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Toyota Celica GT - Troubleshooting

ecoichecoich Member Posts: 1
Not sure if anyone out there can help me out with this or not, but I'm trying to understand what's happened to my 2001 Celica GT the last couple of days.

Here's the rundown,
I noticed the car needed an oil change, so yesterday, against my better judgement, I went to one of those franchise oil-change places.

So last night, about 8-10 hours after I'd had my oil changed, by oil light goes on! It's intermittent at first, but within minutes it's on permanently. Shorly after this, the engine cuts out entirely, my battery and check engine lights go on, my RPM's drop to zero and I lose my power steering. I pull over turn the ignition off, give it a sec and start it up again, it turns over as it normally would and runs pretty much as usual, but still with the oil light on, I begin to drive, and in another minute the exact same thing, no jerking, no jumping, just the engine cuts out. The only consistency I notice is that it seems to occur when I'm changing gears, at the point where my clutch is all the way down.

After a while of repeating this cycle, I finally get it home, pop the hood and check the oil, it seems to be fine. There's a slight smell of burning but nothing overwhelming, and definitely no smoke coming off the engine.

I know I'll end up taking it to the service center where they'll tell me what's wrong, but I'd like to get at least some idea as to what it could be. I prefer to be somewhat informed.

Anyone out there know enough about these cars to throw any hypotheses out?



  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    Maybe it went into limp-home mode? That would happen if the computer detected a major emissions meltdown - maybe the bozos left the old oil filter gasket on there and the leaking oil ran back along the engine screwing up sensor readouts for the computer?

    Either way, don't EVER restart your engine (or continue driving in the first place) with the oil light on! That is just begging for a major repair bill.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • lesteralestera Member Posts: 1
    Well i bought this old used car and i really love it, but my problem is that when i place it in 5th gear it pops out. It only does it in 5th not 1st or 3rd. there is pressure that pushes the gear out not slippage. What my problem? can anyone help me. To give you more insight my cousin who is a mechanic thought it might be a spring loose. it was not. I am not really mecahnicaly inclined. i just know that after five months of holding it in gear on the highway it getting old
  • demoniodemonio Member Posts: 1
    hey i have this lilttle problem, ive been fixing it from ground up but the car seems to shake when turned on, im not sure what it any suggestions please let me know thanx
  • rolfzrolfz Member Posts: 7
    1. Timing problem
    2. Runs on 3 cylinders
    3. Spark plug wire is shorting out
    4. Engine mounts are lose ...........
  • allsaintsallsaints Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Toyota Celica. Since September there has been a clunking sound when driving in low gear and also whilst changing gear. I took it to my Toyota dealer and a mechanic who has driven the car heard the noise himself but says he cannot find anything wrong. Basically I have been told that there is nothing about to fall off, nothing loose so they can't do anything about it. Has anyone else had a similar problem???
  • cavvjefecavvjefe Member Posts: 3
    I have a 95 Celica GT and your problem sounds exactly like what was happening to mine. Believe it or not, the sound was from a loose rear brake caliper. I had it in the shop for front end work and mentioned it to my mechanic and he solved the problem. It might be the same for you.
  • cavvjefecavvjefe Member Posts: 3
    I have a 95 Celica GT and the oil light came on this morning. I checked the oil and to my surprise there was no oil on the dip stick. I added 4.5QTS of oil. Now I have the usual couple of small oil spots in my driveway but by no means enough to account for 4 QTS. The car doesn't burn oil either. Has anyone heard of this with Celicas? I'm wondering if something isn't wrong inside the engine. I drove to work with no problems.
  • kkaufmankkaufman Member Posts: 2
    i guess i'm the only one here that has NO problem with their car, i bought it certified used and for the past 7 years it has given me no problems .
  • kkaufmankkaufman Member Posts: 2
    it is a jan. 2000 celica, i guess it was one of the first cars out before they started to figure out that was too good so on later cars they started to put sub standard parts on them i guess. 'cause i hear alot of horror storys about these cars.
  • cavvjefecavvjefe Member Posts: 3
    I'm not finding fault with my car. I love it. I bought it used, it wasn't certified and that made me a little uneasy but all in all it's a good car. I think the previous owner sold it so that they didn't have to put the money into the front end. :sick: They kind of let it go and I had to have wheel bearings replaced all four, a new axle.
  • dddellingerdddellinger Member Posts: 1
    A classic dumb move, courtesy of a good friend who I'm trying to help: He hooked the battery up backwards, and was actually able to get the car to run (he claims). Now, with the battery hooked up correctly, the cluster, daytime running lights, radio, turn signals, and some other things do not work. The car will start and run, but it will not shift out of park because of the interlock. The headlights will work if turned on with the control stalk.
    I've checked all the fuses, and they are good.
    Are there any circuit breakers or fusible links in the vehicle, somewhere other than in the fuse centers under hood and under dash?
  • celicagirlcelicagirl Member Posts: 1
    1st diag the dealership told me it was my MAF SENSOR, so I put some fuel injector cleaner in the fuel line...light goes off. Then it's back on after about 300 miles take it back in to the dealership to get the fuel injectors replaced then they tells me diag code P0420 my Catalytic Converter. What is the actual problem?

    Now the engine light will not go off and when I first start the car up in the morning it spits out a cloud of smoke and there is some black ash type material (just a little bit) that comes out of the tail pipes also...but only when I first start it up. I can drive it all day no problem but the light doesn't go off which makes me think it's not the fuel injectors....any advise...I need help trouble shooting this issue. :sick:
  • mctcmctc Member Posts: 4
    I just rebuilt my engine and all my electrical are hooked up correctly and my vacuum lines are all in place according to the diag. When my engine is running it has a high pitch squeal and I cannot figure out what it is. It sounds like it is coming from under the intake manifold it is EFI. Any thoughts or suggestions?
  • peterpan99peterpan99 Member Posts: 65
    Hi Celica girl,

    You did not say what model and what year. All models that use premium gas should run on premium gas only. If not, a lot of the sensors and the catalytic converter will malfunction.

    Buy an engine scanner in eBay for about $30. Switch off the check engine light.

    Rescan your engine. If a sensor failure keeps coming back, replace that sensor.

    If the catalytic converter fault keeps coming back, time to replace the converter.

    Toyota's engines are very simple and logical. Use your head and dont be scared. You will find the problems with some thinking. The dealers' mechanics use the same scanner and may not be as smart as you.
  • jmb8jmb8 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 Toyota Celica GT.

    Its has a ruff idle when in park, when it first gets going it has a rough start off. But seems to run fine once on the road.

    I did have an engine light come on, but the code tells me its a normal code.

    I did add some fuel cleaner and a fuel injector cleaner to see if its helps but nothing has helped.

    Any advice.
  • aventurineaventurine Member Posts: 1
    I'm sure I'll get several resounding answers on this issue, but here's my problem: I have a 2000 Celica GT with 104,000 miles on it. It's never had any problems and has always had regular maintenance. Within the past year, it started consuming oil at an incredible rate. I'm dumping at least 2 quarts a month into it. There's no noticeable change in the exhaust, though, nor any other problems/symptoms of any kind. I mentioned this to my regular mechanic, and he said, "Eh, the car's 8 years old, it has 100k miles on it, it's just using more oil. Cars use more oil as they age."

    That was a year ago. Yesterday I mentioned it to a good friend of mine who immediately said to trade the car in as quickly as possible, before the engine goes. He had the same 1.8L in his MR2, and by 50k miles the car was burning through oil like nothing and eventually had a bad engine mount. Luckily, his car was under warranty. Mine is not. He said Toyota knows about the problem and corrected it in 2002, but ignores prior issues.

    I've tried to do :confuse: research online and this oil consumption issue is apparently well known on the 2000-01 GTs? One website even said there was a recall for this problem in the UK?

    So I just need some advice on how serious this is, how likely my car is develop it (or is already developing it), and what to do with the car. I don't want to sell the car - I bought a Toyota planning to have it for 200k+ miles. But if I'm facing an inevitable major engine problem that'll drop it's value from $5000 to $200, I'd rather trade it in now.

    What do you all think?

    Oh, side question - I'm thinking of replacing it with a 2008 Nissan Altima Coupe. Any opinions on that car?

  • ofc_eckenrodeofc_eckenrode Member Posts: 1
    does any one know if a manual transmission needs to be split to replace the output shaft bearing??
  • celica861celica861 Member Posts: 1
    i recently bought a 1986 celica gt it began to over heat i replaced radiator(which did have a crack) water pump (which was leaking ) and then thermostat it still over heats did i blow a head? and what other options do i have besides engine swap?
  • sezza217sezza217 Member Posts: 2
    Hello everyone,
    I own a 1990 Toyota Celica, which i love to bits!! No real big work done on it as of yet but was planning on starting to spend some money on it very soon. Only problem being I recently had a collision and people have been telling me once it is fixed I should try to get rid of it. :cry:
    The crash not being my fault (someone ran a red light and hit me) has resulted in the car having damage to the front left passenger side of the car and thats all i know as of yet. I was hit at about 80kms/hr.

    Anyone have any thoughts as to what I should do with it once it is fixed and or if once it is fixed it will be the same as before the collision?

    Any thoughts would be much appreacited
  • fantillonfantillon Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1990 Toyota Celica GT-S w/ Electric Windows & Sun Roof quit working the other day, anyone have any suggestions as to how I can troubleshoot this situation?
  • dalicea97dalicea97 Member Posts: 15
    :sick: What could be causing my car not to start? :cry: Currently my starter,battery, alternator, ignition connections grounds are good so what could be the problem could it be a certain relay fuse or which one? They have been checked and also my timing belt was checked but it has been difficult trying to determine what is the problem. It seems electrical but I am so confused and I do not want to loose my celica they I have been keeping up with the maintenance promptly. Could someone possibly give me advise on how to go about resolving my celicas starting problem or maybe a part or what can fix my starting problem? :cry:
    Thank you,
    Deb :confuse:
  • celicafancelicafan Member Posts: 5
    My 1996 Celica did the same a couple of years ago. Would start sometime and would go totally dead on me. The dealer asked me to change the battery, which I did. Worked for a week (probably the new battery did the trick)... then stopped again. Once I got stranded in a rest area on the highway; the car wouldn't start. Well, I had to try a non-technical method... (normally not recommended). No, I did not push it. Fortunately, I was parked on a slope, so I shifted into neutral and let the car pick up some momentum, (in reverse, of course). With the ignition on, I engaged the reverse gear. The car started up. I reached home. Had a restless night, with multiple nightmares... First thing in the morning, went to Advance Auto, got a new STARTER, and replaced it myself (hour and half). The car starts like new till this day, not-withstanding its age (and miles:194,000).
  • fantillonfantillon Member Posts: 2
    Took my Toyota to our Mechanic, he found that the wire broke at the door hinge, door locks & Windows are working again
  • dalicea97dalicea97 Member Posts: 15
    :sick: With my 1994 Celica going dead I have been having restless nights with nightmares.Not withstanding its age( and miles 145,540). And I have always taken care of preventive care of my Celica. It is very heartwrenching :cry: . After your informative response because you could relate with my situation it seems that I may the same problem that you had with your 1996 Celica. I have not wasted anytime and I spoke to a 23 yr Toyota experience Master Tech Mechanic and he told me about the headlight test to do. I made sure the connections to the battery and the engine grounds are good. I made sure the battery is fully charged. I turned the headlights on and try to start the car. The lights stayed brite except when I attempted to start the car the lights dimmed way down. That mechanic told me about the contacts in the starter are known to go bad. Also my Toyota advisor told me about the need for a new starter(mind you my current starter is over 8 years old) So I have to think positive about it. Well today Wed. 10:00am A toytota recommeded tow truck company will be taking the celica to the toyota dealer for repair. I will keep you informed of my situation.
    I greatly appreciate your helpful inforrmation which helped me sleep well last night.
    Thank you,
  • tmunroe1tmunroe1 Member Posts: 1
    The car runs and starts great, however after it warms up it wont start for 15-20 minutes. After it starts again it runs great again.

    Any Ideas?
  • dalicea97dalicea97 Member Posts: 15
    Well after my 1994 starting issue problem it happened to be the ECU (computer)so I had it replaced and it starts and runs good. I was told it may have been the distrubutor. I do not know much but I had to get it diagnosed at the toyota and they replaced the ECU (computer).
    I would suggest maybe get a diagnose at Advance discount store since it starts or the dealer.

    Take Care,
  • biggs8741biggs8741 Member Posts: 1
    i just purchased a 2001 toyota celica gt and a couple months ago i noticed my trunk light wasn't working so of course i changed the bulb and still nothing and just today i changed it again figuring it was a bad bulb but still nothing and i checked the fuse panels and cant find a fuse designated for the trunk all my other systems are working that i can tell. i know sometimes they tie the fuse with more than one system can you please help
    ben :cry:
  • nsivakumarnsivakumar Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Toyota Celica GT with 100,000 miles on it. Since last week, the check engine light has been turned ON.

    I checked the GAS cap & its closed well as hinted within the manual.

    I went to FIRESTONE to see what could be the issue. They were charging $100 to run the diagnosis alone.

    The car has been in perfect shape with no issues so far. I would like to know what could be the possible issues & where can I go to get them solved ?
  • CHARMON1972CHARMON1972 Member Posts: 1

  • celicafancelicafan Member Posts: 5
    I have had the exact same problem. Car runs great. I get 30 city and 37 highway miles... what more can one ask of a non-hybrid. But it drinks oil like Craig Ferguson in an Irish Pub. Hey, may be that is the Secret of my car. It mixes oil and burns it up in just the right ratio... keeps the engine running smooth, no smoke, no leaks, occasionally when idling, you can "smell" the burning oil. I am not letting anyone open up a good working machine to change the gaskets. Hey, I just have to add a quart every Sunday. And if I travel long distance (I drive from Baltimore to New York and back the same day, on a tankful of gas, and have some left over), I just top of the oil when I park it. Don't worry, it passes Emissions Test too. I have changed the spark plugs after 40,000 miles. Unless the engine just falls apart by itself (in 20 years or so), I would just stick to routine maintenance and keep driving. Hi-ho Silver, away!
  • rogue22rogue22 Member Posts: 2
    I have been having the same problem with oil as CHARMON1972 and it is aggravating to keeping having to put oil in my Celica. There is no smoke and all the fluids are not taking on is it ok for her to be drinking that much oil? The problem became noticed after I did an oil change, and drove 9 hours out to where I go to college. Any ideas as to what is going on or proof that it is ok for her to drinking that much oil?
  • celicafancelicafan Member Posts: 5
    As I said before, I still have to put in a quart of oil every sunday. I have got 204,000 miles on the Celica. I drive to my two jobs every day, 100 miles a day. Once a month I drive from West of Baltimore to New York. I repeat: I get 30 miles a gallon normal, and more on the highway. What more proof anyone needs... Celica is a great car. Maybe it should be linked with the Bunny that "Goes On and On and On..." ;)
    My friends want me to get rid of it or take to to a mechainic to get the "problem" fixed... Yeah, like I went to the dentist to get my teeth cleaned, and he loosened them up so bad, I have to keep going every four to six months or al the teeth are going to come off. Man, I regret the day I set foot in a dentist's office... just so I could use the insurance money. But that is another story...
  • diazcruzdiazcruz Member Posts: 2
    I have seen this problem with several brands fof cars, increase oil compsuption and no smoking or leake. Check the radiator water for trails of oil and the oil cap for signs of water. white wax ( sign of contamination of oil due to water). If you find either of the signs or both then your problem most likely is the head gasket.
  • diazcruzdiazcruz Member Posts: 2
    In most cars you need to bleed the system in order to remove the air form the lines or it will overheat regrdless the new parts. Need to to turn the heater on while filling the radiator in order to bleed the air out. In sone cars there is a bleeding screw either on top of the radiator or close to the thermostad housing. Hope this helps
  • bionictonybionictony Member Posts: 2
    The oil consumption problem is on early models of the toyota 1zz-fe engines. anywhere from 98-02. The toyota corollas and geo prism has this problem also. it is a piston and piston ring problem. It's the way they were designed early on. the only way is to either replace the entire engine with one from a 2003+ corolla or replace with newer piston rings and pistons.
  • 01celica01celica Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Celica GT and it seems to be using 1 quart every 500-700 miles. On the hwy it seems to consumer more when driving over 75 MPH. In town, the car consumes less oil. It has the 1zz-fe engine. I've owned it since 75,000 miles and it now has 99,000. I have black oil specs on my bumper so I know it is coming out but it doesn't smoke or leak. At 80,000 miles I had the catalytic converter replaced under warranty. I get 31 MPG in town and 34 on the highway. I will seafoam the engine sometime this summer and see if consumption changes. I've used high mileage oil and that may last slightly longer but not much if any. I figure I need fewer oil changes since I replenish so much oil. I figure I will just keep keep adding oil. My guess is I will need to replace another catalytic converter after 75,000 more miles and the O2 sensors. The cost of that service at the dealer was $350. When gas prices go up, I have no problem trading the good mileage for a little extra oil use. Thanks for yet another confirmation that others have this problem.
  • jkonjkon Member Posts: 3
    I am looking for a 2003 Celica GTS service manual. Can anyone help please?

  • broncofan1broncofan1 Member Posts: 1
    hello, i had a family member drive my 86 celica from california to montana it made it half way and the top of the radiator blew up. it had no problem water was full no warning at all. i check every thing water pump thermostat cant seem to find any thing wrong. if anyone has any ideas please let me know thanks
  • lugenlugen Member Posts: 2
    It started in the last few weeks where I press hard on the bake and it feels like something gives. The car stops, but it is weird, I am thinking the ABS is acting up, but no lights etc. If I shut the car off and coast and stop it feels fine.

    Any ideas out there?

  • worthy1worthy1 Member Posts: 1
    1992 Cleica GT. Just replaced Alternator. Just porior to replacing noticed low beam worked OK but high beam and fog lamps while on low beam stopped working. Figured replacing alternator which was bad would also fix. Well it didn't. Checked No.2 fuze block and headligh relay. Seem OK. Any ideas?

  • joelax10joelax10 Member Posts: 1
    My wife has this same car and also has the check engine light on (could mean many things), however i took it to get emissions done and they said the catalytic converter needed repair/replacement. I know need to figure out what it needs and he said it could cost up to $1,200. I think that is way to high.

    Any thoughts or ideas on how to reduce the cost? Is it something that can be replaced by me?
  • celicafancelicafan Member Posts: 5
    My Celica is 1999. I am sure your car is also after that and has the diagnostic feature in it. See the manual, or check under the dashboard under the steering column area. If so, you can invest in the dignostic tool for a little over 100 bucks. Plug this in per instructions (insert key in ignition, DO NOT START, plug the diagnostic tool in, turn the key to on BUT do NOT START THE CAR). The tool will beep and the trouble code will be displayed, like P033, or something. Then look up in the the enclosed code book table. It will tell you the problem right away.
    You might have a defective oxygen sensor or thermostat or some small problem, which you can replace yourself, from NAPA or Western Auto or Pep Boys or buy over the internet for less than $50. If it is major, like the catalytic convertor, at least you will have the satisfaction of knowing you weren't "taken for a ride"- (ha-ha... pun intended). Good Luck
  • celicafancelicafan Member Posts: 5
    Sorry, worthy1. I could not figure out what your problem could be. I never had any such problems, and I checked with my friends, too. Most likely it is the battery, not retaining the charge enough, or does not have the high "Amps" capacity. If the battery is good, then the wiring is probably shot. Usually, after 5 to 7 years, most of the wiring insulation deteriorates; it may look fine, but there are "invisible" kind of electric leaks, and some of the contacts have soot and grime inside which you may be able to clean with "contact cleaner" sprays from Radioshack. I don't know for sure, if anything, short of replacing some of the wiring harness for the lights, will work. A higher amp battery might be able to overcome the problem... but again, it is trial and error: may work, or may not. Good Luck
  • year2525year2525 Member Posts: 1
    Hello everybody. I have a 1990 toyota celica gt (2.2 liter engine). It's been a great car.
    The ignition has locked up and won't turn when I insert the key. I have tried pulling hard on the steering wheel (turning both left and right) as I try turning the key. The ignition won't budge.

    If anybody knows how I can solve this problem while avoiding costly repair bills, I am all ears.

    I had another key made at the local Toyota dealership, but that did not solve the problem.

    The Toyoata dealership said a new ignition cylinder costs $90.

    Will installing this cylinder solve the problem, and is it difficult to do? I am somewhat mechanically inclined.

    Thank you.
  • peterpan99peterpan99 Member Posts: 65
    You should buy a handheld engine scanner. Many brands sold on e Bay for $20. It will read out any fault codes. The P0420 fault code is catalytic converter running low efficiency.

    The catalytic converter may be bad, but most likely the cause is fuel /air mixture is not optimum, therefore fuel burn is incomplete, causing high level of pollution that cannot be completely cleaned by the catalytic converter. The catalytic converter itself is probably OK and does not need replacement.

    Try cheap fixes of the air/fuel mixture problem first before other expensive fixes. The air filter is probabaly old and dirty, and should be replaced. It should be replaced every 15K miles or when it looks dirty. New Toyota OEM air filters are sold in eBay for about $12. Toyota dealers sell for $30, yuk!

    The white filter fiber should look white and clean. The engine sucks in a lot of air through this filter. Dirty filter would reduce airflow into engine, causing rich mixture that causes low gas mileage, high pollution and rough idle.

    If new air filter still cause low-efficiency catalytic converter then look to make sure all rubber vaccumm hoses around the air box and the fuel injection unit are properly connected and not leaking.

    Perhaps spraying carburetor cleaner into the fuel injection unit's throat to unstuck the valve would also help...

    Look at the symtoms, figure out all possible causes, then try the cheap fixes at the root cause first. Dont just fix the symtoms. Would be expensive and sometimes useless.
  • peterpan99peterpan99 Member Posts: 65
    P0420 catalytic converter fault may be caused by rich air/fuel mixture. The converter itself is probably OK.

    Replace the air filter should increase air intake, balance out air/fuel mixture and solve the problem. You can buy Toyota OEM air filter in eBay for about $12. Dealers sell for about $30.

    Check all rubber vaccuum hoses around the airbox and the fuel injector. Make sure they are connected and not leaking.

    Check the cold air valve in the airbox in front of the air filter. It may be stuck in close position, causing rich fuel mixture. Spray some WD40 into the valve to lubricate it.
  • peterpan99peterpan99 Member Posts: 65
    You can buy it in eBay for about $10.
  • mgh777mgh777 Member Posts: 2
    I just paid $3oo to have 2 motor mounts replaced and i still have a wired vibration through out the drive train-- it really shows up in 3rd gear (automatic) while gaining speed. after reaching cruse it settles down and rides OK. its a 95 celica gt and the CV joints are OK so they said. is it something in the trans? :cry:
  • dalicea97dalicea97 Member Posts: 15
    I need to replace a fuse for my dash clock and I wonder if I need to replace it in the fuse block on the left side of my instrument panel inside my car or outside in my engine compartment?
    Thank you for the response. I appreciate it. :confuse:
  • natural4realznatural4realz Member Posts: 2
    I am having the exact same problem with my Toyota Celica Gt 1988

    It idles rough while I am in park, and when I accelerate it starts off very slow and finially catches up... I have like 165,000 miles on it too. Did you EVER find out what the problem was or is????

    Michelle in Las Vegas
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