes fuel from tank to another. I have to switch tanks every 15 minutes. I replaced the relay but the truck will not stay on one tank. Does anybody have any ideas
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Comments

  • bobs5bobs5 Posts: 557
    www.f150online.com has a message board which may contain a similar topic.
    Perhaps one of the people there may have a suggestion for you.
  • rvsv5rvsv5 Posts: 8
    took truck in re: popcorn sound, dealer says nothing found, and nothing on their dealer sheets regarding problem. Made it seem like just an isolated situation or no situation at all. I would appreciate any info so I can pass on to dealer.
  • rvsv,
    It isn't isolated because my truck does it too. Run your A/C for a while and switch it to floor/panel and let it run for a while then switch it back to A/C and let run, then shut the truck off. This produces the popping for me. Also happens when I turn the knob to off and then I turn it to A/C or floor/panel, let it run then turn back to off. Hasn't done it lately because I haven't used the A/C in a while(New England is a little chillier this time of year)but it pops in the summer when I keep playing with the A/C selector knob. I find it will definatly pop when you play with the A/C controls but it would sometimes pop even if I left the A/C knob turned to A/C for a long time. Fiddle with the controls you'll get it to pop.
  • Background:
    2000 F150 4.6 v8 limited slip 2 wheel drive.

    Was originally getting 16-17 city and 19-20
    highway. On a trip through the Kentucky hills the
    cruise control kicked in the throttle real hard to
    maintain speed on an upslope. Every since then my
    gas consumption has been increasing. Currently at
    14-15 city and 16-17 highway. Dealer replaced
    throttle control valve and reprogrammed computer
    to
    factory specs. Otherwise they say there is
    nothing wrong with the vehicle.

    Any help / suggestions welcome.

    gk
  • lariat1lariat1 Posts: 461
    The popping noise you are hearing is the refrigerant in the A/C system expanding in the tubes.It is caused by the liquid refrigerant heating up causing the liquid to turn to gas as a result the pressure builds up real fast and you get a pop.This is normal and happens to all closed systems when an energy source is suddenly removed.
  • Lariat1,
    Thanks for the info. I'm relieved to know it is normal.
    Truckowner
  • rvsv5rvsv5 Posts: 8
    Thanks for the response. Are you saying its normal for this particular system or for all cars in general. I have heard a sound similiar to what your are describing, in general. But I have owned several cars and trucks for over 25 years and I have not experienced a similar situation w/ regard to the A/C system to the extent that I have w/ this Ford F150. The sound I hear coming from under my hood is particularly loud and if it is caused by the same condition that you are describing, what could account for the clear difference in volume of the sound? thanks.
  • I like your explanation better for that "popcorn" sound I hear during AC season after parking my truck in the garage (close-space enhanced) than the AC-condensation-draining-onto-hot-exhaust explanation I had heard before. I mean, if the latter was the cause, then why didn't they reroute the AC condensation drain tube?

    BTW, the sound never bothered me anyway as I have often heard similar noises on other cars, especially on V8s. It's probably more noticeable on the F-150 than a car because of the ground clearance and other exposure allowing the sound to radiate from the AC pretty much unobstructed....

    Thanks,
    the other Tim
  • lariat1lariat1 Posts: 461
    I cannot figure out why it is so loud on the F-150 but I do know it is normal,I had 2 97's my dad had a 97 and a friend of mine has a 99 and they all made the noise.
  • kit1404kit1404 Posts: 124
    My 1999 F-150 with 5.4 and 4X4 off-road has always made that noise. Seemed to me from day-one, bought it in June and hot weather - must be A/C condensation dripping on something hot. Never even bothered to look under it. It doesn't do it in the winter and like I said, seemed kind of obvious - considering the big puddle of water under where the noise was coming from. Nothing has cracked from cold water running on a hot surface(a plus considering other problems I have had with other trucks with hot surfaces and cold water contact). By the way, I really listen and notice noises and do look hard for them - this one I never worried about.
  • rvsv5rvsv5 Posts: 8
    ok, thanks for the info. I am just curious though as to why the noise seems to trigger, when I come to a stop, for example at a light, I cannot recall, right now, if the sound is constant once the a/c is turned on, but I do recall it is more exagerrated, both in sound and in speed, as I am braking. do you think the action of braking on the truck causing the temperatures to change or expand the gases inside the system?
  • Rvsv5,
    I think it could be that the normal driving noises (wind, tires etc.) hide the popping sound?
    But you are right it sounds more prevalent when stopped.
    Truckowner
  • I'm NOT a refrigeration expert but I've been told that Ford uses less valves and such in their A/C systems. They engineer their systems to use an orifice of a certain size rather than a controlling valve. This means a more reliable system. There are some drawbacks and popcorn is one of them.
    I have heard some sounds in my super duty for 47K miles. No real problem yet. My only complaint is that the A/C doesn't get as cold as I would like when the temperature is 110+ outside.

    Rich
  • I have a 1996 F-150 with approximately 59,400 miles. The truck developed a terrible shudder between 2-3 and 3-4 gears or between approximately 35 - 45 mph. Based on some of the earlier postings, other people have or are having this type of problem. It would seem to me that transmission failure at this mileage suggests a larger problem exists. After all, Hyundai offers a 100,000 mile powertrain warranty. Based on the recommendation of the local dealer, I had the transmission overhauled. It seems to me that Ford has produced an inferior product. (My previous 1988 truck without the overdrive transmission did not have this problem). I am curious to hear from other people with this infamous transmission shudder.

    If you are interested in possibly pursuing this
    matter further, please leave an e-mail address
    with your post.
  • trucker10,
    At 60K miles your auto trans is having a problem. Suddenly it's a legal issue? Have it fixed and find out what is really wrong. It's quite possible that Ford may stand behind your problem. Have you got records showing that you've changed the fluid at the recommended 30K miles? If not, you may be out of luck.
    Rich
  • Copy pasted for these participants: a2c32, rrichf1, and mheidemann1:


    #19 of 21: Ford troubles (af2c32) Wed 13 Dec '00 (08:30 PM)

    I have a Ford E-150 van and it has been to Ford 15
    times for air conditioning repairs. The freon has
    leaked 11 times and I am on my 4th compressor.
    The fight continues.
    HELP--for Ford folks go to www.alldata.com and it
    is a great resource to find tech service bulletins
    and safety recalls for your vehicle.

    Use this information with the regional
    representative to help your argument.

    #20 of 21: (rrichf1) Wed 13 Dec '00 (09:58 PM)

    af2c32,
    After about the third trip for A/C repairs I would
    try another dealer.
    Rich

    #21 of 21: #0 of 1: (mheidemann1) Wed 13 Dec '00 (10:30 AM) (mheidemann1) Thu 14 Dec
    '00 (11:41 AM)

    '00 F-150 V-6 stalling (Topic #2522)
    2 responses, 1 new, Last post on Wed 13 Dec '00 at
    11:51 AM

    -----------------------------------------------------------------------

    I have a 2000 F-150 v-6, 5-speed that has some
    type of electronic problem. At temperatures above
    80F it will die, stall, stumble, run irradically
    or all of the above. After it dies, if I run the
    starter without switching to "off" first, it will
    not start. If I tun the key all the way off and
    then run the starter, it starts. Unfortunatley,
    by the time I get it to the dealer, it runs fine
    and they cannot find any error messages on their
    computer. The speed and rpm guage generally go
    wild during this "seizure". The dealer replaced
    the instrument cluster, but the problem still
    exists. Now that it is cold, the truck runs fine
    so it is related to temperature. This has got to
    have happened to someone else, can you help?
  • copy/pasted for noller2g:

    22 of 22: Trucker10 - Tranny problem (noller2g) Mon 18 Dec '00 (08:12 AM)

    Transmission shudder is common in all pre-97 4R70W
    trannys, Lincoln, Ford, Mercury. From Mustangs,
    to F150, to Mark VIII's.

    The clutch in the torque converter is shuddering
    as it engages lock up.

    There are several TSB's out there that deal with
    this issue. Mostly, you need to change your fluid
    (do a good power flush) and filter, and add a can
    of Ford-Spec Friction Modifier.

    There are also some TSB's that deal with the 1-2
    shift acumulator piston and springs.

    I seriously doubt you need an overhaul. Have your
    dealer or a respected trans shop flush out your
    system (about $150 if done right), fix the faulty
    1-2 piston and spring (about $40 in parts, one hour
    labor)and keep driving.

    Change fluid every 20K miles or so.

    Post 97 trannys are made better.

    Greg
    Wichita
  • I just heard the noise again the other day. It was a cold day and I had not been running my air conditioner at all; heat only (and it had been more than half an hour since I had the defroster on in case that runs the AC for defogging -- not sure on that). Maybe this is a different noise than some of you are hearing, but it just sounds like a piece of sheet metal cooling after I've stopped driving and popping as it changes shape (shrinking slightly from cooling). I'm guessing that it's a shield around the exhaust header(s). It is definitely not something I'm worried about. FWIW
  • We have a 1998 F150 with the 4.6 V8 and auto transmission with o.d. At 51,000 the transmission "burned up" (per the dealer) with little warning. I'm not an expert and don't know all the technical terms but it's hard to believe this huge problem at only 51K miles. The dealer says we need a new transmission for $2,000. Has anyone else had problems like this?
  • I have a 2000 F150 4x4 5.4 Whenever I get on an on ramp or press the accelerator down about a quarter of the way to the floor I hear pinging. The dealership says it is exhaust noises common to 5.4s. I think I can tell the difference. Even more common if I go down to anything less than 93 octane. Anybody have this problem or solutions. DAVED710 THANKS FOR ANY HELP
  • Possible explanations:
    clogged fuel filter
    clogged air filter
    timing not set right
    clogged emission control system
    bad plug or plug wire
    electrical fault in ignition system
    fuel injection not properly metered (i.e. too rich or too lean)
    bad gasoline
    cheap or too low octane gasoline (I run Chevron premium in all my cars and NEVER have pinging problems)
    Can also be a combination of all of the above. Fuel filters should be replaced annually.
  • I've got about 18,000 on my truck and I love it!

    But..........

    In early November my engine started squealing like crazy. When I first started the engine in the morning or after it had set for several hours it would squeal until the engine warmed up. I thought it was a bad belt. But after listening to it a little closer I decided that it was probably a bad bearing.

    I took it to the dealership to get it looked at and I was told that the Crankshaft Damper was out of round. Needless to say they replaced it but they also had to replace the Tensioner Arm and Pulley and the Idler Pulley, along with a new belt.

    Once all of this was replaced I noticed a slight gain in takeoff power and little less vibration in the pedal.

    I can understand replacing the Crankshaft Damper and the belt, but, why everything else? It was all covered under warranty so I really didn't question it then. Although after reading through all of the discussion topics out here I thought I'd throw this out there to see if anyone has experienced this or know of someone who has? Maybe someone could tell me why they needed to replace all of the other parts.

    Kev
  • emaleemale Posts: 1,380
    daved710,

    my 2001 s-crew with 5.4l makes a raspy/gurgling type noise while accelerating. i'm having a hard time deciding if it is intake or exhaust noise. anyway, i think it is intake noise and it does sound slightly like pinging. however, i'm pretty sure it isn't actually pinging. btw, ford only recommends 87 octane for the 5.4l. anything else could cause poor performance. at least that is what my owner's manual says...you should probably check your manual to see what it says...

    davesnothere,

    most of the potential problems you suggest would cause the check engine light to illuminate. back in 96 the federal government required these things to be continuously monitored (obdII-on-board diagnostics) by the powertrain computers on all cars and i'm pretty sure light trucks, altho i'm not entirely positive about trucks...

    for the rest of you,

    i noticed you guys talking about "popping" noises. are you hearing this inside or outside the vehicle? i've noticed "popping" noise while pulling up along side a building, say while i'm waiting for my big mac at mickeyd's. the sound is very similar to that experienced after shutting off the truck and the exhaust is cooling down. is this what you guys are talking about? thanks.
  • This has been very irritating for me the last 6 months!!! The "Door Ajar" light and chime does not cut off after the 10 second allowance. Maybe a bad relay?? I don't know what to do. I have disconnected the wiring harness at the chime box but that didn't help because that affected other electrical components. Any suggestions????
  • I only notice the popping in my garage after getting out of the pickup. It hasn't concerned me so I haven't noted whether it always does it or if it is only after a long drive, etc.
  • sydney6sydney6 Posts: 64
    I have a '95 F150 supercab, and am fed-up with the my Ford dealer's service department. Everytime I take it in for even the most minor service they end up charging me $500 or more

    Does anyone know a good, reliable independent Ford mechanic in the north San Diego County area?
  • Noller2g Wrote about a fix for the shutter and 1-2 shift problems. I am having this problem and asked my dealer about the shift modifier. They say they do not know anything about it. Could you provide any details about what this stuff is?
    Thanks, Jay.
  • The switches for the Door Ajar/Interior Light are in the door latches (there is no plunger switch in the door jamb). Dirt/grime will cause the switch to stick. Try spraying some degreaser/lubricant into the door latches. It may take more than one shot to get the switch clean.
  • bigsnagbigsnag Posts: 394
    A friend of mine had this problem and it took a little more than one squirt. Heck, I think it took more than one CAN of WD-40. But he did get it to stop. I don't know if it worked for long. His is a '97 X-cab 2wd 4.6L auto.
  • I was wondering if anyone purchased an extended warranty from Ford? If so do they include a
    rental car if the work is covered and will take several days. Thanks in advance
  • merlhmerlh Posts: 8
    I've got a '97 F-150 4.6L extended cab, last fall at about 62,000 miles it developed an engine clatter. To be perfectly honest it's probably my fault, the oil wasn't changed for about 6,000 miles and when it finally was it was running about two quarts low. I've had it into a dealer who claimed it was carbon build-up, charged me to leave it over night and told me to "drive it harder". So now 6,000 miles and two oil changes later the clatter is no better, if anything it's worse.

    My question is, given the oil change/low oil level fiasco I described is there any speculation on where the clatter is coming from? And how long should I expect this engine to survive without major work?

    Thanks.
  • sydney6sydney6 Posts: 64
    I've always thought of a "clatter" sound as coming from valves, and low oil level could be the culprit. I'd also find a new dealer!
  • I bought a used '97 F150 super cab about 3 months ago. It is equipped with the Triton 4.6L engine. While I am very satisfied with the performance of the smaller engine, the fuel mileage is not what I expected. It consistently stays around 13.5 mpg during my usual mixed (city/hwy) driving routine. Once I got 15.3 on a trip with mostly hwy miles. Someone before me added LT265 75R tires, but it shows stock tires were P235 70R. Will this make the mileage go down that much or is 13 MPG just normal for the 4.6L? Anyone out there with experience in this area?
  • lariat1lariat1 Posts: 461
    I used to have a 97 w/4.6 and the best mileage I ever got was 17mpg I had the 17" wheels which were the same size as 265 75 16's.
  • The stock P235 70R tires have a radius measurement (outward from the wheel) of about 6.476 inches (235mm / 25.4mm-per-inch * 0.70).
    The LT265 75R tires have a radius measurement of about 7.825 inches (265mm / 25.4mm-per-inch * 0.75).

    Assuming that both were on 16 inch wheels, the respective circumferences would be 90.958 inches and 99.430 inches, meaning that the new tires are 8.472 inches more in circumference. This means that the original tires would have made about 696.585 revolutions per mile. The new tires would have carried you 1.093 miles in that many revolutions.

    So, assuming I haven't made any horrible math or factual mistakes (and I trust someone will correct me if that is true), that means that your 13.5 mpg is actually more like 14.8 mpg and your 15.3 mpg is more like 16.7 mpg.

    In addition you should notice that everyone else seems to be driving slower than they used to! ;-) (Your speedometer would be under-registering your speed as well as your odometer under-registering your miles.)

    OK, engineers, how did I do on the calculations?
  • sydney6sydney6 Posts: 64
    Your math looks good to me. I would also add that with larger tires that you engine will be working a little more to turn them (as if you had taller gears), resulting in a bit lower mileage.
  • I have a 97 F-150 XL, 4.2L V6 and I have been getting some soot coming out of my exhaust. I can only tell because my whitewalls on my truck have been getting dirty. No codes are showing on the scanner, and everything looks good. Does anyone have any idea?

    So, if I understand this correctly, by taking off the 235 tires and going to 265's (which I did about a month ago), will actually change my speedometer to show that I am actually going faster than it shows? By how much?

    Thanks
  • lariat1lariat1 Posts: 461
    You should expect about a 5.7% change in tach and speedometer readings (slower indication for the same speed) The formula for figuring it out is as follows use 265 75 16 The 265 is the tread width in mm's The 75 is the aspect ratio of the tread width and sidewall height The 16 is the wheel size. Plug the numbers into this...

    (Aspect Ratio x Tread width)
    ____________________________
    25.4 X 2 + 16

    You should come out with a tire diameter of 29.877" for the 235"s and 31.65" for the 265's.
  • I bought a 1999 F-150 Super cab XLT, 2WD, auto, V8, 4 wheel ABS disc brakes, with 3.55 limited slip axle a few weeks ago. The truck had 16k miles on it. Ever since the first day I got it, I have noticed quite a weird thing happening. Every time I come to a complete stop there is a jerk or kick of some kind, almost like a slip. This does not happen during 'California' (rolling) stops - only at stop lights/ signs, etc., when I have to come to a 'complete' stop. This has occurred in both dry and rainy conditions. Has anyone felt this? It is definitely something one would notice.

    HELP! Thanks in advance!
  • emaleemale Posts: 1,380
    ztrucker,

    i think what you are experiencing is pretty common amoung many trucks. my 01' f150 supercrew 4x4 does the same thing. i really don't know what causes it. however, my dad had a 2wd gmc a few years ago that did the same thing. his dealership fixed it by lubricating a sleave somewhere on the driveshaft...just a thought.
  • has anyone else had this happen with the 4.6 engine... start it cold, turn it off, turn it back on and it
    coughs white smoke? I mean, a LOT of white smoke for quite some time... videotaped it and got
    close to three minutes of smoke and water running out the tailpipe.

    this is on an '00 stretch-cab XLT, dealer replaced the long block under warranty at 16K and the new motor
    does it too. been to three different dealers with it, the usual response is "it's fine, don't worry about it, they all do that"... Ford has some kind of buyout assistance program and the dealer where I bought it's been
    working that angle but it's taking way longer than I think it should, under that deal I would have to trade it
    in on another Ford of some kind and I really don't want to do that.

    and my local Dodge dealer is offering me nearly as much to trade it as the Ford store is with the tradein
    assistance. time to cut my losses, I think.
  • I got a 97 F150 with a 5.4L. While under warranty it developed a rattle at startup like a rod coming loose. I convinced the dealer to put in a new engine and it was still there. I decided to do a little investigation. After removing the serpentine belt I discovered the noise was end play in the power steering pump shaft. I am getting 17mpg with mine. Very pleased with it.
  • my overdrive transmission light flashes when i try to turn it off then after a few minutes of driving it won;t come back on.any help would be appreciated. thanks bill
  • garza2garza2 Posts: 1
    i have a 99 f-150 that had its tranny replaced at 35,000 miles.

    now at 60,000 the engine is now being replaced at a cost of $3,000.

    the engine clatter you are experiencing may be due to a bent/broken piston rod.
  • emaleemale Posts: 1,380
    billk317,

    is is just the light that isn't working, or is the button not working...ie...can you shift in and out of overdrive?
  • I have a new 2001 F-150 manual V6 with just a few hundred miles. When I engage the clutch in 1st gear, the truck shudders a little, like the clutch is slipping or grabbing or something. I've tried releasing the clutch pedal more slowly or more quickly, but I can't avoid it. Shifting into all other gears is smooth. Is this just because the clutch is new and has to be broken in?
  • My son has a 95 F-150 4x4 straight six. We recently had to replace the oil pan because it supposedly rusted from the inside out. Ford claims this was a bad year. The alignment was never right and the gas mileage is terrible. We have also replaced the driveshaft and all four shocks. Seems unusual for only 70,000 miles and never taken off-road.
  • The popping sound you are hearing is from the catalytic converter due to cool down. It is not your a/c. This is normal.

    Your Ford Auto Tech,
    Terry

    Keep Driving Fords!
  • If it is an automatic, the torque converter engages when shifted into second gear. This engine was known for bad fuel economy on an average of 12 - 14 mpg. There was a problem with the oil pans that year because the inside of the pan wasn't painted. The new pan has been painted inside. As for the fuel economy, it will always stink!

    Your Ford Auto Tech
    Terry

    Keep Driving Fords!
This discussion has been closed.