Land Rover Discovery and Discovery II

odiopus

I too have had bad luck with these tires. I have 28K on my '01 Disco and the tires are cupped very badly... The tread is at about 50%. I was concerned about the annoying whoomping sound so I took my Disco in to the dealer and they verified that there was nothing wrong with the vehicle and that I should consider getting new tires. Neddless to say, Goodyear was not willing to offer me a pro-rate on new tires and they wanted $249.00 a tire. So off I went to a nearby tire center and was told by a technician that the tires did not were as they are supposes to and assured me that there was no safety hazards if I kept the tires on until the tread wore a little more. He also said that a few thousand miles should take care of the uneven tire wear and the noise should go away once they wear properly. I think I can deal with the whoomp for a couple thousand miles rather than shelling out $1,000 for tires. If you are in the market for a new disco that is stocked with the 18" Wrangler HPs, ask them if they would consider switching them out for the Michellin tires. I've heard that a few dealers have done this...

Odiopus

nanuq

Hmmmmmm as long as they don't include the Boat-tail Auburn in the mix, I'll vote for Land Rover! Nice catch, Steve-O. There'a a supercharged convertible Auburn running around town now and wow is it a beast. Lovely to hear.

nanuq

For sure I'd take it to a ROVER shop and have them pull the history by VIN, and do some checks. 134k is not unreasonable, there are Discos with a LOT more miles than that. A buddy of mine, Mike Green, owns West Coast British in LA and last time I talked with him he had 650,000 miles on his '96 Disco.

There is no such thing as offering to low on the price. Take your starting point, say $7,000. Add in the price of a new alternator, ABS pump, power steering pump and timing chain... you're looking at failures in any/all of those eventually and you'll spend a couple Large replacing them. That puts you right into the asking price ballpark.

'Course I tend to be direct in my manner and negotiations so your mileage may vary. But I'd go low and let them convince me it's worth more.

Good luck!

brandmar

Does the 2000 LR DII have steering wheel mounted radio controls? I don't remember seeing them when I test drove the truck.

tincup47

Steering wheel audio controls are standard equipt on all trim levels of the Discovery II from 99-03.

pkc4

I am considering buying Discovery HSE with Rear Seat + DVD + Rear A/C and few extra accessaries (Any suggestions). What is a reasonable price to pay , i.e below MSRP/Invoice?? and by how much. I live in bay area San Francisco.

When are 2004 model due to arrive?

Thanks in a dvance.

disco99

HEY TINCUP,
My VIN ends with XA233193-Can you please tell me at your convenience if and when any warranty repairs were done on my truck-and whether they were anything major--thanks a million-
all you guys in this forum have spared many spankings from the dealer(ext warr...tuneups etc)

cwdavis4

I was wondering if anyone has purchased any of these accessories for their Discovery? I have a new Discovery and thought these might be useful.

1) Skid Plates? Do you really need them? (Front Axle, Front Steering, Rear Diff, or Fuel Tank)
2) Roof Rail Extension? I really would like longer roof rails since the current configuration puts all your gear right on top of the front sunroof area. My understanding though it requires some drilling. Do I need to have the dealership install them?
3) Remote for SLS? I believe you can’t lower the suspension (from the normal height) on the LR without it. But did you really need to?
4) LR Discovery toolkit? Believe it or not there is one from LR. Supposedly LR included the tools for most maintenance jobs. I was thinking it might be good when off-roading in case something broke.
5) Recovery kit? Any general recommendations for items to take when doing some general off-roading? I will mainly be doing day trips and probably within 1-2 hr from home with cell phone coverage.

Thank you for any insight!

nanuq

I did a little checking and your truck was one of those that were airdropped into the Grenadines by the British SAS. It received "minor" damage and has had its drivetrain replaced by that of a Nash Metropolitan. I recommend never opening the bonnet. Er, "hood".

Just kidding.

nanuq

1 - Skid plates are useful if you think you'll ever have to slide a hard part over an obstacle (much like sill rock sliders). Sometimes a wheel won't quite reach the ground past a rock or root and a slider will get you over the hump to traction again. But it is spooky what you can get away with even NOT having them... amazing clearance!

2,3 - No idea

4 - I'd purchase my own tools piecemeal and get top quality... perhaps cheaper than Rover sells them for. For most maintenance items you'll use a 1/2" socket driver and just a few sizes. Also some big weird tools like 2-1/8" sockets or spanners. There are BIG fasteners on that truck and you likely don't want to tote thode tools along for offroading. You'll also find the lug wrench is the same size as some of your drain bolts, as is the nose of your 1/2" socket drive. For offroading I bring traction items, duct tape, wire, pliers, screwdrivers, and a couple lengths of light rope. You'll likely not break anything beneath your truck, but you might tear stuff off. The rope and tape will hold them together till you get home. Consider oddball breaks too, like twisting a Hookes joint apart. Can you wire up the broken driveshaft and/or unbolt it? Think about mounting some jakes rings to your chassis for recovery and you're ready to go!

bwally6

I'm sure the answer to this question has been posted many times, but please bear with me as I don't get to spend much time on these boards. I have a 2001 SD7 with about 20,500 miles -- the bulk of which is around town vs. highway driving. The brakes are just beginning to squeal a bit (I think it's the fronts) and I'm wondering if this is typical mileage for first time brake maintenance or not? Also, is there a strong bias or reason to have a dealer do any required work, or would most brake shops be up to the task? Thanks for your help?

nanuq

I replace my brake pads about every 17k miles so you may be ready for replacements. Check them soon, if they're thru to the backing and grinding your rotors you can do some big damage in a hurry.

The rotors are readily visible thru the wheels and from beneath the truck... look for concentric gouges or "rough" places. The rotor surface should look uniformly nice and smooth like a big skillet... but don't expect them to look smooth and polished. Concentric rough circles are an indication the pads are down to the backing at that spot (radially from the center).

Check around at parts houses for pads... Lockheed and Warner make aftermarket pads that work about as well as the stockers. Maybe not quite as well in the wet. I use soft pads to preserve my (harder) rotors.

If you can run a floor jack, pliers and socket set you can replace your own pads, nearly with your eyes closed. Once she's on jackstands, you can seriously replace the pads on a wheel in 15 minutes or less. It's that simple. Sorta fun too! For real fun, jack up front AND back on that side of your truck and rotate the tires front to back and replace both pad sets. I think I pay around $40 for an axle's worth of pads.

While she's up in the air have a look around and get to know what she looks like. Check fasteners for tightness, and see if there are dark streaks where fluids may be leaking and blowing aft. Give the driveshafts a good twist and see if there are any clanks. Check the tie rod ends for sloppy fit, and make sure the shocks aren't leaking. Just look around and enjoy the truck.

Regards, -Bob

wallytrucker

i'm looking @ a 96 se7 with 4.0 v8 with 98k, what major work is upcoming seems like clean trk.. what about fuel mileage( other than lousey) new to site , great info already thanx greg

disco99

hey nanuq,
i'm starting to think that you're probably as funny as I am. good one..

I'm officially in the market for a discoI model-my beautiful pregnant wife has hijacked my car--she loves it--I'm now stuck with a 1999 sebring JXI conv--I was going to ask her for a divorce but that would mean good bye to my disco II for good, my kids and my home.......
I'll be reading your previous posts on the 96 disco I-any further insight would be greatly appreciated---
disco99 victim

jday1978

I am looking to buy a 97 or 98 Disco. I am interested in having as much research done into the condition of the vehicle. I see that a # of folks have talked about searches by vin # (other than carfax I assume) that indicate the work that has been done on the vehicle. Any tips on how that works who or where I can contact to get that done. I want to get something I can keep of about 40-50m miles.

Also, I have had two Troopers and like the unique characteristics, so I thought Disco would be a nice step up. Any tips on what to expect with upcoming service (the Discos I am looking at are in the 60-70m range. I have narrowed my choice down to 3-4 vehicles.

burosky

Read my posting from a couple of months back. I had my brakes and rotors replaced at around 20,500. I first tried to just have the pads replaced but the squeaking didn't stop. Eventually, I had to get the rotors replaced too. This added about $200 to the total. Had I done it in one shot it would have been cheaper. By the way, if you are considering using the ventilated rotors, you would want to use the kevlar pads. You can probably save by getting a brakes package from Atlantic British and just pay for labor (if you are mechanically challenged like me). I didn't have to go through the dealer. I just went to a local shop that had experience with Discos. One good way to know if they've had experience is if they have wear and tear parts for discos in their inventory. This tells you it's part of their clientele. The shop I went to showed me the pads they can use. I had a choice between genuine rover parts and some other brand I can't remember. I chose the genuine rover pads. Since it wasn't kevlar, I had to use the regular rotors (non-ventilated). Hope this helps.

nanuq

Disco99, you're gonna have to find a new moniker now! Seriously I bet you'll find the DI is the better truck over the DII. I really prefer them.

Take a look back thru the archives... I see these "tell me about the 96es" questions and once in awhile I get talkative and I write a novel about what to look for. The main issue is sticking exhaust valves. Everything else is a simple problem, or better described as an irritation.

To look up a truck's history by VIN, go to a Rover dealer (or ask Tincup here). If any work was done at a Rover service center it will be entered and retrievable by VIN. Any dealer can bring it up for you. If you find a dealer willing to do this, chances are he wants your business even if you don't buy from him. Tread lightly, this is a freebie service they're giving you.

Good luck with your search! I really think the 96-98 Discos are the best of the batch.

stopgo1

Yesterday evening I started my 03 HSE and 4 warning lights remained illuminated on the dashboard instrument panel. The indicators that stayed lit are the "Brake", "ABS", "TC", and "Hill Descent Control".

If I turn the truck off and then on again only the "ABS" light stays on. Then it may or may not eventually go off on it's own.

I have not come across anything in the manual about multiple warning lights being lit. Has anyone experienced anything like this??

Thanks

sbcooke

I have a trooper, however feel that I can adequately answer this...If you are going to do any moderate offroading (except for maybe sand dunes) I would get them. I know that after one trip where I heard a thud and later checked the underside to find the gas tank armor dented, I was happy to have them. I have numerous scrapes on mine at this point, not from very rough terrain, but an occasional log, rock or something.

However if the most action you will see is a dirt road or snow, you can save on weight, perhaps ground clearance and purchase price, it might be best to skip them.

disco99

hey nanuq and tincup,
I notice you've posted a few times on the range forum-I've been looking into some discoI's(96_98) as you suggested-how about a mid 90's range-any pros and cons-
thanks as always

lynnejacob2001

I have a '96 Discovery which I love. However, recently the Anti-Lock light and the Check Engine Light came on. Took it to the dealer who said the ABS pump is bad. Part alone is $2400.00. By the time I do all the work to get reset the service lights it is going to cost me $3500.00.

In doing some research on this message board I found that there are, potentially, 2 other major system failures awaiting me between miles 80k and 100K. I asked the dealer to do a quick once over to see if anything looks bad and they said everything is fine.

Does anyone know how much more I can expect to spend on the other two systems that are likely to fail(Power steering pump and timing chain)?

As much as I love the truck, I may be forced to trade it if I can expect to have huge repair bills for the next few years.

Thanks,

nanuq

(Looking left and right to make sure nobody is looking)

My ABS pump has been dead for a year and I personally like it that way... makes it lots easier to work with offroad and in the ice and snow. Just my personal opinion. If I was looking at $2400 to replace it, I'd instead put in some lockers and buy some premium tires (Nokian Hakka LT-10s) and call it good.

For what it's worth, I lived for 25 years behind a steering wheel in Alaska without ABS and I survived nicely.

What did the dealer say is the *specific* reason for the check engine light? Many events can set the light, from a bad gas cap to sticking exhaust valves. Have him tell you exactly what the problem is... it may not be that big of a deal. Especially on a '96. I've got one and I've found a few things that are easy fixes that solve the problem.

As for the ABS pump... if you feel you must have it operable, ask around at Rover wreckers and parts houses like Atlantic-British and British Bulldog. A quick Google search will give you a list.

Regards, -Bob

brandmar

I believe that the 2000 DII's engine is immobilized when locked with the remote on the key, but does the key have a chip in it where IT can only start the engine? My insurance company is asking for a copy of this info and all I can find in my manual is the info about the key remote. If it does, does anyone know where I can get a copy of this info? It's going to save me on my insurance. Thanks in advance.

blockislandguy

I've never even heard of an ABS pump before. Let alone one that cost $3500 with installation. (Then again I've never heard of a tranny without a dipstick either until this board.)

What gives? Do all cars have them? My wife and I have a fleet of 6 vehicles with assorted mileage figures ranging up to 200K plus on an F350 rack body and no one has ever mentioned an ABS pump let alone suggested that we replace one.

The more I read this board the more I'm amazed that people would buy these things. And to think that my mother's 1964 Buick Skylark engine is the basis for the current 4.6!

tincup47

The Discovery II does not have a chip in the key. The remote control for the alarm system is part of the key and is configured for the vehicle by the retailer. So no other remote can disable the alarm system. But if someone has a duplicate mechanical key without the remote can disable the alarm and start the vehicle. This will be changed in the future (not sure when) to the system used on the New Range Rover and Freelander that have chips in the keys.

tincup47

All late model vehicles with ABS have ABS pumps. The system has to be able to pressurise the fluid independent of the pressure applied by the driver for the system to operate. It would probably be best if you familiarize yourself with how vehicle systems operate before commenting on the level of componentry necessary. These are very expensive components to replace if they fail (and like everything else automotive, all manufacturers experience failures on these items) but fortunately they do not fail at any specific mileage or very often. I worked at a dealer that sold Japanese vehicles in the mid 90's and an ABS pump then cost a similar amount.

lynnejacob2001

Of the $3500.00 repair, 2900.oo is the ABS pump. The part is $2400.00 and labor was 500.00. The rest was for the reset of the check engine light. That light was on because the speed transducer was not operating. It also needed a major tune-up.

I was shocked by the cost of repair. I understand I still have two major components that will need replacing between 80K-100K miles, power steering pump and timing chain. Anyone know how much I can expect to spend on those?

tincup47

After doing some further research it seem the nomenclature the dealer used is incorrect. The part replaced was more likely the ABS modulator which has the electronic solonoids the ABS ECU uses to release pressure on the individual calipers to let the affected wheels unlock. It is this part that is common on every vehicle with anti-lock brakes. The Range Rover has a slightly different system that actually uses an ABS pump assembly, that could be where the confusion with the component name arose. Apologies to Blockislandguy for my comments.

div2

Every car I've owned since 1988 has come with ABS standard-with the exception of my 1999 Wrangler and my 1984 Turbo T-Bird beater. I've never had an ABS pump fail, but then I change my brake fluid(using only ATE DOT 4 fluid) every 12 months on my track car and every 24 months on my street/off road vehicles. I wouldn't be surprised if old, moisture saturated brake fluid played a role in the demise of the ABS pump in question. And nope, I won't do without ABS on road or track.

charlie2k2

99% chance at least one of the ABS sensors has gone out. I had this happen twice with my 2003 (seperate sensors). The other lights come on when this happens and then usually go out except for, you guessed it, the ABS light. This is under warranty. So far, at least with my vehicle, once each sensor is fixed, it stays fixed. Take it in to the Service Center and they should take care of you (they will probably provide you with a loaner-car free of charge to you) and the lights should stay off.

Don't worry, your car will still brake in the meantime and nothing will explode from the sensor being out!

brandmar

Thanks for the info. I had a feeling it didn't but hoped that it would be like my FL. Oh, well. I'll just have to pay more in insurance.

wasko

All,

I've posted here since 1998 and still lurk occasionally, although my newborn daughter and work have limited the time I'm online I'm on my 3rd Rover - had a '96 DI, '97 Defender, and now have an '01 DII. I too miss my DI (as Nanuq STILL posts about the merits of the DI over the DII ).

Daughter was born on 7/10/03 of this year and I drove pregnant wife to the hospital that night for delivery. We knew before birth that our daughter was going to need immediate surgery so I left the Rover at the hospital where my wife was staying and drove down to Children's Hospital in Seattle in the ambulance (as an aside, surgery went very well and baby is doing wonderful!).

Wife's sister was flying in that night to stay with my wife while I was at Childrens. Plan was for her to taxi to wife's hospital and then drive the Rover. Next AM, her and my son were driving home to let the dogs out and a lady pulled out in front of my sister in law to make a left turn. The lady never stopped at the stop sign and never even looked.

Sis-in-law broadsided the lady (more on the Rover passenger side) at 45mph. Nobody was hurt in the accident but the other lady's VW Jetta was completely totaled.

Looking at the Rover, you would have thought it was a 10-15mph fender bender. Bumper was a bit crumpled, as was the fog lights, and a couple creases in the right front quarter panel. The speed of the impact snapped the tie rod, which flew up underneath the Disco and cracked the oil pan. Aside from the broken tie-rod and leaking pan, the vehicle could have been driven away from the accident.

Final tally was a bit more. New tie-rod, suspension, alignment, oil pan, and steering column, plus a bit of body work. I had a slight alignment problem (cupping tire problem all have posted about on this forum) before the accident. After they aligned, it drives better now than before it went in the shop. (Knock on wood - hope it stays solid and sound!).

All in all, when I went to the body shop a couple days after the accident to pickup my personal belongings out of the Disco, you could barely tell it was involved in a 45mph collision. These things are tough as nails and that alone is worth the minor nuances we suffer as Disco owners

Cheers and happy Rovering,

Wasko

smarticus

There is no denying Disco's are as tough as nails - but there is a downside to that quality. Last week my wife arranged a child minder to look after our daughter whilst the wife set off to go shopping in town. The childminder rather thoughtlessly parked her car right behind the wife's DII which, needless to say, the wife didn't notice until she set off backwards. The gap between the vehicles was only 2 feet and my wife claims she set off backwards at a normal, slow, speed - but, childminders car looked very poorly indeed. Bonnet is buckled up 4 inches, bumper written off, headlight unit reduced to small pieces and wing bent back like a sardine tin lid being opened. The DII? only a cracked indicator lense. Cost to fix DII was £8 for the lens, cost to fix the childminders car - £1,450 - ouch ! That is one expensive trip to town (by the way she still went and spent a lot there too :-)

nanuq

I was rear-ended last winter by a lady in a Toyota Camry, she slid right into me ar a red light. I saw her coming and cringed, then went back after the impact to look. Her car was all over the intersection, pieces everywhere. the hood was crumpled, lights smashed, fenders bent back and in. I crawled under the back of Anuqa and there was one tiny chip of black paint missing from my bumper. It didn't even crack the dirt caked onto my trailer hitch. I felt fortunate, and felt pretty badly for her. She also had no insurance and was pretty happy to leave having done no damage to my truck.

About the ABS modulator... that's the big expensive looking piece at the firewall, driver side on the DI. It has more hoses and lines than the Anchorage Fire Department. I can BET it's an expensive piece!

If you keep your brake fluid clean the ABS pump itself should last at least 100k miles. An alternator will be about $350 for the part... the price may have gone up in the last couple years.

The comment about the ABS sensor being the part that failed is right too... they push down into the shim stack at the top of the swivel ball and it's amazingly easy to bash one with snow or twigs. If they're pushed too far back or out then they don't send a reasonable signal and come up "failed" at the OBDII brain. Try wiggling each front sensor and pushing it SLIGHTLY down into the stack... drive it and see what happens. Jam the brakes on dirt and see if the ABS works. I doubt the Check Engine Light will go out of its own accord. But if the ABS is working at all 4 corners you're home and dry.

Regards, -Bob

blockislandguy

Thanks to the recent posts on ABS pumps and braking systems, I now have some understanding why brake fluid should be changed regularly. I used to think that the BMW types who changed their's regularly were just being compulsive. Now I know better.

cwdavis4

I heard there was a Land Rover Magazine (actually one for the US and another for UK). Is this true? The only reference for the US version I could find is off of amazon and it shows it is a bi-weekly magazine with a cost around $10/issue (~$237/year). Seems a little pricey.

wasko

cwdavis4,

There are actually quite a few published out of the UK. Barnes and Noble and Borders carry many of them, depending on your location.

Offhand, there is Land Rover Owner International (LROI), Land Rover Enthusiast, Land Rover Magazine, and Land Rover Monthly.

Prices range from $6-10 for a single copy so I think the price you quote above is inline with newstand prices before discount. If I remember correctly, I subscribed to LROI 2 years ago (2 yr subscription) for $160, or $80 a year, or $6.67 an issue. Not exactly a great discount.

Beware though. Having them in the house will cause sudden urges to buy and restore a Series IIa or other vintage Rover! You'll also oogle all the aftermarket accessories available on the other side of the pond.

Thx, wasko

brandmar

I just bought a 2000 DII and to me the brakes seem very weak. Sometimes I feel as if the truck isn't going to stop. I feel like I have the pedal to the floor and it's not stopping quick enough. The truck was certified by the dealer, if that means anything, so I don't know if it's just me and I have to get used to the brakes, or that there might be something wrong. I think I am going to call the dealer tomorrow and set up an appointment. Any thoughts?

wasko

Brandmar,

They're very soft - much more so than most vehicles, esp. in this weight class. Whenever I switch to my wife's BMW X5, I just about put everyone through the front windshield when braking.

I think that it is normal DII behavior - having softer brakes.

Thx, wasko

brandmar

"Soft" was the word I was looking for, not "weak". Thank you. So, it's not just me. I'll put off my trip to the delaer. It's a little unnerving when you're pushing the pedal and you keep going. I'll just have to get used to it. Thanks for the reply.

white20

I'm in a similar situation to message 3088. I have a 99 DiscoII and I live in a warm climate but travel often with some light offroad activiyy.

Any recommendations from experience. I'm not wild about the OE.

Pirelli?
michelin?

Thanks.

nanuq

About the soft brakes, you'll find that Rovers are designed with long-travel controls. You have to push the throttle and brakes a LOOONG way to get a full stroke from the pedals. This enhances your subtlety and ability for fine control offroad... easier to modulate.

cwdavis4

In my 2 week ago '03 Disco, the Harmon stereo unit I guess has decided not to recongize the CD changer. I push the CD button and it list No CD or NAV CD (when the nav cd is in the Harmon unit). I have removed the CD mag several times but nothing seems to work.

Has anyone else seen this? I'm not looking forward to going back to the dealership so soon.

doshiaa

I've read many of the messages posted on this discussion forum and others and am still confuse. I'm considering buying a '03 Discovery, and just wanted some input on what people thought of the model, durability, service, likelihood that it will last more than 100,000 miles, etc. I'm also looking at the 4Runner which isn't that attractive but seems to be durable. Any advice would be great.

deanders

No comparison doshiaa, the 2003 Toyota 4Runner has the 2003 Disco beat by miles in every possible direction. Reliability (especially!!), comfort and ride, looks, handling, conveniences, room, options, price, power, Stereo, NAV system, cargo space, gas mileage, you name it. You are comparing a vehicle that is at the absolute top of its class with one that is at the absolute bottom. Yeah the Disco is great off-road but so is the 4Runner. Read this review and then decide if you really want to own one of these sorry excuses for a vehicle:
http://www.freep.com/money/autoreviews/phelan7_20030807.htm

cwdavis4

Well I guess you could go by the Detroit Free Press (I have personally never even heard of this paper) or you could read the Forbes review.

http://www.forbes.com/2002/07/29/0729feat.html

nanuq

From personal experience: I know a guy from the LRX forum named Mike Green. He owns West Coast British and drives a '96 Discovery. Mike has a friend with a 4-Runner. At 108k miles the 4-Runner needed an overhaul, it was loose and using oil. Mike did it for him, free of charge. Then he figured he may as well rebuild his Disco as it had racked up a few miles too... nearly 250k. So he got it apart and everything inside the engine was basically within tolerances. He went ahead and rebuilt it anyway, and the last time I talked to him he had a little over 650,000 miles on his Discovery.

Give him a call... he'd love to talk to you. He's in L.A.

As for my personal experience I've got 83k miles on my '96 and it is utterly, absolutely stone reliable and tough as nails. I beat it to death offroad and it is tougher than anything else I've found.

An interesting article in the UK recently ran the results of a BBC-UK poll that voted the Land Rover the best vehicle of all time.

Best regards, -Bob

deanders

///An interesting article in the UK recently ran the results of a BBC-UK poll that voted the Land Rover the best vehicle of all time.///

You're kidding? Of course the article was from the UK, and most likely all of the respondents were factory and assembly line workers. There is just no way possible that this vehicle is even remotely, and I do mean remotely, close to the "best vehicle of all time". This is laughable. Now if you changed the category to "One of the best off-road vehicles of all time", then sure. But the totally thoughtless interior design alone puts this vehicle a long long way from any "best vehicle of all time list".

smarticus

I believe the Land Rover that the BBC poll was talking about was the Land Rover Defender (and indirectly all of the predecessors of that particular model since 1949). The Defender doesn't try to be anything other than a vehicle that can cope with everything and anything and be easily converted into most things. Probably the biggest challenge that Land Rover currently faces is how to replace this vehicle with a new model without losing the functionality and raw appeal of the old model. (Oh and it also helps that the presenter on the particular BBC motoring program concerned is a lifetime Land Rover fan who maybe "steered" the audience slightly...:>

nanuq

Here's the link:

http://www.car.net.au/carnet/reviews/article.asp?ArticleID=3410

The vehicles offered to choose from? They are:

  McLaren F1
  Ford Mustang
  Black Cab
  Rolls-Royce Silver Cloud
  Jaguar E-Type
  Land Rover
  Audi Quattro
  Fiat 500
  Citroen DS

Speaking of durability, two thirds of all Rovers sold over the last 55 years are still in use today.

Another interesting point, A Land Rover was displayed in the Louvre as a work of art. No vehicle has ever been displayed there since.