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Comments
I own a 2001 RX300. When it gets cold I notice a lot of rattle from the front driver's side where the dash meets the window. I was wondering if any of you have had this problem and any fixes you may have encountered.
Also, I have approx 31,000 miles on the car. All I have done are tire rotations and oil changes. What about the torquing of those bolts? Is it necessary to do that?
Thanks!
Good points:
Excellent build/fit/finish.
Good quality leather. Was worried that it could be as thin/soft as my Camry's. It appears RX's is much harder to wear.
Comfortable front/back seats. Good rear leg room for a short wheelbase/length vehicle
Descent 23mpg (FWD)
Not so good points:
Poor center console. The sliding piece for cup holders/storage area is a bad idea. If you have to slide the console open then you can't put anything in the area so called " The Purse holder ". Lexus would have been better off to CONNECT the entire area between the front seats to the center lower part of the dash, and have a large covered box between the arm rests, and have fixed cupholders. they would have created storage room that this vehicle lacks so much. Lexus likes this design since they used it in RX330. Honda Pilot's center console lay out is the best design IMO.
Shifter: It could get a little shorter. I have bumped it several times while reaching for fan/heater selector.
Missing Power switch for transmission. My Camry has it so did our old 89 Mazda MPV. It feels like the RX transmission shift up too soon. With power switch, the shift point moves to higher speed, making the vehicle more lively. Yes it may rub the mpg a little.
Bumpy suspension: The RX bounces too much when it goes over rough/irregular surfaces. Is the 225/70-16 the best tire choice? I think the RX can stand to be lower to the ground than it is.
Interior Width: The RX300 feels very narrow. Door map pockets are almost touching the seats, the seats are touching the center console,....
I tried 2003 Explorer. Roomy and descent, but the front seats were terrible. With all power adjustements, could not figure out a comfortable position.
Jeff
Steve, Host
Pete, could have given you a great deal on a loaded 99 AWD (everything but the useless roof rack and even more worthless tow hitch) up till a week ago...........with only 62k!
cosmookie, great deal!
Willard, excellent point, as usual!
jodar, how many miles?? Shocks that have gone south (no fluid leaks necessary) get pretty bouncy. And what tires?? Please don't say you're on those worthless No-tegritys that were OEM for quite a while. Seriously, sounds like degraded shocks.
jeff.......spongiform encephalopathy??
jiamin, I know what you're saying, but I prefer the shift points and throttle openings of "power" vs. "normal" anyway. Wish the 330 had it, too (but it doesn't).
My, my.......look at the time.......me and the Amish, we know how to rip it on New Year's........I'd better get to bed; it's after midnight........in Bermuda, anyway.
HNY, all!!
How much did you pay for the updgraded DVD? I've heard it is much more expensive than Acura and Infiniti upgrades. Those run around $185-200. So...I've been driving around with 3 year old data!
I have also heard that the cost of an update is $500. Can you confirm? Was there enough changes on the DVD to make a difference. When I asked, I was told that not a lot had changed for the easteren VA area. What version is the update?
Once you install it, please post your thoughts so the rest of us can use you as a guinea pig on whether or not we should purchase the upgrade.
Although I've read hundreds of posts on how useless the nav. system is, for the rest of us who own a car with it, it's actually pretty cool.
My 2000 AWD RX 300 is suddenly experiencing a flooding of the front passender floor. The liquid seems to be water - no other taste or color or smell or consistency, and all the engine fluid levels are OK and constant. It has happened four times during the last week, generally on longer trips (the first time on a trip from CT to FL and the other times in FL), but not each time the car is driven. The car has not been in any accidents, is garaged, hasn't been through any significant rain storms or had the windows left open (although it had been driven for several hours in heavy snow during the weeks before the first incident). The car doesn't have a sunroof. The drains at the bottom of the windshield run free and clear to the ground when tested. Each time it happens there is enough liquid on the carpet that it is visible on the surface, and we mop it up with a towel and dry the carpet off. Has anyone else experienced this?? Does anyone have any thoughts on what might be causing this?? Thanks - Wet Feet in FL.
Unless you have Lexus change the c-best settings your A/C will run at all times, winter and summer, and you will end up with wet carpets.
Oh well.
I am considering taking it to a Toyota dealer as I understand the same service can be had for about $100 less than Lexus. Either way, my plan is to only request "factory recommended" service but I would welcome any other suggestions. I think that I might trade up for a newer model right before the 4 yr/50K warranty runs out.
Thanks for all the great info!
I have the complete set of shop manuals, including the electrical and PTO manuals and no mention is made of C-best settings being available anywhere in these manuals that I can find.
Even the dealer I took it to at first denied that this particular C-best setting existed until someone here on the internet was kind enough to supply me with a list.
So I got stuck with the 01 AWD RX300. But, slipped the snowchains on the rear wheels and went to work yesterday. Today was much worse than yesterday but the snowchains got me into Bellevue.
I found a virtually empty Sears parking lot and decided to see just how good the AWD with VSC/Trac really is. So I popped the chains off.
The snow was about 3 to 4 inches deep, 27F as it fell, not quite good skiing powder but unpacked. But obviously a layer of ice underneath.
Accelerating moderately and straight ahead it was clear from the sound that the brakes were being applied by the Trac system. No audiable alarm but if I looked down during the event the "skid" icon would be illuminated.
If I applied "excessive" gas during the Trac activity the engine would very definitely get dethrottled and over-ride my input. I can't say for sure, but I came away with the sense that Trac was acting differetially in the rear to provide a "virtual" LSD.
Regardless of what I did, causing oversteer, serious oversteer in several cases, the VSC did nothing discernable. Creating understeer was a bit more difficult but again the VSC did nothing.
In the past few days I have, I'm sure, experienced VSC activation, even with the audiible alarm, but try as I might it would not activate in the Sears parking lot.
Oh, that instruction to apply the brakes firmly and let ABS do its bit needs to be amended. If you know the roadbed is slippery and the brake pedal stops pulsing before you come to a full stop the ABS has just been "fooled" into thinking the vehicle is stopped.
In that case lift your foot from the brakes long enough for the wheels to begin rolling again and then reapply firmly. Repeat as needed.
Having seen the entire (long, detailed list, assumed entire) BMW "c-best" list I can only imagine what options might be available to Lexus customers if we only knew.
Fog lights without LBs??
Heated airflow for defogging the windshield???
Climate control HEATED airflow at any engine water jacket temperature above cabin ambient instead of having to wait til it reaches all the way to 130F or the optional use of defrost to obtain EARLIER cabin heat on a really cold morning??
The ability to LOCK the climate control in heating mode, or have it remain in heating mode with the OAT below a selected level, rather than suffer the discomfort of having it automatically switch to COOLING mode (Also wherein the windshield interior surface is NOT continuously warmed and often therefore allowed to decline to dewpoint) on the coldest night in the dead of winter, BRRRRR....
Or how about.... ANYTIME, EVERYTIME, I activate the defrost/defog/demist function it goes into MAX HEAT and MAX BLOWER SPEED instantly upon entering the windshield outflow mode and then allows me the option of modulating the heated airflow downward as the windshield clears.
Or maybe even a default GPS/Nav display screen mode that duplicates the non-nav screen display instead of the moving map or blank screen choice of today which forces a manual system interaction to even see the OAT or climate control status.
LARGE ego or dreamer......
Hey, who knows, maybe someday Jeff will wake up one morning and stop being adversarial and that might even wake Lexus up to pay attention.
And pigs will fly.
Remember their motto?
"The Relentless Pursuit of Perfection"
No, sorry, that one's gone, discarded.
"The Passionate Pursuit of Perfection"
I guess "Relentless" implied an acknowledgment of never arriving.
I own a 2001 RX300. When it gets cold I notice a lot of rattle from the front driver's side where the dash meets the window. I was wondering if any of you have had this problem and any fixes you may have encountered.
Also, I have approx 31,000 miles on the car. All I have done are tire rotations and oil changes. What about the torquing of those bolts? Is it necessary to do that?
Thanks!
I might end up buying a BMW X3 but for an entirely different reason. Factory delivery and six weeks touring europe.
Anyone interested in a slightly used BMW X3 come early August?
And, of course, that's likely to happen...
When those same pigs fly!
to lordkarma-- good question about torquing bolts.
I never torqued mine. I cant even identify which ones they are "torquing" about. I looked for loose bolts on the driveshaft, but never found any in the 4 years and 117k miles I have the rx.
I'm new here but have been researching RX for about 3 months now, mainly the 2000 model. Heres' what I was wondering form those of you who own these puppies:
1. I'm concerned about having to pay large $$ for so-called"X-mile " services. I had a Volvo and couldn't get out of the shop usually for less than $500. Are these required and what experiences have you had having these performed?
2. We are also looking at the MDX and the Highlander. Any comments and/or suggestions will be helpful. Dollar wise, the HL is comparable but is only about 1 to 2 years old vs. a 4-year old RX for about the same price. The MDX is much higher in $$ but seems to be a little better in that the salesman said that the first major service is at 115K. Is this true or not?
3. I'm also concerned about paying higher during repairs because it is a Lexus (vs. Toy). I will probably try to purchase a ext. wrty., and will be using a Toy dealer for non warranty events or a Lexus shop (non-dealer)for same. Would I be better off with the HL or the Acura, or do the Acura folks charge as much?
As you can see, I'm not too concerned about reliability, as I know that the cars we are discussing are relatively reliable. I'm concerend about having a car payment (after not having one for 7 years!) and still paying for any major repairs over the course of the loan.
The car will be driven by my wife, mostly around town. We will not be towing or off-roading, and she likes the way these cars drive. If you would like to send a message direct, please email at dmead@adelphia.net.
Thanks in advance for your comments/help.
But now my question is that if Trac prevents the wheels/tires from slipping how is it that the VC will ever see enough disparate driveline rotation front to rear to "stiffen" up?
Or is that maybe why the VC was dropped from the RX design? As of 01 the availability of Trac just made it extra useless "baggage".
Steve, Host
98072
Leather-wrapped steering wheels get pretty mucky too.. this spray cleans it up well -- just watch out not to spray it onto the wood!
As the bottle says though, try out ANY cleaner in a small area first to make sure it doesn't destroy the leather!!
Good Luck!
We are considering a CPO or a private seller 2002 RX 300. The private seller vehicle is around $2k less than what the CPO vehicle is. The private seller vehicle has around 18,000 miles left on the original warranty. We'll put about 2,000 miles per month on the vehicle.
Obviously the value of the CPO is the added warranty on the vehicle. Any feedback on the following would be appreciated.
1. What is the monetary value of the CPO program? I know this is a guess and opinion, but any thoughts?
2. What is the general track record of this model after the warranty period has expired? If they are well cared for in the intial few years, is the overall track record favorable in years three through six?
3. If we were to go with the private seller, what types of things should we have checked by a mechanic and should that mechanic be at the Lexus dealership?
4. What is the thought on valuation of AWD vs. front wheel drive only?
Anyone want to testify that the new RX330 AWD system actually works?
If you live, or drive, in areas wherein you don't encounter adverse roadbed conditions I would say that the FWD will suffice, assuming VSC & Trac options.
If you often do encounter those conditions and op to purpose the FWD anyway just be sure you are fully aware of the hazards of operating a FWD, or FWD biased AWD, in ice and snow conditions. That weight over the front driven wheels is ideal for getting up and going or accelerating but when it comes time to slow or stop on a slippery surface the level of engine braking to the front wheels can/will often catch you by surprise.
Having said that, the RX300 VSC/Trac system does often upshift in this circumstance, sudden lift of the gas pedal, to help alleviate the problem.
I would not buy any type of extended warranty for a Lexus unless I had concerns about the previous owner.
We are in Charlotte. We get snow once or twice per year that doesn't stick around very long. The vehicle will be driving 50 miles each way to work, each day. The roads traveled are state highways, one lane each way so standing water is a likely encounter.
Anyone with experience or opinion on AWD vs. FWD models of the RX 300 (2002 or maybe 2001)?
Finally, this one may be stupid but...can we buy from a private seller and purchase any kind of warranty from a dealer? If so, what kind of warranty is this and what is a typical cost?
They say you need snow tires on all four wheels. I think that is sales ploy and may be the look of four matching snow tires is better, but I do not believe it is necessary as long as the tire size is identical and tire pressure is constant at 30 PSI all the way around. If I find out the look bothers me, I will put two more on next year.
Without the snow tires, several times I had trouble come up our steep driveway to get in the garage. The traction control was doing its work, but was not able to get the RX going. Also snow tires, save the weak FWD transmissons by preventing Front wheel from spinning. What often kills transmissions, is spinning on snow and ice and then suddenly hitting the dry patch.
I had Blizzaks on our 97 Dodge van for 6 years Nov-Mar (same tires). The van never had the transmission problem that so many Chrysler owners complain about.
But if the base vehicle come in RWD, then AWD/4WD is the way to go.
Joe
I NEVER use winter tires, quieter that way, if I can avoid them and when I use snowchains they ALWAYS go on the back first and then another set on the front if things are really bad, like mostly FWD vehicles scattered and abandoned all over the roadbed such that the ditch is the only path around.
My 01 AWD RX got 1.2" spacers and 17x8 wheels all around right after purchase primarily for fitting rear snowchains.
And by the way, if you're relying on Trac to get you up that driveway then you need some adverse condition driving lessons or all four snow tires.
If Trac engages, especially with FWD, its telling you that you're applying too much gas for the conditions.
I drove my 85 Jetta on icy interstates 100 miles everyday 6 days a week from Oct 84-Nov 90 with two snow tires on front tires. Never ever had any problems. That Jetta had 183K miles when I sold it. I have seen a lot of cocky SUV drivers in the ditch or median also in my 21 years of commuting. I still drive on the same interstate only 60 miles a day for five days. Do you think I need driving lesson on icy roads or my experience qualifies me that I know what I am talking about?
I don't like chains. They are way too overkill for our driving. They might be the best choice in your area. If you really want a true SUV buy a Ford Explorer or Jeep Grand Cherokee. As you mentioned, how good of AWD you have in an RX300 if only 10% of power ends up going to rear wheels?
With our 97 Dodge van, I was very happy with the way it drove with the snow tires. If you have not had Blizzaks or Winter Duelers, you should try them. They are excellent.These tires are a little noisy but not to the point of saying I much rather use chains occasionally and not listen to this noise.
I said the FWD RX with regular tires was not going up the driveway. I have NO experience with Lexus's snow botton that I assume lets the car take off in second gear, or traction control. All I know is that neither one was helping to get in the garage. How do suppose the snow tires on rear wheels would help here that you think I should have snow tires on all four wheels to get in the garage???
RX is a small car, at 180.O" long, and a short 103.0" WB. 18.0" wheels certainly don't help the ride. I already do not like the choppy ride of the RX with its 225/70-16 wheels, can't imagine 18" wheels will improve the ride.
Someone said to check the shocks. they are fine. I drove a 2003 with 18K miles, the ride was the same as our 2001 with 60K.
Joe
We are in Charlotte. We get snow once or twice per year that doesn't stick around very long. The vehicle will be driving 50 miles each way to work, each day. The roads traveled are state highways, one lane each way so standing water is a likely encounter.
Anyone with experience or opinion on AWD vs. FWD models of the RX 300 (2002 or maybe 2001)?
Finally, this one may be stupid but...can we buy from a private seller and purchase any kind of warranty from a dealer? If so, what kind of warranty is this and what is a typical cost?
But if you were willing to travel a few miles, I would try the greater Raleigh area. With this much competition, you should be able to find a 4WD CPO without having to travel the entire east. You need to sell the trip to your SO as getaway to history education or something like that, you get the drift...??? *g*
We don't need to go down this particular road again....
Steve, Host