Can you review this Rebuilt 2019 Acura ILX Premium w/Tech please?

NeedHelpRTitleNeedHelpRTitle Member Posts: 19
edited January 7 in Acura




The car has 55k miles, R title, and the seller accepted my offer of 11k.

After it was totaled, it sold at action for $8700 with 47k miles on it,and these were the values listed at that time of Sale in August 2023:

Estimated Retail Value: $20,028
Estimated Repair Cost: $17,671

The 17k repair damage is alarming for what appears to be a side hit that was mostly absorbed by the two doors. The front, rear, and other side of the car still looked normal.

The rebuilt occurred in January 2024, it had 47k miles at that time and then the current owner drove it up to 55k one year later in 2025.

I will appreciate any insight you can give. The 17k repair damage is a red flag to me and it being sold 1 year after it's reconstruction. He listed it at 14k, then lowered it to 13k after no one wanted it, then he accepted my offer of 11k without any push back.

I can schedule a local mechanic to give a pre-purchase inspection, not sure how accurate those can be.

Thank you in advance for any insight on this.

Comments

  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 17,395
    edited January 7
    I have had several cars with rebuilt titles and enjoyed many trouble-free years of use out of them, and ultimately it comes down to the thoroughness of the reconstruction. On a hit like that, it's the stuff you cannot see that will get you. Most likely, there weren't any issues with the drivetrain after a hit like that, but there were surely airbags that popped, ruined seatbelts, and other interior damage that is pricey on the repair. In addition, you have the structure of the car itself, which is what absorbed most of the impact, so if that wasn't repaired properly, you could have alignment issues that can cause vibration at various speeds and possible compromising of the safety shell of the car (meaning a future hit might not result in as much resiliency/protection by the car).

    PPI that includes a system diagnostics scan is a must, and a thorough test drive of the car at varying speeds, turns, etc., to ensure it is worth what you're paying. Were all the airbags and safety equipment replaced or simply removed? At $11K, you should be getting a discount due to the history (and not because it is a death trap).
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 2013 Ford F250 Lariat D, 1976 Ford F250, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100
  • NeedHelpRTitleNeedHelpRTitle Member Posts: 19
    xwesx said:

    I have had several cars with rebuilt titles and enjoyed many trouble-free years of use out of them, and ultimately it comes down to the thoroughness of the reconstruction. On a hit like that, it's the stuff you cannot see that will get you. Most likely, there weren't any issues with the drivetrain after a hit like that, but there were surely airbags that popped, ruined seatbelts, and other interior damage that is pricey on the repair. In addition, you have the structure of the car itself, which is what absorbed most of the impact, so if that wasn't repaired properly, you could have alignment issues that can cause vibration at various speeds and possible compromising of the safety shell of the car (meaning a future hit might not result in as much resiliency/protection by the car).

    PPI that includes a system diagnostics scan is a must, and a thorough test drive of the car at varying speeds, turns, etc., to ensure it is worth what you're paying. Were all the airbags and safety equipment replaced or simply removed? At $11K, you should be getting a discount due to the history (and not because it is a death trap).

    Thank you for replying with this valuable experience. I will make sure to get a thorough PPI and ask if it will include the system diagnostic scan.

    And I'll test drive for awhile and do a lot of turns like you said. I would end up driving this thing for as many years as I could, I'm not a car or speed person I just want a little comfort and a lot of longevity out of it.

    I bought a honda accord new in 2014, and with college kids keying my car, getting hit twice while I was parked, the starter dying after a couple years I am reluctant to go new again. I had a low mile r-title when I was a kid and I had some problems but because it was cheap it didn't bother me as much.

    Thanks again, hopefully the PPI lets me know one way or the other to make this decision easier.
  • oldfarmer50oldfarmer50 Member Posts: 23,813





    The car has 55k miles, R title, and the seller accepted my offer of 11k.

    After it was totaled, it sold at action for $8700 with 47k miles on it,and these were the values listed at that time of Sale in August 2023:

    Estimated Retail Value: $20,028
    Estimated Repair Cost: $17,671

    The 17k repair damage is alarming for what appears to be a side hit that was mostly absorbed by the two doors. The front, rear, and other side of the car still looked normal.

    The rebuilt occurred in January 2024, it had 47k miles at that time and then the current owner drove it up to 55k one year later in 2025.

    I will appreciate any insight you can give. The 17k repair damage is a red flag to me and it being sold 1 year after it's reconstruction. He listed it at 14k, then lowered it to 13k after no one wanted it, then he accepted my offer of 11k without any push back.

    I can schedule a local mechanic to give a pre-purchase inspection, not sure how accurate those can be.

    Thank you in advance for any insight on this.

    An inspection is definitely indicated but I would use a body shop that had experience with rebuilds rather than a mechanic. Also, have you checked with your insurance company? Some won’t insure a rebuilt title.

    2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible

  • nyccarguynyccarguy Member Posts: 17,115
    I could find better things to do with $11,000 like light it on fire, give it to Bernie Madoff to invest, or pay an overwhelming majority of my yearly property taxes. In all seriousness, people have done well with rebuilt title cars. Since you say "I'm not a car or speed person I just want a little comfort and a lot of longevity out of it," I'd take the $11K, plus what it is going to cost you to get this car fixed properly and buy something with a clean (not washed) title.

    2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD

  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 33,504
    edited January 8

    If it is not an Aspec, I’m afraid you have overpaid. Not by TOO much, though.

    It will depend on its current condition. If it truly is repaired right and looks spectacular right now, it would be fair at about $9500.

    I’m not surprised by the high repair cost. Yes, 2 doors, but the B pillar between them is a major structural component.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 33,504

    @nyccarguy said:
    I could find better things to do with $11,000 like light it on fire, give it to Bernie Madoff to invest, or pay an overwhelming majority of my yearly property taxes. In all seriousness, people have done well with rebuilt title cars. Since you say "I'm not a car or speed person I just want a little comfort and a lot of longevity out of it," I'd take the $11K, plus what it is going to cost you to get this car fixed properly and buy something with a clean (not washed) title.

    Post was a bit confusing, but the car is already fixed. The pics are from a year ago and the car has been driven 8k miles since the repairs.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,265
    nyccarguy said:

    I could find better things to do with $11,000 like light it on fire, give it to Bernie Madoff to invest, or pay an overwhelming majority of my yearly property taxes. In all seriousness, people have done well with rebuilt title cars. Since you say "I'm not a car or speed person I just want a little comfort and a lot of longevity out of it," I'd take the $11K, plus what it is going to cost you to get this car fixed properly and buy something with a clean (not washed) title.

    And as you mentioned, it's not $11k. It's $11k PLUS whatever work needs to be done, and you can bet there are a few issues. You can buy a pretty nice used vehicle with that money. When I bought my Kia (used) 4.5 years ago, I paid around $11k, same mileage, clean title, and I still have it. I wouldn't trade it for the hope that I could make an upscale brand salvage vehicle work for years.

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  • graphicguygraphicguy Member Posts: 14,014
    Setting aside pricing, it is fixed, right? If so, how does it drive?

    Personally, aside from cosmetics, I'd want to put it on a lift to see if any of the frame was "wonky". As others mentioned, air bags, electronics (which many times run in the floor), and just for giggles, I'd want to see the drivetrain tested (leaks, untoward noises, etc).

    But, if you've already bought it, all of this is a moot point.
    2024 Kia EV6 GT-Line AWD Long Range
  • mjfloyd1mjfloyd1 Member Posts: 3,670

    If repaired correctly, a vehicle with a rebuilt title is worth half of what a clean title vehicle is worth. Then you either take a beating at trade in or you drive it till the wheels fall off.

    With a side hit, I’d worry about the unibody “frame”.

  • NeedHelpRTitleNeedHelpRTitle Member Posts: 19
    I wasn't feeling this car once it came time to go look at it, that had a lot to do with noticing the inspection was due this month and the pain of getting an PPI done. Thanks everyone for the advice.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 33,504

    Appreciate you giving us an update. I hate to be left hanging.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S

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