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Volkswagen Beetle Engine Problems

Every now and then the car has these sort of "hiccups", where I feel the fuel isn't getting to the motor sufficiently and the car begins to have spurts of speed and then will cut off and then on again. At the beginning, the motor would just shut off and as soon as I would turn it back on it would be fine, but now its getting out of control; I'll be driving and all of a sudden it will feel like some one pinched the fuel line and I will instantly loose 10 MPH and then it will go back and forth. I notice this happens usually when I have the AC on (set to a low or 1). I have taken it to 2 different VW dealerships and they have both said the same thing, and have found nothing wrong with the car. I am going crazy because no one can tell me what the hell it is or what the F$#% I should do. I hope someone could help me in this matter, PLEASE.


P.S. Nothing has been done to the car, and has all of its stock parts


  • kinmainekinmaine Posts: 1
    That EXACTLY describes what my 2000 New Beetle was doing. I couldn't get anyone to believe that it was doing that--it never did it with a mechanic driving it so they said it was ME! >I'm a woman, so of course I don't know anything< Finally I said to my mechanic (NOT a VW place--been raped enough there--)'I think it feels like a clogged fuel line.' So they replaced the fuel filter. The sad part is that while doing that, somehow the gas tank bracketry broke, and it turned into a $400 fix. It DID fix the problem you described. Maybe that's your problem...a new fuel filter. PS: Now I have electrical/wiring/alarm problems, but thats for another post.

    Hope that helps.

    Kin >a woman <
  • mbeck75mbeck75 Posts: 4
    My 2002 Turbo S is doing the same thing. I've replaced the fuel filter and spark plugs twice in the last year and it has not remedied the problem. For about a year it would just stall like you mentioned ... now it stalls, blows a puff of black smoke, and then picks up speed again. There is no rhyme or reason to it and NO one can find what's wrong with it. Mechanics think I'm crazy because they cannot replicate the problem either. Good luck and let me know if you find out what's wrong with yours.
  • blkrnbwblkrnbw Posts: 3
    Trying to do someresearch on own here until car goes to shop on Monday. I won't bore everyone with past problems I have had as they seem to line up with many others on this board. Now onto the actual problem.
    Car will turnover, fire up and immediatley shut down. No diag lights or inidcators. Getting fuel as I hear the main pump humm for a second when the door is opened. After start atempt there is a continuous high pitch whine sound from under the hood. Not load and would have probrably missed it if hood was down. This sound lasts for 5-10 mins after key is out and doors closed.
    One ONE start only I get the three beep signal but could not reproduce (just to keep me guessing I guess). Checked oil thinking MAYBE it was very low and a sensor would not allow it to start. That did nothing.... The high pitch sound that I still hear seesm to be running enough to be draining the battery as well. Any ideas?

  • blkrnbwblkrnbw Posts: 3
    Getting it towed to dealer in AM and letting them have a go at it. The problem I am seeing is a little different than some of the replies (although we are all in same srewy boat). The car will start for a couple seconds (about 2) then die, prssing accelerator when startign starts to rev it when it starts then dies. I hear the pump spin up when I open the door, it sounds like it primes the line then stops (normal behavior). After I try to start it I hear some pump or something electrical running from under the manifold, makes a whining kind of sound, and after 15 minutes had not shut off. I know a couple times it finally did turn off after 30+ minutes.
    Another interesting point is the fuel feed lines (coming from behind the coolant overflow) I believe these are 4 of then that plug in (so to speak0 vertically, smaller plastic pipe inside of them (hope that is good enough description) sem to be out a little and not plugged in tight, and pressing down does not push them in and lock or stay down in any way. When pushed or slightly moved I hear the motor spin up to prime the fuel line again.
    I will say this is another in a ongoing HUGE amount of repair work the car has needed. Other problems include one of the automatic fans completly breaking part inside the engine compartment (how I dunno). Ful pump (the one in the tank) once, O2 sensor X 2, Sunroof coming off tracks when closing andjamming. Driver window breaking aprt in door when closing window (not I was not closing it with a hammer). AC going to warm when engine idles for more than 30 seconds (may be due to the fan mentioned above allowing it to overheat and take damage). Thats all I remember off top of head, but there is 4-5 more major problems I have dealt with. I am thinking righjt now about getting it fixed and trading in on a non VW car. If not for extended warrantly would have had it sitting in d5riveway since I could not afford to have all the work done.

  • blkrnbwblkrnbw Posts: 3
    So dealer got the car today and they ran their little code tool and said it was the (forget what they called it) but basically cuts the car off in the event it is beign stolen. They heard no sound from the front, blah blah. So I asked if there were any other error codes, nope that was all. But yet I did (just once through this) got the 3 beeps and EPC light on, I think that is anti lock brakes. They want to keep it overnight. What the $#$* that will do I dunno, I kept it overnight also. Anyway maybe more later.

  • hottaco69hottaco69 Posts: 2
    Just to let you know, the problem was finally discovered. What happened was that the fuel pump in the gas tank was corroded. so all the fragments where passing through the fuel line and clogging the passage of fuel. I hope that this helps.

  • I bought my dream car a 2003 cyber green turbo color concept car. I loved the car for about a 1 1/2 and then the check engine light comes on. My boyfriend works for a car dealership (not vw) and hooks it up to the scanner to see whats wrong. Well my engine is knocking! I was so pissed! I could tell just before the engine light came on that my car started to feel different when I was driving it, it was more sluggish.I know that I could have had the engine replaced or fixed, but why bother a car should not do that at only 25,000. I traded that pos in on a 2004 4wd toyota matrix and am happy to say at 40,000 miles my car could not run any better. I should have never got a vw, I should have just stuck with toyota. :mad:
  • sylvia61sylvia61 Posts: 5
    i have had my 99 vw for 8 years problems began with the brake light on the trunk.had to replace it-50.00. then a headlight went out-62.00.then 3 weeks later the other headloght went out-62.00 more.then, it had 56,000 miles on it and a o-2 sensor went bad.i drove it for 6 months with the check engine light on. it was time for inspection so i had it replaced-200.00 more.the man said to drive it 30 miles so it would program in on the computer. i drove it home11 miles,the next morning i left out of the yard and drove 1 mile and the check engine light was on again.i was has to be inspected in 4 days and it wont pass with that light taking it back on monday and i hope its not the other sensor gone out,cause i sure dont have another 200.00 to spend on it.maybe i just didnt drive it the whole 30 miles to let it program in.just wish me the best.i dont advise any one to buy this car unless you have a lot of money to spend on repairs.when im able im going to get rid of mine. you sure dont get what you paid for them.they are not as trustworthy as the older vw, like the 70s model. :( if youre thinking of buying one, dont because the repair bill on them will scare you if you have to take them to the dealer. i was lucky i found a foreign car repairman who treats me right with service charges, but ss vw charge you twice more and do things wrong. just remember the new vw are a pain and a money grabber!
  • cokidscokids Posts: 4
    I am the owner of a 2000 turbo. I've had every problem in the book except this one...I HOPE! I debated whether to even read this afraid it would jinx me and I'd start having the problem. I think that VW's strategy to stay afloat is to produce a fleet of lemons so that they can rake in the dough on repairs! I've supported them for 6 years. Should I sell? I have had the gas cover problem, 2 ox. sensors replaced, window switches replaced, radio fixed, headlights replaced, and more than I can remember!! What's with this little car! Come on, VW! You are losing customers or don't you care??!!

    Anyone looked into a recourse to these problems? This treatment of customers should be illegal! Any other product that acted this way for so many customers would no longer be for sale!

    I called VW a couple weeks ago and they could do nothing to help me despite having a check engine light on right after having service done! I can barely turn the GD thing off and on again without a problem! ARE YOU LISTENING, VW?
  • cokidscokids Posts: 4
    ....your ad at the top of the page says! What it fails to say is that the less is "less reliability!" My first car was a Beetle and it ran til the body fell apart! Come on! Surely VW can do better. Make less more and make that little sucker MORE RELIABLE! I'd even go back to a heater that didn't work to have a car that would run without check engine lights all the time! Give anyone with an unreliable vehicle a guarantee of free service if a problem occurs within a month of an earlier repair!! This is getting ridiculous! You should be ashamed of yourselves!
  • sylvia61sylvia61 Posts: 5
  • Hi there,

    I need some help here about my 2001 VW beetle 2000cc.
    I'm having a problem within the air flow, I tried to scan it using my scan pro, and its shows:

    Trouble code 16795
    Secondary air injection system : Incorrect flow detected.

    Right now I dont know what I should do with this
    problem.I tried to erase it but it still show up.

    Can somebody tell me what is the problem and which stuff causing it? And please tell me too how to resolve it.Or it could be better if you can explain to me clearly. with a picture or what else.

    Thank you so much, and really2 appreciate it.

  • emiliobbemiliobb Posts: 1
    The Check Engine Light was on in my 01 Beetle GLX , after visually inspecting the engine I found that the vacuum
    hose(?) that comes off the main air intake was cracked/melted(gummy)and the little vacuum hose that connects to the fuel rail was also melted and craked, I sealed them with tape and the Check Engine Light went off and the car was working OK until yesterday that the CEL came on again and I found out that the rest off the hose cracked too, What are the names of those hoses? :cry: , and any help on how too replace them, Thanks in advance!
  • jasmith52jasmith52 Posts: 457
    I am not certain which hoses you are referring to. However take the hoses to a good auto parts store. They should be able to fix you up with a suitable replacement hose.
  • ronwechronwech Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 New Beetle w/5-speed manual.
    It has a 5 cylinder engine with Turbo.
    It is not a Turbo S.
    I have not been able to find a listing of this combination and I would like to know more about specs and performance. Is this a standard model or something special? Where can I find detailed information?
  • babyd_05babyd_05 Posts: 1
    Hey I've recently been having some problems with my beetle, my check engine light went on almost a week ago and about after 3 days it turned off and now it's turned on again. Everytime I start my car it starts to make a sputter sound but is fine right after my car is warmed up. I'm taking my car in on Monday to get the spark plugs changed. Does anyone have any ideas to what the problem is? AND I also wanted to know how much it'd cost to get my spark plugs changed at a VW dealership? Thanks!
  • Engine has sat for years want to start it without any damage. What should I do.
  • I have a 99 beetle that my 16 year old daughter drives, got it about a year ago and havd had some problems.Mass air flow has been replaced, new plugs and wires, fuel filter as well. But lately she stated that the mpg has not been too good, i drove it to work one day which is a 50 miles round trip and it definitely has gotten worse. My fhas a good computer and hook it up, weird thing, while idle it shows that it is going 91 mph. Also the rpm's seem to be higher than usually, does anyone know the proper rpm for going around 60mph. ALso has anyone heard of this problem before and have any solution for my problem? Thanks.
  • Sounds soooo familiar! I was tired of my big ole' Highlander so I traded it in for a 2003 Beetle. Right away the turn signals started screwing up, blinking too fast. I took it in the same week and they replaced the hazzard switch ( or something like that). Fine. Next day, same problem. A few days later the check engine light comes on, stays on. Next time I turn on the car, no warning lights. The seats started to really hurt my back and I didn't like that I was having electrical issues with a car with only 38,000 miles on it. So, I took it back and got a 07 Toyota Rav4 instead, lol! It has 3,000 miles on it and I had my personal mechanic check it out to this time. Live and learn. The Beetle was fun to drive but I think I'll stick with Toyotas now. I also have a '72 Bug which runs great! :P
  • We bought an 03 new beetle for our daughter because she was getting ready to go to college and we needed a vehicle for her. We are the 3rd owner. I met the 2nd owners Mom by chance and learned that they took it to a local oil change shop and that was the only maintence done on the car. Ok no problem I thought. We bought the car from a local Ford dealership, they had to replace the tires, they were bald, and reluctantly replaced the battery which died in the parking lot while we went shopping and I had left my cell phone charging in it. I only received 1 master key, nothing else. This is when I discovered the price of owing a Bug. We were told that the car needed a maintence that was supposed to have been done when we did not even own the car (about $500) the wire to the "fuse box" was melting and needed to be replaced or the car would just stop working. Well last night the check engine light came on the way home I told her to pull over and looked at the engine (I checked it right lol) there seemed to be some kind of liquid coming from a hose but did not appear to be leaking too bad so we drove on home. She said the light would blink when she went over 40mph. It seems this is a common problem from what I'm reading here. What do we do, I've only been paying for the car since Aug, and she really loves the car and between college money and car problems money is getting tighter. Any suggestion. Oh and I can't get the car in until Jan 2nd. thanks.
  • Bummer. I got rid of my VW and got a Rav4. German cars are a blast to drive but when something goes wrong, $$$! The funnest car I ever had was a 1973 BMW 2002, but it always needed something repaired....Maybe your daughter needs to get a p/t job to help with the bills?
    good luck! :confuse:
  • adeeadee Posts: 1
    I have recently bought a 02 1.6 Beetle. After the MOT was done the Traction light came on (triangle with arrow around it) and the Engine Check light is also on. I have heard that if you overfill the oil the ECL will come on. Is this true? I am taking it tomorrow so would like to get some idea of what could be the issue before I go. If anyone can help with both light issues that will be great!
  • My daughter's 2004 NBC has had numerous problems, of course out of warranty, and Volkswagen never has the parts. Now the oil pressure warning light is coming on at low RPMs, has oil, is this a common problem? We no there are two oil pressure sensors of course they only have one in stock. Any ideas, disgusted in Alabama.
  • I have a 2001 Beetle, and the EPC light has gone on no less than 8 times in the last 6 months. Whenever it goes on, I can't go above 30 MPH. I've taken it to the dealer every time, and they fix it long enough for me to drive it home and have the same problem a few days later. Now the dealer's had it for 2 weeks and have finally admitted that they don't know what's wrong with it.

    Has anyone else had this problem?
  • My 07 Beetle has been stalling at high speeds. I have been on the freeway going 55+ mph and my car suddenly tries to stop as if it's not getting fuel. Once, it completely stopped running, I pulled over and it immediately started again. Other times it will just act as if it will stop and doesn't. Has anyone had this problem?? Cause?
  • I know i'm not much of a car guy, but i took the cover off the engine to see if i can replace the spark plugs and i can't figure out how to get to them. Is there a special tool i need? How does the dealership replace the plugs? I hope they don't have to take the manifold off to get to it, that would be a pain in the [non-permissible content removed].


  • Yes! It started for me around 70K miles? happens typically when the tank is around a 1/4 full or so. did anyone know the cause?
  • edale528edale528 Posts: 2
    I own a 2002 VW New Beetle TDI and will soon be moving from Austin, Texas to Montana. I'm trying to decide if keeping the Beetle is smart, or if I need to go with something with AWD. Also, my little beetle has been a little touchy about starting in cold weather. Can anyone tell me how these lovely little cars handle really bad winter weather? (Way below freezing, icy roads, blizzards, packed snow roads, etc). Thanks!
  • edale528edale528 Posts: 2
    Can anyone hazard a guess as to why my 2002 New Beetle TDI won't start? I replaced the battery because it started the other day after a jump, but that didn't do the trick. Now it has been at the mechanic's all week and he still hasn't figured out what is wrong. He is concerned that it may be the Fuel Injection Pump, but really wants to find something else because that pump is so expensive. Any ideas? The car goes lublublublublublub but just won't make that extra step to turn over. I did run Biodiesel in it last summer, but stopped when it started to get cold. Thanks!
  • rparrisrparris Posts: 2
    I used to blame my car's electrical issues on being a first year car. I have a 98 beetle and it seems to have some similar issues to others that I've read about. My car has been stalling lately; when it tries to start it turns over but then idles until it shuts off. Also, another day it wouldn't even turn all the way over. After I walked home and then my husband came home and drove me to check out the car, it started.
    Our local mechanic can read the codes; he's reset the codes and then the car doesn't stall any more. That happened last week, the car was fine for a few days and then it wouldn't start again. This has happened several months ago; the mechanic resets the codes and it's fine for a while. I need to find out why the codes are screwing up though. This isn't rocket science. Either something electronic needs to be replaced or.....
    Also my engine light is on all the time, but the car is fine; I just make sure it always has the proper amount of fluids. Thanks for any advice!
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