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Kia Sportage 2004 and earlier

tlawson50tlawson50 Member Posts: 1
in Kia
My Kia sportage lost power and then just stopped..I had it towed and was told the the timing belt had broke and the result was at least 4 damaged(bent)valves. The cost to repair will be over $2,000. So I had it towed back home and another mechanic says that the timing belt would not bend the values. My question is which mechanic is telling me the truth. The last mechanic said if it had a timing chain then it would bend values but he thinks it is a belt rather than a chain.. I'm confused about this.. please help.
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Comments

  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Gates says your Kia has a timing belt and that it's an interference engine. They also say "an interference engine usually sustains damage if synchronization is lost. This could result in very expensive engine repairs." (link)

    Hope you get it worked out ok!
  • bmorrealebmorreale Member Posts: 7
    that is exactly what happened to mine, however, although it is an interference motor, mine did not bend valves. I've been told i got lucky! good luck
  • vp1973vp1973 Member Posts: 1
    Hello this is my first post.

    Background: My 2001 sport had set for about 4 months well, after replacing the battery I tried in vain to start it. I have used starting fluid and the engine will fire, so i moved on to the fuel system I checked the relay for the fuel pump by swapping it with the other relay. I do not know when the relay should work. I have verified bothe relays work in the left socket but neither will work in the fuel pump socket. i have removed the fule filter and turned over the engine gas did not come out of the fuel lines. I have no experiance with fuel systems.

    Unknowns:

    when Does the fuel pump relay actuate during ignition sequence?

    If the fuel pump is bad will the relay still work?

    How do I test the fuel pump safely?

    Any responses would be greatly appreciated
  • codjer55codjer55 Member Posts: 1
    2002 Kia Sportage - I have over 200,000 Km on mine. I've been throught a lot of problems since my vacuum went on my 4 wheel drive. I too had the hubs flipped. Then a vibration started. Its not balancing, it happened on both winter & summer tires. My mechanic replaced a bearing in the front housing ? I think and spindles. Now he is suggesting replacing the axles. When the hubs are disconnected the vibration is gone but as soon as he engages the 4 wheel drive it returns.When the hubs are flipped it is there. It is getting worse. I brought it home to give him a break. We are both frustrated.
    My second problem is the check engine light. He showed me all the possible codes that could have caused it. He said Chev or Ford would give one exact code. It usually comes on after it has been in park and idling for a period of time. We are thinking ot is the 170 or 171 coded O2 sensors.
    I now understand why the dealership could not figure out why the check engine light kept coming on. Everytime it is something new.
  • rosetterosette Member Posts: 1
    I am looking for a downloadable 97 Kia Sportage Repair Manual.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    One of the links in the Online Repair Manuals guide might work for you.
  • kim48kim48 Member Posts: 3
    You have probably had this fix already, I own a 2001 sportage, The same problem happened to me on the highway. It turned out to be a timing sensor, that in return ruined the timing belt. so both needed to be replaced.
  • lmp4lmp4 Member Posts: 188
    "Gates says ... that it's an interference engine"

    Gates is wrong. This story carries on continually but happily this DOHC is indeed a non-interference engine. That is why all those who neglect to change the belt at 70,000 miles and get stranded in the middle of nowhere at the worst moment just have to get the car towed home, reinstall a new belt and , while they are there, new idler, bender and coolant pump, and just start the engine and go.
    THis has been experienced a lot of times.
    instructions here
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Gates is wrong about my minivan too (supposedly - my belt hasn't broken yet and it's overdue for replacement). Maybe Gates wants to sell belts. :shades:

    That zip file may discourage some people - maybe you can cut and paste it in a Guide? (seems like I dropped that hint once before, lol).

    Thanks for the info!
  • lmp4lmp4 Member Posts: 188
    I'll dig in that guide option soon.....that looks like an interesting feature of this forum. In the mean time, all can browse as they wish here
  • cclaveycclavey Member Posts: 2
    I have a 99 Sportage EX 4 wheel drive where the cruise control and the rear window defroster have quit working over the years. Can anyone shed light on whether these items share a wiring route into the fuse box? The mechanic wants to spend $88 an hour to work the problems past the whole "fuses are good, fuse box is powered" step.

    Additionally, the top adjusting button for the mirrors has never worked. Can that also be loose with the other two connections or am I really looking at three separate items?

    Am I better off taking it back to the Kia dealer or will my Goodyear guy eventually be paid enough to research the problem, open a wiring diagram, and find the loose wire loom?

    Electrical problems cheese me out with any car. Otherwise, it's a trooper. I have the same acceleration problems and tire vibration issues as I've read here. (People at stop lights hate me and my pokey car.)
  • cclaveycclavey Member Posts: 2
    I've posted about the electrical problem I've got, now on to the cosmetic issues. The weather here has taken it's toll on the manual shift stick cover... Pleather or leather, I'm not sure... but the stick and four wheel select stick cover is disintegrating. Where can I buy a replacement??!
  • lmp4lmp4 Member Posts: 188
    Cruise and RW defogger share common fuse
    circuit
    but I think you would have a lot more components dead if problem came from upstream.
    Youcan check all diagrams at kia company site registration is free.
  • durango2durango2 Member Posts: 1
    I have 4x4 Kia Sportage and the hubs are not locking in but the front axles are turning
    does anyone else have this problem???
  • lmp4lmp4 Member Posts: 188
    What year is your SPorty?
    DO you have the original vacuum type ?
    Search in the "rapairs and maintenance"..there are several posts relevant of that case.
  • gwynbgwynb Member Posts: 1
    my timing belt snapped, it was replaced. before that i had a tune up. just recently i replaced valve cover gasket, plugs and wires. i have major power loss, especially on hills. suggested to have timing adjusted. i just want to know if that will fix my problem, or if i should be getting something else checked?
  • lmp4lmp4 Member Posts: 188
    Is your check engine light ON? THis little buddy is extremely sensitive to spark problems..but this would very easily throw a code.
    Was it ever working normally after the timing belt replacement? As such, the only "adjustment" is to have it installed properly, period. Any doubts there must be cleared, if any.
  • lmp4lmp4 Member Posts: 188
    ....(cont)...and check posts under "repair and maintenance" on this forum for timing belt info or see this one
  • chrisa222chrisa222 Member Posts: 17
    Hi Guys,

    I'm considering purchasing a 2002 Sportage 4x4 Converible w/5 speed manual as a second car. It looks good..60K miles, for $4000. The price scares me because it is so low, haha.

    Any thoughts? Have you guys have good luck with your Sportages? Has it been reliable? What should I expect for gas milage?

    Any input is appreciated. My email is chrisa222@yahoo.com if anyone wants to write me an email instead of posting here. I'd love to hear any opinions. I have a Hyundai Azera as my main car and understand its the same "parent" company that makes Kia. My Azera has been great to me.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    write me an email instead of posting here.

    That would deprive our other members of valuable information. :)

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • lmp4lmp4 Member Posts: 188
    There is no neutral opinion about this Sportage: one loves it, the other hates it. Front vacuum hubs were a problem at least until 2000..I read new seals were used in 2001-2002 that made them more reliable..but hubs are easily replaced with other type, and anyway, it does not stop you from driving 2WD ...and the price you have allows for 200-300$ if a swap proves necessary.
    Car..well..it is more a truck, with a sturdy frame...develops oddities with fuel suppply and spark....and generates codes quite easily...so if the CHeck ENgine Light is not ON, that is a good start....
    Fuel economy is not up to what most expect. My 3800 Pontiac Transport has a better mileage. Engine is sluggish below 4000rpm, but a 5speed shifter will help a lot on that compared to an automatic.
    ..And Hyundai took over only with the new model. THis one was a real KIA, with a Mazda based engine.
  • harley19harley19 Member Posts: 7
    97 sportage, daughter driving it , car shuts off and wont restart, she tows it home, i look at and notice the crankshaft pully actually moved forward and took all the belts off and took out timing belt with it, the car turns over so i know the crank is not broke. any help?
  • ssoperatorssoperator Member Posts: 4
    Most vehicles with a timing belt (which is to say most small foriegn vehicles and many small domestic ones) with recieve engine damage if the timing belt beaks. The mechanic that told you that a timing chain would cause damage if it broke is full of bull, because the primary cause of timing chain problems is not breakage but stretching over time causing the engine to be out of time (synch as your mechinic put it although i've never heard it described that way. Although it causes an engine to run roughly and sooner or later not at all, stretched timing chains will not cause the damage that a broken timing belt would and are easily replaced. That being said the best course for a timing belt equipped engine is maintenance and replacing the belt, or having it replaced, at the factory specified intervals even if it doesn't look bad as the cost of the belt replacement pales to the cost of rebuilding an engine or replacing it. If the belt can be inspected it should be on a regular basis. The belt should be replaced if it is craked split or appears very worn most OE's specify this at approx. every 50000 miles no matter what. :shades:
  • jon1099jon1099 Member Posts: 3
    My 2001 sportage is misfiring and running poorly on and off. the check engine light is on and code says random misfire on # 3 and 4. sometimes will run okay, then will surge (suddenly have power again) or sometimes all but die and start to back-fire (engine light starts to blink on and off about then). Have replaced plugs, both coil packs and plug wires. had timing belt changed within last two years, less then 30k miles since. total miles is 114K. problem is worse w/ A/C on and/or under load. Dealer told me today that he can't tell me anything else without a few hundred $ on tests. :mad:
    Any ideas? You can contact me direct at jon1099@hotmail.com
    thanks
  • lmp4lmp4 Member Posts: 188
    ALl symptoms definitely show spark problem.. Very sensitive to humidity...train hair dryer over coils and plug wires. Also, oil intrusion from cam/valve cover gasket is a common problem and can contaminate spark plugs starting with #4...then 3....I would open the valve cover (more annoying than difficult) and check that out....
    link title
  • jon1099jon1099 Member Posts: 3
    I have replaced plus, wires and coils at same time and no better, so not humidity. problem always gets worse under load, uphill or with AC on. Tending to think timing belt off a tooth, but acts more electrical.
    Any other ideas. :confuse:
    thanks for the input
    Jon
  • harley19harley19 Member Posts: 7
    how do you line up timing marks on the 2.0, and how do get the belt around the lower pully
  • lmp4lmp4 Member Posts: 188
    image
    image
    image

    Not done yet on mine...to come soon...but read these instructions... lower cover seems to be still there on photo above, but obviously, it must me taken off since crank balancer needs to be removed as per instructions...when I do mine, I'll take photos...but if you can take pictures, it might also help others....and myself...
    instructions
    ..
  • lmp4lmp4 Member Posts: 188
    ... indeed I'd check T_belt, as imprperly timed valves caould let exhaust from one cyinder stray into another and cause backfires and this would show more under load....but no garantee. The idea is to clear the option so one can look at other things without the possibility of this cause still hanging over your head. Your findings can be very helpfull for others...so keep us posted.
  • harley19harley19 Member Posts: 7
    what happened was the crankshaft pully bolt loosened up and the pully came forward and pulled all the belts off with it, it messed up the timing blt but did not break it, now im trying to get the pully all the way off and clean it up to put it back on.
  • maaermaaer Member Posts: 1
    I'll be driving when my temp gauge drops to C and the car slows down, I've noticed rust in the radiator when I remove the cap, if I flush the radiator will that solve the problem? Maaer
    Also where is the drain plug for the radiator is there a diagram? Thanks All
  • dmiah298dmiah298 Member Posts: 8
    I have a 1997 Sportage that does the same thing. I took it to the parts store where they ran the codes and said it was my mass air flow sensor. They said that the misfires and backfires are from the air to idle ratio, and that it can cause major issues if it isn't fixed... Soon!! Car doesn't idle well, when a/c is on it almost shut off, and it goes extremely slow when going up hill. It costs about $160, pretty expensive, but it will save on trying to replace everything else just to find that it was that all along. I would try that before you change anything else.
  • jon1099jon1099 Member Posts: 3
    Good idea, I hate to drop that kind of cash on a maybe, but a good direction to go.
    Thanks, :)
    Jon
  • dmiah298dmiah298 Member Posts: 8
    I found the sensor online for $ 50. They UPS it and I got it within 2 days. Very safe. Unfortunately- that wasn't my problem. And now we took apart the care and replaced the spark plugs, but still not working. I HATE KIA"I love the outdoors, cookouts, and swimming. I HATE KIA"S!!!! I have never had this many problems with any car that I have owned.
  • dresseldressel Member Posts: 1
    I have an '02 Sportage with 42500 miles and I want to change the plugs, tune-up, etc. The problem is I can't even find them and finding a manual is like pulling teeth. :confuse: Can anyone point me in the right direction before I pull whatever hair out that I have left?
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Try Online Repair Manuals.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • Butt3rflzButt3rflz Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 Sportage 4x4. It is stalling out on me. There is no rhyme or reason to the stalling. Just simply dies while driving, with in the first 3-5 minutes on the road. Takes a few times to get the car to start after it dies.
    I have replaced the following:
    O2 Sensor
    Fuel Filter
    Plugs-Wires
    Boots(they are part of the plugs/wires i guess?)
    Battery
    Altenator
    I dont know what else to do? it wont show on diagnostics what the problem is?

    Any Suggestions ???
  • pmoserpmoser Member Posts: 2
    Tail lights not working i have dash lights and everything else fuse is ok there is no power to running lights front or back any ideas out there
  • barkmen79barkmen79 Member Posts: 1
    :sick: i hit some back to back bumps and after when i push on the gas it chugs but if i push it really softly it gos fine so i changed the spark plugs and fuel filter with no luck
  • bkirbeybkirbey Member Posts: 5
    replaced my clutch and after reassembly had no fire but had fuel. Replaced fuel relay, main power fuse, power relay and now have fire but can't get fuel pump to work. Hot wire to pump shows its good but nothing when trying to start. No cycling of pump and all fuses and relays good. any ideas??????
  • lmp4lmp4 Member Posts: 188
    ..my brother in law had his clutch changed recently..was a Dodge Dakota...and had no fire after. A wire had been pinched when reinstalling clutch bellhousing. YOu have the crank position sensor mounted on the bell housing: essential for fire and fuel. Check for connection, damage, wire routing.
    image
  • bkirbeybkirbey Member Posts: 5
    Checked all wires and replaced relays and fuses and still get no signal to fuel pump to cycle. Is there more than one relay for f.p.? Doles anyone have a diagram of wiring to fuel pump or know where to get one. Kia dealer in my area is 80 miles away and said to bring it in for diagnostics!!!! any ideas???
  • lmp4lmp4 Member Posts: 188
    diagram
    injectors
    detail

    IS the Check Engine light ON?....if positive, can you read the codes ?
  • JustCampingJustCamping Member Posts: 2
    Does anyone have an owners manual to a 2000 kia sportage -
    5speed 4 w/d so we can find out i we can flat tow it behind a motor home.

    KIA called and told us they don't recommend it - but we've gotten at least 5 yes's with different ways to do it. Do not have a manual to look at though.
  • lmp4lmp4 Member Posts: 188
    With an automatic, there is indeed a "potential" problem because there is no transfer case OFF (N) position (in fact there is a neutral position, but without a click stop, so this is an unstable condition)..which means the output shaft of the transmission and clutches would rotate with the rear wheels, a risk of cooking the trasnmission clutches.
    But with the 5 speed manual, you have an OFF position on the T-case ; once in OFF (N), nothing comes ahead of the T-case output shaft and there is positively no problem towing the Sporty behind, and nothing mechanically speaking would justify the opposite.

    INdeed the owners manual has a "overall" recommandation telling not to tow with the rear wheels turning, but they do not specify the transmisison type; later they say it can be towed with t-case in N (for the manual)...or 2H for the AUTO, with transmission in N...and they add "for a short distance", but this is as simplistic as one can imagine and is justified for the AUTO transmission, not the 5 speed. They just want to save their head, "just in case"....

    THose with an automatic transmission either remove the rear driving shaft.....or tow at low speed, stopping from time to time (say every 30 min) to start the engine and circulate transmission fluid to keep the clutches lubricated.

    The subject has been debated a dozen times in other forums too.

    HERE is an example
  • JustCampingJustCamping Member Posts: 2
    Just want to thank you for the towing information - its great to have help with this stuff.
  • harley19harley19 Member Posts: 7
    1996 kia sportage, 4 wheel drive doesnt work, i can hear the transfer case going in but it doesnt get to the front wheels, any help
  • lmp4lmp4 Member Posts: 188
    You can look back in previous similar threads in the adjacent " maintenance and repair" section ...but as I just replied a similar problem today HERE
    ..read info and come back here for other questions if needed.
  • bkirbeybkirbey Member Posts: 5
    no codes in system. Replaced ecm as kia said that was the problem. No change. Found an ecu-etwis in front of shifter under console, but can't find out what this does or if it could be problem. KIA dealer service manager said he can replace it ( for $200) but doesn't know what it's function is. I am starting to think they hire anyone without automotive knowledge to be their mechanics and managers!!! Has anyone heard of this piece (ecu-etwis) or if it could be involved?
  • lmp4lmp4 Member Posts: 188
    ETACS and ETWIS are synomynous.
    Electronic Time and Alarm COntrol System
    Electronic Time and Warning Indication System
    THis controls alarms, door lock control, remote control...etc.
    register (free) to www.kiatechinfo.com and search for your car model

    THis "no fuel problem" plagues a lot of sporty owners but I suspect antitheft control might be involved. Noone ever came with a clue once he solved the problem...or maybe no one did...
    ...are all transmission connecetors checked out properly in place ?..mmm..well the starter would not even activate if it were not the case....

    p.s. I had replied to your duplicate post but removed it to avoid the confusion of parrallel threads....
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