Kia Sportage 2004 and earlier
My Kia sportage lost power and then just stopped..I had it towed and was told the the timing belt had broke and the result was at least 4 damaged(bent)valves. The cost to repair will be over $2,000. So I had it towed back home and another mechanic says that the timing belt would not bend the values. My question is which mechanic is telling me the truth. The last mechanic said if it had a timing chain then it would bend values but he thinks it is a belt rather than a chain.. I'm confused about this.. please help.
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Hope you get it worked out ok!
Background: My 2001 sport had set for about 4 months well, after replacing the battery I tried in vain to start it. I have used starting fluid and the engine will fire, so i moved on to the fuel system I checked the relay for the fuel pump by swapping it with the other relay. I do not know when the relay should work. I have verified bothe relays work in the left socket but neither will work in the fuel pump socket. i have removed the fule filter and turned over the engine gas did not come out of the fuel lines. I have no experiance with fuel systems.
Unknowns:
when Does the fuel pump relay actuate during ignition sequence?
If the fuel pump is bad will the relay still work?
How do I test the fuel pump safely?
Any responses would be greatly appreciated
My second problem is the check engine light. He showed me all the possible codes that could have caused it. He said Chev or Ford would give one exact code. It usually comes on after it has been in park and idling for a period of time. We are thinking ot is the 170 or 171 coded O2 sensors.
I now understand why the dealership could not figure out why the check engine light kept coming on. Everytime it is something new.
Gates is wrong. This story carries on continually but happily this DOHC is indeed a non-interference engine. That is why all those who neglect to change the belt at 70,000 miles and get stranded in the middle of nowhere at the worst moment just have to get the car towed home, reinstall a new belt and , while they are there, new idler, bender and coolant pump, and just start the engine and go.
THis has been experienced a lot of times.
instructions here
That zip file may discourage some people - maybe you can cut and paste it in a Guide? (seems like I dropped that hint once before, lol).
Thanks for the info!
Additionally, the top adjusting button for the mirrors has never worked. Can that also be loose with the other two connections or am I really looking at three separate items?
Am I better off taking it back to the Kia dealer or will my Goodyear guy eventually be paid enough to research the problem, open a wiring diagram, and find the loose wire loom?
Electrical problems cheese me out with any car. Otherwise, it's a trooper. I have the same acceleration problems and tire vibration issues as I've read here. (People at stop lights hate me and my pokey car.)
circuit
but I think you would have a lot more components dead if problem came from upstream.
Youcan check all diagrams at kia company site registration is free.
does anyone else have this problem???
DO you have the original vacuum type ?
Search in the "rapairs and maintenance"..there are several posts relevant of that case.
Was it ever working normally after the timing belt replacement? As such, the only "adjustment" is to have it installed properly, period. Any doubts there must be cleared, if any.
I'm considering purchasing a 2002 Sportage 4x4 Converible w/5 speed manual as a second car. It looks good..60K miles, for $4000. The price scares me because it is so low, haha.
Any thoughts? Have you guys have good luck with your Sportages? Has it been reliable? What should I expect for gas milage?
Any input is appreciated. My email is chrisa222@yahoo.com if anyone wants to write me an email instead of posting here. I'd love to hear any opinions. I have a Hyundai Azera as my main car and understand its the same "parent" company that makes Kia. My Azera has been great to me.
That would deprive our other members of valuable information.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Car..well..it is more a truck, with a sturdy frame...develops oddities with fuel suppply and spark....and generates codes quite easily...so if the CHeck ENgine Light is not ON, that is a good start....
Fuel economy is not up to what most expect. My 3800 Pontiac Transport has a better mileage. Engine is sluggish below 4000rpm, but a 5speed shifter will help a lot on that compared to an automatic.
..And Hyundai took over only with the new model. THis one was a real KIA, with a Mazda based engine.
Any ideas? You can contact me direct at jon1099@hotmail.com
thanks
link title
Any other ideas. :confuse:
thanks for the input
Jon
Not done yet on mine...to come soon...but read these instructions... lower cover seems to be still there on photo above, but obviously, it must me taken off since crank balancer needs to be removed as per instructions...when I do mine, I'll take photos...but if you can take pictures, it might also help others....and myself...
instructions
..
Also where is the drain plug for the radiator is there a diagram? Thanks All
Thanks,
Jon
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
I have replaced the following:
O2 Sensor
Fuel Filter
Plugs-Wires
Boots(they are part of the plugs/wires i guess?)
Battery
Altenator
I dont know what else to do? it wont show on diagnostics what the problem is?
Any Suggestions ???
injectors
detail
IS the Check Engine light ON?....if positive, can you read the codes ?
5speed 4 w/d so we can find out i we can flat tow it behind a motor home.
KIA called and told us they don't recommend it - but we've gotten at least 5 yes's with different ways to do it. Do not have a manual to look at though.
But with the 5 speed manual, you have an OFF position on the T-case ; once in OFF (N), nothing comes ahead of the T-case output shaft and there is positively no problem towing the Sporty behind, and nothing mechanically speaking would justify the opposite.
INdeed the owners manual has a "overall" recommandation telling not to tow with the rear wheels turning, but they do not specify the transmisison type; later they say it can be towed with t-case in N (for the manual)...or 2H for the AUTO, with transmission in N...and they add "for a short distance", but this is as simplistic as one can imagine and is justified for the AUTO transmission, not the 5 speed. They just want to save their head, "just in case"....
THose with an automatic transmission either remove the rear driving shaft.....or tow at low speed, stopping from time to time (say every 30 min) to start the engine and circulate transmission fluid to keep the clutches lubricated.
The subject has been debated a dozen times in other forums too.
HERE is an example
..read info and come back here for other questions if needed.
Electronic Time and Alarm COntrol System
Electronic Time and Warning Indication System
THis controls alarms, door lock control, remote control...etc.
register (free) to www.kiatechinfo.com and search for your car model
THis "no fuel problem" plagues a lot of sporty owners but I suspect antitheft control might be involved. Noone ever came with a clue once he solved the problem...or maybe no one did...
...are all transmission connecetors checked out properly in place ?..mmm..well the starter would not even activate if it were not the case....
p.s. I had replied to your duplicate post but removed it to avoid the confusion of parrallel threads....