Volkswagen Passat Brake Questions

in Volkswagen
I have a 99 Passat Brake lights are not working, but center strip is. Replaced bulbs & fuse Could it be switch? Is center strip on a different circuit? Check engine light came on recently and then went out. Any ideas before I have to spend a fortune at the dealer?
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I had the exact same problem as you with the melted headlight and I am currently trying to find a way to fix it. You said you got yours at an M-B dealer. Would it be possible for you to send me more information about that. I am currently at a loss as to how to fix it. I'm just wondering what part I should get and where to get it. If you have the part # that would be great. Thanks so much!
Has anyone else had this issue? Or how did you fix it? Cost? Thoughts
It's your brake light switch. I had it replaced on my wife's 03 Passat, and that fixed the problem.
The brake light switch is tied into your car's ABS system, as well as the cruise control. If you see a yellow triangular light in your instrument panel or your cruise control system won't engage, it's definitely the brake light switch (approx. $50 to replace).
I had the same switch replaced on my 2003 Wolfsburg Jetta due to a factory recall.
I just bought a 2003 Volkswagen Passat GLX. The other day I left work in a hurry. I must admit that I drove my car pretty hard that day having fun with the car, accelerating and breaking hard. Before driving into my driveway I noticed that the ABS light was on. There is no indication that anything is wrong with the breaks other than the light being on. I have almost new break pads, the engine and emergency brake lights are not on, and no noise coming from the breaks.
One thing that sticks out in my mind is that I work at a place that is right next to a saw dust collection facility that blows saw dust everywhere when it gets windy.
Could it be the dust or my driving habits? What would cause the ABS lights to turn on considering there are no symptoms with the breaks?
HTH...
own_passat00
The brake light switch fixed the problem in my wife's 2003 Passat, but her car has the lighter 1.8T engine...
I recently posted a question I had about ABS Brake lights and modules in another forum. I have a 99 VW Passat. Had the lights come on and rather than replace the ABS Brake Module had the module reconditioned which did the trick. Saved close to $2k. The light however has returned about a year later. Subsequent reconditioning hasn't worked.
Now I mechanic pulls codes:
P1602 18010 Power Supply (B+) Terminal 30 Low Voltage
P1606 18014 Rough Road Spec Engine Torque ABS-ECU Electrical Malfunction
Reconditioner says these are not problems in the ABS. That it has to do with the ECU and that they are soft codes.
What's a soft code?
That they can be cleared. Anyone know anything about this?
If you anyone has any questions about removing the module and reconditioning I can point you in the right direction. I've gotten super good unfortunately at getting this thing out of the car.
Thanks!!
own_passat00
I have a Passat 2000, 2.8l, 6 cyl. See messages #11, #19. I had an ABS module replaced and installed a new brake light switch. The Brakes and ABS stopped flashing, but I have a traction control triangular symbol permanently displayed now (before I replaced the module it was occasionally seen). It does not disappear if I press the traction control button. Do you have any idea what maybe the problem now? How to fix it? Thanks.
own_passat00
Anyway, I changed the front rotors and pads and all is working well ... except the 'check brake pads' message still comes on first thing at start up. Anyone know how to stop the message? :confuse:
Thanks in advance -- Mike
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Bottom line, the cost of rebuilt was $149. The company covers one way shipping to their destination, once they complete the work, they call you, and you pay via Paypal $149 plus shipping back to your house. The cheapest shipping I chose to have was $20 in this case because I was in no rush to get it back and I’ll later explain why. They offer over night delivery as well, for more money of course. So my total cost was $169. Try beating that price for a fully rebuilt and functional ABS control module. Originally they wanted $169 but were willing to match the price of $149. A good try on my behalf but it was worth it. The $20 discount they gave me actually covered the shipping back to my house. And I have to state that their costumer support if awesome. The reason I was in no rush to get back the ABS module is because once I removed it from my vehicle which by the way didn’t take too long, I was able to drive the car without it. So my point is, if you have the ABS module removed by a licensed mechanic no need to worry about not having a vehicle until you receive the rebuilt back. Makes sense? I believe that most people do not look into the option of having their ABS module rebuilt because it takes too long. Most mechanics (even the VW dealer) that I’ve asked about being able to drive my vehicle without the ABS module present did not have an answer as far as how safe it is to drive without it because they never encountered the situation. They told me that they always have a replacement ready when they remove the old one, therefore they couldn’t recommend what I should do. Once I removed the ABS control module, I got behind the wheel and moved the car just a bit, applied the brakes just to make sure those little pistons from the pump don’t move. So I was able to drive my car during the time my ABS was out to be rebuilt. I highly recommend the company that rebuilt my ABS control module and if enough interest is out there, I will release their private information since I do not know the exact rules of this forum, and because I’m new on this forum.
Thank you!
I had the rear brakes replaced at the VW dealer about ~2 months ago. I was away for the holidays for about 3 weeks and just got back. I went to go start my car, no problem. However, when I used the brake I was so surprised.
It feels like the back brakes are scratching, like the pads are old. But it's not a constant scratch, but like a wave, as iff there's a bump or the rotor. I hope that explains it well.
Any thoughts?
Help Please, Thanks!
The only other problem we have had with it is the left cv axle, which has been replaced. The right cv axle has just started making some popping noises and probably will need to be repaired or replaced.
Has any one else had this happen to them? Thanks for any information.
Best Regards,
Shipo
soncio
My VW 2000 passat 2.8 v6 has brakes and abs light on after dealer replaced both rotors and rear brakes pads , , Dealer asking me $1500 to replace abs module, I dont know what are my options, Is it safe to drive the car, is this caused after dealer replaced my brakes.
Thanks for your help
2.5 years ago I had this company rebuild my 2001 Passat ABS controller
http://www.autoecu.com/index.php
At that time it cost me $250, and it is still working great! They provide a 3 year warrantee.
I also had them do my Volvo S80 ABS controller more recently at the same price.
Jim
:shades:
Even if the ABS controller is not working, the brakes will still work. The ABS controller pulses the brakes if the wheel slips, if it is not working the brakes do not pulse and the wheels can lock up in slippery conditions and reduce directional control.
Anyway, if you decide to replace the ABS controller, don't pay $1500. See my post #36 in this topic, in response to another ABS post late in december.
Jim
:shades:
I thought that his saying the brakes were good meant the lights had malfunctioned and he had reset the system so that would not occur again. It happened again though. I called him and he seemed surprised the lights were still coming on.
When he next worked on the car he replaced all 4 brake pads and said that would fix the problem. Afterward, he said that my back brakes were 80-90% worn even though he had passed me for a state inspection just a few months before and there was no mention of a pad problem then or when I first came there to have the brake warning lights addressed. I bought the pads myself but he charged about $175 labor. Again, I drove the car home nearby afterward but the next day the warning lights came on again. The mechanic continued to complain that VW's are difficult to figure out and maybe I should take it to a VW dealer. I did and the dealer remarked that my mechanic must not have the required diagnostic equipment as he should have known from the start, that I needed a new ABS control module. Is this true?
I read here about how to address the ABS module and I guess I will get mine rebuilt. The mechanic wants to charge me $150 labor to put it in. Of course the VW dealer will only put in a new one costing $575 and charge $250 labor.
Any advice? Thanks, Mr. Gullible
FWIW, my Passat could be driven without the control module, I covered the exposed part with a zip-lock bag.
The VW garage should do as you ask but if they won't they should not get the business. IMHO
I have been very happy with my rebuilt ABS controller from Auto and Truck Electronics. You got the link I posted I hope.
Jim
Some questions:
1) Was the brake work at 43K the first replacement pads on the car?
2) Has your driving habits, location, commute changed?
The rear pads have been a weak link in the brake system on these cars. For some drivers under some circumstances, they wear out about twice as fast as the front pads.
Under a mostly urban driving cycle, in a hilly area, I got about 23,000 miles out of my OEM rear pads. I replaced them with PBR Deluxe pads and have about 28K on them, and they still look pretty meaty. I'm guessing they'll go about 40K. I changed out the front pads at about 47,000 miles - they could have gone farther, but I was getting a funky wear pattern that wouldn't pass state inspection.
Thank you for your advise, I don't think I am going to take it back to a dealership but I will definitely check out the deluxe pads.
The PBRs are pretty nice pads. Low dusting, better than OEM wear, and at least equal stopping power and at lower price point than the dealer's product. You can find them at getcoolparts.com, stopshopanddrive.com and other places.
Thanks
The only special tool needed is the piston retractor. The piston must be turned while pressure is applied against it to retract properly.
Regarding the rotors wearing...eh, maybe. Aftermarket rotors were pretty cheap when I last did my rear brakes. I think $28 or so apiece. I realize you are in Canada, and your taxes are pretty high, but I'ld look into ordering them on the web.
I used Ate plain-faced rotors and PBR/Axxis Deluxe Plus pads. They wear better than OEM, produce less brake dust and what they do produce is light in color and cleans easily. Their stopping power is equal to or better than OEM.
I dunno what to say about keeping them from sticking other than to lube the sliders well.
I read your post with considerable interest. I have a 2000 Passat that has the characteristic flashing "brake fault" symptom. I took it to a local dealer who said I needed a new ABS brake module to the tune of $1100 USD. Reconditioning was not mentioned as an option.
Questions are:
Who can provide the necessary reconditioning of the module?
Is removal of the module dependent of special tools and extensive dissambly?
Any info you could provide would be greatly appreciated.
-rjayt
I read somewhere that I need some kind of a sensor that I enter in the brake pad thickness which is suppose to reset a brake indicator, is this true and if so does any one know what its called and or where I could get one?
Would love to hear peoples findings and suggestions!
I will greatly appreciate if you can give me the name and address of the company who fixed your ABS module.
Thanks
Zagurto