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Ford Mustang Brake Problems

zodacowboyzodacowboy Posts: 8
edited January 2014 in Ford
my parking break got stuck recently to my 05 mustang v6. it must have been from the weather so i tried warming my car up, but that did not work. i finally went into my console and fiddled around with the handle from behind and finally it released. how can i prevent this or be able to fix it again?


  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Why is this in the Accord thread and Chevy Monte Carlo thread?
  • baggs32baggs32 Posts: 3,229
    Good question. I bought a Mustang so I WOULDN'T be associated with owners of those cars. :surprise: ;)
  • We do a lot of stop and go driving and was considering upgrading the brakes with drilled or grooved rotors, composite pads and braided metal lines. Will this be helpful or just a waste of money. It's a standard Mustang (convertible) with 6 cyl, and automatic.
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 8,062
    Depends on what you want to accomplish. The rotor upgrades are mostly for show. Drilling can cause cracks if it's not done right. Metal lines should give you a firmer pedal. New pads can make the most difference in performance.

    I'd recommend Porterfield R4S pads for improved stopping power and a potential reduction in brake dust. Other pads may be just as good but I don't have any reference on them. Next I'd do stainless brake lines. If you want better looking rotors I'd look at dimpled or slotted but either way you may get more noise and less pad life. Just remember it's cosmetic so you can forego it if you're just going for performance or get whatever looks best to you.
  • :confuse: well sorry for it being you guys threads, my wife has the accord and my brother has the carlo so i read in all areas, but like my mustang brother said i got a mustang to stay away from those

    but with the accords, mustangs, and carlos has anybody had trouble with their emergency break getting stuck?
  • Thanks for the info. Just looking for performance. Nobody here knows how to drive so we have to hit the brakes a lot. Looks like front brake lines are easy to find but all 4 is a little more difficult. I'll keep looking though.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    but with the accords, mustangs, and carlos has anybody had trouble with their emergency break getting stuck?

    Well, I have two Accords (a 1996 w/170,000 miles and a 2006 w/16,000 miles) and neither parking brake has ever gotten stuck (and I set it EVERY time I park). I have heard of some vehicles having their brake get frozen in cold COLD weather, sort of like having a tongue stuck to a flagpole in freezing weather.
  • bstage03bstage03 Posts: 1
    I recently installed rear brakes on my 2001 mustang, the parking brake spring has popped itself out, I am determined to put this thing back in, i will take it to a repair shop if i have to but i'm hell bent on doing this myself, any suggestions?
  • Wait till Karen finds out your talking about Mustangs in a Honda forum.....I feel sorry for ya!! :mad:...Tarred and feathered!!..When Mustangs first came out, they were called "Secretary" 'cars...small and know like Bill Clinton has one...he's feminine!! can't wait to see the new Ford Accord.......
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 8,062
    Looks to me like you're posting about Honda in the Mustang forum.

    You are here: Forums / Coupes & Convertibles / Ford Mustang / Ford Mustang Brakes
  • nope , this forum is listed under HONDA ACCORD,,,,,,
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 8,062
    And for ME it's listed under Ford Mustang, just like I posted. It's probably posted under both. Get over it.
  • gzgtpgzgtp Posts: 83
    akirby is correct. I'm in the Mustang forum too!
  • :shades: i have three cars on my account honda accord (wife's car), Mustang (mine) and Monte Carlo (Brother's) so when i post it goes to all three forum rooms. sorry about that. somehow i can find a mechanic or someone who can help fix a problem in other car forums.

    while i'm on hear i'm debating on two upgrades to my 05 mustang. what size rims should i get on my mustang? is 22 too big or should i just stick with 18's.

    and does anyone know about a car cover that has security don't want to invest in one and someone steals it. i live in a major city common issue hear.
  • yeah i had the same problem. my parking break would not release so i figured my spring had popped, but i realized it was just frozen stuck so one day after letting my car heat up for some hours i went inside my console and took a screw driver and poked at the back of the parking break handle and somehow the break released and was working properly again. so that may work instead of getting ripped off auto shop.
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 8,062
    Stick with 18's. Anything bigger will compromise ride quality not to mention drain your wallet, and they won't really improve handling over the 18's.
  • so far posting on hear has been very helpful. yeah i figured the streets of baltimore would be unforgiving to any rims so i should try and save as much money as possible in case i hit a pot hole...
  • onebigoonebigo Posts: 2
    Call me stupid but I could not retract my rear caliper pistons. I was all set to put in new pads. Went to auto parts store and their answer--buy new calipers. What am I doing wrong. Appreciate your help. Skeet
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 8,062
    You need a tool to turn the piston while you push it back in. You can try the universal tool at regular auto parts stores but the one NAPA makes works a lot better.
  • bvdj84bvdj84 Posts: 1,724
    Why in the world is this in with the Honda Accord forum?
  • onebigoonebigo Posts: 2
    Thanks for the information--you are never too old to learn something new--I will go to NAPA and buy the wrench--Skeet
  • matt51matt51 Posts: 8
    I have a 2007 base Mustang V6, with manual transmission. I am replacing the front rotors and pads. On the left wheel, there is not enough gap in the caliper bracket. If I install the outer fixed pad, I cannot even install the caliper over the rotor. On the inner pad, I have it depressed within the rotor caliper bracket. If I force the caliper over the rotor, the rotor will rub against the caliper bracket. This happened to the original rotor. The outer rotor surface shows normal polishing from rubbing against the outer pad. The inner rotor surface has a deep wide groove which came from rubbing against the caliper bracket surface.
    On the right front wheel, the pads are worn to where they are centered within the pads. The inner rotor surface has the same wear groove from initially rubbing against the caliper bracket, until the total gap from pad wear opened enough for the rotor to center within the pads.
    At this point I can order standard caliper brackets to see if they have the correct gap - I think Ford used non-standard brackets that have too small a gap on my car. Or, I can order the Wagner pad/bracket assembly, $125 each.
    I think this is a serious safety issue.
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