Land Rover Discovery and Discovery II

1636466686997

Comments

  • nanuqnanuq Member Posts: 765
    Very interesting... this is the first I've ever heard of any kind of recognizable pattern of ill behavior with a Rover transmission. Will you please post the problem when it's diagnosed, and the fix?

    Thanks!
  • aelucasaelucas Member Posts: 3
    I've just traded my 96 range rover 4.0 for a 2003 Disco II. I'll be towing it behind our motorhome. Finding info on this has been problematic.The owners manual suggest towing with the ignition switch in the "II" position. This would drain the battery on a long trip as well as run miles up on the odometer. My Range was towed in position "I". I was told I could leave the switch in position "O". As long as the key remains in the switch the steering column will not lock. Anybody tow their DII or have any information on switch positions?
  • stopgo1stopgo1 Member Posts: 20
    Bob, as I told you last week, LR returned my truck to me stating that they had fixed the problem after reproducing it. Their assessment was that it was due to some loose bolts where where the drive train met some parking drums. That was apparently NOT the case! Over the past few days I had felt some slight "slips" but it was hard to tell if it was the same thing, this morning it was unmistakable, it slipped hard.

    My arguement with LR at this point will be that they need to open the transmission up and find the problem, we'll see how far I get. I think they'll resist and make me wait for a complete breakdown which I think is BS considering that I've been telling them about this since I picked the truck up a year ago.

    I'll keep you updated on the situation.
  • aelucasaelucas Member Posts: 3
    I've just traded my 96 range rover 4.0 for a 2003 Disco II. I'll be towing it behind our motorhome. Finding info on this has been problematic.The owners manual suggest towing with the ignition switch in the "II" position. This would drain the battery on a long trip as well as run miles up on the odometer. My Range was towed in position "I". I was told I could leave the switch in position "O". As long as the key remains in the switch the steering column will not lock. Anybody tow their DII or have any information on switch positions?
  • discomandiscoman Member Posts: 110
    No, the P/S Fluid isn't coming from the bottom of the catch tank. Looks like it's coming from directly around the seals to the pump. It's slow enough I am not overly concerned. I did check it yesterday and the level was just below the lower mark, so I topped it off to just under the high mark. Found that the Tranny fluid wasn't even registering. Then I remembered what you had said that the transmission should feel smooth, not jumpy. So I topped it off too. Now it feels like it should. I still do want to change it, since it looks like it has never been done. Should I replace the filter too? Or is that even necessary? Please keep in mind this is my first Automatic transmission ever. I have always had and preferred manuals before. I still find myself trying to clutch and downshift :-) when coming to a stop or going around a tight corner. It's wierd when my left foot hits the floor with nothing there. Guess you get used to it after awhile. Problem is all my other cars are still manual. So now I find myself like a kid whenever I switch cars and have to get used to it again.

    Was wondering if stopgo might have a bad torque converter problem. Seems like something I had when the clutch was slipping in a manual. Don't they go bad after awhile? Or could he fix it by switching to a synthetic Transmission fluid?
  • nanuqnanuq Member Posts: 765
    Ah, you've identified a feature for your truck: when the power steering system stops leaking then you know it's empty! It's amazing the features they build into these machines! (tongue in cheek). Seriously if it's leaking that slow I wouldn't worry about it.

    I paid to have my auto trans fluid and filter changed, since on our DIs it's a "change the filter once and forget it" arrangement. Meaning, you will NEVER have to change the filter again. And it takes a hydraulic spreader to get the central frame crossmember out of there (though a scissors type floor jack will do it too). I paid the man to do the filter and put a new gasket in there, and now I just change the fluid myself. FWIW when the filter came out it looked absolutely brand new... no deposits *at all*. Be that as it may, it makes sense to do it once. If you do the filter yourself, put pieces of 2x4 against the frame rails before you jack them apart and be sure to spread a thick layer of Vaseline in the mating surfaces before you reinstall the cross member. Also be VERY careful not to damage an O2 sensor... they are expensive.

    You're right, the truck should be so smooth in its shifting that you "hear" it more than you "feel" it. Try draining / replenishing the trans fluid and see if it smooths up some. You won't get ALL the fluid, there will remain some in the torque converter. But change it 2 or 3 times and it will get the vast majority. Being silly? Maybe, but "oil is cheaper than metal".

    One trick you'll like as a manual trans driver: try running around town in '3' instead of 'D'. Keep it there until your speeds get up over 45 - 50mph. It will have much better response, and over a month or so the ECU will "learn" that pattern of behavior and your mileage really won't suffer much at all. It's better for your engine too. I often downshift to '3' and even '2' coming into corners... make sure you're slow enough when you do it.

    Enjoy your truck! -Bob
  • kimobonnkimobonn Member Posts: 8
    Hi Tincup, any information about this range rover?

    SALPV1540YA432975

    I am taking my disco in to get the oil changed, and am thinking about picking this up (I always wanted a range rover).
  • blockislandguyblockislandguy Member Posts: 336
    Nanuk,

    I didn't quite follow the "hydraulic spreader" reference. Are you saying that to change a D1 tranny filter, you need to get a hydraulic press down below to pry apart a frame rail? This is unbelievable. What do Rover dealers do when asked to change a tranny filter?

    Are the frame rails laid out the same as on the D2? (Incidentally, is the chassis itself the same between D1 and D2? Is the tranny the same?)
  • aelucasaelucas Member Posts: 3
    I've just traded my 96 range rover 4.0 for a 2003 Disco II. I'll be towing it behind our motorhome. Finding info on this has been problematic.The owners manual suggest towing with the ignition switch in the "II" position. This would drain the battery on a long trip as well as run miles up on the odometer. My Range was towed in position "I". I was told I could leave the switch in position "O". As long as the key remains in the switch the steering column will not lock. Anybody tow their DII or have any information on switch positions?
  • nanuqnanuq Member Posts: 765
    I'm not sure about the frame on the DII but, there are several crossmembers on the DI that connect the two main frame rails. This makes it exceedingly stiff against torsional twisting (you can park LF and RR tires on boulders and still open the doors). This crossmember in particular is removable and passes beneath the automatic transmission to protect it. It's held in place by some big fasteners and to R/R the auto trans filter you have to remove the crossmember then the trans pan. Yep it requires a spreader of some sort to get the frame rails apart enough to pull the crossmember out. Pretty beefy design.

    -Bob
  • disco99disco99 Member Posts: 74
    I know how much you love that truck-I've finally found one from my dealer with 59k-with 1year LR warranty---I know the 60k maintenance is coming up--the question is what's a fair price-I'm thinking 8-9k Anyone please chime in.
    thanks
  • nanuqnanuq Member Posts: 765
    Are you kidding? You could put a PRICE on something that you'll love to the ends of the earth???? (grin)

    Or when you come around to the "hate" side of the love/hate equation:

    PLEASE just TAKE this piece of British !#$%@#&^ and GET IT OUT OF MY SIGHT!!!

    Somewhere in between there is your price.

    Or for a slightly more scientific approach, you can try going to KBB.COM and run a Kelly Blue Book inquiry. Or doesn't our esteemed Edmunds host offer a similar service?

    I personally factor in how long I expect the truck to last, which calculates out how many other trucks I WON'T have to buy, and consider that as part of what I'm buying.

    My relatives here have all bought at LEAST two SUVs since I bought my Rover. Some are on their third vehicle in 6 years. All still have payments to make, and every single one of the trucks they've bought in the last year cost more than I paid for my Lady of a Certain Age. And mine still runs like new.

    Obfuscation aside, I hope that helps? -Bob
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    That service isn't offered by me or Tidester personally, but we are fond of Edmunds' TMV service and customized appraisal tools that you can find linked on our New and Used car pages.

    There's Rover news in that discussion btw, Bob.

    Steve, Host
  • discomandiscoman Member Posts: 110
    You might be able to negotiate the 60K service in with your dealer. Especially if you make it a condition of the sale. It costs them a lot less than it will cost you. And they will probably write off the labor they have to pay their mechanics as Public Relations. Either way if it's that close to the maintenance I would ask for it. It never hurts to do it a little early anyway. If they won't do it right away they can probably give you a voucher for it.

    I think the 96 is a better truck than some of the later ones. And I do agree with Bob, that it all depends how much you expect to get out of it. I plan to keep mine until it falls apart in about 20 years or more. I am thinking of giving it to my son as a High school Grad present. (He's 11 now) I think it will last as long as you are willing to maintain it. But again, it is a tinkerer's car. Not for someone who hates to get their hands dirty once in awhile. Unless you have the $$ and time to have LR do all your maintenance. So far I think I have changed out every light bulb except for the headlights. Including the one for the Auto Trans in the console. I do like the dual rear turn signals and tail lights though. Whoever designed the mud flaps needs to be shot. Especially the guy who decided to rivet them on instead of using bolts. I had to change both of my right ones out so I sawed the rivets out with a hacksaw and put bolts in.

    I was wondering if anyone out there has the plastic headlight protectors that snap on. I am debating installing an A-Bar and the protectors, or the full Brush guard. Either one with the Safari Fog lights. Thoughts...
  • blockislandguyblockislandguy Member Posts: 336
    Nanuk says that to change the auto trans filter requires using a hydraulic press or a portapower to spread the frame rails to remove a cross member. Before I dust off my OTC catalog (they make a neat 55 ton air over hydraulic press for $3300), I am thinking this just can't be true. The Rover dealer would have to charge many hours of labor at $85 ++ to spread the rails, remove the cross member, put the cross member back in, etc. etc just to change this filter. So much in fact that no one is going to pay it. If for some reason a customer insisted that the ZF filter be changed, am I unduly cynical if I think that a flat rate tech isn't going to do this?

    I hate to ask Tincup this because he has been a good friend to the board, but he is the expert. Is this frame rail spread the only way to do this? How many flat rate hours is this filter change in the Rover shop manual? Finally, is the Disco I and 2 frame the same?

    Tincup, what say you?
  • disco99disco99 Member Posts: 74
    I certainly will keep both discos for as long as I can-
    I am in the process of negotiating the 60k maintenance--
    TINCUP-If you'd be so generous with some free time-the VIN is
    SALJY1247TA182225--
    Can you see any past major mechanical issues?
    thanks to all

    By the way discoII is doing great at 61k-new thermostat and hoses before the winter.
  • kimobonnkimobonn Member Posts: 8
    Hi Tincup,

    Please disreguard my previous note about the range rover. It has already sold..

    Thx
  • tincup47tincup47 Member Posts: 1,508
    Sorry I didn't have a chance to answer on the Range Rover. I was away for a couple of days
  • tincup47tincup47 Member Posts: 1,508
    Checking your VIN, it does show a lot of visits for minor issues. Nothing major.
  • tincup47tincup47 Member Posts: 1,508
    Nanuq is correct, you do have to remove the crossmember on the DI to change the Trans filter. I don't have any info on the labor time though. The frames are not the same on the DI and DII vehicles. There were many changes in the suspension between the two vehicles along with a length change that constitute the differences. Both frames are very stiff box sections though.
  • tincup47tincup47 Member Posts: 1,508
    Glad you are enjoying your vehicle. The DI you had me check the vin on was last in to a dealer for sevice around 33,000 miles. It had the usual leaks and squeaks repaired, nothing major or out of the ordinary.
  • blockislandguyblockislandguy Member Posts: 336
    I just learned that RR dealers have a special tool to pry apart the frame rails to facilitate removing the cross member to change the trans. filter. My source was a Jiffy Lube manager who just refers potential customers to local RR dealers. This would make a nice present to Nanuk.
  • tincup47tincup47 Member Posts: 1,508
    If the local dealer is using some sort of special tool, it is not from Land Rover. There is no such tool listed in the service manual or the tool catalog.
  • discomandiscoman Member Posts: 110
    Does it show whether it was taken in for the 60K service?
  • disco99disco99 Member Posts: 74
    I was told the same thing by the salesman--This disco thing is turning into a major addiction--
    I appreciate the info--I'm going for it--
  • tincup47tincup47 Member Posts: 1,508
    The last reported mileage was 52,148. It does not show the service being performed.
  • nanuqnanuq Member Posts: 765
    ...and all manner of spooky costumes, take a look at this monstrosity! It's... STRANGE ROVER!

    image
  • disco99disco99 Member Posts: 74
    I've noticed recently that my discoII runs alot better with shell& exxon-mobil--
      However bp/amoco seem to make her run rough-with poorer gas mileage---Anyone noticed that difference?

      I've also noticed that most car dealers are using GALVES' book for trade in appraisals--From my research,they're almost 25% below most books--
    A trade in should not be a "jack" for car dealers-make sure they don't steal your car.It's very common for these guys to steal a car for 10k and then turn around and list it for sale for 17k--
      Just sharing some experiences--
  • blockislandguyblockislandguy Member Posts: 336
    Disco99, I thought "jacking" applied only to shooting deer after they've been blinded with some lights.

    Seriously, as a business person running a fairly large wholesale distribution company (I'm not a car dealer), I find nothing wrong with taking in a trade in for 10K and "listing" it for 17K.

    I can easily imagine that the direct costs (repairs, detailing,legal paperwork, advertizing expenses, warranty exposure, etc.) would easily hit 2K. Then to use your example, if he "lists" it for 17K, after a commissioned sales person unloads it for 15K, the dealer has made a 20% gross profit. Wow. That my friend is no home run. Twenty points won't keep the lights on in most companies.

    In fact even at Home Depot you would be hard pressed to find anything for less than a 30% gross profit margin.

    If an individual thinks he can get more for his trade, go for it. Some of us can, some of us can't. (Incidentally, Secretary of State Colin Powell used to buy, fix up and resell Volvos as a hobby when he was in the Army. I'll bet that even he wasn't working on just 20 points.)
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    I think Galves is pretty strong in the Northeastern US but not so common elsewhere. This article may be of interest although it focuses more on the selling price, not trade-in:

    What is the "Kelley Blue Book" Price?

    For the best price, do like Sect. Powell and sell it yourself.

    Steve, Host
  • disco99disco99 Member Posts: 74
    I have no problems with dealers making money-after all they're are business people. However I do have a problem with them fleecing their customers with their tade-ins-

    One guy told me once that the lojack my car had no value-(he was offering it for $700 in his showroom as an option).

    Another guy told me the origial warranty left on a car (15mo/15kmiles) had no value of course-
    but he was willing to sell me one for $3000--

    It's amzing how a customer's add-ons never have any value until they're ready to resell the car.I REALLY FEEL GALVES DOES A GREAT JOB FOR THE DEALERS.
  • tincup47tincup47 Member Posts: 1,508
    Just because something is already on an item does not mean it adds value unless the buyer wants it. Kind of like when I sold my last house. My house had a built in pool, which although it cost over $10,000 to install, added virtually nothing to the appraised value of the house. Lojack is the same way, it is only worth something to a person who wants it. Any dealer installed add-ons are considered to have little or no value when trading in a vehicle because of this. Any aftermarket warranty is the same way. Any factory warranty balance is taken into consideration with the mileage of the vehicle and is already factored in.
     Galves, Edmund's, Kelly Blue book are just guides. They do not necessarily represent what a vehicle's current market value is. Check with the experts in the Edmund's Smart Shopper Forum "Real World Trade in Values". It can be very enlightening.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Here's the link: Real-World Trade-In Values

    tidester, host
  • discojavadiscojava Member Posts: 1
    I just checked the 2004 Discovery on Land Rover site, seems like ACE is not offer anymore. From your real world experience, am I going to miss ACE?
  • blockislandguyblockislandguy Member Posts: 336
    Disco99, thanks for the response. After I posted, I realized I had forgotten something.

    I know of no other industry except perhaps fresh food, where as the inventory ages it declines in value. So, when the dealer took in the car for 10K (again using your figure) and put 2k into repairs, detailing, etc. he now had 12K in an asset that was declining every day in value. That to me is scary. So, part of the reason for the "gross profit" is to cover the risk on some cars that after he trades for, invests in, then he can't sell for a number of weeks as they drift down in value or, with LR, as the season changes (I'd love to have lot full of used Disco's in Boston with heavy snow forecast for the next 10 days; maybe I wouldn't want the same inventory in early April).

    In most businesses, mine included, if you make a mistake and buy too many of something or for the wrong price, in time you will be ok because hopefully prices will increase (at least that was the the lesson since WWII although not recently).
  • rowjimmyrowjimmy Member Posts: 5
    hey Tincup or Nanuk,

    just bought a 99' DII W/ 42K miles. I kinda regret not doing this research before I bought the car but I just had to drive that car home last week.

    anyway the VIN is SALTY1247XA209292 I was wondering if you could shed any light on my rovers history? and if there is anything special I should have checked when I bring it in around 50,000 miles (or if I should bring it in sooner?)

    Thanks for any help you can provide and BTW this board is probably the best resource i have found! I truly appreciate the Rover xperts here!!!!!
  • tincup47tincup47 Member Posts: 1,508
    i don't see any repairs other than leaks and squeaks and a couple of minor eletrical issues. Looks like the vehicle was taken to the dealer up to the time of trade-in.
  • nanuqnanuq Member Posts: 765
    Sounds like you done good! But don't stress about your decision and don't listen to 99% of what you hear about Rovers (except for Tincup, listen to everything he says!)

    Everyone knows someone who had one, or their cousin's neighbor's dentist's ex-wife's pool boy's daughter's pen pal once saw somebody who had one... and you know it was just the biggest POS they ever saw. Stories about Rovers are nearly always anecdotal, and if pressed it seems like nobody can ever come up with a first-hand problem. Or if there was a problem, they can't say Rover didn't bend over backward to make it right.

    My Rover was plagued with the very demons from hell the first two years I owned her. The combined efforts of my tweaking and the shop mechanics working her over (I swear they had some chicken bones down there too) excorcized the last problem the DAY AFTER my warranty expired. And since then I have had zero trouble. Literally. Except the time I bashed a snow berm too hard and knocked an ABS sensor and had to push it back into place (grin). The fine lads at Land Rover Anchorage went the distance with me, and I am forever grateful. They went WAY beyond the call of duty and still invited me to the Christmas parties!

    Lots of these horror stories are from the Bad Old Days when you had to carry tools in the boot to fix the beastie when she'd die in the dark, in the rain (it was always in the rain). But this is a new millenium and Rover (/BMW) has put literally untold millions into their quality control.

    It used to be you could peel the hide off the back of the driver's seat and see the initials and signatures of all the lads who'd built it. They used to be almost completely hand built (mine was) and that was good... and bad. Did the lads from Solihull have a big party on the weekend? And was the truck made on Monday morning? Good luck. That gave rise to "Lord Lucas, Prince of Darkness" stories and the obligatory Lord Lucas Disclaimer you had to mutter every time you said something remotely kind about your Rover.

    Seriously... a '99 DII is a very early Series II and that's a fine truck. It had tons of BMW influence and lots of drivetrain bits from the Range Rover. It had many fewer moving parts in the axles and such, and they eventually moved the electrics from Lucas to Bosch. If yours runs good and Tincup says it doesn't have anything chronically wrong with it... love it. Don't look back.

    That said, you will experience a love/hate relationship with your truck. There's no middle ground with these beasties. They speak to you at a visceral level and when they fail you, it's a personal affront. When it's repeated you get hurt feelings... leading up to a hatred for the miserable POS. Until it's fixed, then you're in love again.

    You'll also come up with a name for it. I've had 13 Hondas, 1 Jeep, 4 Fords and a Chrysler and I never named one of them. But I had named my Rover "Anuqa" within 6 months of buying her... that means "Wind" in Yup'iq eskimo.

    Cheers! (you got to learn to say that now with a jaunty wave)
  • discomandiscoman Member Posts: 110
    Nanuq or Tincup

    What is the largest size tires I can fit on my 96 Beast without having to do any mods? I am thinking something a bit wider than the 235 70/16's, but still want to keep the stock wheels and don't want to have to cut anywhere.
  • blockislandguyblockislandguy Member Posts: 336
    The German car magazines and then the English ones have had the same retouched photos of a silver 2005 Disco recently. It looks good to my eyes and the drive train sounds great. Seemingly, there might even be a 5 or 6 speed Getrag offerred. That would be awesome and would stake out the high ground of SUVs (i. e., "Look we're real off road capable, we even have a 6 speed rock crusher").

    Does anyone have any info on the drivetrain that will be imported here?
  • nanuqnanuq Member Posts: 765
    Let's see if I can copy/paste this right.

    Discovery
    ------------

    235/70-16: Stock tire size.

    205/80-16: Stock size in many other countries. same height as 235/70-16.

    255/65-16: same height as stock

    225/75-16: little taller than stock

    245/70-16: little taller and wider than the stock size. reportedly, no need for lift, just minor trimming to fit those tires.

    245/75-16: popular size for OME suspension lifted vehicles. require slight trimming on the rear wheel well fender, and may also call for adjustment on the steering bumpstops.

    215/85-16: same height as 245/75-16. but narrower. seems to be preferred for the snow and mud.

    265/70-16: about as tall as 245/75-16, but wider. will require more trimming and steering bump stops adjustments along with taller bump stops over the rear axle.

    265/75-16: almost 32" tall. Same as stock NAS D90 tires. Will require even more trimming.

    235/85-16: same height as 265/75-16 but narrower. And seems to be the most popular size with OME lift.

    255/85-16: about 33" tall...very few people have fitted this size. Lots of butchering for this one.

    285/75-16: about 33" also... but very very wide.

    Discovery Series II
    -------------------

    255/65-16: Stock tire size.

    255/70-16: Just a bit taller than stock.

    265/75-16: Taller and wider than stock, possible to fit without lift. minor rubbing. Looks real balanced with mild OME lift.

    285/75-16: even taller than 265/75-16, r requires a bit more lift than the regular OME lift. some have fitted OME751 from Discovery series I, and changed SLS sensor in the rear to achieve almost 3 inches. Gearing and shaft strenght become issues.

    255/85-16: a bit taller than 285/75-15 but narrower. Gearing and shaft strenght become issues.
  • mmargermmarger Member Posts: 1
    I am considering buying a 00 or 01 Disco II SE7 (VINs below), but have a few concerns (that I'm sure you've all heard before). Hopefully you guys can help me make this decision!

    1. I wasn't wild about getting into the back seat, we don't have kids now, but hopefully we will have to deal with car seats within the next two years. Any oppinions?

    2. Of course, we have heard the horror stories about upkeep etc., and I admittedly am not that good about keeping up cars. Am I going to have to walk on eggshells with this car- should I just go get a honda?

    Here are the Vin #s, Tincup, can you help?

    SALTW 12421A700138
    (01 w/41K)

    SALTY1243YA227414
    (00 w/27K)

    SALTY1242YA279350
    (00 w/ 37K)

    Thanks all for yor help!,
    Mandy
  • nanuqnanuq Member Posts: 765
    The DII (Disco Series II) has smaller rear door openings than the DI, so it will be harder to fit a car seat back there. Plus the DI has better crash ratings. I also prefer the outward visibility of the DI over the DII and its offroad capability. But finding a good DI will be hard, lo these many years later. One good thing, you can get rear jump seats for the beasties and kids LOVE riding back there!

    As for the eggshells, Rovers and Gelandewagens are the two most durable consumer-spec SUVs out there; I doubt you'd like driving a Unimog very much. If you do the maintenance and keep the lubes fresh you can drive either until you're sick of it. Mine is 7 years old now and still drives like new. Literally.

    Good luck with the vehicle search, and I'm rootin' for you and your hoped-for Mandy Junior / Juniorette!
  • jamiakmjamiakm Member Posts: 9
    I posted recently about a 1998 Discovery I'm very interested in buying. It appeared to be quite clean, however, after reading a great deal of the posts on this board and researching things to look for as possible red flags, I noticed what appears to be something of a rust problem around the back interior window seals.

    I noticed what seemed to be a brown/yellow, rusty, power/dust that I was able to wipe away. On the outside of the windows I noticed small cracks in the seals around the windows. When I opened the back doors I noticed what looked to be small pockets of rust that had been painted over on the top portion of the interior wheel well. The back light grills/guards as well as the front grill have rust in certain areas.

    I also noticed that there appears to be a dusty haze that can be wiped off of the car's exterior which looks like the same dust or haze I found around the interior window seals. Does this sound normal or might there be a serious rust problem with this particular vehicle.

    I am really looking forward to purchasing this Discovery and am willing to work out some possible quirks, but I don't want to get myself into a major restoration job.

    I would really appreciate some feed back on this.

    Thanx again, in advance!

    Jamia
  • discofundiscofun Member Posts: 26
    Jamia – I sold my one-owner ’96 Disco I two months ago and here is a comparison of my former baby (immaculately maintained, garaged always, and low low mileage mostly in southern latitudes) to your observations of the ’98:

    Inside seals of the rear side windows – I had that reddish/brownish “dust” there a little bit also and it definitely was not rust. I would hazard a guess it was some sort of powder residue from the actual manufacturing of the rubber seals or something that came with it. Perhaps the original powder “aged” to the brown.

    Outside seals of the rear side windows – Mine were cracking somewhat from age around the corners but I never noticed any water intrusion or rust around those windows. I did have water intrusion from the bottom left side of the rear door window and the seal was replaced under warranty and had no problems after that. In fact, the seal was replaced again a couple of years later under warranty when a corner cracked on the outside due to age/sun/previous install may have stressed that corner.

    Side rear door wheel well – The day I sold my Disco, the buyer was going over her with a fine tooth comb and he found a small rust area just beginning to form in the weld area you refer to. Open the right rear door and look at the "joint” and sure as anything there it was. I was quite shocked as I had never seen rust on my Disco before. I have noticed on my new ’03 Disco that the joint in question has been redesigned so perhaps Rover had problems there.

    Rear/front grills and lights – No problems at all there.

    Dusty haze on exterior – You should admonish the current owner for not washing her Disco appropriately ;-) Seriously, that does not sound like a problem.

    If you really have rust in the door areas, it is there to stay and will grow as it does on any auto, but as many on this board will attest to, if you get a good Disco, you will be very happy with the Rover experience.

    Noted your previous post that this one is at 125K…a bit high I would say. Don’t let your friendship with the owner stop you from negotiating the best deal if you decide to take the plunge.

    Good luck!
  • jamiakmjamiakm Member Posts: 9
    Thanks for the response about the suspected rust problem. I hope there is no real problem. I am curious as to how to treat the areas that I believe are actually rust. Can this be treated to prevent it from spreading? And if so, is the dealer the best place to have this treated?

    Also, why did you sell your 96 considering it had such low milage? And what is a fair price for this year with 125k miles? Might I be better off purchasing a later model with far less miles?

    Thanx again for your input, it is very much appreciated.

    Jamia
  • kkonekkone Member Posts: 61
    I have a 2003 Discovery. I am starting to look into replacement tires. Has anyone had any expereince with the Pirelli Scorpion S/T? I have the stock Goodyears now.
    Kevin
  • stopgo1stopgo1 Member Posts: 20
    LRNA and my local dealership are now talking to each other about my problems. Recap...shift from 3-4th causes a random shuddering, bucking, hesitation or whatever you want to call it.

    LRNA has recomended that the Air Flow Sensor be chaged out. So that's the first step they're taking. Will let you know how it goes.

    Dave
  • tincup47tincup47 Member Posts: 1,508
    I don't see anything with any of the three VIN numbers that would keep me from purchasing them.
  • nanuqnanuq Member Posts: 765
    Hmmmmmmmmmmmm. The air mass flow sensor is a VERY expensive piece and it's a ways down the list of pieces to consider changing due to certain fault codes and the diagnostic "tree".

    When I was having the valve sticking problem the codes (sporadic misfire on one cylinder bank) pointed toward a whole lot of possible problems. They went down the list, changing all the parts and seeing no results. Finally there at the bottom of the list was the air mass flow sensor. Shining like a gold plated beacon on the sheet of paper. They bit the bullet and replaced it. Their price for the part was $1000. Guess what? That wasn't the problem.

    It turned out to be a bad plate inside my aftermarket battery, falling over at times and killing the electrical system. Simple end to the saga of "another unreliable Rover".

    So if they're willing to change that sensor, then they are holding nothing back to make you happy. Keep gentle pressure on them, and expect good results.
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