Ford Aerostar Starting/Stalling/Idling Issues

ron2_1ron2_1 Member Posts: 1
edited March 2019 in Ford
My 97 Aerostar 3.0L has developed a wierd problem. When it is cold (below -10 degC) it will not start. When I turn the key on, I hear the fuel pump relay click but do not hear the fuel pump. Also the light for the overdrive displays off. At first I thought the gas line was frozen but that isn't the problem. If I plug the block heater in for a couple of hours, it will start right up. Also the off light for the overdrive is not on and of course I hear the fuel pump when the key is first turned on.

Any ideas what might be causing this? It runs great after it starts.

Thanks in advance


  • goph1963goph1963 Member Posts: 1
    I jump started another vehicle a couple of times with my aerostar and now it acts like it has a dead battery. Dome lights, etc work, but won't even turn over. Charged the battery and nothing happened. Ideas??
  • getonegetone Member Posts: 1
    Have Aerostar with 3.0. Engine starts but goes dead after warming up but will start right back up and then goes dead again after it run for a few miles.
    Is this elect. or gas problem?
  • shadetree14shadetree14 Member Posts: 1
    92 aerostar cant find fuel pump relay have replaced fuel pump still wont crank
  • pmccrite2004pmccrite2004 Member Posts: 1
    My friend has a 1986 van, and he drove the van home and went out to start it again, and it wouldn't start. The van ran fine all the way home. The Van is getting gas and it is sparks, so we have fuel and spark but it won't start. It cranks but won't turn over, but if you spray starting fluid under the hood , it will start right up. I told him I thought a sensor, but he has replaced two different ones and it still didn't make any difference. Any help would be appreciated.
  • blmrblmr Member Posts: 1
    I have a 92 areostar that i bought real cheap and come to find out that most of the vacuum lines were cut. So I copied off of my 95 aerostar and I am still having problems. What I really need is a diagram.
  • shadetreealshadetreeal Member Posts: 1
    I am unable to get my 93 to start, it will crank all day but will not fire. I have replaced the the distributor cap, rotar button, plugs and wires and still won't fire, anyone else had this problem or can you offer any suggestions? :confuse:
  • harry2001harry2001 Member Posts: 2
    I am unable to get my 92 to start, it will crank all day but will not fire no spark. I have replaced the the distributor cap, rotar button, plugs, wires, main computer box, engine control module and still won't fire, anyone else had this problem or can you offer any suggestions? Does this engine have a 'coil resistor?' and what does the pertronic igniter kit look like or where is it located. Is the coil pickup in the distributor cap or in the base area of the distributor? Thank you
  • harry2001harry2001 Member Posts: 2
    I believe this engine year has computer OBD codes that are readable? You should get someone to read your codes and go from there.
  • shiftercablesshiftercables Member Posts: 2
    happened to me to if you have some one smack the starter with a wrench while you try to start it it should fire up and it will be your starter costed me $100
  • shiftercablesshiftercables Member Posts: 2
    it sould be youraltenator if you have to charge your battery but just to make sure have your battery checked out first then check belts on your altenator if those are good you could take your altenator out and have that checked also
  • cer51cer51 Member Posts: 1
    where is the obdII plug in for a 94 ford aerostar van ?
  • flowernymph2flowernymph2 Member Posts: 1
    Can someone please tell me where the :mad: Fuel Filter is located and what type it is?
    Thanks to All!!
  • longstomachlongstomach Member Posts: 1
    Check coolant level of radiator. A mixed message is sent to computer and
    thinks its running cold, but warmed up.
    good luck on your aerostar :)
  • lovemyfordslovemyfords Member Posts: 2
    97 4.0 engine 4x4 starts and idle but anything else it stalls was told it is the coil plugs and wires need replaced. does this sound right and if so is it hard to do
  • elizabeth44elizabeth44 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1993 Ford Aerostar 4wd van.When its wet outside it wont start.But when its dry it will.Can anybody help? :cry:
  • barnstormer1barnstormer1 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1993 Ford Aerostar that sometimes starts and runs fine, but other times will just turn over and not crank. When it does start , it runs smooth and might work for a week or more, then the problem appears again. The MAS airflow sensor was replaced - ran fine for two weeks. The fuel pump was replaced - ran fine for a week. The fuel filter has been replaced. Today my son heads off to work, and it won't start. Later it finally did and as soon as the engine starts running everything is fine. Turn off the ignition and then it won't crank again. The shop says it does not show any codes. I have left it down there for a week and it just cranks every time.
  • beastnkid97beastnkid97 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 97 Aerostar V6 3.0L. It is idling way tyoo high and I cannot get it to kick down. I have checked all vacuum lines for leaks and breaks. I checked the accelerator cable thinking maybe it was stuck. I don't know what else to check. any ideas? :confuse:
  • dave343dave343 Member Posts: 3
    I think the problem lies at the distributor. Check to see that all wires going into the distributor are in fact connecting. lead-in wires sometimes vibrate loose and are within millimeters of touching and sometimes do and sometimes not. They have to connect all the time. to check out, pull distributor cap, test the module for 12 volts at the module connect point by using an alligator clip. The process is to move the wires coming into the module at the same time viewing the voltage meter to see if the voltage gets hot and cold. It should stay hot. That is :confuse: elimination one.
    Elimination two, easyier, is make sure ignition wires are not laying bare on the manifold. Sometimes (it) happens. If it bumps the manifold, what ford stands for will show up. That is when the frustration begins.
    Elimation three, is, simply check to see that the coil and condenser wires are secure.
    Elimation four, if all these things check out okay, replace the distributor module, which is highly unlikely as it starts sometimes and runs fine.
  • dave343dave343 Member Posts: 3
    I think you might have a forign object under the lip of the throttle actuator. When you step on the gas peddle, a cable pulls on a semi-circular arrangement on your engine designed to givie it more gas or to idle it down. If, by chance, something like a leaf or an acorn or a small piece of limb should drop onto the the idle area and hold the accelorator open, it will keep a fast idle until the :shades: is removed. Simply open the hood, rotate the throttle to open and look to see if anything is crushed in there on the throttle-stop. Take index finger and thumb, pick out the offending object, slam it on the ground, mash it with your foot, and smile.

    matter is removed.
  • dave343dave343 Member Posts: 3
    It sounds like a problem like the old plymouths used to have. The old plymouths could not stand water. Dry days were fine. Rainy days, most likely the engine would miss badly or stop running if you could get it started. As you know, electricity will jump ten feet to get to water. Which brings us to your problem. I think that somehow moisture is getting into your electronics like the distributor cap, or on your wires or around your plugs. I'd start with the distributor cap.

    :) The easiest approach is to put on a pot of coffee, then get an extension cord and a hair dryer. Place the dryer so as it blows hot air onto the distributor and wires. Go back in the house and drink your coffee. This allows the dryer to dry out any moisture that may have accumulated. Give it twenty minutes.

    If you don't want to do that get a can of spray-dry and spray the cap inside and out and then give it a try. Or, hang a light bulb, about 60 watts, over the wires and distributor. Caution that you do not lay bulb on engine parts or on plastic, especially if there is a strong smell of gasoline etc, just common sense things. Be sure to plug in light and see that it is burning, maybe a better word would be lit. Be sure not to light up anything else.
  • aerostardriveraerostardriver Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem. 1995 Aerostar. It snowed and rained and my car would not start. It cranks up but no start.

    Today, I took out the distributer cap off. Inside the cap the "teeth" were rusted. I took sand paper and got rid of the rust. I used sand paper on the rotor as well. I cleaned until all the metal peaces were silver looking (cap and rotor). I placed the rotor and the distributor cap back and it worked. At first I could not start just with the ignition key. I had my father use the helper from the engine and the car started. And now, it starts just fine with only the key.

    So if you Aerostar cranks up due to rain, moisture...
    1. Open the distributer cap
    2. Clean the "teeth" with sand paper inside the cap
    3. Clean the rotor with sand paper
    4. Put everything back the way it was.

    Don't unplug the cables. Check this video as well.

    Mechanics were telling me to replace the cap and wires... which would cost around $40 cap and wires plus $70 labor. I don't think you need to buy a new cap. Just remove the rust with sand paper.

    Getting to the distributer cap is tricky. From inside the car. There is a peace you can take off right under the radio. As soon as you open, you can see the distributer cap. Placing the "under radio cover" back is tricky as well. You need to push from inside the car with you hands, and from under the hood with a 4' stick (I used the back of a broomstick). Push both at the same time until the cover fits back in place. For this you need two people.

    Hope this helps.
  • alex129alex129 Member Posts: 2
    Can somebody help me? My 97 aerostar makes a click sound when i try to start it, if i move the shifter, or shift lever, back or forward a little it will start but the problem seems to be getting worse every time, is it the switch?, or is there a false contact somewhere inside the column? Thanx for any info you can share. Alex
  • alex129alex129 Member Posts: 2
    thanx for posting, but my van has a different problem; it doesnt even crank up, it sounds as if the battery cables were loose, but they are tight. Every time, if i move a little the shift lever (maybe half an inch forward or backward) , it cranks and starts without a problem while the shifter is in "P" or in "N". I dont know if the problem is with the ignition switch, or is there any other device that is not letting the current go from the switch to the starter so that it cranks up when i turn the key.
  • andemon30andemon30 Member Posts: 1
    That's basically it, the title of this post is what's going on. I googled a few things and came up with the possibility of it being the IAC, I will be cleaning it. However the sound seems to be coming from around the Alternator area, not from the Intake. If anyone has any suggestions please feel free to contact me via my real email ( I check everyday ) a n d e m o n 2 6 @ g m a i l . c o m, thanks.
  • bandytunebandytune Member Posts: 1
    it was running just fine, we just got it, it started to stall on deceleration, we thought it might be low on gas that seemed to make it better, it just got us home though, now it wont start, we changed the fuel filter, charged the battery and even changed the battery cords, but it still will not start, we have no idea what to do next, like i said it was running just fine? ant help would be great :sick:
  • goguddygoguddy Member Posts: 1
    The temp gauge is fluctuating while driving and idling. All fluid levels and oil are good.

    No apparent signs of overheating. is it the thermostat? How to replace?
  • StarkenburgerStarkenburger Member Posts: 1
    I just replaced fuel pump sending unit on a 1997 Ford Aerostar and the fuel filter and relay. After I got the gas leak sorted out quick connector wasn't on properly it runs fine until you start to slow down then it stalls. I start it again when slow down stalls again. Very puzzled helpppppp.
Sign In or Register to comment.