Subaru Impreza Clutch questions

kevin111kevin111 Member Posts: 991
edited October 2014 in Subaru
At 100K the clutch finally gave way. Since this is my first stick shift, I can see this happening.

Question I have:
1. Does it make sense to replace it with a STi clutch, and what will this do for me? Car is stock otherwise.

2. Are the new clutches - both standard and STi lighter than the '02/'03 units? Is one heavier than the other?

Just a couple of questions. Thanks!

Car has been great otherwise (including other issues I have posted).
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Comments

  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    It will probably be pretty hard to get an STi clutch in yout WRX in that the STi is a 6-speed v. 5-speed. I believe they are different clutches.

    Personally I recommend the Exedy Performance clutch, it's still organic but is a bit heavier pedal feel and better gripping force.

    -mike
  • kevin111kevin111 Member Posts: 991
    Thank you!
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    No problemo. That's the clutch we use on the Legacy Race car, great stuff. You might also look into an exedy lightened flywheel at the same time as the trans will be apart anyway. They are also not too agressive for street use and allow a bit more HP to get to the wheels.

    -mike
  • kevin111kevin111 Member Posts: 991
    Brought the car in. The Clutch plate is gone, and the flywheel needs to be replaced (missing a tooth on the flywheel). This is my first stick shift, so probably not too surprising (probably too much coasting on the clutch and grinding).

    Having an updated Subaru Clutch package put in (I am guessing the current one for the WRX, since it also is a 5 speed). It is cheaper than the old package - $650 for parts (flywheel, plate, throttle body, spring, etc.). Does $1350 seem reasonable for the dealer to replace all this? They are dropping the Tranny which I guess is needed for the Subis.

    Just curious. Regardless I am looking forward to the lighter clutch!!!!

    Does this look reasonable? :confuse:
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Well first off, if you have an NA trans in your car, the WRX package won't work IIRC. Turbos have push IIRC and NAs have pull style clutches.

    As for the flywheel being lighter from Subaru, I don't think Subaru has a lightened flywheel. If you want drop me an e-mail or post your model and I'll look up how much the exedy package is for the parts and we can see if that's a good price.

    -mike
  • kevin111kevin111 Member Posts: 991
    It sounds like I misled you in two areas - I have an '02 WRX, not a RS/TS model, so the unit should work (I assume). Unforunately, on Edmunds, you can not specify a WRX, only an Impreza or an STi car.

    The other area is that I said the fly wheel. What I should have stated was the clutch spring.

    The dealer is already working on the car.

    I greatly appreciate your assistance and quick reply. It is people like you that make this board as great as it is!!!

    Thanks!
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Gotcha, well that's a bit expensive for just a clutch.

    Figure about $400 for the Exedy Sport Clutch Kit(upgrade from OEM)
    Another $400 or so in labor to pull the trans and resurface the flywheel.

    Should be about $800 total.

    If you throw in a lightened flywheel from exedy you are looking at an additional $400

    So $1200 with Exedy Sport Clutch Kid and Lightened Flyhweel would be right. But you did say it was a dealer so things usually cost more there.

    -mike
  • kevin111kevin111 Member Posts: 991
    They are replacing the Fly Wheel, the throttle body, the clutch spring, and about everything else associated with the clutch. The Flywheel was missing a tooth. :cry:

    If that is the case, then I can deal with the dealer charging an extra $100-$200 bucks.

    Thank you for giving me peace of mind!!!
  • 99eurocamper99eurocamper Member Posts: 5
    I have a '93 Impreza 1.8 AWD with 5 speed. 200K miles. When I depress the clutch, even slightly, it makes noise. Kind of a mild "howling" for lack of a better term. It only makes the noise when I disengage or engage the clutch. Once it's in gear and going down the road the noise subsides to almost inaudible. Could it just be a throwout bearing type situation or will it need the whole "clutch kit"?

    I just want to get it running well enough to sell the car and would rather not put a lot of money into it.

    Thanks for any help you can offer
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Sounds like a throwout bearing, however you need to take the whole trans off to do it, so might as well do the whole clutch kit at that point.

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    paisan knows a heck of a lot more than I do, but I will suggest one thing before you go through all that - bleed the hydraulic system. The fluid may be original.

    Imagine what 14 year old brake fluid looks like? Like nasty, melted milk chocolate. That's what the stuff looked like from my Miata. Not only was the fluid contaminated, but also the slave cylinder seals were shot.

    I got lucky - a slave cylinder rebuild kit and some new brake fluid did the trick. It's been OK for the past 2 years.

    First check the master cylinder. Is it holding any fluid? What does the fluid look like? Fresh brake fluid is nearly clear, with a yellowish tint. If it's brown, time to flush it out, at a minimum.

    My level was low, so I could tell I had a leak, and it turned out to be the slave cylinder.

    Check there, and if it's not that simple, follow paisan's advice.
  • mdm53mdm53 Member Posts: 3
    Hi, I'm a complete noob so forgive me if the answers are obvious. I recently purchased a 2001 Subaru Impreza L w/ 60k on it. Great little car.

    A week ago I noticed a noise that was only present only when I was in gear and moving. The noise would disapear if I pushed down a couple of inches on the clutch. The noise sounded like a "ratatatatatat" or some sort of clicking sound with was corresponded with how fast I was going, regardless of the gear I was in.

    2 days ago the noise started to show up when the car was idling in addition to the previous situation.

    This morning when I started the car it had all of the previous conditions, and the new one was a screeching/whining/"noise basketball shoes make a a court" when I started to press down on the clutch, but only when I press it down a little. Once the clutch is fully in that noise is gone, but the clicking is still there. I'm becoming afraid and I want to see this fixed. :sick:

    Whats wrong? how much does it cost? :confuse:
    Thanks in advance to any advice anyone can offer.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 17,297
    Sounds like it might be the throw-out bearing, but it seems to be worsening awfully fast for that.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 2013 Ford F250 Lariat D, 1976 Ford F250, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100
  • speedkills1133speedkills1133 Member Posts: 1
    I am having a problem with my car. I have a 07 wrx and whenever i push the gas down it revs up an extra 2000 rpms. If I don't give it gas then it revs normally. It is driving me crazy because I can't use the higher rpms of the car without that happening. I took it to the dealership but they are saying it is the clutch going out. :sick: I hope it isn't because I haven't had the car that long. I am looking at getting a new clutch kit but I am wondering about getting a new flywheel as well.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    How many miles on the car? Sounds like a classic case of bad clutch. It should be under warranty still.

    -mike
  • danb616danb616 Member Posts: 2
    I drive a 2003 Subaru Impreza WRX with a few small mods like uppipe, downpipe, ypipe, turbo catback exhaust, unichip, unfortunately I'm at about 80,000 miles and need a new clutch. I have a full warranty on everything except my clutch until 100,000 miles. I'm wondering if I should replace my clutch with a stock one,or if I should upgrade to Exedy,or ACT??? I'm looking for something that will keep my car very reliable but I would also like some added performance. Also should I upgrade to a lightweight flywheel??? PLEASE give me any information that you think would be helpful. Thanks in advance!
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Exedy with Exedy lightened flywheel, that's what I run at the track on my track car, great setup and had it on my Daily Driver as well. :)

    -mike
  • danb616danb616 Member Posts: 2
    ANY ONE HAVE ANY OTHER SUGGESTIONS??? SHOULD I GET A NEW STOCK CLUTCH FOR MORE RELIABILITY, OR ARE AFTERMARKET CLUTCHES ABOUT THE SAME AS FAR AS FOR TRANSMISSION WEAR AND OTHER POSSIBLE PROBLEMS??? AND WHATS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN EXEDY AND ACT??? :confuse:
  • 9825rs9825rs Member Posts: 2
    I have a 98' impreza RS. The clutch is sticking to the floor. It stays on the floor then comes up and slaps my foot. Also engages almost at the floor. It was low on fluid when i first felt this so i topped it off. It felt harder for about a day then went back to the sticking. As the car warms up it seems to do it less but since its been really cold, the clutch seems to slip if i really step on it.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Something close happened to my '93 Miata. The clutch pedal went soft and would drop, plus I'd lose fluid.

    There is a leak somewhere, the fluid has to be going somewhere.

    For me, it was a leaky clutch slave cylinder. Luckily an $11 slave cylinder rebuild kit solved the problem.

    Do not ignore this - you will eventually lose all clutch function, fix it!
  • mdm53mdm53 Member Posts: 3
    I believe that model has a spring for the clutch. Its very possible that the spring has broken, you can replace it with any standard spring you find at an automotive parts store as long as it feels right to you.
  • mdm53mdm53 Member Posts: 3
    Disregard the Mazda analogy. The impreza doesn't have a hydraulic system for its clutch. Its action is governed by a spring, and it probably broke. Its pretty common. You can replace it with any standard spring at an auto parts store as long as it feels right to you when you replace it and try pressing it down.
  • 9825rs9825rs Member Posts: 2
    It is a hydraulic system with a spring return on the petal. the spring is not broken. I opened the bleed valve and only bubbles come out when i pump the petal. think its the master cylinder.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I'd tend to agree.

    My '98 Forester had a recall on the Brake Master Cylinder. Call 800-SUBARU3 to see if yours was covered. You might get a new one for free.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Master and Slave Cylinders. This is very common on the 98-00 Impreza RS cars. We've replaced at least half a dozen when the person thought it was a clutch issue.

    -mike
  • abewster92abewster92 Member Posts: 3
    ok.... i just recently bought a straight drive (Stick shift) 1993 Subaru L and ever since i bought it....it idols rough... i dont know what it is and neither does my friend or my dad... :confuse: :confuse:

    i kno the clutch is burnt up :cry: , could that have anything to do with the rough idol :confuse:

    it has also been sitting in my friends yard for about 2 years so, what should i check when i am looking under the hood????? :confuse:
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 17,297
    Not that I subscribe to idol worship, but, when setting out to select an idol, it is important to ask yourself what it is you want to get out of it. In other words, it is not what you can do for your idol, but what your idol can do for you. As a symbol of faith and strength, it is important for your moral philosophy to align with what the idol symbolizes. Remember that the idol cannot provide you with what you do not already possess. The purpose of it is merely to remind you of that attribute. If your idol is rough, what does that say about the ideals to which you ascribe?

    However, reading you post again, I am starting to think you are referring to the vehicle's idle.... ;)

    The first things to check are the spark and fuel: Plugs, wires, and coil pack are likely candidates for replacement.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 2013 Ford F250 Lariat D, 1976 Ford F250, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I would do a general tune-up, given how long it's been sitting.

    I'm actually very impressed that it started after sitting for 2 years. Wow.

    I would change the oil and filter, spark plugs, spark plug wires, air filter, and fuel filter. Start with that. Then see how she runs.

    Next I would change the ignition coil (about $80), if it's still running rough.

    I would go ahead and change the transmission oil in the front (75w90 gear oil) and in the rear diff as well. I bet those are totally spent.
  • abewster92abewster92 Member Posts: 3
    thanks Ateixeria, so the clutch being gone would have nothing to do with it idling rough... and yes i kno that i spelled idle wrong in the original message i was ina hurry ;)but neway, yea it started right up the first time i started to drive it... my friend didnt kno how to drive a stick shift and he ruined the clutch on it..so i got to replace that... we are gonna check the oil, spark plugs and everything else

    also why would the speakers on the car make a crackling noise ONLY when u turn teh volume up or down???? :confuse:
    plz reply as soon as possible ;)
    thank u :)
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I had a stereo that did that and it was the stereo itself.

    Could be that or a bad ground.

    I see these $99 specials at Best Buy for installed AM/FM/CD head units, I'd just get one of those and let them worry about it.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 17,297
    Yeah, it is interference and most likely is in the head unit. I hope I did not poke too much fun your way; I had the visual of a "rough idol" in my mind and it tickled me just the right way. :D
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 2013 Ford F250 Lariat D, 1976 Ford F250, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    No problemo.

    When mine did that I tried a new fuse, then a higher amp fuse. Finally gave up and replaced the head unit and it was cured. The speakers and everything else was OK.
  • kent1kent1 Member Posts: 2
    Had my clutch replaced at 57,000 due to clutch chatter when cold and also clutch fade under load.
    Did not go to dealer, but garage who has done work for me before. Had a new factory clutch replaced, told me oem flywheel for that model and year was not available? resurfaced flywheel and clutch kit installed total $825. Price was right but now I have clutch chatter out of first and in reverse and down shifting worse then before. Was Told to drive car to break in clutch, took a few launches to help speed up break in. 10 days later not much difference. He told me to bring back but why do I still have this chatter? wondering if I should have gone to dealer?
  • kent1kent1 Member Posts: 2
    Brakes make a squeeling noise. Had pads checked and rotors. both ok. noise continues, goes away when brakes are applied. My guy put some material behind each pad to reduce possible cause for noise. Worked for a short time. Now it's back. really notice in parking garage. How to solve?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    What kind of pads are you using? If they are semi-metalics they'll be noisy no matter what. Ceramics and non-metallics are quieter.

    -mike
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Price was right but now I have clutch chatter out of first and in reverse and down shifting worse then before.

    Have you replaced the fluid?

    -mike
  • bachemicullobachemicullo Member Posts: 3
    a good shade tree mech is "looking for input" before jumping into a clutch swap.
    ? those that have done it ...will you do it again or pay someone else?
    ? is this difficult and require any special tools?
    ? how high would I have to lift the car from the floor?
    ? would i need a helper?
    -- original clutch got 105K miles - pretty happy with it, i enjoy driving hard but don't race (old age and wisdom)
    ? what's advantage in going to another clutch vs. the Subaru stock - taking into account the dealer price - ouch!
    ? recommendation on clutch kit manufacturer and distributor web address?
    ? replace or resurface the flywheel?
    ? if replace then from what manft'r and distributor?
    thanks!!!!
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Royal PITA to swap it, hard part is splitting it from the engine block. Especially at 105k miles. Should pay about $300-400 max in labor from a shop.

    I've done several, and have paid to get recent ones done.
    You'll need a clutch tool, and if you don't have air tools, you'll need them as well to break the bolts.
    I'd say you need the car at least 1'-2' off the ground, enough to get the trans out from under it, you'll also need a trans jack or 2nd jack.
    Several helpers would help
    I've used Exedy clutches as replacements, better than stock and cheaper
    I'd go for the Exedy Sport Organic Clutch kit (which includes the pilot and throwout bearing, and pressure plate)
    I replaced mine with the Exedy Lightened Flywheel, easy upgrade while you are in there.

    Hope this helps.

    -mike
  • bachemicullobachemicullo Member Posts: 3
    thanks much Mike!

    I've got air tools but i do know how difficult it is to change a clutch from a laying position vs. working under a lift. I think that i'll follow your lead and pay my local trusted mechanic ...with a lift.

    Many clutch options - is this the one that you were referring to?
    http://www.car-stuff.com/store/?N=11735+4294967264+1719+11921+9191
    Exedy Clutch Kit 2002-2005 Subaru Impreza Pull Type Clutch FJC521; FJD024; BRG601. Availability: In Stock Usually Delivers in 2 to 3 days
    FITS (ENGINE/CHASSIS)
    2002-2005 Subaru Impreza W0133-1653770 $273.95

    Flywheel is pricey at $471.95 - is this the one you were referring to?
    http://www.car-stuff.com/store/?Ne=28&N=11735+4294967264+1719+5798

    Thanks so much!
    david
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    That is the standard clutch kit. I'd go for the W0133-1597403 for the WRX Sport Organic. Gives you a bit extra bite and combined with the lightened flywheel will add a little extra umph. The $ you are saving from getting it done at a dealer would offset the higher prices for the better parts.

    I assume your car is a WRX?

    -mike
  • bachemicullobachemicullo Member Posts: 3
    Yes - WRX.
    I went to the Exedy web site and came up with the following:
    Clutch Kit - Organic (as you suggest)
    - http://www.exedyusa.com/oe/15802

    and the flywheel:
    - http://www.exedyusa.com/oe/FF01

    prices all seem to be the same regardless of distributor for a combined total of $1,020.00.
    Dealer wanted $1,596 installed which included $257 for a new flywheel. Difference of $600 should be labor for my local mechanic ... and i'd get a better clutch and flywheel.

    thanks,
    david
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Cool Cool and your local mechanic may not charge you $600 I'd be suprised if he did.

    -mike
  • merrycynicmerrycynic Member Posts: 340
    150,000 miles later and it appears that my '02 WRX might be needing a new clutch soon. While I'm at it, should I consider putting in a short throw shifter?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Even though they work together they're really completely separate jobs.

    May as well, though.
  • merrycynicmerrycynic Member Posts: 340
    Thanks for the reply, Yeah, I know they're separate issues, but one got me thinking about the other. Thanks again.
  • merrycynicmerrycynic Member Posts: 340
    Turns out I'll need a new clutch and a new radiator. While they're at it, should I consider any other upgrades? I would prefer to stick with genuine Subaru parts, either OEM, SPT or STi.
  • larryk1152larryk1152 Member Posts: 1
    I only have 45K miles on car and already need a new clutch. Dealer is pricey and indpendent mechanic says that Subaru clutches have issues not acknowledged by Subaru. He suggeststhat I get repalcement at www.fastwrx.com, but I have no clue what to get. I like speed, but do not want to affect daily driving adversely.

    Any thoughts?
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