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Comments
My personal experience with extended warranty coverage has been that right after the manufacturer's warranty coverage lapsed, something went wrong that was quite expensive to repair (the a/c evaporator that is located inside the car under the dash). That one repair recovered the entire amount that I had paid for the extended warranty. With the labor rates in the S.F. Bay Area being what they are, any repair will practically justify the cost of extended warranty coverage.
I personally like the GMPP Major Guard plan because it covers "wear-and-tear" items, which are typically excluded by other policies. Based on my personal experience, the extended warranty policy is a way to limit my exposure to repair costs that seem inevitable.
GM Major Guard. In your post you mentioned "wear and tear" items. What exactly are you saying is included under wear and tear? I'm curious cause mine says normal wear and tear items are not included such as brake pads, engine oil, air filters, weather stripping, tires, etc.
Losses from 2001 models:
No stitched Denali door inserts. Also, the coin storage on the 2003 models underwhelms me. The storage compartment in the center lid is missed. Lastly, the Michelin tires in my opinion are better than the Goodyears on the 2003.
Gains with the 2003 models:
Memory for mirrors (among other items). This item is truly neat. In conjunction with the ability to angle the mirrors down to show the curb, you can parallel park the 2003 Denali much more easily. StabiliTrak. This is a four channel system that works on all four corners. Navigation system. Confirmed gadget freaks will love it. Also, the XM radio is a nice touch - you can listen to your favorite channel for the duration of the trip, no fading of stations as you travel out of range. There is also a DVD-based entertainment system, but I did not order it, so I can not comment about the benefits of the entertainment system. There are also significantly more financial incentives available on the 2003s.
On balance, I think that the 2003s are a definite improvement over the 2001s. Although, I do wish that the Denali door inserts, coin holder and Michelin tires were retained on the 2003s.
Has anyone tried this? If so, make and model number of plugs?
Re: nodrog25 (2003 changes)- don't forget the 2nd row captain chairs option and the independent driver/px climate controls.
Steve, Host
tidester, host
Has anyone had to replace the rear brakes in their Denali yet with less that 40K miles on the vehicle. I think my rear calipers are seizing. There is a synthetic lube that can be applied to the caliper pins to allow the caliper to 'float' which I will apply this weekend, since I smell hot brakes after replacing the pads a few weeks ago.
Thanks for the help!
Steve, Host
2003 Red Denali with second row captains, nav, and dvd entertainment for $45,500 with 0% for 60 months.
Any thoughts?
You can listen to any source (Radio, XM, Rear Seat Entertainment, CD changer) while using the nav system. The Nav DVD takes the slot in the actual head unit itself. Your CDs will be in the six-CD changer in the center console.
The nav system will sound a chime followed by muting the sound system and then voice your turns. It will then bring the music back to its previous volume. You can also mute the nav voice for visual only directions.
Overall, I thought the system worked well. I was a little disappointed in the accurancy of the disc. It was missing several highways that have been in place for a few years now.
of their 6.0 ? Has gas mileage or performance
improved ?
Thank you for the reply,
hrhauser, as for your experience, I'm glad you survived nary a scratch or dent. Loose gravel can be tricky and even the most sophisticated traction system can't rewrite the laws of physics, so AWD may have made no difference in your particular situation.
Regarding the lack of traction that hrhauser was referring to, I would imagine if StabiliTrak had been turned off, the encounter with the ditch would not have occurred. The All Wheel Drive system on the Denali is quite capable of dealing with reduced traction such as occurs with loose gravel. When I had my 2001 Denali, I drove on both loose gravel and compacted soil with no problem on either surface.
Both are fine vehicles and drive fantastic. But I was surprised about the mileage I got. On a full tank, Yukon XL had burned 1/4 of the tank for about 100 mile Hwy + City driving. DXL seemed little better for the same type of driving - a little over 1/8th of the tank.
But I got the best mileage on my old Tahoe - less than 1/8th of the tank.
I realize that the size of tank has a lot to do with how far the guage moves. I am deciding whether to buy a DXL or YXL. Does any one know more realistic mileage difference between the two? It seems that YXL w/ 5.3 should do better than a 6.0L DXL, plus the weight difference in favor of YXL.
(initially my mpg was lower, but increased 1-2 mpg after about 3000 miles of breaking in)
I've left my business trip on the DIC running for the last 18k plus miles... right now it's showing an avg mph of 36.3 and an avg mpg of 15.4.
Traction control and Stability control are not the same, though there appears to be a common misconception in America that Stability control and Traction control are one and the same.
The button that disables Stabilitrak, disables the braking of axles for the purpose of maintaining directional control. It also disables the limiting on throttle opening. The braking of individual axles to divide torque is not disabled by this button. Torque distribution by braking axles only turns off if the brakes become over heated.
The GM Yukon brochure lists the following.
YXL 5.3L - city/Hwy - 14/18
DXL 6.0L - city/Hwy - 12/15
During my test drive, it sure seemed like DXL had better mileage than YXL. Strange ! I will post this on Yukon/Suburban board as well.
Steve, Host
I usually run one full tank of 93 oct. Chevron supreme every two months just to keep the fuel system clean. I did this on my last road trip and took a measurement of highway mileage to see if octane improved fuel economy. I run 38 pounds of pressure in my Michelins (does anyone think this is too high?), had the AC on the whole way, truck was lightly loaded. I got about 16.5-17.0 MPG @75-80 MPH. This is about 1 MPG better than when I run the 87 octane fuel at these speeds. At current fuel prices, the additional MPG does not offset the increased price for premium, so I'll stick with the regular grade fuel. As an aside note, at full throttle, I sometimes notice slight pinging at the top rpm range with regular grade fuel. With premium fuel I don't notice this and I have a hunch that this engine is designed to develop more power with the higher octane fuel.
OK now my question. The service guy told me I should not use 91 octane, even to clean engine. He was pretty clear I should stick to 87. Any ideas why? Thanks in advance.