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And yes, the VSC/TRAC should apply moderate braking to either rear wheel that slips. But it would not do that in any of my static testing, and I have never encountered a roadbed circumstance where the VSC/TRAC took this action.
Like the ML and the Sequoia, the RXes VSC/TRAC could be used to allocate more torque to the front or back, but for some reason they decided to continue to rely on the non-functional VC for this.
With regards to the use of TRAC to allocate torque in the front left to right or vice versa, very few vehicles have front LSD, so I suspect that if the T/L TRACX actually ever does this it is very "light fingered", otherwise it might jerk the steering wheel right out of some poor unsuspecting person's hands.
FYI: For a typical oil, the (linear) thermal expansion coeffiecient is about 5×10-5/°F. This means that in going from 72 to 110°F, the volume will increase by about 0.6% (factor of 3 required to go from linear to volumetric expansion).
The 30% number is about 50 times too large.
Also, I don't see the distinction between "effective viscosity" and "real viscosity." A non-newtonian fluid will respond to shear in exactly the same way whether you call it an "effective" or "non-newtonian" viscosity and it does go up with temperature.
tidester
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SUVs; Aftermarket & Accessories
The next time I'm in Tucson can I give you advance notice and maybe buy you a drink?
You're obviously 'way ahead of me on this one.
Regardless of what the volume increase vs temperature is, wouldn't you agree that the fluid pressure increases dramatically as the temperature rises?
And wouldn't you also agree that it's that pressure that increases the coupling coefficient rather than an "actual" increase in viscosity.
Talk down to me if you need to, I won't mind, I am well aware that I have lot's to learn and not near enough time to do it in.
Also, I do not talk down to anyone!
Yes, absolutely, the pressure increases with increasing temperature. I wouldn't call it dramatic since the variation is roughly linear over the temperature ranges we're talking about.
My understanding of "non-newtonian" motor oil is that polymers are added to the oil which unfurl or stretch out when they get hot (up to a limit!) I'd probably agree (at least in a technical sense) that it is the pressure or temperature that causes the polymers to stretch out.
Those molecules can more easily grab onto and cling to one another when stretched out providing greater viscosity.
I'll take you up on that drink if you're ever up this way!
tidester
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SUVs; Aftermarket & Accessories
(You are welcome to buy me that drink, lol).
Steve
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SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
The odds against two hosts from Idaho showing up in the same Town Hall forum are staggering! Yet, here we are!
tidester
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SUVs; Aftermarket & Accessories
tidester
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SUVs; Aftermarket & Accessories
With the engine/exhaust COLD of course!
tidester:
Impecuniousness.
I haven't bothered to look it up yet, but I'll get around to it yet.
I've been doing this the last 12 years - still don't have any bad smells coming from my A/C
When your A/C is operating the A/C airflow cooling heat exchanger, evaporator, is kept as close to a freezing temperature level without actually getting there, typically about 34F.
As the incoming air is cooled flowing over this device much of the airborne moisture, gaseous water, is literally "wicked" from the airflow and condensed on to the cooling vanes of the evaporator itself.
As the moisture continues to accumulate it will eventually form droplets of moisture heavy enough that gravity will overcome viscosity and the droplets will flow out the condensate drain tube provided for that very purpose.
But.
At the evry instant you shut down the A/C system the evaporator is VERY likely to be at 34F and it is also VERY likely to be coated, saturated really, with the thin film of moisture that has not yet gathered enough mass to form droplets and flow away.
The 92 LS400 A/C evaporator has over 10,000 square inches of horizontally oriented cooling surface and can support about a quart of water in this condensate "state". In one experiment with the LS evaporator saturated in this manner and then placed in a two bay home garage (Seattle eastside) at an average temperature of 56F there was still a pint of water on it after 36 hours.
So, what does this mean to you?
If you live in a northern climate, even of high humidity, such as Seattle, you will not likely experience the mold and mildew problem to any great extent. For "lively" growth rates, mold and mildew spores need food (airborne, the blower sucks it in, even with the new pollen filters), water, an absence of light, and sustained periods with the temperature in the range of 55 to 70F.
Obviously the mold and mildew odor problem will be at its greatest in places like Tucson.
But those of us in Seattle don't get off scott free. If you note a persistency for your windshield and windows to fog over on the inside on a cool morning or during a cold wintertime drive this is also a result of the evaporator's ability to gather and retain moisture in great abundancy.
What to do, what to do?
When you shut down your automotive A/C system your evaporator is at, or very near, 34F (and there might even be enough liquid refrigerant remaining in the A/C system to keep it that way for many minutes). Depending on the ambient temperature (outside in the dry climate and hot Arizona sun, or inside in a cool very humid sub-terrainian garage) it might actually take hours for it's temperature to rise to the level at which the condensate starts to evaporate.
Back in late 91 shortly after I bought my first lexus, a 92 LS, my initial solution was to park the car until Lexus or myself figured out why it persisted in trying to kill me. By the time the following winter rolled around I had discovered that it was the A/C evaporator's ability to retain inordinate levels of moisture and then start releasing it within no obviosu "cue" to the driver.
My short term solution was to park it in the garage with the windows and sunroof slightly open each and every night to let the moisture "leave" the cabin as it evaporated during the night.
Later on I added four 12 volt muffin type "extraction" fans, two in each rear quarter panel, to more quickly remove humid cabin airflow.
For more detail and verification have a look at:
http://www.airsept.com/eed.html
I usually turn of the A/C (Leaving the fan on) about 5 minutes before I intend to stop the engine and leave the car.
Oh - I can imaging how Ford owners deal with that idiotic A/C - Max A/C setting on their control dial. Why doesn't Ford use A/C on-off (ie like Ford in Europe, Australia, Africa etc)
You mentioned that 1 pint of water remains after 36 hours in Seattle. Presumably, the residual is related to the ambient relative humidity which is decidedly higher in Seattle than Tucson. I would therefore expect the residual to be much lower in the drier climate.
tidester
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SUVs; Aftermarket & Accessories
And I absolutely agree about the overnight residual Seattle vs Tucson.
nimrod: Ford, Huh??
Actually, it's the other way around. Evaporation causes cooling!* In fact, evaporative cooling is used extensively in Tucson in place of air conditioning in houses. It wouldn't work in Seattle because of the higher relative humidity.
tidester
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SUVs; Aftermarket & Accessories
* Only the "hottest" molecules are able to overcome the surface tension barrier selectively leaving the "coldest" molecules behind. Nature uses this method to cool our bodies through sweating.
Major point - we agree that evaporation cools.
I am sure that if wwest had given it a second thought he'd have realized he had the notion reversed.
tidester
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SUVs; Aftermarket & Accessories
Think of that thin film of moisture clinging to the evaporator surfaces as a nice insulating blanket, if the humidity is high enough it simply remains in place, at least over a much longer period.
Raise the humidty and once evaporation has completed it's cycle, there is no insulating blanket and all that is left are the evaporator molecules, left to rise in temperature as the ambient rises.
At, in the "end", my statement is correct, but I admit to a REALLY poor choice of wording.
Sorry, wasn't trying to mislead anyone.
This was actually another topic that I was going to "poll" the forum on.
The HL is my first Toyota product so I find it interesting after reading the HL's Maintenance Guide that a transmission fluid change is only recommended for "severe" duty. This is very contradictory to me...probably because I have always owned Honda products. I don't doubt the fact that trans fluid may never require replacement, but it seems that Honda recommends it to eliminate metal particles that may clog the filter/screen. I'm by no means a transmission expert, so I have no idea as to why metal particles would be there in the first place. I assume that Toyota(s)/Lexus do not have a tendency to "loose" metal......?
The same for brake fluid...I've been told by two Honda dealers that replacement is recommended to eliminate particles spawned from the ABS system (does this sound like a very good system?). On a recent episode of Motor Week, Pat Goss was preaching the importance of having brake fluid flushed at least every two years, but when I questioned my Toyota dealer the exact answer was "we never perform or recommend this procedure".
Also (sorry for being long winded), I have several aquaintances that have been mechanics for several years that will swear that if you want to have a driveline problem, then just change the original fluid in a trans or diff. Maybe that's an old "fable" but I own several old Mopar's, and one in particular is a one-owner '68 Roadrunner that has never had any fluids replaced other than oil and coolant. The brakes work perfect and so does the trans...after 34 years.
It is always been my opinion that if you go to the trouble of draining any of these fluids then it is certainly worth the additional trouble and cost to have them analyized by a lab.
I believe that any lab finding metal particles would immediately recommend that you look into and find the problem.
If you ever see those Honda mechanics recommendations in writing then fire them off to Honda immediately and you will soon see those same mechanics looking for new jobs.
You can plan ahead and avoid circumstances wherein you might need AWD, but ice and snowstorms don't always give fair warning.
Now, how do those tornadoes find those trailer parks?
I know this issue has been raised before, but I don't recall the solution. I have a 2001 H/L 'non-limited' that has finally developed this rattle. Can anyone provide the solution to this problem?
Thanks in advance!!
Gary
I'm going to drive across country, thru the Rockies (lots of family on west coast).
I had a Camry with a 4 (stick shift) and you could really tell a difference in performance with air conditioning and 3 or more passengers.
Gas mileage difference was minimal (1 or 2 mpg as I recall) so other than 6 vs 4 spark plugs the cost of running the 6 isn't much greater than the 4.
I really like having the horses when I need them (what can I say, I learned to drive on a classic muscle car).
I commute 25 miles round trip into Richmond daily and with that commuting and errands I'm still getting 21+ mpg. I'm not one to punch the throttle hard unless needed, I drive smooth and ease off the gas if traffic is slowing ahead so my mileage is in good part due to my driving style. I'm doing better than the EPA numbers but others have posted poorer experience mileage-wise.
Even though you sold the boat I'd recommend the tow package, just not the hitch. You get upgrades on radiator, alternator, transmission cooler, steering fluid cooling and some other goodies...all good things in my opinion. Check out the package components on Edmunds pricing for new vehicles, for the price it is a bargin.
Hope you find the HL you want...I got mine last August and I still love it as much as the day I bought it.
pdalpsher in glen allen
If you look at the Kluger in Japan (their Highlander), they are able to get DVD nav, with a video camera in the rear. When backing up, the DVD Nav screen doubles as a TV monitor.
They are also able to get steptronic sport transmissions, dark grey interior etc etc.
I know its personal preference, but it would be nice to at least have the option.
http://www.toyota.co.jp/Showroom/All_toyota_lineup/KlugerV/mechanism/images/mecha04.jpg
http://www.toyota.co.jp/Showroom/All_toyota_lineup/KlugerV/mechanism/images/mecha05.jpg
Sport - steering shift matic
It arranges the switch on left and right of the steering wheel spoke. By the fact that the shifter is designated as M position, without setting the hand away from the steering wheel, quick with the fingertip it can do shift change
I am looking to get either one of the two to protect front bumper and hood from rock / pebble damage. I have already gotten scores of chpped paint from stray rocks.
If anyone has opinions or have it on their HL, can you post pros and cons.
BTW: - I would have to agree with nimrodd99 on this one, Kluger has other features I would love to get in my HL. I love the 3 spoke steering wheel, darker wood interior and sport tranny. Its too bad TMC doesn't import some of these features and options on U.S. vehicles.
The HL is a great choice, in any flavor.
I too test drove the 4 cyl and wanted it for the same gas saving feature, however when I finally purchased I opted for the 6...REASON--$600.00 difference plus more items and in the color I wanted. It was a no brainer really and down the road when I sell it, Ill make more on it.
I did my homework for 2 straight months on this and believe me MONEY was my biggest factor, yet I bought the 6, its worth it in the long run.
Again, either way you go, you cant go wrong.
If you mostly drive on the flatland and don't tow the 4 will likely be satisfactory.
From the mileage figures I've read here for the 6 cyl, you won't save a lot of money on gas by opting for the 4 cyl. As I mentioned earlier, I went with the 4 cyl mainly because the 6 cyl HLs that I found were about $1500 more - after discount (they had a couple of extra options in addition to the 6cyl).
Hopefully my mileage will increase a little after a few more miles (have 4500 mi now). Performance is fine for flatland and minor hills. You just don't have much in reserve for passing. It works out ok for the area that I live in.