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Mazda RX 8 Engine Failure Problem

oldtimer2oldtimer2 Posts: 19
edited January 2014 in Mazda
The following is my opinion from reading the discussions about RX 8 problems from other RX 8 forums on the Internet and you can form your own opinion :::::::::

The only thing wrong with Mazda RX 8's sold in the USA is that Mazda requires the use of very thin light weight 5W-20 oil that breaks down and cannot protect the rotary engine and catalytic converter from early failure, because the normally very hot running engine runs very, very hot especially in slow traffic and long drives in warm weather. Every city in the USA has slow traffic jams and warm weather.

Every where else in the World (except in the USA) Mazda requires in the RX 8 Owners Manual the use of 5W-30 oil to adequately protect the very same hot running rotary engine that is in RX 8's in the USA. The heavier oil protects the engine and oil seals from failure and prevents oil blow by from ruining the catalytic converter, for over 200,000+ miles, as documented in many forums on the web.

For example, printed on Castrol bottles of 5W-20 weight synthetic oil, says "use only in cars used for short trips" and another 5W-20 Castrol bottle of non synthetic oil says "use only if required by the car manufacture". Other wise, Castrol ,who sets the standard for excellent oil, does not recommend the use of 5W-20 oil unless directed to by the car manufacture or for short trips.

In addition, Castrol can be objective with out any conflicts of interest about which oil weight not to use to protect an engine, because it does not manufacture cars nor have any vested interests or concerns about meeting EPA miles per gallon requirements to avoid fines.

In the USA the RX 8 engines using the very light 5W-20 weight oil last maybe for around 30,000 miles before needing to be rebuilt a number of times before and after expiration of the warranty. This is probably why Mazda now only warrants the car for 3 years or 36,000 miles instead of the prior warranty of 5 years or 50,000 miles. This is also clearly documented in many RX 8 owner web sites.

However, in the USA Mazda requires the use of inadequate light weight 5W-20 oil in order for Mazda to meet EPA miles per gallon (MPG) gas consumption requirements. This light weight oil shortens the life of this normally very hot running rotary motor to around 30,000 miles, at the expense of the consumer who needs to keep spending lots of money and time to keep it running.

The owners must keep them running because no dealership wants to take the car in on trade or offer a fair amount on trade due to the now widely known problems Mazda has caused to happen to the RX 8

New buyers should consider not buying Mazda RX 8 cars until Mazda permits USA owners to also use non synthetic 5W-30 oil in their rotary engine, without loosing their warranty, as Mazda recommends throughout the rest of the World. Mazda could still put in the USA, RX 8 owners manual, recommendations to use 5W-20 oil to satisfy EPA , but not cancel the warranty of those who wisely choose to use non synthetic 5W-30 oil as recommended by Mazda, thorough out the rest of the World.

A class action law suit will straighten out Mazda and increase the life of our cars and make the car worth a proper amount when traded. RX 8 owners in the USA did not buy their RX 8 with full disclosure by the Mazda dealership that the car motor and catalytic would wear out much, much quicker than other cars, due to Mazda oil requirements in the USA nor how Mazda treats the USA RX 8 customer.

My Mazda dealership before purchase told me the RX 8 motor would last over 200,000+ miles because it was the nature of engines. With the first oil change though they also told me they would not put 5W-30 weight oil in my RX 8 because according to them it would damage the engine (which is a lie) and would void the warranty, according to Mazda USA. Well it is common knowledge now with the USA Mazda required use of 5W-20 oil the engine will not last 200,000 miles as advertised and more like it the motor will only last around 30,000 miles before needing to be rebuilt again and again etc.

Every RX 8 owner in the USA had better individually or join together to fight the Mazda lies about the weight of oil to use in their RX 8 or their motor's will have a very short life with no one to blame in the long run except for your own lack of sticking up for yourself and what you know is right.


  • trispectrispec Posts: 305
    Nearly every car I've ever owned has at some point, caught one of those thin plastic grocery bags up under CAT. The bag begins to melt as it ultimately wraps itself around the hot metal.

    Now when this happened recently to my RX-8 AT, I thought, no problem, cause that super hot CAT is going to burn that plastic bag to a cider in one day. Three weeks later, the plastic is still there, very very slowly turning a light brown color and smelling with that hot plastic smell.

    I've driven the car on the highway, and revved the engine to 6000-7000 fairly regularly in city driving. That plastic grocery is not NOT burning away. It's not even turning black. The plastic grocery bag is simply evaporating under low heat over a period of many many weeks.

    The way this little incident is playing out, I'd have to say, there does not appear to be very much heat difference at the CAT between my RX-8 any other car I've ever owned.
  • Hi Trispect,

    There are many diferent types of catalytic converters but the two basic types are those that do and dont have air pumps. the one on the RX 8's, in order to do a better job at cleaning up the eshaust gas, has an air pump which pumps air into a port in the eshaust system ahead of the cat which enables the cat to better burn off the bad sxhaust emisions.

    I don't know what your reply has to do about being duped by USA Masada as to why RX 8 engines are failing, which I wrote about, but what you said was interesting ....and there you go with an explanation about RX 8 Cats, their fresh air pumps and air injection ports..........Later,......and good luck with your RX 8 and dealer when the engine fails because you are forced to use the to light 5W-20 weight oil....when throughout the rest of the world Masda Japan requires in the owners manual that 5W-30 oil must be used to protect the engine for a long life (without having to be rebuilt numerious time before and after the warranty expires) for the car to run for 200,000 miles, as promoted by Masda sales.

    I wonder who Mazda or Ford buys their oil from, so I can look up the specs and compare it to the RX 8's actual operating temperatures and oil shear requirements of the engine. I expect the findings will suport Castrol's recomentations that light 5W-20 weight oil (as required by Mazda USA to meet warranty provisions) should not be used in cars that are ever driven long distances or more than, very short trips, to prevent over heating and breaking down the oil protection of the engine.

    If you were thinking by mentioning that the plastic bag not melting off Catlytic Converter has any thing to do with the operating temperature of the engine it dosen't !!! In addition to many other factors effecting the operating temperature of metal parts in the rotary engine, remember that (1) the speed (friction)of moving parts in the rotary engine, and (2) the much lighter weight and much smaller exterior surface of the engine to "sink" heat from the rotary engine, compared to a standard piston engine...all causes the rotary engine to opperate at least 50% hoter than piston engines, which therefore might survive the light weight 5W-20 weight oil...where the rotary engine can not !!!
  • fedlawmanfedlawman Posts: 3,118
    I've heard that Honda, Ford, and Mercedes Benz all recommend 5W-20 synthetic for their cars now.
  • Hi Fedlawman,

    As you may know Honda, Ford, and Mercedes Benz in addition to Mazda, all have problems meeting EPA's miles per gallon (MPG) requirements for their fleet of cars to reduce more $$$ of the huge (million $$$) fines that EPA charges.

    In order to reduce (huge) MPG gas fines, they have been recommending like Mazda the use of the very light 5W-20 weight oil to cut down the resistance to movement of parts in the motor caused by the heaver oil adhering to and protecting from metal to metal friction.

    To understand more about EPA-MPG gas requirements and huge fines look on the web under EPA Gas MPG Requirements and (huge)Fines.

    In this connection though, I understand Mercedes Benz has changed their recommendation for oil back to a 30W base oil and Honda is also considering doing the same, if not already done so, to prevent further engine failure claims by their valued customer. I guess Mazda customers come last !!!

    More importantly remember that Castrol, who is the standard for good oil protection, does not recommend the use of their own 5W-20 oil under the same circumstances. In addition Ford makes Motorcraft light weight 5W-20 oil because they also own 33% of Mazda and probably have bigger problems meeting EPA - MPG gas requirements without EPA charging huge fines for their fleet of cars. Again the EPA web site gives examples of huge (millions $$$) fines that charges and manufactures want to reduce.
  • Hi Trispec,

    Hay, I just caught on to the point you were trying to make in your response to my post about the RX 8 engine failures, light weight 5W-20 oil and hot engines breaking down the light oil.

    Sorry I had tunnel vision when I read your response. If my response to you was interesting OK, if not ignore it.

    Now hopefully in reply to your response, I think you were making the point that, if your Catalytic was not melting the plastic bag wrapped around it, then the engine should not be very hot. Very, very interesting deduction Dr Watson.

    I can only believe you as to what you have observed.

    Years ago the Cats were so hot that they caught everything on fire including dry grass, floor mats inside cars, things in trunks and oil mats under cars in ones garage and burned down houses.....which was all not good. I also remember when I was a kid replacing mufflers and Cats at a Sears auto garage for extra spending money, and that one also had to be careful in taking off a Cat. I was told that any pounding or cutting on the Cat could make a spark that would cause the cat to blow up in my face.

    I surmise that the car industry has done something to make the cats safer and cooler because the fire problems have stopped. But how cool and how the industry did it I can only deduct. I suspect that they double walled the outside of the Cat and may have routed some of fresh air into and between the outer double wall of the Cat to make the outside more cooler. I only guess, as an Engineer.

    I do know though the inside of a Cat must burn glowing hot to burn off unwanted gas in the exhaust but how hot this will make the outside of a modern Cat I do not know. But I might be concerned, if it was to cool because this might mean that the cat is plugged up with blow by oil through heat failed engine seals into the Cat. I know the tips of my exhaust is so hot I can not touch them, but I have not tried to put my hand close to or touch the outside of the Cat after a drive.

    Your observation was a good one to ponder. Seals in engines though are failing due to too much heat as is evident from failed engines and cats plugged up with oil as documented on RX 8 owner forums. And mazda is building a factory according to their announcements to rebuild failed motors, but they will probably be rebuilt the same as the failed ones and use the same required oil to only fail again and again.

    Good luck with your RX 8. I have thought about having the Mazda dealer put in a larger oil cooler to keep the oil from breaking down on long drives in hot weather. A larger oil cooler should not violate my warranty, where in using 5W-30 oil, like the rest of the world uses, would in the USA.

    Oh, how many miles do you have on your RX 8 and have you yet taken many long 4 to 8 hour drives in hot weather with out any adverse engine symptoms ??? I am afraid to take long drives in warm weather after talking with a few master service techs that used to work at Mazda dealerships. Maybe a larger oil cooler is in my future........Later and thanks for the reply.
  • trispectrispec Posts: 305
    Yeh, the situation of the plastic bag being wrapped around my CAT just caused my brain to fart. No other thinking on my part, sorry.

    Here in Boston, and around New England, where I take my family on day trips, I can't really say that heat has ever been a big issue. We do have a maybe a dozen days of 90 plus weather each summer. And my commute into Boston was an hour of stop and go each day, but I bought my 2005 RX-8 AT brand new with 5 miles on the odometer in September so that first year of ownership started out with cool and cold weather driving for about 10K miles.

    We've taken three 2000 miles trips, all in the winter between Boston and the mountains of NC. We've taken a single trip to Maine in July, 300 miles.

    Now if I've lived in Texas, where my brother's family practically lives in an outdoor pool all summer and where they had forty straight days of 100 plus heat, I might be worried as hell about owning an RX-8.
  • rhesterrhester Posts: 29
    I'm seriously thinking of purchasing a leftover '06 on a local dealers lot. Reading this, two things spring to mind:

    1. If you used 5W30 the entire time up until you had to take the car in for whatever reason, would Mazda notice if you switched back to 5W20 immediately prior to bringing it in? Could switching oil grades cause additional problems?

    2. How much gas mileage do you actually lose by using 5W30?
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Posts: 1,015
    If you think Mazda could tell -used- oil is 5W30 rather than 5W20 you've been watching too much CSI. ;) There is no way they could tell by looking at the oil (or even by having it analyzed - it gets changed too much in use). However, they may ask you for "dated proof of purchase" of the 5W20 that is allegedly in the engine. I don't think switching grades would cause any problems due to the switch.

    I don't know about the RX-8, but I've seen claims of about 5-10% fuel economy difference between 5W30 and 10W30.
  • rhesterrhester Posts: 29
    Thanks for the reply, pathstar ;)

    In that case, why doesn't everyone just use 5W30 until the point where the car needs to be taken in? Shoot, perhaps if we all used 5W30 we wouldn't NEED to take it in :)

    Anyway, it doesn't look like I'll be getting the RX-8 I was spying. The dealer wants over 30k for it. A 2006! Ok, it is a Shinka package but that still Blue Books for $28k. I digress...
  • oldtimer2oldtimer2 Posts: 19

    I did not like the Shinka because it seemed like a big deal over an otherwise plain looking car. But everyone has different fantasys.

    Look at the Grand Touring model with ground effects and a great appointed interior with red leather accents, which makes you think you are getting your money's worth. I also had the dealership add some Mazda Speed extras which makes more horsepower and is still under warranty since the dealership installed the parts, so they say.

    Break the car in carefully, then find out the fun of using 3rd gear to put the rear bumper huggers in the distance. Third gear will take you to 80 MPH in a heart beat.

    If you want to make sure that the rotary apex seals are being lubricated properly, pour around 6-8 ounces of non-synthetic 2 cycle oil into your gas tank as you fill the tank like those who race RX-8 cars, to be safe than sorry.

    Face it, Mazda will probably never officially tell anyone to use 5W-30 or 10W-30 oil instead of 5W-20 oil because then EPA would be all over Mazda to pay millions in fines for exceeding MPG requirements for their entire fleet of cars.

    I have read on one web site that the difference in miles per gallon between the to oil weights is only about 1/10 of a mile per gallon which means nothing to us, but for Mazda when multiplied and averaged for the entire fleet of Mazda's sold it adds up the lots of gallons per mile and lots of $$,$$$,$$$ of EPA fines.

    Mazda would just as soon replace lots of failed rotary engines than pay the fines, so the fine must be enormous. Google for "EPA Cafe MPG" and and get an idea of the fines.

    No wonder Mazda doesn't give a hoot about how long the RX 8 engine lasts for the consumer. In fact if the engine failures did not also ruin the catalytic converters, which EPA requires must function properly for about 6 years, Mazda probably would not ever care if RX 8 engines failed.
  • 007agnt007agnt Posts: 2
    I hope ya all are not using syn-oil in your rotary!
  • oldtimer2oldtimer2 Posts: 19

    You are correct, one should not use "synthetic base oil" in the RX 8 because the seals used in the RX 8 are made of cheap materials, which cannot withstand the "synthetic "based" oil. This is unlike, to the best of my knowledge, the seals used in all other cars because they can use synthetic based oil.

    If the seals are not made of materials that are "synthetic oil friendly" the seals will shrink and get brittle / hard which causes oil to leak into the catalytic converter causing it to fail. On the other hand, mineral oil will cause the same seal to swell and deform, which over a slight longer time will also cause the same seal to fail.

    I have heard also claims that synthetic oil injected into the motor will not burn or cause residue in the converter and cause it to plug up sooner....duh....anything burned in the catalytic converter will leave a residue of some kind. Though some of the oil additives of years ago which protected from metal to metal wear in the motor have been removed from modern oil, so car manufacture's will not need to replace failed catalytic converters before the warranty ran out ......all at the expense of the consumer and the profit gain of the car manufacture.

    So the "short story" is that, if the Mazda RX 8 seals are not good enough to use with synthetic oil then they also are not good enough "over the long haul" for mineral oil. If Mazda really had the consumer in mind they would use better seals so that the seals would not be effected by either kind of oil and the consumer could use synthetic oil, if the consumer wanted the car to last longer.

    That is the reason in my above posts I did not mention synthetic oil nor recommend the use of it in my discussion above, so there could be any confusion. The very light 5W-20 weight oil required by Mazda in RX 8's though, is actually only a 5 weight oil which is blended with synthetic polymers that cause the very thin 5 weight oil to increase it's viscosity to that of a 30 weight oil around an oil temperature of 220 degrees to supposedly help cushion metal to metal contact when the oil is very hot. But remember the oil is still only a 5 weight oil regardless of the 30 viscosity of the oil at 220 degrees and it is actually thinner at 220 degrees than it was as 5W oil at 0.0 degrees.......duh. Let's see if the sales, public relations and Master Tec's who talk like they are design engineers and know everything, understand that fact.

    Just remember that most of the recommendations one reads or is told about cars is from some public relation or so called "Master Tec's" who were told in some 2 week short course what they are supposed to think by the same type of so called industry expert. Design Engineers who know the truth, have forgotten more than all these spokespersons in the industry repeat and don't really understand......consumer beware !!!
  • Went in for an oil change and any service related to 25,000+ miles and also asked Mazda to perform any recalls related to my 05 rx8 (Grand Touring manual). My only complaints to the tech at that time were minor rattles coming from heat shield and the dashboard instrument panel. They asked me to leave the car with them for the weekend. I got a call a day and a half later saying that my engine did not pass the series of tests performed on the engine which is related to the recall. I was told I would be issued a re-manufactured engine. I never experienced any problems with the old one. Not one. I beat the hell out of that old engine and it ran great. I spent more time between 5-8500 rpms than I did at 3000! (Just kidding)

    I was hoping for a brand spanking new one, but oh well.

    I was caught completely off guard because I live in chicago and recent posts said the engine problems were related to most cars in warm/hot weather climates. I was also surprised because the tech test drove it with the old engine and said the performance of the old engine was not at its full capabilities.
    I got it back about a week and a half later (today), and I have to say it runs velvety smooth. I don't notice any increased performance, but the car feels smoother during acceleration and quieter during revs. It feels like it did when I first bought it. Plus, they took apart my instrument panel and tightened four loose screws that were causing the rattles. They even re-secured the heat shield underneath to stop the underbody rattle. No more rattles. My total bill was 85.00 for minor parts, replacing the cabin filter and rotating of tires. Not too bad considering the only money I have ever put into this car were the Blizzak winter tires and oil changes. I even got upgraded brake pads to stop the squeaking.

    I know there are some people ticked off about the engine problems or service and its understandable, but I am not at all miffed about the engine replacement. The service was great and my little toy runs like its new. I recommend that everybody get the recalls dealt with, regardless of what type of climate you live in. My tech said he has had to replace 7 RX8 engines over the last 6 months.
  • t_revt_rev Posts: 2
    I have an 04 rx8 A/t w/ 52k, and I live in Central Arizona. We have probaly 90+ days over one hundred degrees. My car was making a funny vibrating grinding noise when i would get up in the higher RPMs, and also under a load like going up a hill. The RPMS would also fluctuate. I took it in 3 times under the 50k warranty for it and they could not duplicate it. 3 days ago, my wife was driving it in phoenix and the cars RPMS fluctuated like crazy and it died. She got it started again and pulled into a shopping center. We had it towed in and left it at Earhardt Mazda. I am now out of warranty so when I spoke with the service advisor, he said that It looks like I am gonna need a new engine, and he is in communication with Mazda to see if they will cover it. I bought it from them only 3 months ago, and did my job by bringing it in to document this problem and they might not cover it? Any suggestions..
  • mdw1000mdw1000 Posts: 171
    The warranty was extended to 5 years/ 60k for the powertrain on the RX-8. Unless your car was originally titled more than 5 years ago, mazda will pay for it. Call Mazda if the dealer says they won't cover it.
  • t_revt_rev Posts: 2
    I have been speaking With mazda about this problem for over 3 weeks. They still have my car and cannot figure out what is wrong with it. Now they are saying it is the Catalytic converter. It is on Nationwide Backorder and they can't seem to scare one up. When the service writer spoke with me about it the first time, he said the tech found water in the combustion chamber. I know that condensation can build up in the exhaust system, but there should never be "water" in the combustion chamber unless there is a crack between the water passages and the cylinder wall or water coming through the intake because of a bad gasket, what does the catalytic converter have to do with this. I work fro a gm dealer in parts, so i know alot about domestic stuff, but the rotarys are kinda there own thing. I miss my car man, this Chevy Aveo rental isn't cutting it, lol.
  • mdw1000mdw1000 Posts: 171
    I'd go sign up for Lots of technical advice over there. One guy I know locally got a new engine when they found coolant in the combustion chamber.
  • OK so I have an rx-8 2004 .. I took it into Mazda had all the recalls fixed .. the car is running fine from what I can tell but there is a maple syrupy smell coming from the engine which is making me nervous I have a lil over 41,000 miles on the car does anyone one else have this smell coming from the car or do I need to take the car back?? and one more thing after reading what was wrote about the oil should I switch the oil from 5w-20 to 5w-30?? I don't really mind the extra gas I rather put out for gas then major problems with the car later... anyone have a lil advise for me ...OLDTIMER2 you seem to know what you are talking about can you help me out or anyone else please thanks... one more thing sorry to be such a pain but I was driving the car and I was waiting at the light and had the car in neutral and all of a sudden the car shut off when I took it to Mazda the blamed the battery but when I had the battery tested it was in good health .. does anyone have a answer for that
  • ok so I have a maple syrup smell coming from my engine of my Rx-8 Mazda does anyone know what it could be??? and should i switch my oil from 5w-20 to 5w-30?? can anyone help me ... and I've had all my recalls takin care of on my 2004 Rx-8??
  • Guys,

    I bought my car in 6 months ago, after warranty, because the engine was driving sluggish and the engine light was on. Mazda service put new coils on and when i got in my car the check engine light instantly came on. Great repair job! I immediately took it back to Mazda service and they said they made a mistake and they replaced the spark plugs. Couple weeks later the check engine light came back on, but i wasnt able to return for a couple months later until 3 weeks ago. I brought it in and they replaced my cat. convertor which was under warranty b/c i now have 72k miles. Got lucky. 2 days later my check engine light came back on and I was livid. I took it in and they said they knew what the problem was. They replaced something and i told them to drive it for 2 days and find the root of the problem and stop reading what the computer says. They just called me saying the intake valve(i think) needs to be replaced. The part is 1600 dollars and they have to pull the whole engine out in order to do this make the total cost 3600. What can i do about this?
  • boswell1boswell1 Posts: 4
    i've read alot on various websites regarding the RX-8, and was wanting to get some info regarding all of the recurring problems this vehicle seems to have. most of the problems seemed to be with the 2004/2005 model. Consumer Reports even indicated these years had their share of problems.

    1) Is the flooding problem a thing of the past with the 2008 model?
    2) Is the oil consumption a thing of the past with the 2008 model?
    3) Do you have to let it warm up all the time before you drive it ?
    4) Is it a reliable car? one that wont need to be towed to the dealer all the time?

    i am looking for a reliable car, thats the #1 thing for me. and i would like to have a sporty type car too. i want one i can just jump in and go, not one that absolutely has to be treated with kid gloves or else it wont run and has to go to the dealer.

    and speaking of dealers, i had one tell me three days ago the RX-8 is "Finicky" and that makes me wonder about it.

    can anyone shed any light?
  • duke15duke15 Posts: 161
    if reliability is of a big concern, I wouldn't buy the RX8. I'll probably get flamed for saying so, but there are a lot of quirks. I just sold my 2006. Although to be fair, some guys never had a problem for 100K+ with 2004's. I can't comment on anything other than my old 06.
  • Hmmm.

    1) Flooding: ANY rotary engine car, including 2008, will flood if not warmed up. It's the rotary design. Start it cold, move it 50 feet, turn it off immediately, and you've got a flooded engine potentially. You can try holding a 3000 RPM rev for ten seconds on a cold engine, then kill the ignition for a emergency cold engine shut down, but that's extra ware on the cold engine engine.

    2) Oil consumption: Burns 1qt/1000 miles. It is suppose to. Otherwise the engine will be no good fairly fast, because not burning oil means there isn't enough oil getting to the apex seals. Keeping RPMs above 3000 when driving will insure good volumes of oil circulation.

    3) Warming up: There's a high pitched fan noise that runs for 20 seconds or so, that's blowing exhaust gases out when the engine is cold. Let this stop at least. Then don't go popping 7000RPM when you first drive off until the water temp has reached mid level. Five minutes at most, then your good to drive like a maniac. Think to yourself, "the calm before the STORM, before letting the twins howl!"

    4) If you don't screw up 1,2 and 3, your new RX8 will go for well over 200K miles. And then you can re-build your own rotors, simple as pie. Watch the video:
  • boswell1boswell1 Posts: 4
    so, what happens if the engine does flood, and the car wont start?

    1) have to have it towed to the Mazda dealer for them to do their thing to get it started?
    2) let it sit and it will eventually start? 5 minutes? 5 hours? 5 days?

  • There is a flooded engine recovery procedure.

    From the manual:

    Holding accelerator down all the way + turning key for 10 seconds
    Then crank for with/o accelerator for 10 more seconds

    Repeated procedure twice.
  • I've never flooded my RX-8, but I did flood my RX-7 several times. Flooring the accelarator and cranking 10 seconds always worked, but there was a huge cloud of smoke after a flooding restart.
  • boswell1boswell1 Posts: 4
    i've talked to other people that say the potential flooding problem and high oil consumption being the norm for a rotary engine is complete BS.

    so, who do i believe? where does a guy go to get the absolute best info regarding the Mazda RX-8?

    on the one hand, i'd hate to buy one and start having problems with it. there's nothing worse than having car trouble. but on the other hand, if all you need to do is not shut the engine off when its cold, and add a quart of oil every 1,000 miles or so, thats no big deal.

    help............. :confuse:

  • duke15duke15 Posts: 161
    The engine is designed to use oil, but it isn't exactly burning it. It is used as lubrication. Many people find themselves down a quart every 1000 - 3000 miles. Trust me, if your car never uses any oil, problems will ocur. That isn't the norm though.
  • aviboy97aviboy97 Posts: 3,159
    i've talked to other people that say the potential flooding problem and high oil consumption being the norm for a rotary engine is complete BS.

    Well, it's not complete BS. Those people telling you other wise don't know the rotary engine very well. The engine has the spark plugs mounted on the side of the engine. The rotors spin around the peanut shaped rotor housing. Depending on where the rotors stop when the engine is turned off, there is a possibility that one of the rotors sets by the spark plugs. What happens is unburned fuel can sit on the rotor, and soak the spark plugs. Now your engine is flooded. Warming up your rotary engine before shutting it off makes that excess fuel evaporate. Excess fuel left in an engine is normal, but, since normal Otto cycle engines have the spark plugs on top of the combustion chamber, flooding cannot occur.

    Since late 2005, Mazda has equipped the RX-8 with hotter sparking spark plugs that help reduce the chance of flooding, even when someone turns off the engine when it is not warm.

    The rotary design is very reliable since there are only 3 moving parts. With proper lubrication, hence more oil consumption, it is not uncommon for these rotarys to eclipse the 200K mark. Why you usually don't see them do it is because since the late 80's, Mazda only uses them in performance vehicles. With performance marketing, comes tuner support. Tuner support translates into high horse power, and really testing the limits of the engine. Look at any performance engine, and what tuners do to it. Get as much power as you can before it blows. Subaru has been the latest company to have numerous engines blown because of the massive support for the WRX/STi's. I guess 300hp out of the box is not enough.

    trispec knows what he is talking about, and so do I. It seems as if your other sources do not.
  • 3rex83rex8 Posts: 1
    To address sexica22 's mention of maple smell. I have a 2007 6sp auto 8 and I've smelled a distinctive sweet smell after warmed and idling. All engine's with antifreeze can have that sickingly sweet smell with even a small seep. My water is still full and my scanguage shows cruising water temps from 179-186 F so the smell is not necessarily a problem, just a clue to watch for FL22 coolant leak.
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