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I am presently negotiating the purchase of a 2002 SE Discovery. I should have all the particulars ironed out by Wednesday the latest. I'll let everyone know how it worked out and exactly what I ordered. Meanwhile, here is another amusing glance at these ridiculous cup holders. Consider the spill potential. "You best not be driving while you be drinking". Why don't we just change the vehicle's name to something like, "2002 Land Rover Dis-cup-ery"
Regards to all.
02
thanks
Thanks,
02
As stated in the 2002 Discovery brochure, "High-output Harmon Kardon 320-Watt audio system. 11 speakers including an amplified sub woofer. Package included Becker in dash CD player and GPS navigation system with active voice commands." is marked *late availability. One of the dealers with whom I have spoken says this should be made available starting in late December.
As stated in the 2002 Discovery brochure "Headliner-mounted DVD player with integrated LCD wide screen" is also marked *late availability.
I would be more than happy to take that particular photo for you but they are not available as of yet. In the mean while, in lieu of your photo I offer another picture of these hysterically funny, stoopid cup holders.
Sorry I couldn't help you at this point in time.
I'll be back at my Land Rover dealer this week if there is any other particular photo I can help you with. Don't hesitate to ask.
Regards to all.
02
http://members.aol.com/Spfnever/02cups.jpg
The Skid plates are made by a private manufacturer in the US. The number and type of skid plates you may require depends on what kind of off-roading you intend to do. I really can't recommend what you may need. The manufacturer that does ours is a small company that provides them just to us. I know there are several companies that supply skid plates, but don't know much about them.
Steve... have you heard Chicago Transit Authority on vinyl?? It absoltely obliterates the digital version. Mmmmmmmmmmm, yummy!
Skid plates... lots of people protect things like oil pans and the auto trans sump, some others go hogwild and put covers over even the diffs. Rock sliders are smart if you'll ever get in the situation where your breakover angle will possibly leave you high-centered. It saves your bodywork... the other hard parts are pretty well tucked up between the frame rails (at least on the DI they are). It's the "roll a wheel over a rock and drop straight down onto the sump" thing you want to avoid. Make sure your plates are perforated so mud/snow can get out.
Good luck! -Bob
Thanks,
02.
Thanks,
02.
John
I'd turn each stop in two turns and try it. Be careful not to get in too far, so your tire lugs begin to rub. If two turns isn't enough and you still have clearance, then give her two more.
Consider also the steering action under articulation; you're likely to hit things at full stop more often when you're severely articulated.
Good luck! -Bob
About brake pads... I'd recommend nice soft aftermarket pads over stockers. You'll get better rotor wear and since they're so easy to change, you can replace them in 45 minutes (all 4 sets) pretty quick.
Regards, -Bob
Lord Lucas Disclaimer: My Rover runs like absolute hell, leaks incessantly and has parts falling off it like a trailer park in a tornado.
Thanks
I also am finding all the surface lots in downtown LA. A couple of times I have gone there for meetings and started to pull into a garage only to see a 6'-7" or 6'-9" headroom sign. I backed out and moved on. Yeah, I just fit but I sure won't trust that something isn't just a tad lower...like the headache bar at the entry.
"Tincup", you have been a great source of info on this board, and so have you, "nanuq" - thanks a lot to both of you.
I've done a lot of off-roading in my DII, and also a comparison with my Toy 4x4 truck and 4R, and the DII beats the hell out of both - doing the same terrain. I bought the SouthDown (?) dealer offered skid-plates for $ 2,000 (ouch !!) but what a lifesaver - they have taken some heavy hits with hardly a scratch - well worth the $$$.
My only complaint with the DII is the horrible approach angle - any fixes for that other than cutting or removing/replacing the bumper? Tincup, do you know where the Treck vehicles get their modifications? My dealer is of little help when it comes to off-road stuff.
Happy motoring to all of you !!
Steve
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Vans, SUVs and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
For example... my brother and his wife had a Jeep Grand Cherokee. They put three transmissions in the thing and finally traded it in on a Ford Exploder. Which subsequently barfed a transmission. Now they have another Ford.
My buddy in Washington put a new trans into his Suburban, another friend blew the trans on his Exploder, it seems that Jeep, Chrysler and Ford are known for bad transmissions.
Toyota Four-Runners blow head gaskets at 100,000 miles, Blazers large and small rust out, almost every Subaru I've seen more than a few years old is running on 3 cylinders... the list goes on and on.
On the other hand, you never hear of a Rover blowing a transmission or transfer case or differential. Sometimes you'll lose a half-shaft if it's offroaded HARD. They rarely blow a head gasket. The suspension is bullet-proof, you're not bending anything except perhaps a trailing arm in the rear. You can cross-axle the Rover on two boulders and the doors still open correctly. The seats (up until '96) use THE highest grade leather available world-wide.
The electricals are quirky... I gotta hand you that. But once you sort the problems, they stay fixed... except in the case of corrosion in grounding points... and any truck used in the slop will develop those.
See? I think people are simply using a different measuring stick for "Rover" in general.
Just my $.02
www.discoweb.org
and go from there. There are literally dozens of sources for information! The land rover forum at www.lrx.com is another good one.
A friend of ours tried to sell us their Grand Cherokee when they heard we were in the market for another 4X4. I politely declined when the wife announced that we should buy it because EVERYTHING was new at 90,000 miles. Tranny, engine work, new A/C the list went on and on. From the Grand Cherokee forum you can see that this is the norm. I will stay with my occassional squeak, squak, or whistle while I pass all the Tahoes, Jeeps, and Asian 4X4s up Northwoods Drive at Tahoe Donner this winter.
While at my local Land Rover center I had the pleasure of meeting Product Support Representative Mr. Matthew M. Lynch. Mr. Lynch took the trouble to show me illustrated diagrams from some very large Land Rover repair manual depicting the two separate evaporators and their associated refrigerant lines. This was a concern to me because I have no problem paying $700.00 for a rear air conditioning unit but I have a very big problem paying 700.00 for a fan switch in the rear. Thank you Mr. Lynch for clarifying this . Orders for Kalahari's should begin to be taken sometime in early December, if anyone is interested. The only problem I did have was with the skid plates. As per Nanuq's advice, I tried to get a skid plate for the transmission housing and my dealer was under the impression that one was not available. Maybe, Mr. Tincup, you could help me out on this one, a part number or some knowledgeable recommendation.
Anyway, I'll be out here reading posts and waiting for my day to come when I go and pick up my 2002 Discovery. I guess this will give me plenty of time to come up with a name for her and something cool for a vanity plate.
Regards to all,
02.
I love outdoor winter activites and they all involve snow and speed. My Rover is silver like a grey cloud so I named her "Anuqa" which means "wind" in Yupiq. And when she's running like ABSOLUTE HELL (Lord Lucas take note) I just remove the letter 'a' from the end, turning her into "Anuq" which is the name for what one might find on the ground behind a large, overfed nanuq (polar bear).
Isn't "lightstone" a bright white color? Perhaps the name "Kannik" fits? It's Yupiq (eskimo) for "Snowflake".
Congratulations! -Bob
ps: for Rover parts online try Atlantic-British, you can find them on any search enginge. I bet they have skid plates for the DII.
Go to www.lrx.com and ask Mike Green how many miles he has on his DI. I talked to him a year ago and I believe he was at 650,000 miles on the first rebuild.
We are expecting a baby and obviously will have to use a baby carrier/seat. I noticed that the rear doors do not open wide and a bit on the narrow side. Now to you fathers and mothers, how easily do you find getting the carrier in and out from the rear? Another concern is that my wife is on the short side and I just can't imagine her climbing the driver side with her big tummy. Since she will be the primary driver, this is a bit of a concern.
Overall, my LR experience has been pleasant so far. Our sales advisor, Gene, was top notch, very knowledgeable, and did not pressure us. What a relief! He went over all the safety features of the rig and I was quiet impressed with the construction and diagrams he showed us of the frame. We are scheduled to go back this weekend to test drive one. I will let you know how it goes. But for now, your thoughts/coments re: my concerns would be truly appreciated. Thank you.
Happy rovering to you soon!
Thank you very much for the info and tips. I truly appreciate it. I guess now comes the hard part, negotiating the price. I hope to be back on this forum with the news of finally owning one. Thanks again.
I hope to be back on this forum with the news of finally owning one.
We're looking forward to it!
tidester
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SUVs
1. Are you happy with LR vehicle, it's dependability,and dealer service?
2. Whats better, leather or fabric interior ? I have a 80 lb. Malamute so what will hold up better?
Any and all input will be very helpful and appreciated!
P.S. My first vehicle was a 1976 Jeep CJ5 and I currently drive a 1988 Honda Prelude SI. If I went with the LR, it would be my first LR......
Thanks All !
Smich, my brother-in-law has a 2001 SE up at Lake Tahoe and he prefers my Duragrain interior to his leather. The mountain dirt, grime, and snow takes its toll. Also, I don't have to worry about the McDonalds shakes, gum and baby sweat like he does.
So you have a cricket? How are your wheel bearings? The passenger side might be loose, letting the rotor chirp on the pads. Does it happen at all speeds? Does it go with road speed? Or is it with RPMs? I rode in a spanking new Toyota Land Cruiser and its owner was going nuts with a "cricket" sound that turned out to be air escaping the rear vents when the blower was on. Maybe you have a tired spot in your serpentine belt, and when turning hard left it's working your power steering pump hard, which aggravates the chirp? Or maybe the power steering pump mounts are just loose?
It's great to hear from you again... don't be a stranger!
-Bob
What a ball, except for one problem with the ACE light and a harrowing experience with a panic stop. I posted above that in high winds it seemed to me that the steering needed a "bit more attention", but responses were that no one else was having any problems. High winds existed most of the way but did not seem to be a problem on good road; on rutted road, or highway with worn tire impressions, the vehicle would move from side to side, or tend to follow the rut and I would have to gently nudge it out. I began to think it was the 18" tires that were the problem with their low profile. Then, the panic stop. A bunch of traffic in a caravan doing 75 when suddenly everybody is braking hard (still don't know why; everyone was approaching a crest and something happened on the other side that was gone by the time we got over). Anyway, I braked DII hard, it nose dived and the front end began shaking back and forth hard like a dog just getting out of the water. The wife--my sole companion--was screaming and I was praying. Thankfully, everyone came to a stop without anyone getting hit; and although the DII did maintain a true course when stopping (no fish tailing, etc.), that front end shaking back and forth like it did was harrowing to say the least.
Further down the road when I'm thinking this over, and still fighting the road/wind, I swear it feels just like under inflated tires, although before we left I double checked the pressure, 46psi rear and 28 front, cold.
To make a long story short, the next morning after a night's rest, I inflated the front tires to 37psi, cold, as it didn't seem to make any sense to have a 28 to 46 difference between the front and rear. WHAT A DIFFERENCE THAT MADE. Suddenly, tracking was great despite worn roadway and the wind--gusts around 30mph ment nothing. She ran true and pure, almost serene. I then tried a panic stop from 65mph (no one around) and it was totally different--no shaking of the front end--just a pure totally under control stop.
I notice the ride is a little stiffer around town, but it sure is worth it for the difference it makes on the highway. I will probably experiment with different pressures in the front to get a good balance, but in my opinion and experience, 28 is WAY TO LOW for the fronts, particular in a panic stop with that much weight being thrown forward.
As for the ACE problem, the YELLOW ACE light light kept coming on for no apparent reason periodically. I would pull off the road, turn off the ignition and restart and it would go out only to come on again about 50 or so miles later. I checked the fluid level and it was o.k. so I just kept on driving since the manual said to bring it to a dealer when convenient. Funny thing on the way back, though; it only come on once early on and when reset, it did not come on again. The system, by the way, seemed to be working well whether the light was on or off, as much as I could tell.
Otherwise, the trip was perfect. The sound system is superb
and easily "overpowers" wind noise when the dual sunroofs are open. I can't wait until next summer when we are due for some serious offroading--the reason we bought the thing in the first place after having a Grand Cherokee blow front drive shaft CV joints three times--in the New Mexico/Colorado/Utah areas. And, P.S., those new cup holders look awfully inviting for the the time we spend on the road getting there.
THREE QUESTIONS:
1. Anyone else have similar a tire experience?
2. Anyone have an idea why the ACE light is acting up?
3.Can I get the new cup holders installed on a 2001 console?
Now for my experience: I went with some REAL offroad tires once the stockers wore out. The ones I picked call for 80psi and that was awfully harsh on the road. I dropped all 4 tires to 55psi and I love how they work. No squirm, no deflection from ruts, they hold their max diameter when crawling, and no wiggles under hard braking.
It doesn't hurt anything to experiment, as you're doing. Just bear in mind that you're calling up different behaviours from the truck by doing so. Some will surprise you when you don't expect them.
Make sure you watch the tires as they wear... you should have even wear across the tread surface. Too much wear in the middle means you're overinflated and too much on the edges means the opposite. Also make sure to rotate front-to-rear every 5k miles, and to adjust the pressures when you do. This will delay the inevitable "cupping".
Happy Rovering! -Bob
Does the book say anything about tire pressures at high elevation?
tidester
Host
SUVs
As for Tincup's comment that the manufacturers test tire at various pressures, etc., this is true, but again I stress that 28psi in the front tires makes it handle like it has a flat and seems dangerous with high speed panic stops. Has anyone else experienced this sensation. And other than cornering as Nanuq said, does anyone know of any other adverse handling characteristics that could be expected with running the fronts at 37psi? Also tincup. what about the ACE light and cup holder question?