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thanks for any help
So I have 2 '95 Blazers. My old one I've had for eons and although it's had some of the regular problems I like it very much. So I pick up another and it's throwing some codes but running good. They are P0326, P0441 and P1406. Now I know that 0326 is knock sensor performance and 0441 is no flow during evap purge cycle, but I'm not sure what 1406 is for. It's not in my haynes manual and I can't find much on the web for it. Some have said it's a bank 1 post cat O2 sensor thing.
Ok, I was changing the cap and rotor and noticed that some knuckle head broke off the rear stay for the dist cap screws. So I have 2 wood clamps on there. Could this set off the knock sensor? Or do these just go bad and need replacing? I'm not sure where it is if it needs replacing.
I don't know much about how the evap system works, but I heard there is a valve somewhere that can be replaced and also a canister. Otherwise this smoke test a shop can do. I just don't know where the valve and canister are located. Any ideas?
The 1406 code?
I guess I should add that the EGR valve was getting all gunked up with carbon pellets so I took the plenum off and cleaned it up real good and thoroughly cleaned the passages to and from the EGR. Then I put on a filtered gasket to stop any more pellets from getting stuck. I read somewhere that it could be that the IAC needs a cleaning too (?). I've run a bottle of seafoam through the tank and the intake and it idles very very smooth now.
Thanks..
O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
Probably in exhaust pipe just behind the converter.
1. Is this the sensor located on the exhaust pipe near the catalytic converter?
2. Is this difficult to replace?
3. Any tips to make the job easier (special tools, etc.)
Thanks
Lance J
If you have a set of ramps you can drive up on them for easier access. I usually don't use them and don't have a lot of trouble if I suck my belly in.
any suggestions on what I need to check?
thanks
32-egr circuit
33-map sensor
35-iac (idle air control) valve
45-o2 sensor (rich fuel mixture)
sounds like you should have a performance problem. If i could suggest... IF truck is running o.k. right now, clear codes out, drive for a day, recheck your codes. you have so much going on there with the codes, and you don't know if they all came about at the same time, or not. maybe one or two have been present for weeks,months,etc. just disconnect neg. side of battery for minute or so to clear codes. then drive it for a day, making sure you start and stop engine(keystarts) approx. dozen times. have friend check codes again. it's possible that one major problem kicked other codes on, in response to the original problem(i hope your able to follow my dribble this would be the least expensive way, rather than replacing all that shows bad. it's possible not all sensors,etc. are bad...
i hope i helped.
good luck
The SES or CES lamp will flash a 12 (flash, pause, flash flash) three times to indicate that the ECM is in diagnostic mode. After a pause, the lamp will flash the numeric code for any faults stored. It will flash each code three times, then go back to flashing the '12" code.
Any idea how to figure out a problem with a heated circuit related to oxygen sensor bank 2 sensor 1. I was told it's one of the white wires but I don't have a clue as to how to check something like that and there isn't any space to chase the wire and see where it goes (that I can see). Or, maybe someone has had this problem?
It started when I went through some water that was up to the doors. The CEL blinked a few times then shut off and two days later it came on and hasn't gone off except when I cancelled it after installing the o2 sensor.
Help!
Thanks, Rick
PO300,PO135,PO172
I changed the heat sensor the service light still apprears any suggestions
I had some codes come up and i replace the smog pump and the drivers side check valve for the secondary air injection system. the valve burned up and so did the hoses so i disconnected everything until i got a new check valve. the pump was fine besides some debris which i cleaned out, but i hard wired it to check n it was still working. the day after i fixed everything i was driving it and the check engine light started flashing. i pulled off and shut the blazer off, turned it on n it stayed on. it kept flashing when i did over 30 mph or 1500 rpm.
the codes i pulled were:
PO102: mass airflow sensor circuit low frequency
PO141: O2 sensor bank 1 sensor 2
PO300: random misfire
PO410: secondary air injection system
PO463: Fuel level sensor 1 circuit high voltage
B2961: key in ignition circuit malfunction
CO265: EBCM motor relay circuit
CO245: EBCM Control valve circuit
CO246: "
CO251: "
CO252: "
any ideas where to start? what is necessary right now and what i can hold off on? im broke and this is my only vehicle also if you have an idea of how much the parts will cost that would e helpful.
Thank you.
THANK YOU IN ADVANCE
FOR YOUR HELP
2. Located on the front of the engine. Go to Autozone online and you can look up the part and see what it looks like.
3. Easy repair.
I have checked fuses and replaced mir 3amp fuse that should run the tailgate and door lock and power mirrors as per chevy but still no go.
key fob will not open up tail gate as well.
any ideas ?
thanks
Doug
A bad relay can also cause a 200+ ma parasitic power drain on the battery even when the ignition key is off. If the vehicle sits for a week or two without being started, the power drain could completely discharge the battery, especailly if the battery is over 18 months old.
1996 Blazer LT 4.3 190,000 miles & still runs good
P0753: Transmission solenoid related. How is the transmission shifting? Could be anything from a shorted harness to the tranny to a bad shift solenoid.
p0753 - Corrected by replacing both solenoids in trans.
$54 in of parts & $314 in labor to to pass emmisions test.
Go figure.....
We put a new fuel pump on it about 1-1/2 yrs ago but the oil changes haven't been kept up for the last year or so. The check engine light has been on for a long time but never did anything about it because it seemed to run fine. We are short on vehicles and I need help. Hoping it's not the spider injector. Can anyone give me direction?
With the engine cold, just pull the thermostat housing off without draining anything. You will have to remove part of the throttle cable brackets to do this. Once the bracket is clear, pull the housing, swap the thermostat, and put it right back together. You won't lose but about a cup of coolant. You will need to have the SES light reset. Autozone will scan the code for you, and then hand you the reader to reset the code. I think for liability reasons they cannot reset the code for you.
Is the engine warming properly now? As in going to 195F (90C) within a short period (<5 mins)
Had a complete tune up last month and soon after the service engine light popped up. I took in back in to the dealer and they changed my thermostat. Now I'm getting a PO410 code. I didn't take it in for service yet - thought I would try this forum first.
Hope someone somewhere knows - I really like my blazer but I have already replaced the trans. which set me back big time. Now it's just general maintenance but the engine light code my be another big expense.
Thank in advance for your input. VGK