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Acura MDX (pre-2007)
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Comments
If the only thing that bothers you about the MDX is the brake caliper clicking, then I would say Acura has one hell of a car on their hands.
Acura has had many interviews where they have said that there initial mantra was "defeat winter" and the path they choose to go with the VTM has done remarkably well in that goal. The VTM has been slightly retuned, to offer a slightly less front biased torque split, but it is still NOT like the Audi style balance that works well in even dry/ high traction condtions.
The VSA is similarly something that can be 'tuned' with software to be more aggressive in its action. Personally I don't feel that the CR "moose miss" test ought to be the goal of the VSA, but if the Acura engineers are pressured in this direction I could envision a change to the software...
I realize that there are benefits to be had from an Audi style (or WRX style) torque split, but for the MDX that is not what Acura was after.
Similarly there are benefits to using a CVT. As the MDX received a substanstailly redesigned tranny for 03, the odds of a CVT seem remote.
The possibility of another SUV wearing the Acura "A" exists; that could be a "dual note" style hybrid that may be called the RD-X. Possibility of a CVT seems much higher in that vehicle.
The odds of "major" changes to the 04 is very remote -- there will probably be additional features added to stay competitive but the "overhaul" is not due until 2005-6. The changes that may happen this fall will likely be minor. Even the changes from the 2+ year out "overhaul" may be fairly minor -- this is Acura's most in demand vehicle!
In the meantime it sounds like you really want Acura to build the Murano -- you could buy that now...
Yes, it is slick looking, but for less money you could easily duplicate the installation. IR headsets are widely available. The factory RES is nothing 'special' -- even the integration into the "regular" factory sound system is something you can achieve with fairly common (to stereo shop guys) Blitzsafe & Alpine adapters.
I personally would not want the "roof mount" style screen -- I much prefer the monitors in the backs of the headrests -- one for left & right could be tracked down for about the same money as factory system.
For ultimate flexibilty (and even "time out" if the need arises...) I prefer a portable system. Use the money for Navi -- that is much harder to duplicate the integration & the opportunies to use GPS outsideof vehicle are (generally)less than for portable DVD...
It is a great portable unit. We put it on the center console folded back and use a plastic wire tie to hold it in place. Sound is good, no problems hearing it, we even sometimes hook it into the stereo for movies with a lot of songs.
We bring it into hotels or wherever we are staying. We cannot hook it up to most TVs in hotels (although the unit comes with all the cables), just due to the TV setup, although the kids watch it in the corner and we do our own thing.
Battery life is a true 5 hours. We also have a portable DC outlet converter so we can plug it into the car.
The only drawback is that the 3rd row cannot see it. Although that plays right into the other nice feature of a portable unit, we only use it on long trips so there wouldn't be anyone back there (most likely). So on short trips we don't have the kids pointing at a screen and demanding a DVD because it isn't in the car. Not that we would give in, just much less stress :-)
Transpower
Most of the market has moved to using braking-based traction control to manage traction between the left and right wheels of the same axle. The center differential can be Torsen, VC, etc. and may be lockable. While the traction control management systems are "only" effective for 99% of typical driving conditions, they save considerable weight and are relatively simple to implement.
The 2003 MDX uses the VSA system to manage the front axle. It doesn't need three Torsen or three Quaife differentials.
http://www.ibiblio.org/tkan/audi/usmodels.html#qgen
Transpower
When you are driving, even in a high performance off road sort of manner, a spinning wheel is not going to behave the way you want it to -- it will litrally be out of control.
If a properly implented VSC system uses the brakes to prevent that "out of control" situation, this is a good thing. It is not something to fear, any more than a differntial that directs power to wheels with grip is something that should evoke a "friend or foe" reaction...
It is NOT like the VSA will say "oh no, you are going too fast -- that is not allowed" it only helps the wheels do what your inputs to the steering, accelerator, and brake pedal are trying to accomplish BUT the traction limits won't completely allow...
It's not braking a wheel with traction. Also, these systems usually do not "clamp down" on a spinning wheel. E.g. you don't see your wheel suddenly freeze as the brakes are applied. Rather, the brake is "pulsed" so the spinning doesn't stop, but simply is reduced and moderated. So that there's enough to get power to the other wheel on the open differential.
So in effect, the vehicle is truly routing power to the wheel with traction.
The concerns most people have is the last step in traction control, where it begins to reduce throttle when it feels that you're so out-of-control that just braking one side of each differential, or routing power forward/back, isn't doing the trick. That is, of course, highly dependent on how the system is tuned. And on some vehicles you can turn this aspect off or significantly reduce it (which is often helpful when offroading).
Transpower
I highly doubt if a traction control system will wear out the brakes twice as fast as a non-traction control system (as implied in the previous message). Unless you're constantly causing the traction control system to engage, they're not active that often.
I don't doubt that there is some extra wear on the brakes upon engagement. But I doubt if it's excessive.
But look at it this way. I could get a vehicle with a front and/or rear Torsen differential, or one that manages left/right traction with braking. In the less than 1% of the time that traction control engages, the braking is 99%+ as effective as having the Torsens.
But with the Torsens, I pay a significant weight penalty for the 100% of the time I drive the vehicle. 100% of the time, I would lose out on extra power for acceleration, and on fuel economy. With the braking-based traction control system, I get the full power potential of the vehicle without a big weight penalty.
This is one reason why Audi's with Torsens only use them for the center differential. Adding more Torsens would just make them too heavy, too weak, and too expensive.
Concerning the Ebony interior, we have an o1 MDX with the ebony interior and heat has not been an issue. The dual air has kept the interior very comfortable. The heated seats have been an unexpected plus during the winter months.
Our selection of ebony was mostly esthetic due to the contrast between the silver and dark surfaces. We prefer the contrast. The black will show the dust particles easier.
Good luck......
For better fuel economy, a CVT would definitely help, considering that the Murano (with a CVT) gets 20 to 24 MPG vs. the MDX's 17 to 23 MPG. A Diesel-Electric hybrid would help even more.
Getting back to the Hummer 2 for a moment:
What's especially odd about this 6200 lb vehicle is the lack of a Diesel engine and the lack of a DVD navigation system. Isn't that ridiculous? Also ridiculous is the huge spare tire in the cargo compartment which eats up most of the space.
Transpower
Torsen differentials are known for being heavy. Quaife differentials aren't so much lighter. If you had Torsens on both front and rear axles you'd get noticeably lower gas mileage and it would indeed hurt your acceleration. Look at the 4motion Passat and how much weight it gains over a 2WD Passat -- with most of that weight invested in a single, center, Torsen differential. The acceleration and gas mileage gets compromised. If you were to add Torsens to the front and rear, the vehicle would be a dog. Sure, it'd be able to extricate itself out of a ~0.01% situation, but it'd be a dog 100% of the time you drive it.
Adding a CVT would offset some of the weight, but a CVT would also improve performance in a non-Torsened, non-Quaifed MDX.
"Torsen is approximately 30% - 50% heavier than an open differential and does vary by application. Typically a Torsen weighs around 23 lbs."
So, assume an increase of 40%. If the Torsen weighs 23 lbs, the open diff. would weigh 16.4 lbs. Therefore the weight penalty would be 6.6 lbs. The curb weight of a 2001 MDX is 4387 lbs. The EPA rating is 17-23 MPG, so let's say 20 MPG on average. Therefore, assuming a direct correlation with vehicle weight, the fuel economy of an MDX with a Torsen in front (replacing the open diff.) would be
(4387/4393.6) x 20 = 19.97 MPG, or a drop of only .03 MPG. Wow, I think I'll take that to have the traction advantage of the Torsen (or Quaife).
Transpower
Let's see if the Quaife rep tells you about overheating problems that some owners have reported.
Would just a regular LSD up front just resolve all of this? I had a LSD in my old Nissan Altima SE 5 speed and it caused a lot of torque steer under hard acceleration.
The debate seems to be centered over whether that's more than enough or would the MDX benefit from having a Torsen or Quaife differential. Torsen differentials are mechanical differentials that automatically send torque to the wheel with traction, through a pretty clever gear arrangement.
http://www.amghummer.com/features/Torsen/Work/torsen_works.htm
To answer sbcooke: the reason for this whole discussion is to point out that in an ideal 4x4 SUV the torque developed by the engine is routed front to back and side to side to each of the four wheels in accordance with their individual traction. The 2001-2002 MDX routes torque front to back, and side to side in the rear, but not in the front. The 2003 MDX uses traction control to indirectly route torque side to side in the front. It's simply been my opinion (expressed for several years now) that the MDX would be improved by having a Quaife or Torsen in front, thus meeting the standard of the ideal 4x4.
Transpower
Also...After reading that link, it seems like Torsen offers a reasonable alternative to adding a locker to a 4wd vehicle? Why do most 4wd discussions revolve around either a LSD or locker and not these Torsens? What is the disadvantage?
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/differential8.htm
Apart from one wheel coming off the ground, it seems like it offers as good if not better than a standard LSD.
I know you had back luck with your MDX, however I don't think it would be a mistake to try another? Perhaps the dealer will trade you up to a new 2003 for a really good deal to avoid the whole process?
What PA dealer? If you were to trade up, people on the board may be able to suggest another dealer to switch to once received for maintenance and service.
Like the CA lemon law, PA says you go back to the first time and miles when the problem that results in a repurchase or replacement was reported in order to determine the use charge.
Example of how useage deduction can be determined: miles of use at the the FIRST time problem reported divided by 120,000, times the purchase price = useage deduction. This is a straight percentage of the purchase price based on 120,000 miles as the no major problem design life of the vehicle.
There may be more of the PA law than I saw online that deals with situations that occur during the warranty, but after the first year/12,000 miles.
Is Acura trying to claim your transmission problems are three separate problems rather than what it really is: faulty transmission?
I heard a couple of hundred lemon law cases in CA and during the hearing the manufacturer could only suggest what they considered a fair repurchase amount. I was under no obligation to use their suggestion.
http://www.vtec.net/news/news-item?news_item_id=133702
1) The luxury moniker of Acura - this generally means better service eg Acura loaner cars for service, etc.
2) Safety - I'd be skeptical about the safety of the third row occupants in the new Toyota's -I saw one picture of the seats down in the 4runner and there did not appear to be any space between the back glass and the top of the headrest! I'm wondering if the new third rows have been "shoehorned" into the cargo area due the demand for these seats lately. Plus Toyota must have realized they were losing Highlander sales to the Pilot (a more direct competitor to the Highlander). Acura at least claims internal testing for 3rd row occupant safety in rear end collisions upto 35 MPH.
3) I'm not sure a ~1 inch difference in legroom will be noticable. The seats are already cramped for most adults.
I think most will agree that the reliability of the Acura/Honda products are comparable to Toyota/Lexus. You'd be hard press to state that one company has a definite edge over the other!
Just my 0.02
George
Hello George,
Where did you see this? And what kind of object is used at what height to do this rear-end testing. Because we all know how the height of contact matters.
Powertrain:
265 horsepower @ 5800 rpm, up from 260
253 lb-ft torque between 3500 - 5000 rpm
Dual exhausts (which provides the add'l power)
Exterior:
New die-cast flangeless aluminum wheels for Touring
New front fascia, with an integrated chin spoiler and satin chrome finish
Projector beam halogen headlights
New rear fascia with new taillights and satin chrome finish
Dual exhaust tips
Windshield is now acoustic glass
Layer of Thinsulate added to side mirrors to reduce wind noise
Magnetic melt sheets for more noise reduction; covers virtually the entire floor as bonded material, instead of asphalt or other materials
Rear window washer now uses a spray-type nozzle instead of the previous jet-type; supposedly increases water flow
New colors: Aspen Pearl White, Burnished Bronze Metallic
Interior:
New roof console made from Tricot material, with moonroof controls, lighting for driver and front passenger, and Homelink
Grab handles on door are now covered in leather
Woven pillars
Power-adjustable driver's seat lumbar support (Touring only)
Ambient foot lights and welcome illumination (subtle pale blue light from footwells and shifter column come on with the headlights)
Backlit meters with ambient blue lighting
Wood and leather shifter and escutcheon
Brushed metal-look trim on instrument panel
"Upgraded" Acura/Bose audio system (Touring only) -- 225 watts (up from 200), with new tweeters, new high power neodymium magnets in the front and rear doors for higher output and a "stronger and deeper bass," higher power rear twiddler
"Softer and more flexible" leather seating surfaces
Right portion of second row travels 40% more forward than before, for easier access to third row.
Safety:
Side curtain airbags for all three rows
Rollover sensor will trigger side curtains in a rollover, at speeds depending on the rollover rate
Other:
Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS)
Also, how much of "hit" or up charge would be reasonable at this point if I wanted to roll my current deal forward to an '04 - trade would be year older/getting model year newer MDX with few extra features, etc. (e.g., + a percent or two, etc.)? Just curious since getting to be out at very tail end of 03's. Planning to take a final look at Lexus GX470 before the new MDX comes in but pretty certain will stick with MDX. Like the fold flat rear seat, rearview camera, etc (+ hard to justify the $10K extra in MSRP - though deals would make it more like $7K difference with deeper discount on GX).
You can purchase the OEM package from www.hondacureworld.com for $550. It is not BRAIN SURGEY to DIY.
If they charge a REASONABLE price for installation of the factory trailer towing package (which includes the hitch, coolers, hardware, wiring, reciever & cover) it MIGHT be 2 hours of shop time. That should cover the rather involved (but not particularly skill demanding) removal of the front bumper cover to access the front of the raditator to install the coolers, connecting coolers and refilling coolant & PS fluid & the bolting up of the hitch in back.
If the dealer realizes it is either "make a little" or "make NOTHING" they will likely cut their price to something that is fair -- they obviously cannot compete with the $250 uhaul hitch, but I would suggest $600--700 is do-able...
Another option would be to buy the kit from hondacuraworld and have a local shop do the work for you. $900 is a lot for the purchase and install. That is about $400 in labor they are charging.
I did the hitch only for my bike rack. I got one from hiddenhitch.com. Most hiddenhitch's are really hidden (on other vehicle types), I was a little disappointed though, it isn't really all that hidden. I think for the MDX the drawtight hitch is better looking.
My dealer said that as long as I didn't tow, I wouldn't void the warranty. So no towing package for me.