Land Rover Discovery and Discovery II

wishnhigh1

re those aftermarket front lockers, can the be locked from the cabin? For someone who is just interested in light offroading but heavy snow and mud use, would a Torsen be a better choice, or would you recomend lockers?

nanuq

I've looked quite awhile and found that your choice depends on your level of experience even more than what you want to do.

ARB lockers are incredible, but you have to use them RIGHT or you'll break parts in rocks and you'll put yourself off the road in ice and snow.

Torsen (or equivalent) are, in my humble opinion, the right choice for most. In ice and snow they'll send traction where you need it, but you have to watch for their weirdness too: climbing turns will be strange when you're on the throttle.

Look for Detroit Lockers (non-Torsen here), Tru-Trac, Quaiffe, etc. You can't go wrong, even fitted to front and rear axles. Just be prepared for a learning curve as you first use them. And consider the half-shaft upgrade if you'll be offroading much in summer.

My $.02 -Bob

nanuq

Good description of Detroit Locker vs. TrueTrac.

http://www.expeditionexchange.com/tractech/indexmain.htm

marsha7

Kull: I happen to be in Atlanta, but I thought the only approved Land Rover dealer was Hennessey, and they have three dealerships in the metro area

Nan: a curious question...since the Disco is not the most common SUV on the road, why would people trade it in after 9 months (I assume between 6K and 12K miles)...especially to a Rover dealer??? if they were dissatisfied with the vehicle you would find the Disco on OTHER dealer lots, where they were traded in for something else...the only reason comes to my mind is if they trade in on a Range Rover, but that is quite a $$$ jump from a Disco... also, what are the most common complaints upon trade-in, why trade in so soon if the vehicle is that good???...what should a 9 month old Disco sell for...28K?, 30K? more??? thanks.

Bob

kullenberg

Bear Valley Land Rovers is not ( to my knowledge) a franchised LR Center. In very basic terms, they are used car dealers that concentrate on LR's. It's interesting to go on their site and look at testimonials. They offer to give you contact info of those that will permit it. As to where the cars come from: a Disco ( and to a lessor extent, Range Rovers) require a "fine madness", to own. The technology is, for the most part old (LR says "proven"), the ergonomics of the cockpit is eccentric, but what they somehow have that other 4x4's don't is soul. I think they(Bear Valley) have become very good at picking up vehicles that owners have become disenchanted with, or low mileage trade in's from the auctions. Most will advise getting an extended warranty, but I'm convinced that you can do as well, by self insuring; ie put away two or three hundred into a fund to look after maint. ,after the warranty runs out. The good news here, is that if you don't use it you still have the money, whereas with an extended warranty, if you don't use it, it's gone.
XCheers
Pat

nanuq

That says it all. Marsha, some people don't want "soul" in their truck, they want an appliance that works first time, every time. Like a toaster. At the first sign of a problem they drop it like a hot potato. These are the people who bought it for what they THINK it is, not for what it truly is. They see romance in the truck's heritage, but they forget about its warts. They sign on the dotted line, then after a couple weeks they find a spot of oil on the garage floor. Or the "Check Engine" light comes on. Suddenly they worry that they've had a false hope about their vehicle. They realize there's a HUGE amount they don't know about this truck, and they worry that perhaps its beauty is only skin deep. So they scream "LEMON" and bring it back. Or they drop the truck for a song and buy an appliance 4WD, and then come to this forum and berate Land-Rover in general. That's where most of the brand's reputation for reliability issues arises.

Now consider the rest of us. We investigate the trucks before we buy. We know their history and we know they're hand-built (or WERE hand built ca. Before Ford). We understand that the truck's durability will more than make up for any initial build problems that may arise. We know that Land-Rover didn't get where they are by ripping people off... they build trucks that are known to be durable for a reason. So we bite the bullet and if there's a problem we expect Rover to stand on their reputation and fix it. We become happy owners (lunatics) and we take up the flame and defend the marque for what it still is: quirky and tough, with "soul". We become used to minor weirdnesses, and soon we begin to think of them as normal. We sort of enjoy the drop of oil on the floor, because we know it isn't empty yet. We understand that we're not winning any stoplight grands prix... but likewise we'll be the first (or only) ones to the top of the mountain. Our pleasure is found in a good set of tools and it happens at walking speed offroad... not flying around corners at mach speed. We tend to tread lightly, and we expect the trucks to give back as much or more than we give them.

After awhile people just distill this down to the common phrase "it's a love/hate thing".

Personally I'll never NOT have a Rover in my garage, for many reasons. Mine keeps me young.

Read this story. It was written by Matthew Parris and I've recreated it on my website:

  http://www.nanuq.net/Arnold's/Bob/LandRover.html

Best regards, -Bob

marsha7

I appreciate your extended explanation, and I can respect it for what it is...but I do have a realistic question...is the vehicle a reliable truck, something that should be expected to start and run a vast majority of the time???...I can tolerate some idiosyncrasy ("soul") in a quality vehicle, but if the vehicle will only run on dry days, or only starts and runs every alternating Tuesday and Thursday, that is a little too quirky for me...I think back to the old days of British Leyland, where the cars would never run in the rain or on days with high humidity, and you had to buy two vehicles of the one you want, one to drive and one for parts...if owning a Disco is like the old Leyland days, it may be too much for me, but if it just has an occasional quirk, I can live with it and love it, as most vehicles have an occasional quirk...I am not trying to be anal on this, but a Disco purchase for me would be a primary vehicle, something I expect to run most/all of the time, not spend two weeks per month in the repair shop, like American cars made in the early to mid 1980s...can I depend on a Disco, or am I destined to fall in love with the lift in my local repair shop???...thanks, again

rp_fencer

Guys,

Do you have any suggestion on what brand of tires I should get for my 00 Disco II. It's due in a month or so for replacement. I leave in the Bay Area (94404) and hope you can also provide a good tire dealership that I can go to.

I need an all season tire.

Tire size:
255/65R16
Goodyear Wrangler HP

Thanks

mrwhipple

The Pirelli Scorpion S/T is an excellent direct replacement. Smoother ride and much better handling than the Goodyears. Prices (about $119 ea.) on them are quite good & much cheaper than the Michelins.

The Pirelli site should be able to give you info on dealers in your area, or try tirerack.com

kullenberg

The Pirelli is an excellent choice. Another to look at, particularly if you expect to encounter any snow, is the Nokian WR, which is a M/S tire that is winter rated, and also comes in your exact size. It may be a little noisier. Here is a link to a tire size calculator http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html This allows you to see what variations in tire diam do to your speedo. The Nokians can be hard to find in some areas.

Cheers

Pat

kullenberg

I meant to post for you the link to Bear Valley Land Rovers; http://www.bvlandrovers.com/

Cheers

Pat

nanuq

Take a look at http://www.discoweb.org for their tire size recommendations.

nanuq

I understand your concerns. Rest assured that Land Rover is nothing like the quaint olde days of British Leyland. I had only one vehicle for 3 years, and it was my Disco. ONE TIME she failed to get me where I wanted to go, and back home again... and that was because a plate in the battery had broken and fallen over, shorting the battery internally. And I have to take personal blame for beating the battery to death (without touching it).

I have owned 13 Hondas in my life, 4 Fords, a Chevy, and a Chrysler. My Disco is as reliable as, or more so than, any of them. It's proven more reliable than 9 other vehicles in my immediate local family, over the last 4 years. Those vehicles were all sold or traded in... I still have my Rover. Those vehicles are: Ford Explorer (2x), Jeep Grand Cherokee (3x), Chrysler AWD minivan (2x), Chevy AWD Astro, Dodge Durango. Ford: drivetrain and transmission. Jeeps: transmissions. Chrysler: transmissions. Chevy: everything. Durango: transmission and rear axle.

As your primary driver, once you get any weirdnesses sorted out, she should prove utterly reliable. I must have got a "Friday Truck" because it took 2 years to sort my weirdnesses... but now I'm sure glad I took her "over the hump".

Regards, -Bob

kullenberg

Bob:
Your story by your friend about his series II, reminded me of a Brit I used to fly with in Nigeria. He and his wife drove a series III, lwb (109" I think), from London to Timbuctoo. He had it in mind to drive to Kano, Nigeria, and sell it there, but on the leg from Dakar to Timbuctoo, a particularly harsh jolt cut his wife's hand, which had been holding on to the expedition rack, for dear life. It became septic, and they had to sell the LR on the spot and fly her out for treatment. They owned a small hotel, east of Oxford, and always reminded my of the BBC comedy, "Fawlty Towers" The hotel always ran swimingly when he was off flying, but when he returned, everything went to ruin.
Cheers
Pat

denver8

In your earlier post you asked about people that traded in vehicles so quickly. I used to work with a guy that was into Jeep Cherokees. He would buy a new one like clockwork every year. He put about 30,000 miles on them within a year and he just liked new vehicles. He felt that keeping in new vehicles limited the problems.

Nanuq- I just read the article on your site by Matthew Parris. Thank you for that. I think the short answer is that for many people they want to make safe choices, be part of the in crowd. It is funny how everyone always seems to vote for the winning candidate. That is why Ford builds 300,000 explorers every year. Buyers have comfort in knowing that there is a bunch of people that have already made the decision for them. They think "I see Explorers all the time so they must be good vehicles". or " If I buy one just like my friend, coworker, cousin whatever..than it can't be a bad choice right..." and for the 2 billion people out there that buy vehicles for basic transportation that is probably a good way to buy a vehicle.

Yet there is that certain small percentage of people that consider vehicles more than basic transportation, and look for something that will keep that smile on their face long after the new car smell goes away. For those people they make Land Rovers, Jeeps, Porsches whatever kickstarts their morning. The point is that for some people vehicles are not meant to be simply practical transportation modes. Vehicles are not a "one size fits all" and that is what makes all the difference.

nanuq

Well said! A couple years ago I made an observation here about "appliance" vehicles and their lack of passion. I then related it to "appliance" wives and I was roundly spanked for it! But a few people understood. In my fiery Italian wife I cherish that part of her that is unpredictable. It is where I derive the biggest rewards and the biggest heartache. But I would never trade it for a woman who simply said "yes, dear" all the time.

Likewise, my Rover gives me enormous pleasure and has given me enormous heartache... and I'd never trade her for an "appliance" truck.

Life is too short to eat vanilla ice cream.

stever

Checking freezer... oh oh.

Steve, Host

nanuq

We got that covered here. Just set the freezer out on the deck and prop its door open. Freezer by Ferrari?

C'mon Steve, you're an old Sourdough too... you know the t-shirt by Steller Design: "I drive waaay too fast to worry about my cholesterol".

stever

I'm sorry - cars are mostly commodities to me. They enable me to get to a jumping off point (some guys like you "lock the hubs" then and keep going ). I prefer to genuflect to the river gods, not Lord Lucas (otherwise I would have chased after that TR6 harder a couple of months ago).

The nice thing about Edmunds is there's room for the enthusiasts and for the folks looking for the most bang for their buck with as little ownership hassle as possible. I do like the idea of letting someone else work the bugs out the first ~8 months!

Steve, Host

marsha7

kull: thanks for the website

all others: thanks for taking the time to give me your "inner feelings" about this vehicle...quite thoughtful...

rp_fencer

Thanks for all the input about the tires. One more thing. Do I need tire rotation, i mean is it required or an option for owners? I remember asking the service guy about the rotation but he said that Disco II don't need tire rotation. Is this true?

I have an uneven tire wear in both my front tires, I am scheduled to visit a service guy for check up (balancing if needed)

Thanks again for all the input

nanuq

"Only rotate the tires you want to keep."

You definitely want to rotate the tires. Go front-to-back on the same side of the vehicle, don't cross over to opposite side with them.

It is common to have "cupping" in your tread blocks on the front tires. It happened to every Disco I saw with the Michelin stock tires. Swapping the tires front to back will extend their life but it will not stop the cupping. I have not heard a reasonable solution to why this happens.

When you rotate your tires make sure you reset the pressures when you're done. Mine called for 28F and 38R.

Also when she's up on stands doing the rotation, check your brake pads. They wear quickly and it's an amazingly easy job to change them yourself. Very satisfying.

When you replace your tires take a look at tires with less of a "block" pattern and you'll have less cupping.

Best regards, -Bob

rp_fencer

Thanks a lot Bob!

nanuq

When you change your brake pads, don't just push the calipers back in... that forces dirty/wet brake fluid back up the lines to the ABS pump. It doesn't like that a BIT.

Rather, crack open the bleed screws and let it bleed fluid as you push the calipers in. Make sure not to let any air in there when you relieve your "push". You'll want to bleed them again when you're finished. And then replenish the brake fluid chamber just to keep everyone happy.

Go ahead and be extravagant when you bleed the lines... it changes out a lot of the old nasty fluid in your calipers and that will prolong your slave cylinders' life.

Regards

r178

Hello all!! (Before I begin I would like to apologize for my random babling)
AAAAAAHHHHHH!!! I’ve finally did it!! No, not purchased a Range, But simply reading all of the post in this forum!! Yes, I started at Post #1 and stopped at #2373 Only took 7 days to read each post in its entirety and also view the links that were posted. I must say you Land Rover owners are one of a kind. LOL (Good thing) And some of you had me afraid for a minute there.
Although I am not “YET” the owner of a Range I am soon to be in the ranks.
Here is my dilemma I am in the US Navy, stationed in Honolulu, Hawaii. (one dealer on the island)I’ve been interested in the Rovers for quite some time for many numerous reasons. I don’t intend on doing any “muddin” (intentionally that is), And I am too young to become a Mini Van Man. This vehicle is my #1 Draft pick for its safety, ruggedness, room etc. My wife and I are newly weds and are expecting an additional member of the family.
I have researched this vehicle in and out(Except for the insurance portion). Thanks to you guys I’ve learned about the X-plan. My stepfather works at a ford dealership back home in North Carolina. (Life is full of surprises ;^)
After giving my life story trust me I didn’t come all this way to not ask you Vets' any questions. But I must say I did learn a lot from just starting at Post #1. The links that were listed were very helpful.
Question 1. One of the reasons I haven’t picked this vehicle up yet is. I’m due to transfer/rotate in Oct 03, If Uncle Sam sends me to lets say Japan, will my vehicle be honored/repaired under warranty? And also, it will be purchased under American specs, will the Japanese mechanics have a problem with this? (Japan is just an example although it is on my list of future Duty Stations, I could end up in Alaska with ol' Nanuq)
(RUN-ON Question) Another good thing about this is, If I’m stationed in England I can go to the plant and pick 'er out by hand from the factory, I don't know if they offer this service like BMW in Germany. A lot of Sr. Service Members taught me about this, I’d just have to wait until I was returning back to the states which would probably be in 2005/06 so that it will be fresh upon my returning.
My wife and I were watching the Wedding Planner (I know, I know, a girly flick but....J.LO was in it!!) they featured a Discovery, Initially she said “it’s to much of a tall box”, but then during the girly flick she said “hey that looks roomy, and its growing on me” Only because I’ve been bugging her every day!
I will not drench you guys with all of my questions...as of yet that is...But I shall return!
You guys/gals have been great!
Mahalo and Aloha

wishnhigh1

about pre-2003 disco, which did not have the lockable center differential. Did it use the traction control system as the only means to send torque back and forth between the front and rear differentials? Is there a limited slip differential at all?

nanuq

My '96 DI has a locking center diff. When the DII was first released it also had the locking center diff but there was no lever inside the cabin (but if you crawled beneath the truck...)

Deductive reasoning says therefore there is no viscous coupling between front and back axles, since the lock would be employed instead. By removing the lever I doubt they altered the trans internals.

HOWEVER... according to Tincup the trans has now been reworked. But I still don't think there's a viscous coupling in there.

Easy way to check: what does the transfer case call for... ATF or 90w? Rangies used ATF and had viscous coupling. Discos ca. "locking diffs" use 90w.

FWIW the traction control works pretty well without a central locking diff. But the ability to lock your axle diffs AND the central diff is pretty unstoppable.

Regards, -Bob

tincup47

The 03 Discoverys do not have center diff-lock. Their was a late change on this, it is now expected for 04 MY. The traction control is the only means used to control slip for all Discovery II's.

tidester

I am duly impressed!

tidester, host

marsha7

optional pet barrier, or something that goes behind the second row of seats to restrict the dog to the rear of the vehicle, but allows freedom of movement within the space???...I hate to chain/leash a dog in the car when traveling with her...

nanuq

Take a loot at Atlantic-British, they have all kinds of accessories for your truck.

http://www.roverparts.com

tincup47

There is a dog guard available, P/N STC50082AA. As with all Land Rover accessories bought at time of delivery of new vehicle, warranty is for the full length of the vehicle warranty. Normal warranty is 12 months/unlimited miles for kit items purchased later.

schoolerlake

I too, like r178, just completed reading this discussion, from beginning to end. I'm now getting close to the purchase of a RRC. Thanks for all the great info so far. The knowledge on this board is outstanding. People with a good sense of humor helps too. Now the business; I'm looking at a 95 RRC with the last 8 vin digits of sa655097. Tincup could you give me a "born-on-date" and any service info. I'm test driving the vehicle tomorrow. Thanks in advance.

tincup47

That was built on 07/29/94. Last reported mileage to us was 34,535. It has had quite a few warranty repairs, all minor and not out of the ordinary for this vehicle.

nanuq

Tincup, is this the one that had all the problems with the rear air suspension?

r178

Tidester. Does anyone have any info about the initial question I posted (See post 2374) on Rover w/ American specs' being warranted over seas? All and any info is greatly appreciated.
Thanks in Advance!!
V/R R178

tidester

I wasn't able to find anything directly related to your question. I would think that with so many people in a similar situation surely someone somewhere knows the answer! If anyone has any ideas, please share!

Thanks.

tidester, host

tincup47

The 95 Range Rovers had no major issues with air suspension. The main issue with any vehicle with air suspension is the high cost associated with repairs, especially to the compressor assembly.

schoolerlake

I test drove the 95 RRC. It has some of the usual problems; leaking steering box, right swivel ball leaks (makes me wonder what's wrong with the left swivelball), power seats and mirrors don't work when under way, CEL and SRS lamps lit. The good new is that the air suspension works, no rust, and all the other electrical stuff works. Not bad shape for 65k miles. The problem is that Carfax turned up a salvage title in the past. The title is clear now. The salvage title showed up at 53K. The question is should this vehicle be avoided because of the salvage title? Should the price just be discounted? If so, by what percentage? Should I run, not walk away from this deal? Your opinions are appreciated.

kimobonn

Well, I finally did it. It only took me a year and a half, but I decided to go for it. I purchased a "new" 2002 DiscoII SE (white with bahama leather). Hi TinCup, if at all possible could you tell me a little about it? The vin is: salty15422a746401 I do know it was a land rover loaner car, and it has close to 13k. According to the service people, it has had it's 7500 mile service, but if I am reading the papers correctly, they did not do it until around 12k miles (that would not be good ). I also know that they had to do a little paint work due to a slight scrape or something (I can't even tell). All that I know, is that I love it. Now, for the little things that drive me a little nuts. First, when going over bumpy roads, I hears this creaking/poping noise coming from the rear. It appears to be coming from the storage bins in the back, anybody else have this? I also noticed some of the same creaking noise from the front dash. Other than that, it is great.

nanuq

I never heard noises like that from my storage bins. I wonder if your rear door is not shutting right? It may be partially latched. It's a simple adjustment to get the right close on it... have them tweak it and make sure it's shut tight.

Congratulations!

djxerx

I'm getting ready to make the plunge into a used Disco II, 99 or 2000 model. Looking at "certified" models from the dealer vs. Disco's from general used car lots. Obviously the latter are cheaper. A couple of questions:

Original 4 yr or 50k miles warranty. Can anyone point me to a full statement of terms or give personal experiences? In addition to major work, is this practical for fixing a broken cup holders or sticky door latch? Is there a deductible?

I understand that if I buy a "certified" model from the dealer, I get another 12 mo or 12k miles with option to extend. But I understand there is a $100 deductible.

For a similar price I could get "certified" 99 LR with 50K miles, but it would have the extra 1 year warranty from the dealer. Or I could get a 2000 or 2001 with 1-2 years and 20k-25k left on the original warranty. Any thoughts on comparisons between the warranties, or the value?

Also, any opinions on buying vehicles that had been leased? If I'm looking at a previously leased vehicle, should I be concerned that LR sent it to auction rather than certifying it and selling it to their own dealers?

rkoesler

Be sure to lubricate all door strikers with grease as that will stop a lot of creaking noises, especially from the rear cargo door. You'll need to do that about once a month. Also be sure to have the dealer check and tighten the Watts linkage bolts in the rear as they will loosen and make noise. Also, sometimes the rear exhaust pipe is too close to the Watts linkage and will lightly knock against it. Also, when the weather is cold, the rear suspension bushings will creak - on that you have to turn up the radio (or you can lube the bushings with brake fluid to stop the noise). Good luck with your LR and welcome to the Rover Nuts crew.

kimobonn

Ok, so I have been wondering. What type of services can I have done outside of the dealer? I will probably have my oil change/alignment done at the dealer, but was thinking that it would be a lot cheaper to have brakes/tire rotation/balance/etc done at other locations (brakes plus, etc). Does anybody on this list agree/disagree? I bring this up, as I was talking with a LR dealer, and they stated brakes would cost around 300 per axle, and that seems a little steep to me. (is there anything "specail" about LR brakes?)

Kimo

nanuq

You can have almost anything done at a reputable non-LR shop. Some things (electrical) I would take only to the LR shop, as they have intimate knowledge of how it all works together. Some other things are LR recommended (like auto trans service) since there are "must-dos" to make it work. Example: you drop the frame cross-member using a hydraulic spreader to get the trans pan off. Other shops might not know this.

As for oil change, rotations, brakes, belts, suspension work, etc... this is basically a simple V8 engine with simple suspension. Any good shop should be able to handle it.

As for brakes: you can do them yourself with your eyes closed. It is a fantastic, and very simple design. I bet you'd get a kick out of changing pads yourself, and it gives you a bit of a "connected" sense of your truck to have got your hands grubby on her.

The only way it should be $300/axle is if they change the rotors... and the rotors should last about 3-4 sets of pads. I've changed my pads 3x by 73k miles and my rotors are still within spec. But use soft pads to extend the rotors' life... I used Wagners or Lockheed and they work great.

There's nothing magic about LR brakes, just stout calipers and soft rotors. Crack the bleed screw, push the pistons back in, pop in new pads, reattach the calipers, and bleed it. Simple and easy.

While you're at it (and that side of the truck is up in the air) rotate your tires front to back. It will prolong their life too. Check your pressures before you drive: the book calls for 28F and 38R on my DI.

Enjoy! -Bob

schoolerlake

I didn't get the '95 RRC with the salvage title. Something just wasn't right about the whole deal. Anyway I'm now looking at a '97 Rangie 4.6 with the last eight on the VIN of VA373256. Tincup could you get me the build date and warranty info.

2963

Greetings -

Took one for a test-drive yesterday, and quickly determined that it's built like a brick sh**house!
Opening the rear gate was like pulling on the door of a bank vault...

A drive onto the "off-road simulator" at the LR dealership quickly eliminated several of the other 4WD/AWD SUV competitors I had considered in my $40K price range; unbelievable performance and ability! I'd love to see if how well an Acura MDX, Toyota 4-runner, or Infiniti QX4 would fare on that simulator.

I would have liked to sample a vehicle with the ACE suspension enhancement, but the salesman advised that they are a rare find in the Southern California area. Any comments from Disco owners with this feature would be greatly appreciated, as it will help me decide if I should wait for the availability of a vehicle so equipped.

Also, the 320-watt Harmon Kardon audio system sounded great, but I had some serious reservations about the effectiveness and "user friendliness" of the accompanying GPS navigation system. The nav. screen was tiny, and was completely washed out from the driver's seat when viewed with polarized sunglasses. Any feedback on the worthiness of this option would be appreciated as well...

mrtoad3

From my own experiences, I believe ACE is a nice feature if you will be predominantly travelling on pavement. It provides a very level and stable ride that is similar to a car lower to the ground like a sedan. I live in the mountains and have found it to be great on those hills and curves. If you will be doing much offroading, then go with the standard suspension. The tires and rims are better suited to offroading. The 18" tires of the ACE vehicle are prone to pinch-flats on large rocks due to the short sidewall. Also, it is more difficult to find snowtires for the 18" wheels. My '02 Disco has the ACE and I am going to be forced to change wheels in order to get Nokian snowtires or go offroad regularly. I hope this helps with your decision.

smokyman

I do a lot of my own minor service. I live 2 hours from the nearest dealer.
I get my parts from British Atlantic and thier "ask a Pro" guy e-mailed me a couple service centers closer that order from them regularly and have some LR service training. Try them.
MY local repair shop is more afraid of LR than I am. I have had a few responses like that when I have called other service places.
Most ask (in a severe mountain accent like the type you heard say "squeel like a pig boy" in Deliverance) "Land Rover? WHo makes that?" I had one guy tell me he wasn't comfortable doing a front end alignment on one (about as easy as it gets - I got lazy).
Try roverparts.com for the ask a pro phone number and ask them who in your area services LR.
Good luck and good driving
KW

smokyman

I thought I had the same problem. I kept checking when I stopped or got back on road - then noticed that I only had the rattling when the sunroofs were open.
Might be that simple -
Ken