Toyota Tacoma Starting/Stalling/Idling Problems

bobtoybobtoy Member Posts: 1
edited July 2018 in Toyota
I have a 2000 v6 Tacoma. Three days ago I could only get it up to 60mph. Then it started running fine. I drove it about 100 miles an no problem I drove it a litte the next day with no problem. The third day I could only go about 40 mph. I changed the fuel filter and it ran fine. I went out to start it and it would not start. It has spark. I also unhooked the fuel line and it shot gas every where. Hook the gas line back up and nothing. It will turn over and not start. Need some help


  • jmarquezjmarquez Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2006 Tacoma Pre-runner just 9 months out of the dealer and I have a hard start problem. In the morning, when it has not been started since the day before, the engine takes a long time to start. Some times I have to turn the key a second time and then its starts. The rest of the day is starts just fine. I don't think it is cold weather or anything, since I live in Puerto Rico.

    I took it to the dealer a few months ago, and of course they said there was nothing wrong. I read in a few threads in this webpage about the same problem with 03-04 Tacomas (see message #1976 at the Toyota Tacoma: Problem and Solutions), and it was somehting about the "fuel suction assembly". Does anyone know of any TSB's regarding this problem for '06 Tacomas or does anyone know what could be wrong?
  • bm1985mitchbm1985mitch Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2006 Toyota Tacoma TRD SR5 Off-Road Edition, 4.0L V6 5speed automatic. I am experiencing problems when accelerating from about 45-55mph and 70mph or above. When I hit the pedal for a little throttle action it jumps and acts as though it is misfiring and stalls somewhat. I am not a mechanic and dealing with Toyota dealerships for a possible problem is sometimes not worth it, but they will have to fix whatever is wrong because it is under warranty. Anyone know of a possible problem? Thanks!
  • toyoyotoyoyo Member Posts: 1
    I have a 97 Tacoma 2.7L. When driving at highway speeds for no reason the truck sometimes cuts out or feels like a miss. It seems to happen in most gears but is most noticeable in 3rd, 4th, 5th. What could this be?

    I have had a tune up, fuel system flush. They checked the coils. Still nothing. It's at the shop now and the bill is growing! Can any one help?
  • redrt88redrt88 Member Posts: 2
    My Tacoma lurches forward after I come to a complete stop. I have had the transmission checked by a transmission repair shop and the dealer and they say is could be loose linkage, but nothing to worry about. Has anyone else had this issue?
  • adk1adk1 Member Posts: 2
    My 1999 truck does the same thing, if you find anything on this let me know.
  • nlstevenlsteve Member Posts: 2
    I just met another '95 Tacoma owner with the same problem as mine.
    My pickup (4 cyl., manual, 235k) runs fine in cool weather. But in hot weather, after running for a while, it often won't re-start after being parked briefly. It will turn over but not catch. A couple of mechanics haven't been able to spot the trouble.

    This has been going on for a couple of years & I just deal with it. With about a five minute wait and another attempt it usually starts OK.
  • shadetree41shadetree41 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 tacoma 2.4 cyl that I bought from my Dad w/181k. The truck runs great unless it is raining, or there is moisture in the air. After it is parked overnight and it rains during the night, it will have these symptoms. Rough idle and it wants to stall? On sunny days it runs like a champ? Where would be the first componet to check? Mass airflow sensor? plug wires? Any sugestions would be great.

    Thanks for your time,
  • bobwhitebobwhite Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2008 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 Access Cab v6 4.0L, that has the same problem with the starting, My truck has a grand total of 1200km's on it, I've had it for less then 3 weeks. The truck takes 2-3 tries of turning the key for the engine to start. When the truck does finally start, it works great. [non-permissible content removed] Crap or what?
  • sailracer2sailracer2 Member Posts: 1
    Have had a 98, a 2001, and 2007. All have done that. I find that it's mostly due to the A/C Compressor kicking in while at a stop causing the RPM's to increase momentarily making it feel like a lurch.
  • tah3600tah3600 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 2000 tacoma gas milage was bad 15 miles to gal i tried to change plugs took one out decied i couldnt do it then next day truck had bad miss took to garage they checked it out hooked it to mach changed plugs seemed to help but it didnt now when iam driving it will jump bad like it is missing worst between 45-55 and some times when taking off but not always also when i start it when engine is cold it seems to run ok
  • sally49sally49 Member Posts: 1
    Hi everyone...Just wondering if anyone else has experienced this problem. I have a 2007 Tacoma 4x4 purchased in August.. In late Nov. I went out to my truck and it would not start. Tried several times to no avail. The tow truck driver tried also. It had to be flatbedded to my local dealer. It started right up for them. It was decided that the EGR valve was defective and they "told " us they replaced it. We took the vehicle home after a week. A week later, the same thing happened.[Apparently nothing was done the fiirst time.] After several tries, it started and my husband drove it to the dealership. This time it was determined to be the alarm we had installed thru them. They had the vehicle two weeks for this probelm. And then last week (Jan 5) did it again and had to be flatbedded into the dealer again. It started right up for them. They are at a loss and we don't know what to do. Any ideas anyone? Thanks for any info
  • slee5slee5 Member Posts: 6
    Replace your spark plug wires, It is miss fire due to the spark is leak thru the wire insulation. if you turn your car at darkroom you might be able to see where the arc is between the wires or to the chasse.
  • scorleyscorley Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Tacoma DBL Cab Prerunner that Idles rough. I use Royal Purple 5w-30 synthetic motor oil and Bosch Platinum 4 prong spark plugs. I have 107,000 miles on the truck.
  • plm2plm2 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 97 Tacoma with a 2.4L and auto trans.The idle drops to the point the whole truck shakes.This happens when in in drive not in park.I have performed a complete tune-up using factory parts.New plugs,wires and etc.The motor mounts are good.I have ran complete diag with my scan tool,which shows live data and there are no codes present.I have cleand the IAC valve and throttal body.There are no vaccum leaks and the engine timming is correct.If you step on the gas pedal slightly,the engine idle feels perfect.Other notes, the fuel pressure is correct and the PCV valve is new.There is no idle adjustment procedure on the hood sticker or in my Haynes manual.Can the idle be adjusted without interfearing with the electronic engine control? :confuse:
  • slee5slee5 Member Posts: 6
    Have you change gas filter? other thing from my expirence is buy a can of CRC Mass Air Flow sensor cleaner from any autopart store($4.50), follow the instruction on the can spray the sensor (never touch sensor with anything) The sensor is mounted on the short duct behind the air filter. It work well for my Tocoma, it smooth the rough idle. give it a try and let me know if this work for you.
  • deesdrdeesdr Member Posts: 2
    I had the exact problem on a dodge caravan, wrecker tow and all...turned out to be the fuel pump locking up. the tow truck ride jarred it loose.
    good luck. replaced fuel pump and all ok.
  • deesdrdeesdr Member Posts: 2
    had the same prob with mine, no one could help..found the answer on a message board. the u joint has a slip joint where it comes off the hogg head. pump it full of grease each time you change the motor oil and your problem will disappear.
    good luck.
  • dan704dan704 Member Posts: 1
    Hi, same problem, starts and idles fine, good acceleration, but at low throttle pressure it bucks and jerks noticably. tech ran every test he could think with no answers. said maybe the "check engine light" will come on which could lead to a diagnosis.
  • fiddycentfiddycent Member Posts: 8
    It could be that you clutch is not fully depressed or you may need to push the over-ride button on the lower left side of the dash which bypasses the the need to depress the clutch at all. Just make sure that the truck is out of gear when you do.
  • fiddycentfiddycent Member Posts: 8
    You can loosen the lock nut below the cam where you throttle cable attaches and turn the set screw in slightly. Not the by the book method but it works. :)
  • fiddycentfiddycent Member Posts: 8
    Most likely the distributor cap has micro-cracks in it. You can replace the cap/rotor button for under 30 dollars. It could be the wires but not likely unless they have been bent at a 90 degree angle. Try spraying just the cap with WD-40 (with motor off of course) Try starting it and see how it runs. Then spray the wires. (motor off) It dissipates moisture and can save you money/time by not diagnosing by VISA.
  • fiddycentfiddycent Member Posts: 8
    If you didn't moisten the filter with gas prior to installation...that could be the problem. The fuel pressure is high enough to blow the paper filter to shreds which in turn can plug injectors...not a pretty sight. Pull one of the injectors to see if you have a nice even cone spray.
  • fiddycentfiddycent Member Posts: 8
    Sounds like the fuel pump is dying or possibly the pump relay is loose/going bad :cry:
  • fiddycentfiddycent Member Posts: 8
    Might want to try testing the ohm readings between the two pins. It should be between 25-34. Then test between both pins and ground (housing). Should have no continuity If you purchase the pdf on ebay, it will walk you thru all the diagnostics from A-Z
  • blaine3blaine3 Member Posts: 5
    Does anyone know how to replace the statert on a 01 v6 prerunner??? I found it but i just can't seem to get to the two bolts holding it in, is there a special way?
  • fiddycentfiddycent Member Posts: 8
    Try going at it under the fenderwell. Should be a little flap that you can undo to access it. I had to take mine out in a couple pieces because of the length but the new model went right in. They trimmed about a 1/4" of it. :blush:
  • pjc_00pjc_00 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 toyota Tacoma 197,000 miles and recently the truck starts to stall when I release the clutch in first gear, after I get going it seems to work fine. Any suggestions. thanks
  • eurockyeurocky Member Posts: 1
    Toyota tacoma 2002, truck sometimes won't start unless I push the gas pedal three times sometimes twice, it always starts in the morning ( except for a couple of times) or after not running for a while, it has never die on me, runs good, once it starts it won't re start sometimes after driving as little as 5 minutes or as long as 1 hour, it happens in hot or cold weather, with the gas tank full or almost empty and lastly sometimes i hear clicking noises from underneath the dashboard I think from the passenger side..... help!!!!!!!!!
  • tacoderektacoderek Member Posts: 1
    I have same exact problem on 96 Tacoma. I think fuel line is cavitating? At least that's what mechanic told me after diagnosis. So had fuel pump replaced, problem still persists. Put fuel injector cleaner in fuel, problem still persists. What's the deal, anyone?
  • tsaulstsauls Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 Tacoma 4cyl 5speed that is spitting and sputtering like there is water in the gas but it's not. I have changed the plugs,wires,fuel filter,and coil packs but am still having this problem. I have put it on a computer and drove around but there are no codes been giving at all.
  • wirephr3qwirephr3q Member Posts: 2
    I have an 02 tacoma 3.4 V-6. It runs great. Except when you turn the right turn signal on while the blower motor is running in any speed. Ive traced all the wiring diagrams out and can not find any relation to all of this concerning why it would stall out. I eliminated the signals out of the circuit by unplugging them, now it stalls when headlights are on with blower on. so I unplug lights, the next weakest link is the blower motor. So I try unplugging it or the resistor, and the truck wont start at all.
    In the beginning of diagnosis, I found that a ground wire on the right turn signal will turn to power when the blower motor is turned on, (this is when the truck stalls also). So I know I have a ground shorted to hot. The only thing I have left in the complete circuit is the ECM, that is the only place that the blower circuit and other circuits could possibly be related to eachother. Help me Please.
  • 1knight1knight Member Posts: 2
    Hello, I know that in the state of georgia we have what is called a lemon law where as if a new vehicle has a serious problem that the dealer cannot or will not be able to repair then you can return the vehicle to the dealer for a full refund. you might want to check into your states law concerning this issue.
  • bar6bar6 Member Posts: 1
    I have 2003 Tacoma xtra cab 4x4 5spd manual supercharged with 7th injector, headers, and cold air intake(injen) with 45k mi with starting issues. When ever I don't start the truck for two days or more, when it is cold in the mornings, or when ever it feels like it, it wont start. It'll take 2-3 tries to start and when it does the check engine light comes on and it'll make clicking sound in the throttle body area. After that it'll start good with the check engine light on and on the 4th start the check engine light turns off. It did this before (when it had warranty) I had the mods installed on a couple of times but the check engine light never came on. A couple of months back I took the truck to the dealer with the light on ( and of course the light turned off when their tech started the truck) and could not find anything wrong but did say that it might be the cold air intake with the supercharger, so I installed the stock intake and still did the same thing. And also the rpms drop to about 500 or below when ever I turn on the headlights and drop even more when I step on the brakes(especially at a stop light). I've changed the battery (replaced it with an OPTIMA YELLOW TOP) to see if that would help, fuel filter, spark plugs, spark plug wires and coils, starter. It does this even with a full tank of gas and I have always used 91 oct on it. CAN ANYBODY PLEASE HELP ME WITH ANY SOLUTIONS.
  • 1936johnt1936johnt Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 Toyota Pickup 4cyl. that won't start after its hot and been running for awhile. It starts after it sits for 5-10 minutes. It has 235,000 miles and seems strong when its running. It burns clean and passes smog checks. I recently replaced the fuel filter and put in fresh spark plugs and the problem still persists. Anyone with ideas to cure this frustrating problem ?
  • chivitochivito Member Posts: 2
    I've heard of a few other people who were having this problem but I have not seen a solution: My 96, 4 cylinder Tacoma often won't start when the engine AND weather are hot. No problem all winter but as soon as the temp reaches 60 or so and after the engine is nice and hot it won't turn over after sitting for 10-30 minutes. After another 10 minutes or so I can eventually get it to start but it's a big pain. 255,000 miles and it's still running pretty nice otherwise, though...
  • skpkskpk Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 Toyota T100 and it doing the same problem. Have you find out the problem. Please share.

  • chivitochivito Member Posts: 2
    Nobody has replied on this forum and I have not figured it out yet. Someone in a parking lot told me that they had a similar problem with a Chevy and it was a heat sensor in the fuel pump (or that controlled the fuel pump.) He listened when I tried to start it and said the fuel pump was not going on so he thought I had the same problem. I am telling my mechanic about that next time I take it to j=him.

    Of course I can never get it to happen at the garage...
  • nlstevenlsteve Member Posts: 2
    I'm not sure if my '95 Tacoma 4 cyl. is having exactly the same problem as yours.

    On a warm or hot day, after it has been driven for a while, it often won't start again after it has been parked for a while. This is not an issue in cool weather.

    It does "turn over" (the starter is running) but the engine does not catch and start. It's hard to say for sure, but it seems like if I flood it a bit while cranking it over, it will SOMETIMES catch and start. So maybe it is a problem related to heat and the fuel pump.

    I, too, have had it at the mechanic with no success. Open to suggestions.
  • smuddysmuddy Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 Toyota Taco that intermittently sputters while driving. It doesn't happen at any particular speed or in any weather conditions but seems to be most prevelant when I am accelerating after changing gears or accelerating in 5th at highway speeds. New Wires and Plugs are the most recent change and I'm wondering if I have the plugs gapped correctly. Anyone know what the proper Gap should be? With 121K on the motor and some striking visual enhancements she's a fine looking and running ride overall. People give me grief for haulin' my Harley in the back when me and the Ol' Gal go on trips but they can't beat the gas mileage even with the A/C on in the heat of South Mississippi. Gimme your best guess... Thanks! :shades:
  • jpfjpf Member Posts: 496
    Sounds like a leaky fuel injector. Your engine gets flooded with fuel after you run it for awhile and then it doesn't statrt. When the the excess fuel evaporates after it sits longer it starts up. Have your mechanic check the injectors. Good luck.
  • mtsusmtsus Member Posts: 1
    You need to replace your air temp sensor, on my '95 it is on friction fit plug sensor on the left size of the air filter box. I have been having this problem for awhile. Been waiting for a hot day to check it. Today was that day.
    To double check it, when it won't start unplug the sensor (electric clip) and it should start, it will trip the check engine light, but it fires right up. Once it was running I plugged it back in and it still worked. The part is $45 to $70 depending on mfg or store, anyone can replace it without tools. good luck
  • surinder61surinder61 Member Posts: 1
    Thanks a lot man, I have the same problem with my 95 Tacoma Truck and it's been driving me nuts. Replaced whole bunch of part and the problem is still there. I will try your solution and back.
  • buffer4294buffer4294 Member Posts: 5
    I have changed fuel pump, fuel filter, wires, distr. cap, rotar button, fuel regulator still problem exists. Cranks great when engine is cold, but once it gets hot and you turn engine off and let sit for 5-10 minutes it is a hard to start. It takes a long time to turn if over. I had ignition module checked it was ok. Could it be ignition coil going bad? I have been told most of time if it was coil would not crank at all? Please help!!! Thanks
  • wirephr3qwirephr3q Member Posts: 2
    sounds like it may be the cold start injector or the cold start time switch... the timer looks just like a temp sensor, and is right next to the temp sensor at the back of the engine behind the intake( close to where the old chevys had theyre distributors), anyhow take this and unplug it first to see if it makes a difference? then remove it and test it with a multimeter, you can get the specs out of a chiltons, i.e. u need a thermometer and bowl of boiling water to check the full range of the switch. anyhow, u can just replace it if u dont want to go through the trouble os testing it to see if it is good. that should help/ fix your problem thoug. by the way, you do have the 3.0 v-6 correct. if not the switch is in a different location, but still basically called the same thing
  • buffer4294buffer4294 Member Posts: 5
    My Tacoma is a 2.4 engine. Is this part the same as the engine coolant temp. sensor? Thanks
  • kidoinacomakidoinacoma Member Posts: 2
    I have the same truck...I brought mine to the dealer for the same problem you are having...they said my fuel pump is going out...they tested the fuel rail it should be at 40 psi +- mine was at 10 ...being that i drive 55 miles one way to work truck is out of warranty...the new fuel pump can only be purchased from the dealer go figure....its about 671.00 here in la. it also throws the AFR..Air fuel racial sensors off also...the 2 above the catylatic converter and those 2 if bad are about 400+ each..if they are bad good luck getting them out...they usually break...bout 800 for new if under warranty let them fix it and please let me know the outcome my truck is still on ramps at my house due to bad fuel pump i hope.
  • kidoinacomakidoinacoma Member Posts: 2
    I do not have a rough idle i have a slow acceleration problem I did change the mass air flow sensor no change brought it back to autozone got refund then brought truck to fuel pump is bad and its in the tank I should say it was i removed it ..and now i am searching for one before go broke and go to the wants arm ,leg,and two kids for oem part this is nuts...that the dealer is the only place I can get replacement if you or anyone you know knows where too get one let me know please. thanks...kidoinacoma
  • 50pill50pill Member Posts: 1
    i've seen so many posts on this problem and not one answer has anybody figured it out. Same problem as others runs great when on but if its hot out with engine hot if i turn it off come 10-15 minutes it wont start. It turns over but the engine will not start if i let it sit for another 10 minutes then it starts and runs great. replace plugs, wires, air filter fuel filter water temp sensor. Please help.
    2.4 4 cyl manual
  • buffer4294buffer4294 Member Posts: 5
    I had this problem for quite some time and changed out plugs, wires, crank sensor, rotor button, cap. I finally figured it out that it was the engine coolant temp. sensor located at the back of the engine. After that it cranked fine even if hot and been sitting for a while. oh yeah changed fuel pump & fuel regulator. I recently experieced coil problems. When the coil starts breaking down it can possibly do this. I replaced my coil because it was trying to stall. I just want to WARN PEOPLE THAT THE MADE IN CHINA COIL THAT ARE SOLD AT YOUR LOCAL PARTS STORE DOES NOT WORK PROPERLY. ONLY A DENSO BY TOYOTA WILL PERFORM CORRECTLY now it runs great!!! Coils at dealership is around $97. It will be worth it to get problem fixed. I have 2.4 liter, automatic.1995.
  • hornetf18hornetf18 Member Posts: 1
    95 22re. I am having all these same problems....easy to start then hard to start, hesitation, stalling but sometimes it runs just fine. The other symptom I have is a high charging rate. I replaced the alt about 5 months ago and battery bench tested good. Any ideas...i was thinking maybe the fuel pump is shorted out? and causing the high electrical load...It stays pretty constant at about 16 volts and pulsates when blinkers are on...jumps when lights are turned on.
    I did the "pull positve lead to batt while running and see if it stays running test" it did but when I tried turning on a/c and headlights the engine died.

    Any ideas?
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