Subaru Forester (up to 2005)

kpedersen1

It's costing me $850 (I was quoted
$1250 & $1500 thru another dealer for the exact same moonroof!)
It is 30inches by 16inches, is 'power' not a manual 'pop-up' type,
and has a sliding sunscreen just like the one offered in the Premium Pkg...
(just not as BIG!) In fact, it's being 'installed' as we speak!!!
Yippee! Kris in NJ

ateixeira

Congrats Helen.

Kris: sweet price. Who manufactures it? Can you get any pix?

-juice

subearu

model# and brand too if you could.

-Brian

gossamar

Very small world indeed Steve!! How long ago did you leave?? Yup, we got a 2001 S Auto plus some goodies for $500.00 over invoice pricing. Got it from the dealer in Peoria, however I WILL NOT go back to them. It has been over 2-months since getting our 'sube' and not ONE follow-up call to see how we were doing with the car....nada, zip, zilch, zero, nothing!! When filling out the owner survey, I noted this fact quite CLEARLY. So, we will be using the local dealer for all warranty work and oil changes, etc... Would have used local dealer, but thier inventory was not as good, and with the lease ending on her car we had a limited time frame in which to purchase. Peoria just happened to get the S- blue/silver first. Say, don't they have a STEAK N SHAKE up there now, in case you need some of that HOME cooking!!
Now I just need to get the car away from the wife long enough to get it back to the dealer to have brakes looked at....

bigfrank3

Here is a link to Chevron's "MOTOR GASOLINES TECHNICAL REVIEW", which has some good stuff.

http://www.chevron.com/prodserv/bulletin/motorgas/frame.html

According to them, higher octane does mean higher "heating value", but on average not enough to make a difference.

"The heating value also varies by grade and by season. On average, the heating value of premium-grade gasoline is about 0.7% higher than regular-grade because premium-grade, in general, contains more aromatic hydrocarbons -- the class of hydrocarbons with the highest densities. The heating value of winter gasoline is about 1.5% lower than summer gasoline because winter gasoline contains more volatile, less dense hydrocarbons."

They also explain about the wonderful Oxygenated gasolines some of us have to put up with. We are doomed to worse mileage.

"Oxygenated gasolines, which are required in some areas of the United States (see Chapter 4), have lower heating values because the heating values of the oxygenate components are lower than those of the hydrocarbons they displace."

This piece about vehicles with knock sensors, like our Foresters, is interesting.

"It is difficult for a driver to know whether a gasoline has the antiknock performance the engine requires when the engine is equipped with a knock sensor system. These systems, which temporarily retard spark timing to eliminate knocking, are installed on many late-model engines (see Chapter 5). Retarding the spark reduces power and acceleration. The knock sensor responds so quickly that the driver never notices the knock. Loss of power and acceleration will be the only clues that the antiknock quality of the gasoline does not meet the vehicle's octane requirement."

This suggests to me that it would be wise to experiment with slightly higher octane, to have something to compare to, and if it doesn't make a difference save the money. But, it could make a difference in different parts of the country, or world for that matter, especially since no 2 engines are exactly the same.

Regards,

Frank

ateixeira

Good find.

Another thought - you may want to reset the engine computer (easiest way is to disconnect the negative on the battery) if you change fuel. It takes up to 3 tanks for it to adjust itself.

-juice

dannyka

Have any of you found that a message just disappears into the bit-bucket? I put one up here this morning (should be #958) and now it's gone. Weird...

-Dan

ateixeira

Was there any bad language? If so, they may be deleted.

Tonight - the Subaru Crew chat! 9pm eastern, 6pm pacific. I'd love to hear impressions from all the new owners that popped in here recently, so please join in.

Follow the simple link at the top of this page. We had a whopping 14 people at one time last week - it was hard to keep up!

I'd especially like to invite anyone shopping for a Subaru to join in and ask questions. It's a great opportunity to get several responses in a short period of time.

-juice

dannyka

No bad language unless they think "GPS" stands for something I don't know about...

-Dan

bigfrank3

Eeeeeeeeeee Dannnnnnn... what yoouuuuu saidddd!! I'm telling! Dirty mouth, dirty mouth!

Seriously though, I had a message go to "electron heaven" one day. It just never showed up.

I don't know if you caught the link in my last message, but Chapter 1 has some stuff about altitude that is interesting.

Regards,
Frank

dannyka

Frank - I did catch that. Thanks for the link. (I think I even said so in my last message, you good fer nuthin' #*#*%&*$ -- jk :-)

Basically, I was noticing a couple of things:

Speedometer - I measured the Forester speedometer against my GPS (eTrex) on the freeway yesterday and the Forester registered 2mph more than the GPS (70 vs. 68). Anyone notice the same thing? Got the stock tires and wheels. Normal pressure, which leads me to...

Tire pressure - After I took the car home last Friday, I checked the tire pressure and they were set at 46psi. I bled them down to 33psi. I understand that cars are shipped with a higher pressure to help prevent flat spots, but shouldn't the dealer check that before delivery? Anyone else notice this, or is it unique to Salt Lake City? (I remember the same thing on my Nissan Pathfinder -- whole different dealer.)

-Dan

PS - Frank, forget the stuff about 'good fer nuthin' -- I'm just seeing if I get censored. ;-)

ateixeira

Yes, your dealer should have caught that at PDI. But it's a common oversight.

At 46psi, I'm surprised you didn't find the ride intolerable!

-juice

kens

Dan,

A friend of mine who owns a 98 Forester L measured a +3mph variance between his GPS and the speedo!

When I took delivery of my Forester, the tires were at 44psi. It happens ALL the time.

Ken

bigfrank3

I have bought many new cars and never once has the tire pressure been right, most were at the shipping 40+.

When I bought my Forester I thought the 20 mile ride home was a bit "squirrely". The tires were all between 41 and 44 (cold), no 2 the same. I mentioned this on my survey, and was actually thanked by the dealership, although behind my back I might have been a picky S.O.B.

They said they haden't heard that from anyone else, and they didn't want the cars going out like that (or, at least, didn't want the surveys coming back like that) so now they could fix it. They probably hung a "bigfrank" rule on the wall or something.

Anyway, when my wife bought her Forester a few months later, it came with 35 all around. Of course, they knew she was my wife, and that might be the only vehicle that ever came out that way, but I would like to think otherwise.

Regards,
Frank

dannyka

Well, maybe the speedometer "offset" will keep me out of trouble. On the other hand, since I know that it's 2mph off...

juice-I did notice the ride home was a little, how shall I say, lively? That's why I thought I better check the pressure. In fact, the PDI sheet was in the car and in bright, red letters was "Check Tire Pressure" checked off. Kinda makes a guy wonder just how much of that PDI they actually did. Oh well. Besides that, everything seems just great!

Thanks for the info, all.

-Dan

kpedersen1

Juice- I thought it was a great price
too! Can't post any pics though, as I
only have WebTv and no scanner!
Brian- Make and model #?...I actually don't know...didn't ask...DUH! To
me it really wasn't that important.
But seeing as I'm having such a
surprisingly pleasant buying experience with the wonderful Liberty Subaru here in beautful Bergen County, New Jersey.....I'll just BET
that if you e-mail the salesman whom
I've been dealing with...he'll answer you back in no time about make & model #! He tells me they have been using the same aftermarket installers for their leather upgrades and moonroofs for the past 15 years, and that everything is garanteed for the life of the vehicle. It's Dan.Cohen@LibertySubaru.com.......
By the way, for anyone who might remember my post of 3 days ago about my REMARKABLE e-mail purchasing adventure....here's an update.....
Liberty Subaru's Dan Cohen e-mailed me back (accepting my 'below invoice'
offer!) BEFORE I even FINISHED sending out the 6 e-mails I had planned!!
Yet, to this date, I've never even heard a WORD from 4 of the 6 dealers I contacted!!....and the one

$400 over invoice and that I should drop in sometime and take a test drive, etc! ("NOT"!!!) It's Liberty
Subaru for me!! I think anyone in the NY, NJ, CT, PA area (or even NOT in the area!) who is looking at getting a Subaru would be pleasantly surprised with their prices and attitude! Just IMHO! Thanks for listening! Kris in NJ

grahampeters

G'day
When I lived in England, the residents of Scunthorpe (think of anywhere unpleasant in New Jersey for a feel for the place) became distressed because the net censors spotted an obscenity in their place name. It wiped them from the map, much to the joy of many Brits.

Wonder if this obscenity checker does it too.

Cheers

Graham

leomort

ok, I was looking at the Foresters. Very nice. Starting crunching numbers. Hung out in the Smart Shopper section talking to the various salsemen there. One advised that you should take a car payment out for no more than 3 years. How long of loan do you typically take out on your cars? For your information, my typical philosophy was: minimun of 20% downpay on price of car, payments no longer than 4 years, and payment not to equal more than 20% of net monthly pay. With my formula, I'd be able to buy a new Forester, more than likely only the L trim. If I follow the one car salesman advice, I'd have to go used but could have a chance of buying the S trim. Opinions/adice on the financial scheme and the which route to go?

Leo

armac13

Why tie yourself into any artificial payment formula? Only you can determine what payment is comfortable for you. I would be inclined to go with a new Forester (I did) since they hold their value so well and the 2001 has some nice additions, and go for the S (I did) since I think that the added value is tremendous for the additional price. But then I'm biased!

Ross

suvshopper4

Re post #971

I wouldn't worry about being able to pay off a car in only 3 years. Sure, be concerned that you don't string out the repayment term longer than you have to, paying more interest than you have to.

But the 3 year repayment model dates back to when many cars started to experience problems after about that time. Cars are MUCH better today, and you can expect much longer reliability out of a quality brand like Subaru.

I agree with putting 20% down if you can swing it. As for the 20% of net monthly pay as a payment cap, I think it really depends on your situation. Presumably you know your budget and finances well enough to know what would work.

Don't forget to shop for the best loan rate. And a home equity loan, if that applies to you, is tax-deductible, which effectively lowers the interest rate you pay.

Good luck.

ejp

ateixeira

Dan: I wouldn't assume your speedo is the one that is inaccurate, it could be the GPS. I mean, just how far away are those satellites?

Leo: that's all a matter of what you are comfortable with. I usually suggest getting a loan no longer than the powertrain warranty, so you are not paying for costly repairs and making payments at the same time. That's 5 years for Subaru.

But I believe there are low finance rates. Depending on how low, you may be better off investing your money (if you have the discipline to do that).

So, 5 years, low rate. S Premium, perhaps?

-juice

rlhermes

Greetings!
I usually lurk around the Camry discussions, but I have spent much time at this site since buying a new Forester last December. Many thanks for all the valuable information that has been posted by the Crew' and others. Hopefully, I will be able to contribute something in the future.

Before leaving, I have a few questions about past topics:

Gear box whine - noticeable in 1,2,3 when accelerating. Is this normal? Should I change to synthetic gear lube?

Best place to order the 18mm sway bar upgrade kit? Is this the Impreza upgrade ? Does anybody know the part number?

Recommendations for Washington D.C service locations (dealers)with Metro nearby. I live in Gaithersburg, and have noted that a few of you live in the area.

Thanks in advance for any info.

-Rick

ateixeira

For the sway bar you need Part# 20450FA020
and two bushings Part # 2104726A671. Wholesale is about $78, but a dealer will mark it up a bit. The place I got it from is closed.

I do my own service. My dad and cousin go to Fitzgerald's. They are OK for regular folks, but they are not mod-friendly, at least that's what I've heard.

You can try a fluid change, but I'd let the dealer look at it since it's under warranty.

-juice

john1250

This is from Car and Driver Online, no word on when the 2002's will be available. Prices are the same as 2001.

March 30, 2001

Subaru says the manufacturer's suggested retail price (MSRP) of the 2002 model year Forester line has been retained from 2001 despite the addition of new standard equipment.
Forester models L, S, and S with Premium Package all receive a cargo area cover, daytime
running lights, and a dual-mode rear window wiper (single speed and fixed intermittent) with
washer. Forester S body cladding has been changed from Titanium Pearl to Graystone
Metallic, for the 2002 model year. Forester S models will continue to be available with a
Premium Package, which includes: power moonroof, front seat side-impact airbags,
monotone paint, and gold-accented alloy wheels.

Subaru says there's also a new S model with a Premium Package that includes
factory-installed leather-trimmed upholstery, available on automatic transmission models
only. The leather-trimmed upholstery upgrade adds $700 to the MSRP.

2002 Subaru Forester Manufacturer's Suggested Retail Prices

Forester L
Manual Transmission (2.5L) AWD
$20,295
Forester L
Automatic Transmission (2.5L) AWD
$21,095
Forester S
Manual Transmission (2.5L) AWD
$22,895
Forester S
Automatic Transmission (2.5L) AWD
$23,695
Forester S with Premium
Package
Manual Transmission (2.5L) AWD

$23,895
Forester S with Premium
Package
Automatic Transmission (2.5L) AWD

$24,695
Forester S with Premium
Package and
Leather-Trimmed
Upholstery
Automatic Transmission (2.5L) AWD

$25,395

The destination and delivery fee is $525 on all models except in Alaska ($685).

Next news item

herbp

Thanks for previous remarks about TP. I purchased a new 2001 L in mid-March and found a bumpy ride after driving a couple of hundred miles. Checked TP with a new digital pressure gauge and found 44 psi in the Bridgestones. Side of tire stated 44 psi = maximum. Placard in left door frame gave data of front=29 and rear=28 for a light load. Bled tires to correct. It made for a better ride. My first Soobie, also. Herb in Tacoma, WA

stever

Sometimes the "server will reset" while you are composing a message and it will appear to be posted to you, but when you log in later it's not there. Actually that's not the "real" problem but it's something like that. It's happening less and less as our bug fixes get rolled in.

We always try to notify members if their posts are deleted for profanity, soliciting, etc.

Steady Graham :-)

Steve
Host
Vans, SUVs and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards

schragem

Hey, Juice and Ken, thanks again for the info. re: camping. I tried this morning, finally, to put the front seats fwd, recline the seats w/o headrests, and put the back seats down, and I was wondering if you guys were implying that the front seat area is usable space? It's slanted pretty steeply, as you know, but I'm thinking you could put some stuff in the front seat to build a flat cushioned area up there for a huge sleeping area. Let me know if I'm doing something wrong in the seat procedure, or if you have any other thoughts on this topic...Matt

kens

Nope, I think you did it correctly. The front seats will not form a flat surface. Unfortunately, the Forester front seats don't have a feature to raise the seat cushion high enough to create a near-flat surface. They will provide you room to stretch out your legs, however.

Ken

puntila

We have a 99 Forester S with 54K on the odometer (bought new). For at least the last year, the car has sounded very bad from a cold start, even in summer -- almost like a diesel truck. Two dealers say that this is "normal" for Subarus...no car I've ever had sounded like this cold! The problem seems to be getting worse (i.e., takes longer to go away). Anyone else experience this? Anyone else get it fixed? Input appreciated!

hmuller850

My 2000 Forester L 5m is perfect for me. I have a second home on a dirt road in the Catskill Mountains of New York. It handles off road quite nicely. Also I average about 22-23 in the city and 26-27 and as high as 28 on the highway. It has all the pep you could ever want in a car. The visibility is great much unlike my wife's Chrysler Sebring convertible. The car just passed its first birthday. I have 16K trouble free miles on it. I about cried when somebody dinked my side window frame. It just seems like I'm seeing more and more Foresters in my area of North Jersey lately. The rear seat room is limited but it is just my wife and myself most of the time since the kids are both married and out. The drink cups holders are a little awkward and the radio knobs are hard to find in the dark. (Imagine if I had nothing to complain about!) Bought my Forester from Becker Subaru in Allentown, PA at invoice price. Great dealer, super coureous delivery. Can't comment on service since I haven't needed any!

dannyka

Here's something I've never run into before with manual trannies. I thought that since I wasn't used to the Forester 5-speed that maybe I just needed some time with it. It turns out that there's a "shudder" or "chatter" in the clutch if I let it out at around 750 (idle) to 1200 or so RPM. I finally decided it wasn't me when I tried backing out of the garage (slight downhill), and also starting on level ground and it still did it. I didn't remember this with three other manual cars so I took it to the dealer. The mechanic that came along with me on the ride says that almost all 5-spd Foresters exhibit this clutch "chatter", but that I should log it with the service reps and if it gets any worse, to bring it back in. If I blip the throttle to 1300+, it's not a problem and I can avoid the problem all day if I do that.

Well, what do you guys think? Do any of you have that same "problem"? Or is it just my memory failing me and I'm just lugging the engine? Perhaps the Forester's just geared differently? It seems that if I have to rev it to 1500-2000 just to pull slowly into the garage, I'm gonna wear that clutch out sooner than later.

-Dan

PS - Thanks for the info on the sway bar, juice. I was just gonna ask for it :-)

ateixeira

For 2002 there is no price increase, which is sweet. Freight is up $30, but if you account for inflation and added equipment the Forester's price has dropped slightly every year since its inception.

Gene: yours may have a bad ECU or injector. Certainly doesn't sound "normal" to me. If the dealer is not responsive try another, or call the 800 number to complain.

Dan: seems like 1500rpm isn't that much. It's not making much torque at those revs, and you'll never stall. Just ask the dealer to register the complaint, just in case any problems creep up in the future.

-juice

kens

Dan,

I'd certainly take the mechanic's advice and log your complaint in. Between 98-00 some people did experience quite a bit of chatter due to a weak pressure plate design. However, based on my conversation with a Subaru Service Manager, the recent Foresters should have this worked out. He did mention that even with the latest revision, a small amount of chatter does occur when starting out in the morning.

Ken

mrbill808

Can anyone tell me the pros and cons of upgrading from 15" tires and rims to 16"

What should I expect in terms of gas mileage also?

teresamc1

My sister is moving here to Dallas from Sydney, Aus. middle of this month and asked me to look into a used Subaru Forester for her. Can someone advise me on what is a reasonable price to pay for a 2 yr old Forester (Automatic, 4wd) with 10-30K miles?

Thanks, I appreciate any info..

sport33

I imagine bigger, heavier tires require more power to get off the mark, and are not as fuel efficient as smaller tires. An increase in rotational mass causes a certain loss of accelerating capability. They are more expensive to replace, and are a tad more difficult to balance. You will also most likely need to recalibrate your speedometer.

You have more ground clearance with 16"ers, and perhaps better handling, depending on the width and profile of the new tire/rim combination. And let us not forget that bigger tires evoke a certain amount of "coolness".

I kept the 15" tires on my 2001 Forester L. I bought the car for its value, economy, and ride. The 2.5L motor paired with the 5 speed manual tranny is absolutely superb... quick, and so much fun! I don't see a need to change a thing.

p0926

Teresa- You can check Edmund's and KBB's used car sties for an idea on pricing. However, your sister should consider buying a new Forester since the price differential between a two-year old Forester and a new one isn't that great (figure $16-17k for used vs $20k for a new 2001 L). Also, there aren't that many used Forester's for sale so finding one might be difficult.

-Frank P.

p0926

Dan- If you're trying to engage the clutch at 750-1000rpm from a dead stop, I'd fully expect not only the clutch to chatter but the engine to buck as well. I don't think that you're doing either the clutch or the engine any favors by engaging at that low rpm.

Bill- I'm sure Juice will weigh-in on the differences between 15" & 16" tires since he upgraded his. However, it is possible to upgrade to 16" wheels and still maintain the same approx revolutions per mile (so your speedo will still be accurate). Your mpg will probably drop a fraction since the 16" tires will no doubt be wider and therefore will create greater rolling resistance. The main advantage to switching to 16" tires is that your handling will improve because of the narrower sidewalls and wider tread on the tires. A good site to compare different tire sizes is:

http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

-Frank P.

ateixeira

Bill: I've had both, funny enough.

The 15" wheels come with tall sidewall tires, which flex a lot. That produces a slightly bouncy ride, and less than ideal cornering. Wet braking with the Desert Deulers was awful. Dry handling only OK. In the snow, it was great. The tread was more narrow and they really took a bite in the white stuff.

I did a Plus One to 16" wheels, not stock size but pretty close. Both my wheels and tires are slightly wider than the Forester S'.

With the 16" wheels, my dry handling improved noticeably. Far better lateral grip. Wet braking also is much better. It's also quieter on the highway - an unexpected bonus, but this may be the tires I chose (Nitto NT460). The catch? Lousy snow traction.

The Forester S comes with Geolanders that are a lot different than my tires, so I'll let someone else chime in.

I respectfully disagree with post #988. The tires with the 16" wheels are lower profile, so the total diameter is actually marginally smaller with the 16" rims on the Forester S.

Also, the 16" rims are light alloys, while the 15" rims are heavier steel (15" alloys are optional, but they are rare). I weighed both of mine (15" steel and 16" alloy) with tires, and they were identical (43 lbs), so unsprung weight was not affected.

I went with 225/60 instead of 215/60, so I gained ground clearance and taller gearing, but it's still not significant enough to require speedo recalibration (I've measured speed when following a Legacy GT and it was still accurate).

Teresa: 98s go for about $15-16k, 99s for $17-18k or so. That's not much cheaper than new ones, since they don't depreciate much. Fitzgerald has brand new Forester Ls for $19k. If you can find a similar deal, I'd really suggest buying new.

-juice

leomort

if you don't mind me asking, how much did it cost you to upgrade to the 16" alloy wheels and tires?

Leo

dannyka

Thanks, all, for the input. I logged this with the service department and the mechanic did say to come back in if it were to get any worse. I'll definitely keep the revs up to avoid the "chatter".

-Dan

ateixeira

Leo: not at all.

I found a special at DiscountTireDirect.com on MB Motoring MB6 16"x7" rims for $75 a pop. They are wider than the Forester S' rims (which are 6.5"), and have a different offset, so you can go with slightly wider tires.

By the time I added new tires (which I needed anyway), shipping, lug nuts, wheel locks, it was $643 delivered to my doorstep. I just bolted them on. I'd say it's actually easier and quicker (for me) than going to a tire shop and waiting for them to mount new tires.

Tires would have cost me half that anyway, and I would have to pay someone to mount them on the old steelies and have them balanced. Finally, I sold my steel wheels to a buddy for use with snow tires, so my net cost was around $200. Totally, without any question, worth it.

If you decide to sell your steel rims, drop my an e-mail and I'll help you find a buyer - it won't take long.

There are photos of my wheel/tire swap here:

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1400062&a=12183854&f=0

-juice

leomort

for the info, juice!

Leo

leomort

another question for you. What made you decide to go for the L trim instead of S trim?

regarding used Foresters, I think you'd be able to get two year Forester in S trim for around 19 grand. that would be decent savings vs new Forester S. I found a two year old Forester S for $18,995 w/ 20,000 someting miles.

didn't you say you can get Subaru's for around invoice?

Leo

ateixeira

My price limit, mainly. I was dead-set on paying less than $20k, and my Forester L came in at about $19,400 with freight.

The newer S models added the rear LSD and a bunch of other features (in addition to what the L has). Not to mention I'd be willing to bust the budget for that moonroof on the Premiums.

I ended up customizing mine to the way I like it - including a moonroof and the 16" alloys. Today, I'd just get the S and save myself the time and the trouble.

-juice

leomort

Hmm, I'm in a similiar situation. Don't want to spend over 20 grand so was looking at the L model but the more and more I look at the S model the more I like it. The two main feature that sell me on the S model is the all wheel disc brakes and the rear LSD. The other features are nice but I could live without. Although those larger alloy wheels are beginning to grow on me. I'm bad because I'm letting my emotions stir me on this vehicle. I'm going to try and delude myself into hoping beyond hope that the 2002 Forester will be discounted w/ special financing when the revised 2003 model comes out.

Leo

suvshopper4

leomort #998
A lot of us get emotional about our cars.

Go for it. Get what you really like (if you can afford it). Life is short.

ejp

p0926

Leo- There are a number of Subaru dealerships that will sell at or near invoice. There are even a few that will sell for less than invoice.

( http://www.fitzgeraldautomall.com is one)

That means you can but a new 2001 Forester I for less than $22k. That's a pretty good deal in my book.

-Frank P.

ateixeira

Nothing wrong with being emotional. You should buy the one you love, otherwise you'll have regret each time you make your monthly payment.

Let's break down the advantages of each model:

L: low price, still has a pretty good level of equipment, good resale if you want to trade up for a 2003 turbo model later, scratch resistant cladding.

S: still a good value, most features content in the mini-SUV class by far, good safety and reliability scores make it a long-term keeper, long warranty to support that.

I see the L as a good short-term choice, if you think you'll get the itch to upgrade. Choose the S (Premium if you can wing it) as a long-term keeper and you won't regret it.

-juice

lark6

Umm, er, juice, I'm having a really hard time battling WRX wagon envy these days. Right now I see these factors in favor of keeping the Forester, though:

1. Uses regular unleaded
2. Teething problems out of the way
3. Not subject to dealer hype, markup and lack of dealing (would I be able to get a WRX for the same $200 over invoice I got the Forester? Not for a long time, if ever)
4. Not subject to tire-kicking test drives by PlayStation 2 junkies
5. Yes, I actually can and do take advantage of the higher ground clearance
6. All-weather package handy even in balmy eastern Pennsylvania
7. I would have a hard time treating a WRX the same way I do the Forester (reeking of TurfBuilder as we speak) but that's not to say I'd abuse a WRX in its own way

I am still getting the itch to upgrade wheels/tires, intake and exhaust. Must resist...

Ed