Radar/Lidar detectors

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Comments

  • rymcrymc Member Posts: 3
    I have heard mixed reviews about these and i was wondering if anyone had any opinions? Do they work or is it a waste of money? Also does anyone know if and where anyone would be selling used or dicounted V1s?? And if not. what is a good alternitive?? Thanks for all of your help!
  • blaneblane Member Posts: 2,017
    rymc:

    From all legitimate reviews that I've read, you would definitely be wasting your money on any scrambler or jammer. They don't work, or they broadcast illegally high levels of garbage microwave signals or bright lights, sure to get others sharing the road with you teed off.

    There is, unfortunately, no such thing as a new discounted V1. It's possible that you might find an old used one at a flea market or an auction website, but Buyer Beware, it may not function anymore.
  • rymcrymc Member Posts: 3
    I have heard mixed reviews about these and i was wondering if anyone had any opinions? Do they work or is it a waste of money? Also does anyone know if and where anyone would be selling used or dicounted V1s?? And if not. what is a good alternitive?? Thanks for all of your help!
  • bandagainbandagain Member Posts: 1
    "scramblers" as in the Rocky Mountain Radar products or any device that purports to scramble radar using an "FM Chirp" or any device that is called a "passive jammer" categorically DOES NOT WORK. They are bogus, a total sham. Period. There is only one (to my knowledge) active jammer on the market now, the Stealth RCD, and it only jams X and analog K band. Laser jammers, such as the Laser Blinder, and K40 diffuser work very well, but only against LIDAR.
  • mcgreenxmcgreenx Member Posts: 179
    Can the LIDAR operator tell he is being jammed by Laser Blinder or K40? And what other types of laser devices are their besides LIDAR? What is LIDAR? Thanks.
  • vac23vac23 Member Posts: 118
    LIDAR is best known as laser. I heard the operator knows if they are being jammed because the lidar gun emmits a different tone or beep
  • bheplerbhepler Member Posts: 101
    It depends on what model of laser gun they're using. Certain models just return "---" while one particular model shows "Err". Several earlier models just don't return a number. I'd have to do some digging to give you exact makes & models.
  • rymcrymc Member Posts: 3
    DO those warning system on some of the new radar detectors actually work? Is it worth it? Also what is the best detector in the < $200 range? Thanks for your help
  • dgeminidgemini Member Posts: 161
    I am sure glad I read this post. I was almost thinking that X-band radar was only used by department stores!

    I own a Bel 870 radar detector. I bought it because I saw where the top of the line Bel came in second to the V1.

    I was primarily concerned wih which company made the best detectors other than V1. So if it is Bel I figured it wouldn't matter which Bel it was.

    So I read the boxes for all the Bel models, and purchased the least expensive model that had all the same essential features as the top of the line model.

    The only thing the top of the line had that was different was a "better" display, and a few more bells and whistles.

    Was I wrong to think this?

    Thanks.
  • bheplerbhepler Member Posts: 101
    I don't think you were wrong. You did your research, found out what features you wanted, and bought at your price level. In essence, you compromised, and did it intelligently.

    Good luck.


    rymc - that's the proprietary system that pops up with such fun messages as "construction" or "caution" or what have you, yes?
  • dgeminidgemini Member Posts: 161
    So far my Detctor has saved me at least once.
    However, I would like to buy a V1 someday since I realize nothing really comes close to it.

    However, one everyone goes to laser we'll all be screwed anyway.
  • bigman4bigman4 Member Posts: 1
    Is anyone familiar with the hardwire installation of a V1 on a 1999 Toyota Camry? I am clueless as to where the electrical wires to connect the detector to are located.
  • publixpublix Member Posts: 3
    the SWS devices can apparently discriminate between different radar types (police & SWS) and extract messages based upon this.

    On LIDAR and whether the operator knows he's being jammed; yes, he will know he's being jammed because the gun will make weird bleeping noises and come up "Err" in the display. If I ever can get a K40, I'm going to put a bypass switch on it to cut in the Laser after I've gotten my speed down (it gives you a warning in the cabin that the laser jammer has been activated)...you can bet that any cop that's got jammed will probably wanna come get you. As LIDAR (laser infrared detection & ranging [?]) can ONLY work from a stationary point (currently), he HAS to radio ahead to his buddy in the CAR to pull you over if you're in excess...my guess is that if your K40 or Laser Blinder jams him to the gun (they will do just this), that he's going to pull you over for harassment purposes anyway. You may not get ticketed, or they may confiscate (illegally) your jammer equipment by force (cops have guns)...either way, I see giving them some read as the best option, even if you have to jam them for 3 or 400 feet.
  • dnk1dnk1 Member Posts: 26
    You should be able to hardwire to the cigarette lighter power. Better yet, borrow multimeter from someone and keep poking around at thin (key here is THIN . . . do not poke at the thick yellow wires that have the electrical sign on them!) wires until you find one that has +12V when the ignition is on.

    The V1 kit has an adapter so you just clamp the positive around the wire w/ +12V and squeeze it shut with pliers. Then clamp the negative wire to ground and hook it up.

    Hope this helps.
  • publixpublix Member Posts: 3
    Wiring to the cig lighter is a good option because the radar detectors are pretty low current. You could run a wire to the fuse block, also.
  • publixpublix Member Posts: 3
    Wiring to the cig lighter is a good option because the radar detectors are pretty low current. You could run a wire to the fuse block, also.
  • shekharpatelshekharpatel Member Posts: 27
    Speed limits are part of the driving rules established on scientific facts and HARD DATA. Similar to "drinking alcohol slows your response time" so does speeding beyond posted limits : not only to you but to others also.
    When we are issued driving licence, we have to sign a paper declaring that we will follow the rules and abide by the law. Purchasing and using radars and jammers is a direct contradiction of the LAW OF THE LAND as it amounts to conspiring towards spread of anarchy.
    The right thing is : Tell your Congress wo/man and lobby hard to remove speedlimits, trafficsignals etc so thatyou can enjoy the adrenaline rush on the public highways

    ps: donot forget to legalize armor-piercing ammo when you talk to your representative.
  • bheplerbhepler Member Posts: 101
    If you ignore them, they will go away...
    If you ignore them, they will go away...
    If you ignore them, they will go away...

    Ah, hell.

    Speed limits are set by local councils based upon 1) surrounding neighborhood (schools, residential, distance from the street, sidewalks) 2) need for revenue, 3) local protest and petitions and 4) whimsy. There is nothing scientific about it.

    Radar detectors are legal in 49 out of 50 states. The "LAW OF THE LAND" as you are so fond of typing, has determined that if the police are going to use radar to invade our privacy like that, the least we should be able to do is to know when they are doing it. Hence, radar detectors are legal (mostly).

    Somehow I don't think speeding is going to cause the collapse of our government and law enforcement, which is what anarchy would be.

    "drinking alcohol slows your response time so does speeding beyond posted limits". I call you on poor logic and/or poor communication. Driving faster will NOT slow down anyone's reaction time. It will shorten the time you have to react, it will not impair you physically, such as the consumption of alcohol does.

    ps - there has never been a single case of "armor-piercing ammo" causing a fatality in the history of US law enforcement.

    buh-bye.
  • xorbtantxorbtant Member Posts: 37
    I have just ordered a V1 and was wondering what the affects are regarding Metalized Tint? I have gone to the V1 site and read info considering that the V1 will not work properly if a vehicle has metalized tint. Does anyone here have any experiences in reference using a V1 with metalized tint? How does it work or does it work at all? I currently have 3M High Performance metalized tint on my vehicle and I would hate to take the tint off after paying 200 bucks for it and considering I live in FL. Would appreciate all experience regarding this issue.
  • bheplerbhepler Member Posts: 101
    but an anecdote. The Corvette ZR-1 used to have a small section of the window that was designed to give a radar detector a view around the metalized film that came with the car.
  • xorbtantxorbtant Member Posts: 37
    how did they manage to do that? I am curious. Well, considering mine is not a ZR-1 and a 328is I would like to know it.
  • blaneblane Member Posts: 2,017
    xorbtant:

    Why would you even question Valentine One's specific, detailed, logical and reasonable disclaimer that their product shouldn't even be considered for purchase or use behind a windshield with metalized tint? The metal in the tint acts as a mirror to reflect a major portion of the incoming radar signal back outside of your vehicle, thereby reducing the signal that can reach your radar DETECTOR and that it can detect. This would leave you with minimal protection for the dollars spent.

    Your request for "experiences" from users seems unrealistic compared with V1's own extensive and expensive testing.

    Cutting a small portion out of your $200 tinting wouldn't work either, as the V1 is looking for radar signals in a 360° circle around your car
  • abkhanabkhan Member Posts: 5
    I am thinking about buying a V1 after reading all the posts it looks like the best one on the market. However, there are some posts that state that V1 will not not warn you when a cop uses laser and some posts indicate that 95% of the cops use laser. What's gives.
  • mcgreenxmcgreenx Member Posts: 179
    Nothing works against laser because it is instantaneous. When your detector tells you you've be zapped, it's too late to take evasive action. At this moment, relatively few police departments use laser.
  • blaneblane Member Posts: 2,017
    abkhan

    mcgreenx is correct...IF you are the one being targeted by the LIDAR gun. However, if you receive a laser warning from your detector, you may be lucky enough to have detected a signal being aimed at a vehicle traveling ahead of you in your same direction. Slowing down in that circumstance would augment the protection provided by your detector.
  • ed12ed12 Member Posts: 100
    Shek:

    Hard facts.
    1)Every year, NY state publishes statistics on the state. In there is a table listing causes of accidents. Exceeding the speed limit does not appear on that table.

    2) NY state has no study that shows people who get speeding tickets are more likely to be in accidents.

    Those are my hard facts, what are yours?

    ed12
  • zilioxziliox Member Posts: 6
    Anyone have any experience with the VI display etched into the rearview mirror?
  • xorbtantxorbtant Member Posts: 37
    Well blane I don't have metalized tint on my windshield just thew back and side. As I got concerned with this issue, I called them personally and found out that the sides really don't matter and the back might take some range off the distance of rear detection. However my windshield is perfect. But the film I use is not a typical window film and although it is metalized tint it gets real light especially in the dark. Mike at V1 told me on the phone to test out the rear and side detection with the windows up near a shopping center and see how much of the led lights light up. Then I should stick the unit out and test the V1. If the led reading is same, then I have no interference at all. well, I should be receiving the unit in the next 2 hours or so. I will test and see.
  • abkhanabkhan Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for clarifying this for me. I have a better understanding about this. After reading all the posts here with great information the mind tends to get cloudy and a simple clarification helps. Thanks.
  • mcgreenxmcgreenx Member Posts: 179
    Does Val1 offer a trial period, with return priveleges? Nothing on their website would so indicate.
  • blaneblane Member Posts: 2,017
    ziliox:

    Could you clarify what you mean by "any experience with the VI display etched into the rearview mirror?"

    You would mount any detector above, below or to the side of your rearview mirror, so I'm not sure of your question.
  • blaneblane Member Posts: 2,017
    xorbtant:

    A major advantage of my V1 is when, as I drive down the road, I can determine that a radar source that was ahead of me is being passed (display arrow switches from front to sides) or is now behind me (display arrow now switches from sides to rear). With a reduced signal from the sides or rear due to metalized window tint film, I'd be less confident in analysing the threat.

    I hope that your V1 arrived on time and that your "test" was successful. Good luck and enjoy!
  • xorbtantxorbtant Member Posts: 37
    Well, I got my valentine on time and it seems to work ok. I did the test and found out that it works a little better with the side windows down. The difference is one LED light, otherwise it seems to work correctly. One question is, how can I tell what is what? This thing goes nuts when I drive through my town. Well, I am now trying to hardwire the unit so it will automatically turn on when I turn the engine on. However I seem to be having a problem. Either the supplied parts for hardwiring is not functional or I am doing something wrong. However I did try using a guage and it read 12v though. If anyone can help me in installing the unit to a BMW 3 series I would appreciate it.
  • zilioxziliox Member Posts: 6
    I found a website (Teknicar.com) which describes an installation where the guts of the valentine are mounted in the dash or the rear deck, the antennae (or whatever sends out the radar signal) are located fore and aft, and the display (the up/down/sideways arrows and bogey counter)is ETCHED into the inside rearview mirror. Essentially, these guys have figured out a complete remote installation of the V1 with a pretty cool display to boot. I have a front/rear K40 installation currently (in the bumpers), using existing (but unused) dashboard lights to identify front or rear radar signals, but this V1 installation looks unbelievable.
  • blaneblane Member Posts: 2,017
    ziliox:

    I just checked it out at

    http://www.teknicar.com/radarsystems.htm

    That IS an amazing setup, and an interesting page, the way the images cycle. I'm sure that their installation comes real cheap...NOT! Looks like it's only available for installation at their Manhattan location too.

    I'd be concerned with a system that's bumper-mounted though. The higher in your vehicle you mount a detector's antenna, the longer-range your detection of RADAR or LIDAR will be. That would be especially important when coming over a rise or crest in the road with the gun aiming up at you from the other side of the hill. You don't have as much time to react with a low-mounting.
  • blaneblane Member Posts: 2,017
    xorbtant:

    When you are driving through town you might want to not display the "A" All-Bogeys mode. That detects too many signals for local driving situations. You should probably use one of the two "L" Logic or Advanced-Logic modes that filter out less threatening signals. Pages 12 through 14 of my owner's manual explain that pretty well.

    I too, have mine hard wired. However, I turn the Control Knob off and on manually instead of letting it power up with the ignition (I'm afraid of transient voltage spikes). 12 volts and a negative ground should be all that you require. Don't forget to check the fuse and check for electrical continuity. I found a 12 volt source at the overhead sunroof switch in my 1999 Cougar, so there are no wires travelling down past the windshield. I've previously used power from an overhead light switch in a Toyota.

    By the way, was your no-power situation with the key in the on position?
  • bheplerbhepler Member Posts: 101
    Thanks for the link on that V1 installation. I sent those guys an e-mail about gettting one done on my car.

    They're in New York, which is a bit far to drive for me. They don't sell the installation materials as a kit (not even the mirror) as each installation is a custom job.

    Average price for an installation is $3200. Ouch.

    Still, that's a kick-[non-permissible content removed] idea.
  • xorbtantxorbtant Member Posts: 37
    Well, I figured it out and it works perfect. I have only the plug and about 2 inches of wire showing now. I did it using the light power source. My main problem was that my ground was not good. But now it is all well. However I would have to agree with you on higher mounting as you mentioned before. When I use the radar on my explorer and mount it as high as i can, I get a definitely better reading. That is even with 5% Limo Tint on all the windows of the Explorer. Oh as for the rear window being reflective metal tint, I am now thinking about installing the unit at the back of the car and using an optional display. I figure that by mounting it at the back of the car and cutting a section off the tinting I would get a better reading and hopefully the front reading will be well too. This I also hope to do by using the power source from my third brake light. Anyways, I was wondering if FL is the only place where most grocery stores and shops use K band radar door sensors. Ever time I drive by a dam gas station or a store it is 80% of the time K band. Also to note have anyone gotten a false Ka or Laser reading. I have had three laser warnings today and I thought that was a lot. Either these Orlando, fL cops are out to get people or we have some real high wave radar doors.
  • blaneblane Member Posts: 2,017
    xorbtant:

    I'm glad your installation was successful.

    Watch that rear installation. It's a great idea, but you'd better consider that the electrical wire to the third brake light is only hot when your foot is on the brake pedal. I'd look for a different wire that was alway hot back there. (or run one from somewhere else)
  • bheplerbhepler Member Posts: 101
    K radar is used on several automatic doors, in several states. Walmart, Costco, Kmart are the three leading offenders to my knowledge.

    And it's not just Florida. I can add Texas, Mississippi, Lousisiana, Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina and Virginia to that list that has this problem.

    It is actually a known technique of state troopers to hang out near these stores. Most radar detectors sound off with only a tone for X band. Regular travelers in that section of road will know that it's the doors of the store setting it off and ignore it. That's when the state trooper will nab you, because your detector hasn't told you anything new.

    Best technique with the Valentine is to zip past that place once or twice and see what the threat counter says. Say there are two doors on that section of road. If you go through that area and the threat counter reads three, you are in deep kimchee.
  • zilioxziliox Member Posts: 6
    I, too, spoke with the guys at Teknicar. In addition to the way cool V1 installation, they also include a K40 diffuser mounted under the front license plate bracket. I didn't really understand the guy's explanation of what the diffuser adds to the package. Any ideas why they include it, and is it an affordable add-on to a car already carrying V1 protection?
  • bheplerbhepler Member Posts: 101
    Yeah, the diffuser is a laser countermeasure which compliments the V1's laser detection capability.

    Forgive me, o lord, for doing this...

    [LectureMode = ON]
    Radar detectors work because of a nifty property of radar: you can detect it at greater ranges than it can detect you. It also doesn't hurt that it has the tendency to go through things like trees. Radar signals are very diffuse creatures. As they radiate out from the radar gun, they spread out from each other. At a certain distance, they are diffuse enough that there isn't enough bouncing off of your car to make the return trip to the radar gun and get a speed reading. Keep in mind that once they bounce off your car, they again spread out in all directions, and only a certain percentage will be going back the way they came.

    However, there are enough radar waves flying into your car that your detector can sense them and give you some warning. The distance between when you first get a radar tug from your detector and the distance at which enough signal is being returned to the radar gun is the distance in which you need to slow down to something approximating legal.

    Radar detectors work on this pricipal. Laser is a whole 'nother ball of wax. Since laser light is coherent light, it doesn't disperse nearly as much as radar does (commercially available red light lasers are 3" at 1000 ft). This means that a much higher concentration will be bouncing off of your car, with the correspondingly higher possibility of getting a good return signal back to the gun. There also is the problem that since it doesn't disperse as much, it can be aimed very precisely. Namely, the trooper will aim at the most reflective spot he can: your license plate. With little to no dispersion, your laser detector may never even see the laser targeting you.
    [LectureMode = OFF]

    This is where the diffuser comes in. It will spit out laser light down by your license plate and attempt to confuse the laser gun. Laser guns work by sending out pulses. It measures the time between the pulses after they come back from your car, and compares the difference. Since it really only needs two pulses to bounce back to determine your speed, there is little time to react.

    The diffuser will emit laser light, which will be stronger than the reflected laser light in an attempt to confuse the laser gun. It is a countermeasure, not just a source of information.

    HTH
  • zilioxziliox Member Posts: 6
    Thank-you Professor. A coherent and lucid explanation indeed. Somehow I get the idea this isn't the first time you have addressed this particular subject. Fortunately, I do understand that there isn't a Federal Lightbeam Commission, so at least I don't have to ask about legality. In any case, it shows that those guys at Teknicar really do have a complete and thorough package, albeit rather expensive at $3200.
  • bheplerbhepler Member Posts: 101
    You're welcome, Gilligan. :)

    Sorry. Couldn't resist.

    Yeah, I went through this research about eighteen months ago when I was looking at getting the K40 system installed in my car. Well, I bought & test-drove a V1 and I am in a bit of a bind. I like the functionality of the V1, but I need the in-dash installation of the K40. The laser diffuser I can add later.

    The Teknicar setup is the most professional looking installation I've seen yet. I bet it is top-notch (you did notice that some of the pictures on the web site were in a Ferrari, yes?) and great quality... but you pay for that quality out the nose.

    Right now, I'm thinking of getting the V1, the remote control panel, the remote display panel, and working something out. The hard part will be mouting the sucker. I can't mount it to the roof, I have a convertible. I can't make it visible, I live in Virginia.

    Once I get that solved, I think I'll do the next best thing to the in-the-mirror installtion: mount the display panel in a guage cluster on the a-pillar.
  • xorbtantxorbtant Member Posts: 37
    That is a lot of tickets there. I think I will take my chances with only the V1 and pay my tickets or just not speed. Oh by the way how do you know kimchee Bhepler?
  • bheplerbhepler Member Posts: 101
    I know kimchee by the smell.

    One of the freshmen on my hall in my dorm when I was a junior used to make the stuff in his room. You couldn't breathe without wincing for two doors up and two doors down the hall. I really felt sorry for his roommate.

    Anyhow, he got kicked out of the dorms for pulling a knife on his roommate.
  • cashcmere40cashcmere40 Member Posts: 1
    I have been looking at radar detectors a lot recently, and read all the posts under this topic. I know the valentine is the best by far, but which is next? I can get the newest BEL 980 for $200. Any reviews/opinions on that? What about the Whistler 1670 or 1540? Are these good? Thanks for any responses. I am just getting a car and all my money is going to that, so I can't afford the Valentine.
  • xorbtantxorbtant Member Posts: 37
    If you look carefully you will find a Bel 980 somewhere in a dumpster. I threw my 980 away because it was the biggest piece of crap I owned. You are wasting your money and time, don't settle for second go for the best. With all honesty, no radar detector is 100% proof and it is kind of a waste of money. But if you must have one go get a V1, I got mine a week or so ago and it does work better then the Bel but I still don't trust it. Hey I can't afford the darn thing either but I guess that is what credit cards are for. Good luck and dont waste your money on others.
  • blaneblane Member Posts: 2,017
    cashcmere40:

    Don't outSLICK yourself RICK. You are talking about a difference of $200, or $4 per week for one year. Man, that could be one $200 speeding ticket.
  • ronniepoohronniepooh Member Posts: 339
    Another reason the K40 diffuser is actually built into the licens plate frame...Officers need to aim the laser gun at something highly reflective up front...big chrome grille, or even better..a front license plate! Also why another option is one of those license plate covers routinely sold on the net to "block" laser. Want a cheap substitute? Remove your front license plate. Whats that, your state requires a front tag? Do like I've done for 5 years, keep your plate under your floor mat. If you ever get pulled over, slip it on top of your dash. (You also need to put in on the dash when you park in town, as meter maids can give you a ticket for failing to display a front tag.) (DC meter maid gave me a ticket for this a year ago, and my car was not even registered in DC!! THey have a list of states that require front tags.)
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