Subaru Forester (up to 2005)

lark6

My '79 Honda Accord had a 2-speed "Hondamatic" which had to be shifted manually between 1st and 2nd. Woefully inadequate for the north Georgia mountains where I lived and went to school at the time, but it was a stopgap car between my '66 Mustang and '86 Jetta. Did I mention that it burned a quart of oil for every two tankfuls of gas?

Ed

speterson1

Thanks for the feedback Frank. I'll mention it when I take it in for its 7500 mile checkup and be sure to post if it is a potential hazard or something that needed fixing.

Steve

kens

Ed,

Are you thinking of auto-xing your Forester? Let me know how that goes! I wonder which class the Forester goes in.

Ken

paisan

The forester will fall into H-stock. H-stock is where all subarus other than WRX, RS, and SVX go starting in 2002.

WRX = D Stock
RS, SVX = G Stock
All other subies = H Stock

-mike

lark6

mike: ooh, I like that challenge!

Seriously, I would like to not only learn to be a better driver, but to be a better driver in my own car. My offroading skills aren't too bad (learning to drive in rural SC will do that), just a little rusty - Pine Barrens run will help. I'd like to find a performance driving school that will let me use my own vehicle, then possibly try a just for fun auto-x and/or rally-x in the next year or so. The sheer novelty and shock value of seeing someone running a Forester would be worth it.

I have had the Forester long enough to know I'm not trading it in anytime soon (weak paint and developing rattles notwithstanding) and that it probably suits my needs better than anything else in the current Subaru lineup. So I expect to be making a few more mods to it in the future, starting with better tires (maybe a plus one wheel/tire combo) and, hopefully, exhaust. Maybe a cosmetic mod or two but nothing blatant - definitely not raising or lowering it nor tacking on any "aero kits" to lessen ground clearance.

Stay tuned...

Ed

paisan

Auto-x is a lot of fun. You get to run your car past the limit without worrying about hitting anything or cops. It has helped me to become a safer fast driver on the street since I know how my car will act on the street from Auto-xing it. Just do it!

-mike

crashdavisfm

Hey guys,

I'm leaving tomorrow on my first road trip with the Stubby. 715 miles to Brandon, MS from Tampa. My question is regarding tire pressure. The manual gives a recommendation for "light load" vs "full load". What would a full load be? I'll have a Thule car topper (box) loaded, which will be about 150lbs, me and my 50 lb dog, along with another 100lbs or so of stuff in the cargo area. Is that a "full load" or a "light load"?

thanks in advance, you guys are the best!

aj

ari

Frank: No pictures yet. I will soon.

crashdavis: I didn't worry about tire pressure. I had my cargo area filled with crates, luggage, books, and such and never had any problems.

crashdavisfm

Hey guys,

I'm leaving tomorrow on my first road trip with the Stubby. 715 miles to Brandon, MS from Tampa. My question is regarding tire pressure. The manual gives a recommendation for "light load" vs "full load". What would a full load be? I'll have a Thule car topper (box) loaded, which will be about 150lbs, me and my 50 lb dog, along with another 100lbs or so of stuff in the cargo area. Is that a "full load" or a "light load"?

thanks in advance, you guys are the best!

aj

paisan

On a trip I'd probably put the TP @ about 3-5psi below the max PSI on the sidewall. It will give you better milage, and handling for the highways. And less chance of a Ford Exploder Effect.

-mike

nygreg

My guess would be a full load, although others here are better informed on weight loads than me. I tend to run my tires with higher pressures anyway. Right now (using my brand new digital pressure gauge - $8.99 on sale at Sears) I have 32.5 PSI in them. I have an OB.

Greg

rochcom

Manufacturer recommended pressure for the Forester (S at least) is the same in front regardless of load, 29 psi. The rear goes from 26 psi (light) to 36 (full). I keep them at 33 psi all around on my '98 S, all of the time and find that it handles well and acccepts most loads. For a heavy load in the back, go to the 36 pound recommendation to keep the tail from dragging. If the pressure is too high, it is easier to damage the tires and rims on what the tire manufacturers call "road hazards."

paisan

due to over-pressure. However I've seen a lot of blowouts due to under-pressure.

-mike

wcwilliams

Hello Forester Fans and Wizards,
Last week I asked about auto trans. vs. manual on Forester, and I'm happy to report that I decided on AT. It felt right and I'm happy to take a vacation from shifting. Of course, if I own the car 20 years, it will be a long vacation, but by then I'll be too old to care.
Next question: How good is the factory undercoating/rustproofing on the subaru forester? The dealer is trying to sell me a $450 package from AutoArmor for further undercoating and rustproofing, with a 9 year warranty. I live in the midwest (Iowa), but keep the car in a car and am fairly meticulous about keeping it clean, but sometimes the salt residue stays on the car for weeks when temps are so cold you can't wash the car. So--any advice about how well the factory prep holds up? I do intend to keep the car a long time, so I'm less concerned about resale value and than I am about just maintaining body in good condition.
Many thanks! I'm really enjoying reading this board and feel like I'm learning lots of good info. about the car.

tincup47

Aftermarket rustproofing/undercoating is a waste of money. It is sold by dealerships because it is high profit and a way to increase the gross on a deal. This also applies to "paint sealers" along with other "protection" treatments. New cars today come with special galvanic treatments that are far superior to coating your car with tar. I also live in an area that is liberal with salt, and I can't remember the last time I've seen a 90's era car with rust holes like I did in the 70's and early 80's. I work for a manufacturer and don't know of any that endorses any sprayed on coating.

p0926

Not only that but an incorrectly applied aftermarket coating may actually do harm by trapping moisture between it and the body thus increasing the likelihood of rust.

-Frank P.

rochcom

Paisan: I agree about the underinflation. A lot of Ford Explorer owners found that out, and unfortunately, some of them are not here to tell about it.

I agree that aftermarket rustproofing is ineffective and possibly harmful. Another reason to avoid it: The warranty is usually worthless. It often protects only against rust-THROUGH, not surface rust, and imposes on the owner some onerous maintenance requirements, such as renwing the coating, that may be more costly than repairing the rust holes, should they ever occur.

nygreg

Go to the CUs yearly magazine on autos. There is a bar graph showing the improvements to the various components in cars over the past 3 decades. There is one bar label rust and it shows dramatic improvements in rust performance from the manufacturers. In short, I agree with others here that added rustproofing is a waste of money and possibly harmful. Just keep it clean.

Greg

skirts

Wow - what a treat!!! I just brought home the Subaru on Labor Day, and I am greatly impressed. This is my first foreign auto, and I am amazed at the greater attention to detail. I also considered the Legacy L wagon. It drove a bit smoother, is roomier and quieter, but I went with the Forester for better visibility, smaller wheelbase, etc.
Thanks to my sales person Eric Peterson at White Bear Subaru in the Minneapolis/St. Paul area the purchasing experience was much more pleasant than I've experienced before. Eric is very knowledgeable, pleasant, and deals very honestly. However, did a nice guy like that end up selling cars you ask?
I really like this forum --- but it sure is addictive.
skk

p0926

Congratulations Sharon and welcome to the club! You chose a great color (but then I'm biased).
Hopefully you already have two dogs, a Mac, a relative named Dave and employment as an engineer (Subaru demographics/insider joke).

-Frank P.

P.S. What a great and perfectly appropriate handle you have! (skirts).

P.P.S. It's time to update your profile. :-)

armac13

Congratulations and welcome aboard. I hope you enjoy your Forester as much as I've enjoyed mine. Don't worry too much, Town Hall is a relatively benign addiction. :~)

Ross

p0926

That's good to know Ross. I can now tell my wife that a certified mental health professional said so. She's been worrying that I've fallen in with a bunch of psychos. Okay well maybe there are a few but by and large most of us are at least quasi normal :-)

-Frank P.

armac13

:~)

Ross

nygreg

that I don't have to "chat" late at night in the dark?? Uh, oh time for my treatment. ;-)

Sharon - congratulations and welcome. Stay around and tell us how you like driving you new Subie.

Greg

cirque

Very basic question! I have a new Forester L'01 that's about a year old now. The mileage is still low, so when I take it in for oil changes it's usually at the 4 month mark vs. every 3,000 miles. The dealer has told me I could save some money and bring it in every 6 months if I'm not putting a lot of miles on the car. I thought the rule of thumb is 3 months or 3,000 miles. Thanks.

joseph50

Personally, I am of the school that there is nothing better one can do for the engine than give it fresh oil. The prime factor is not miles or calendar days between changes, but running time between changes. (Boat and plane engines are monitored by running time, not distance - the best way to oversee a check-up schedule.) If my 3000 miles is registered in a way that includes a lot of time in stop and go traffic going essentially going nowhere, I tend to act on the 3 month, 3000 mile option - or sooner!
Joe

p0926

Then there's the other school that holds to the opinion that today's engines and motor oils are engineered so that the manufacturer's recommended interval (usually 6 mo/7500 mi) is perfectly sufficient and that anything more frequent provides no measurable benefit (unless you're a delivery driver in NYC). However, if changing the oil every 3 months gives you added peace of mind, go right ahead and change it. At 20 some dollars a pop, it's relatively cheap insurance.

-Frank P.

kpedersen1

Only have a few minutes and wonder if anyone can answer my questions.Who manufactures Blizzak tires?Should one get 16 inch light truck tires or 16 inch passenger car tires for a Forrester S, if one wanted to save some money, that is.)I want to get a good set of 'snows'for'this coming winter. Any other suggestions? Thanks!Kris in NJ

p0926

Bridgestone makes the Blizzaks. A quick check of TireRack.com shows that the Blizzak WS-50 will fit on your current rims. They're listed at $86 each. There are however several other options listed for you to choose from. Oh and you definitely want a passenger car tire for your Forester.

-Frank P.

cirque

Thanks for input! --C.

58vw

On review of some messages, it appears that this vehicle is about problem-free.

Any reservations whatever from anyone about buying one?

I will need a good vehicle for winter/blizzard/mountain pass driving.

Peace

58Vw

kens

Oil change intervals should depend on your driving needs as well as how dirty the oil appears on your period checks. Lots of short distance driving usually calls for shorter oil change intervals. Since oil changes aren't that expensive (especially if you do them yourself), it's better the err on the conservative side and do them more frequently.

You'll find more passenger car tires to fit the Forester than light truck tires, especially with the 16" rims on the S. I believe the only light truck tire that will fit the S are the Geolandars.

You may want to look into the different type of snow tires as well. Some are designed for ice vs. snow. Others are designed for light winter conditions.

Ken

armac13

An old hippy doctor? Sounds like you'd fit right in to the Subaru crowd. Do you have a dog named Dave? :~) I have no reservations recommending a Forester based upon my experience. If you are serious about the mountain pass thing you might want to consider the WRX wagon simply because it has a turbo (no loss of power at altitude). The MT Forester has a 50/50 power split, great for carving mountains down to size, has good snow clearance and is a very safe compact wagon. Early editions often had clutch problems but this seems to be a thing of the past. Could be a real winner for you.

Ross

paisan

Depending on what part of NJ you live in, I'd think they are overkill. I live in NYC and worked throughout NJ over the years, and only the Northwest area of the state would Blizzaks actually be usefull for the amount of snow we get. Blizzaks will wear down quickly in non-snow environment. Just a thought.

-mike

nygreg

Sounds like synthetic oil would be good in this situation. Using something like Mobil 1 or Castrol Syntec would be great for short trips in stop and go traffic.

Greg

drew_

Here's some of what you missed at the BMW comparison drive. Click on the "slippery surface" link. More to come soon! The clip will really show you how AWD really wins, especially with stability control; these are full throttle starts on the wet surface simulating ice/snow.The A4 did was not equipped with the ESP option. The Acura 3.2TL Type-S (unfortunately I didn't get a clip of that) even with stability control/traction control spun its front tires and understeered horribly. The Lexus IS300 has traction control but no stability control.


http://uk.y42.briefcase.yahoo.com/bc/aling_1/lst?&.dir=/BMWCCBC+videos&.src=bc&.view=l

Enjoy!

Drew
Host
Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards

junebuggs

Anyone else experiencing transmission clunking in their 2001 Forester (automatic tranny)? It just started about 1 week ago. If I accelerate 'briskly,' 1st there is a sluggish delay, then I hear an audible 'click' when it changes from 2nd to 3rd gear (at least I think those are the gears...). If I reverse down an incline, then put the car into drive, I hear and feel a nasty clunk from the tranny. Doesn't sound good for a car with 22,000 miles! Any others out there having similar probs.? Yes, I will be taking it in for a look-see by the Subaru pros.

fisherman8

Can anybody tell me a fair price in the mid-Atlantic area? Two dealers started at 24000.This is with no extras

gpeter1

I just purchased a 1998 Forrester L. The rims are beginning to rust. Has anyone else had this problem? Has anyone attempted to get Suburu to replace under either general or extended warranty?

maverick1017

The rust is because the paint has been either rubbed or chipped off due to normal wear and tear. So its not under warranty, I asked Subaru already. I have a 98L also, and I have noticed my wheels are starting to have rust spots. I just got some silver touch up paint and slapped it on, after removing the rust of course. Its okay, anymore rust and I would have them sand blasted and repainted. Its cheap or even free if you know some one with access to a sand blaster. Then you can paint the wheels any color you like.

Mike

asplundh

I purchased the heavy gauge rubber mats from Subaru for my 2002 L. I'm a little disappointed. The front right passenger mat is not really a very good fit. I would think that a mat that was intended for a particular model would have been better. I was also led to believe that the mats had deep sides that would hold an amount of water. The deep grooves are nice but I've seen much better. I also thought the back mats were one piece that also protected the hump in the floor.

Also I have been contemplating getting the rim protectors put on. Does anyone have any comments about these.

Thanks,

ateixeira

Wax those wheels for protection. Mine look great, no brake dust sticks to them, and they're easier to clean. Plus, ice is less likely to stick to them in winter.

Daniel: Dusty is a perfect name. Mine is called Sandy, and the link below explains why!

Someone was asking about a Forester on the beach, and that's where mine just spent a day. We were just south of Salvo, and had a great time. I aired down to 18 psi and got all over the place without a hitch. Check out the photos here.

Last year, as some of you may know, I drove all over Rodanthe, to Pea Island and Waves. The AWD works great, just drive smoothly and carefully.

The surf fishing was great! We caught flounder, croaker, and yellow tail. Yummy! Too bad there were sharks in nearby Avon - that kept us out of the water.

Sharon: congrats! Welcome!

Fisherman: $24k sounds a bit high for a plain S. I've seen loaded up S Premiums for that much. Try www.fitzmall.com.

If you decide to buy there, let me know 'cause I can get a referral fee and use part of it to get you a free year's membership to SCOA. That dealer has no-haggle pricing and the referral does not affect your price anyway.

-juice

drew_

...at 6-7pm Pacific/9-10 pm Eastern. Hope to see you there!

http://www.edmunds.com/chat/subaruchat.html

fisherman8

Hi Juice,
Thank's for the information on fitz.mall I will let you know if I decide to buy there. Problem is I live in Dover, Del. if I have to get something done with car I wonder how the dealer here is going cooperate.

ateixeira

Believe me, service is where they make their profits. They'll gladly accept your business anywhere.

Fitz does out-of-state purchases all the time, FWIW. If you'd like to discuss it further, my e-mail is in my profile.

-juice

asplundh

I know this is off topic but in light of what has happened here goes. I work about 3 miles from the World Trade Center and I just want to send out my prayers for the victims and their families and to show support for our country. God Bless America.

ateixeira

http://www.veh-tech.net/ says Subaru will sell an SUV based on the Legacy platform in August 2002 in the US. That's likely the next Forester.

That's big news. That would mean the next Forester would move to a bigger platform, and likely gain size, weight, and price.

I'm not sure I'm crazy about that idea. I like the nimble handling, and I doubt a Forester that weighed 3800 lbs or so would be as fun. If it had a 3rd row of seats, I may want one.

Thoughts?

-juice

drew_

Personally, I don't think I would want a 3rd row in a vehicle this small as it would undoubtedly be cramped and too close to the tailgate. The only third row which is at least quite acceptable to me was in the Toyota Sequoia. What do you think?

I do like the idea of the vehicle being based on the Legacy platform though, as we know that it has done well in crash tests. As for weight, a 3800lb E55 AMG or M5 feels pretty nimble and fun to me, so it can be done ;-)


Drew
Host
Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards

willgl

With the exception of the rear-wheel bearings, my '99 Forester has been reliable. However, I'm now on my fifth set of rear-bearings in 33 K miles. My dealer and SOA only acknowledge that the some Foresters have a wheel bearing problem. I'm guessing that I'll be returning in another few months as the repairs are apparently only temporary. I can say that my '97 Outback was largely trouble-free. Based on that positive experience, I bought the Forester -- big mistake.

ateixeira

I just prefer small vehicles. I felt the E320 was kind of big for my tastes. Of course anything AMG touches is an exception. I took a lap with a pro driver in an E-AMG and it was wild!

So IMO if the Forester is going to get big, it may as well maximize utility. May as well go all the way.

The 3rd seat could end up being a bit cramped, but it would be useful for quick trips. The XL7's has zero legroom unless you move the 2nd row forward. The new CR-V has a seat like that, so I'd like to see the Forester get a rear seat that moves fore/aft too.

The Rendezvous' 3rd seat was okay, but it left no cargo room. Again, this is fine for short trips. The Explorer's seemed roomier.

But the Forester would have the multilink rear suspension from the Outback, which means much better packaging. Add a longer wheelbase, and make the cabin upright and tall, and they could pull it off.

I'd really like to see a vehicle sized like the previous Odyssey, but with AWD and better styling. If they can incorporate the folding 3rd seat, I'll be first in line.

-juice