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Isuzu Trooper

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Comments

  • robb1997robb1997 Member Posts: 1
    I am seriously considering purchasing a '98-'00 Trooper, but I am concerned about the towing capacity. Does anyone use their Trooper as a regular tow vehicle. I have a boat that weighs aprox. 3500 - 4000 lbs. Can a Trooper really handle this type of weight, and if so, how will it perform??

    Any advice would be greatly appreciated!!!
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I have a 3500lb boat trailer, tow it to the mountains upstate NY @ 77-80mph. No problems at all.

    -mike
  • john303john303 Member Posts: 14
    Has anyone heard or know of a way to replace the bolts that hold on the spare with studs that would be anchored in the base for the spare.

    I want to mount a spare tire rack on my 94 trooper leaving the spare tire cover in place. With the bolts that hold the spare on its impossible. I couldnt line up the rack bracket(that fits behind the spare tire), tire cover bolt holes and wheel holes to get the bolts to thread in.

    God forbid i should would EVER have to take get the spare off the back of the truck.
  • schulhofschulhof Member Posts: 71
    I know I am coming up a little short of your question ;)

    But.....I routinely tow a 2500 lbs, 18' boat, up hill, in the California heat, A/C on at 70 mph. The Trooper has 2 adults and two kids and perhaps 200 lbs of gear. The 2500 lbs boat has about another 200 lbs of gear. No sweat!
  • afconwayafconway Member Posts: 8
    I traded in the '99 Trooper at the dealer (Lakewood NJ). Got $18K for it. I think you can do better selling it privately, maybe $19.5K - $20K range.

    I had 24K miles on it and it was in excellent condition. (LUX pkg - Cream White w/silver lowers)

    The price on the Excursion was too good to let go, so after negotiating a little, I settled for their offer. I just got a 28 foot Travel Trailer (Dry Weight 4850LBS) and the Trooper is only rated for 5000lbs. My previous trailer was 24 foot (dry weight 3900lbs) and the Trooper handled it just fine on flat roads. On hills it seemed to strain a little but always made it. Only got 8 MPG when towing.

    One thing if you are going to tow with the Trooper is to use a weight distribution hitch AND anti-sway control. The short wheelbase on the Trooper could give you some trouble if the trailer starts to sway.
  • nighter50nighter50 Member Posts: 127
    thanks for the information and have fun in the Excursion!
  • luvmytrooperluvmytrooper Member Posts: 3
    Just bought my 2000 Trooper 6 days ago and I love it, but it does not have the 6 disc changer in it. Do any one know where I can found one for a good price. Also I was looking at the 18" rims on the Vehicross and was wonder if the rims would fit my trooper with a lower tire. I call All the Isuzu dealer around Atlanta and They could not deal me if the rims would fit or not. If any could help me with this info it would be great. I Ay did I tell you guys I love my Trooper
  • aderoseaderose Member Posts: 2
    A few weeks ago my wife added a quart of oil to our 2000 Trooper "S", 900 miles after an oil change. She told me when I got home from work. She also said there was a small puddle of oil under the vehicle. I crawled under, and saw that the oil pan was wet with oil, so I wiped it with a paper towel and was surprized to see I could turn the oil drain plug with the towel! I found the leak! The dealer service person neglected to tighten the plug after the oil change. I was quite irritated, as you can imagine. That's the only time we had to add oil to our Trooper. P.S. We are getting our next change for free. We get 18.5 mpg on the Interstate, 17 mpg as an average in mixed driving. We use Premium gas, and the vehicle runs great!
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    You may also want to check out the Isuzu Owner's club here on Edmunds town hall. Good stuff going on over there.

    The rims from the VX will work on a trooper, but good luck finding a pair. They are only on 2000 and 2001 VXs (98-99 had 16") You can also probably find a 6 cd-changer by posting over in the owner's area if anyone is upgrading, they'll likely sell you the old one relatively cheap.

    -mike
    spokesperson of Edmunds Town Hall Isuzu Owner's Club
  • drew_drew_ Member Posts: 3,382
    You can get to Town Hall's Isuzu Owner's club area by clicking on the link near the top of this page.


    Drew
    Host
    Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket and Accessories message boards
  • maynardjammaynardjam Member Posts: 1
    Last Saturday we picked up our 01 LS I/moon roof. Dragon Green. Wanted to thank everyone on town hall. All the info gathered REALLY helped us make the decision on a new SUB. Looked at most of em. Town Hall Posts helped draw a line thou Explorer, Blazer, Jeep C. Wanted a 4Runner or Tahoe, but didn't want to go the extra 10k.
    So now the question... final price on the '01 LS I/roof was 27.3K Did we get a good deal?
    Again, MANY, MANY, THANKS!!!!!!
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    That's what I paid for my 00 LS w/ Moonroof actually $27.5 and that was last june.

    -mike
  • raydahsraydahs Member Posts: 449
    You can find VehiCross 18" wheels at 800 WHEELS,

    they sell used wheels. You would be better off

    going aftermarket though...alot cheaper.


    If you decide to go aftermarket, keep this in mind
    your stockers are a 16x7 w/-9mm offset, I put 16x8 w/+38mm offset which brings the rim flush with the fender flare, you don't want to go any farther than that.


    Try http://www.800wheels.com/cart/Isuzu_Vehicross_Aluminum_Alloy_Wheels_and_Rims.htm

  • luvmytrooperluvmytrooper Member Posts: 3
    Thanks guys for all the info.
  • sahara111sahara111 Member Posts: 51
    To all Edelbrock IAS Performer shock users and/or OME rear spring users: WARNING:

    My '99 Trooper, currently equiped with OME rear (progressive) springs and IAS Performer shocks all around, just had a rear IAS shock break - literally come apart - while I was driving to work last week. I noticed a terrible noise after I left the freeway and while driving slowly thru parking lots and secondary streets, and on to work.

    This is my 2nd mishap - failure - with Edelbrock IAS Performer shocks. I'm done with 'em.

    Went over to the dealer, and inspection revealed that the IAS rear shock for the Trooper is threaded only about 1/3" (at most!!!) at the bottom of the piston rod which screws into the top of the bottom mounting point. The piston is NOT safety welded!!! Apparently, the IAS for the Trooper is NOT designed for ANY type of lifted situation - even the measley 1-1/2" that the OME results in. Looking closely, the threads didn't appear to be stripped; instead, we think the top of the mounting bracket, over time, began to dis-form enough such that the threaded end of the piston was able to pull out. We unbolted the bottom bracket, screwed the thing back together and remounted the shock. For now it is holding - with very slow driving - my wife is driving to and from the daughters school only. When I remove it for good (in 7-10 days) I will report again with more details of this malfunction.

    This vehicle has NEVER been taken off-road, never driven over drop-offs, never abused, never had the brakes hard locked, or anything - just normal city/freeway/go to work/get groceries type driving.

    RECOMMENDATION: DO NOT USE THE IAS PERFORMER SHOCK ON ANY LIFTED TROOPER (E.G., THE OME REAR SPRING); IT APPARENTLY CANNOT HANDLE ANY EXTENDED TRAVEL SITUATION BEYOND STOCK HEIGHT.

    I am replacing these "shocks" with OME Nitrochargers (firm variety based on several recommendations) - which is what I should have done in the beginning. Unfortunately, I was taken in by Edelbrocks "slick" marketing campaign. Never again. Please keep in mind that I earlier (last year) had both of the right side (front and rear) IAS shocks develop leaks after going over a moderate bump on the pavement 3 miles from my house. Those were replaced under warranty; bottom line is I don't recommend use of the IAS shock - it doesn't appear to be a truly robust piece of equipment - certainly not one I would trust knowing what I know now.
  • gpm5gpm5 Member Posts: 785
    afconway, if you're still around the trooper section, I was wondering how does the ride and handling of the excursion compare to the trooper?
  • offroaderoffroader Member Posts: 23
    I installed a set of Superwinch hubs on my '99 a couple weeks ago. It was very easy - total job took 4 hours, & included a tire rotation and rear drive shaft lubrication. If you can do maintenance items such as a brake job you can do the hub install. Difficulty rating: 4 (with 1 being a windshield wiper blade change, and 10 being an automatic transmission overhaul).

    Haven't had it offroad yet, but everything works as advertised. I did this same thing to my Toyota pickup with ADD (Automatic Disconnecting Differential) several years ago, using Warn hubs. I expect to pick up a little bit of fuel economy (maybe 1 mpg), but the main reason for doing it is to reduce wear and tear on the front drivetrain components - CVs, boots, etc. Who needs to spin all that metal all the time, esp. on the pavement?

    When it was up on jacks I did notice one thing, as expected. Before the hub install, when I spun a front wheel it stopped in about 1/2 rotation. When the hubs were installed, the wheel spun several full rotations before stopping. This is proof that the hubs reduce friction of the overall system.

    I also noted a slightly lighter feel to the steering, perhaps just a tad better acceleration, and ever-so-slightly reduced interior noise at freeway speeds.

    It's great that Isuzu still makes a 4wd that can accept locking hubs. Many brands will not accept hubs.

    The cost was $115 ($125 after tax) and well worth the expense and a few hours of labor. I highly recommend it.

    Just do it!!!
  • afconwayafconway Member Posts: 8
    I can only saw that the Trooper had a much smoother ride than the Excusrsion. The Excursion is based on Ford's Super Duty Pick-Up and it uses the same suspension parts. The ride is good on highways, but when you get on to bumpy roads, the Excursion bounces much more than the Trooper did.

    I miss many of the features that I had on my Trooper, like the heated seats, electric folding outside mirrors and the gigantic sun roof.

    The Excursion surpasses anything I've ever owned for towing. It is awesome. With the 6.8L V10 with 310 HP and 425lbs of torque (3.73 rear), it hardly knows the travel trailer is behind it. Had it out for the weekend and got 11.2 miles per gallon while towing. ( I only get 11.5 - 12 driving around town without the trailer).
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Do you have TOD on your truck? And would this be considered a "locker" Also if you left them engaged would you be able to engage the TOD on dry pavement? Thanks in advance.

    -mike
  • pinoy99pinoy99 Member Posts: 79
    We need more folks to make a deposit of $250 for this Project to take off. Please see http://www.ok4wd.com or http://www.outdoorwire.com/ubb/Forum68/HTML/001960.html for more details. TIA.
  • offroaderoffroader Member Posts: 23
    Locking hubs ARE NOT the same as a "locker". The hubs simply engage and disengage the front wheels from the drive train - nothing more or less.

    My '99 has TOD, and when the hubs are engaged (or "locked"), the TOD and 4WD Low works exactly the same as before. When they are disengaged (or "free"), the vehicle is in 2WD only and CANNOT be used either in the TOD mode or 4WD Low mode until the hubs are manually locked.

    A true "locker" differential joins the wheels together for a sort of ultra "limited slip". In other words, both wheels are delivering power to the ground, unlike an "open" differential which only really delivers power to one wheel at a time. There are drawbacks to a "locker", and in my experience it is only needed in extreme offroading situations - steep rock crawling, etc. The late model Troopers already have "limited slip" in the rear differential, which is a good compromise for most applications.

    Hope this helps.
  • radman6radman6 Member Posts: 81
    Off Roader,
    Thanks for the post on locking hubs. I really like the TOD feature for winter driving but I've also been wondering what it costs it terms of gas mileage and wear and tear on the drive train. All but one of my previous 4 wheelers had locking hubs. After you've had the chance to run a few tanks through it I'd be curious to hear if the change made any difference in mileage for you.
  • tistevetisteve Member Posts: 142
    Although I understand why you have switched to manual hubs (to reduce wear and tear and maybe save some MPG's), aren't you sacrificing one of the great features of the Trooper, the TOD? I have Toyota Taco ma with ADD hubs and I was thrilled to not have the manual hubs any more.
    It would seem to me that if you now have to get out of the vehicle to lock the hubs, you'll be less likely to do so and then won't have the convenience of the flipping the dash switch to TOD when the weather gets rough.
    I think the gain in wear and tear and MPG's will be minimal at best.
    Is it really worth it?
    I am considering a Trooper for my wife and have really enjoyed all the great information everyone has posted, thanks! I think for the money, the Trooper is one of the best SUV bargains, can't wait to get one.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    We have tons of people over there with troopers as well.

    -mike
  • offroaderoffroader Member Posts: 23
    Installing hubs DOES NOT alter the TOD in any way, except that I have to manually lock the hubs before engaging 4WD. IMO this is a small price to pay relative to the advantages.

    As I posted previously, I don't expect a huge gain in mpg - maybe 1 mpg or so. Out of curiosity, let's do the math. If overall mileage increases from 15 mpg to 16 mpg, and the lifespan (my ownership) of the vehicle is 100,000 miles, I'll save 417 gallons. At $1.75/gallon, that's $730. Wow! Even 1/2 mpg gain easily pays for the hubs and my labor, with enough left over to pay for some good offroadin'!

    BUT, the main advantage is dramatically reduced maintenance. When you are having the front end of your Trooper serviced and need new rubber CV boots, and maybe even new CV joints (ouch$$$$!), I'll be laughing all the way to the bank. Wear-n-tear on the entire front end drive train - bearings, gears, differential oil changes, etc. etc. is reduced - this is beyond argument. The minor expense of the hubs ($125) will be paid for at the first major front end maintenance. The gas I save may also pay for the hubs over the life of the vehicle (about 5x over), but again, mpg is not the main issue.

    Also, the slightly reduced steering effort and interior noise are also minor, but noticeable, pluses.

    When I go offroad, it's no big deal to jump out and lock the hubs - it takes a whopping 20-30 seconds. I've had locking hubs on all my 4WDs, and they are a great addition. I'm glad I could do it on the Trooper, & I'll never go back.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Yeah I guess if I had a part-time 4wd system in my Truck it would be the same as getting out and locking the hubs. I purposely bought my truck because it has AWD (once you drive an AWD vehicle you never go back) so for me locking hubs defeat the purpose of the TOD system. I don't expect the wear and tear on my Trooper to cause the front boots to go. On my ' 97 Rodeo I drove it 120K miles w/o having to do any repairs...

    -mike
  • mpelmpel Member Posts: 23
    Love my '99 S!! Also like the rear door concept. But the one thing I find a bit annoying is the little locking arm for the big door. If you unload anything from the back, you need two hands to close the door! This in no way detracts from my enjoyment of my truck, just a thought about redesign ideas.
  • tistevetisteve Member Posts: 142
    I agree with your logic about the wear and tear and the mileage, I just don't think your average SUV owner would want the inconvience of having to get and manually lock them. I also understand that the hubs don't affect the TOD, but if they're not locked, the TOD is useless. Here is an example of how I used mine last year, where I would not have gotten out to lock them in. I had left work during a light icy rain, didn't seem too bad. As I was in heavy traffic, I noticed my rear wheel starting to spin whenever I accelerated, so I just flipped my transfer case shift lever into 4hi and then it gripped like a champ. If would have had to have locked them in manually, I would not have done it because I was in heavy traffic and would not have risked getting out of the vehicle on a slick road. I love my "on the fly" engagement ability.
    Just curious, what do you suppose the average life span of the CV joints, boots, etc? I have had numerous front wheel drive cars and usually the boots would go about 80-100K, the joints shortly thereafter, but those are the primary drive wheels. On a truck, most of the time your using the rear wheels and only the front when in 4WD. I realize they are spinning all of the time, but I would think the lack of load most of the time would prolong the life span, maybe well past 100K? Also, the boots don't spin and are there all the time wearing out whether or not the hubs are locked.
  • buckeye74buckeye74 Member Posts: 4
    DOES ANYONE KNOW IF I CAN DRIVE IN POWER MODE ALL THE TIME WITHOUT HURTING THE TRANSMISSION? ALSO DOES IT GET WORSE GAS MILAGE THAN NORMAL MODE?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    The Power mode can be left engaged. It moves the shift point from about 4500-5000 rpms up to 6000-6500rpms. It will result in brisker shifts and lower gas milage if you hit the gas hard all the time.

    -mike
  • offroaderoffroader Member Posts: 23
    First of all, if I had been in your situation I would have locked the hubs before I got in and drove away. You said the weather was "light icy rain" - that's a hint. It's just normal for me, because I have owned 4x4s (with hubs) all my life. It's also just common sense - what's the point of 4WD if you don't use it?

    Second, the CVs and boots do spin all the time if the vehicle is not equipped with hubs. When the vehicle is not in 4wd, it is true the amount of wear on the CVs is reduced. However, there is some wear because they have to flex over bumps and during turns. Also, the wear on the boots is the same regardless because they don't carry any load - they just spin. Also, I have seen many boots that looked good from a casual glance, but on close inspection they had all kinds of holes in them and the grease was completely gone. This is bad for CVs. I want mine to last as long as possible and to be there when I need them.

    I just don't see any disadvantages of hubs, and many advantages. For those who live in places where the weather is icy in the winter, it's no problem to just leave the hubs locked all the time so that, indeed, all that is required to have TOD is to hit the dash switch. The other 9 months of the year you can unlock the hubs for less wear, better motoring, and more long term reliability of your excellent machine.

    I guess it's just a basic philosophic difference, tisteve.

    regards,
    offroader
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    in NON-wintery conditions. I like having a 15%/85% split in torque. I can feel the different even when driving in regular dry weather. Maybe it's just me, but on a few occasions I've driven after having it in 2wd and after about 1/4 of a mile i immediately notice that the TOD is not engaged, without even looking at the dash light.

    -mike
  • duktrooperduktrooper Member Posts: 78
    For those of you that have upgraded to Pirelli's Scorpian AT's, which model have you gotten...the P265/75/16's or the LT265's? I owned a set of Pirelli P245/70/16's before on my last Trooper. Loved the ride and the grip, but the tread depth was only 13/32 and they wore out relatively quick.I'm interested in ride experiences or comparisons.
  • tistevetisteve Member Posts: 142
    Do the CV boots spin? I thought they were stationary, and CV joint inside the boot is what spins. But, obviously I have never looked at the boots while driving (kinda hard) so I'm not sure.
    I am also curious about the $115, was that for both hubs, or each? That's a pretty inexpensive re-do either way. I would have thought they would cost more.
  • radman6radman6 Member Posts: 81
    A friend of mine who manages a body shop shared this tip with me on CV boots.

    If you want to make your CV boots last longer - clean them every once in a while (while washing your vehicle) and spray them down with silicone spray. It only takes a couple minutes and can add years to your CV boots. Silicone prevents them from drying out and cracking - the major cause of failure.

    Here's another tip - if the boot fails and starts leaking grease - get it replaced immediately before the lube is gone and the joint runs dry. If you run it too long you'll have to replace the whole NV joint assembly which is much more expensive.
  • john303john303 Member Posts: 14
    i went with the 245/70/16's on a 94 "S". I dont think they have to be larger...personally
  • offroaderoffroader Member Posts: 23
    Yes, both the CVs and the boots spin all the time, unless the vehicle is equipped with locking hubs. Take a close look, and you will notice that the boots are physically clamped onto the driveshaft on the inboard ends and the outside of the CV on the outboard ends. Try this - put a small chalk mark on the boot, roll the vehicle down the driveway about 2-3 feet, and look to see if the location of the mark has changed. It will. This will tell you that without hubs, the boots and CVs rotate all the time. When I roll my Trooper down the driveway now, the mark would remain stationary.

    Good tip about cleaning the boots. Yes, I think it might help to clean the road gunk off once in a while, just like any other rubber part. And yes, absolutely have the boots replaced when they do crack in order to conserve the CV, which is by far more expensive to replace. With a little care, and a little luck, now I may never have to replace the boots as long as I own it.

    The price of $115 plus tax is for the pair of hubs. They are not tremendously complex, hence the reasonable price.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    offroader, that's good info you've provided. I don't plan to do this on my own Trooper because I lack the ability for a job like that. But I can understand that there really are no disadvantages to running that kind of setup, and plenty of advantages.

    TOD is still available when you need it. The only thing you need to remember is to lock the hubs before you start driving. It's not that hard to do, either. If it looks like slippery weather, you lock 'em; otherwise you leave them unlocked.
  • cake34cake34 Member Posts: 1
    I bought a new 00 Trooper LS 4x4 in 08/00. I've put about 2600 miles on it. Since about 1700 miles an annoying vibration started in the windshield area. It only happens at certain speeds. Of coarse the dealer has no clue of any other Troopers w/this problem. Can anyone help me out with this?? I remember reading a posting about this problem some time ago,but forgot the solution.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Or is this under the dash?


    Check the FAQ page on http://isuzu-suvs.com


    I think one issue is the isuzu bug guard smacking the fenders @ speeds over 60mph, and another is the fuel line hitting the firewall in cold weather.


    -mike

  • gpm5gpm5 Member Posts: 785
    Good info on the boots. What does CV stand for anyways, if I knew I must have forgotton.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    CV = constant velocity. That's a good question for the Friday Freeway trivia chat.

    Steve
    Host
    Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards
  • mpelmpel Member Posts: 23
    I thought I read (owner's manual?) that a '99 Troop comes with a first-aid kit? I looked for one to no avail. Anyone know where it might be?
    Also found out something strange; I can turn my Isuzu stock stereo ON by pushing the AM/FM button just to the right on the volume knob! Kinda fun:)
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    They offered em to new owner's in '99, you had to call up and order it from Isuzu after you got the car. Some 2000 owners called and got the leftovers...

    -mike
  • centralcentral Member Posts: 51
    Offroader, a big thanks for the wake-up call regarding hubs. I just assumed that my 1999 Trooper had autohubs like my old Pathfinder. Thanks to you and a inspection of my vehicle I now know better.


    I also just finished ordering my Superwinch hubs for $97 including postage from http://www.hotrod-offroad.com. I am hoping they will provide a good service at this seemingly very good price.


    I found an article which seems to cover the installation at http://www.outdoorwire.com/4x4/isuzu/. I would appreciate any tips that you may have learned from your installation as this will be a new item for me to tackle.


    Again, thanks for the heads up.

  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Didn't have auto-hubs....

    It had the same system that the trooper has on it. auto-locking hubs. That is what the Trooper and all other SUVs have on them. Let's not get carried away here on the hubs issue. No cars sold in the past 10 or so years have manual hubs, they are almost all auto-locking hubs, which never fully disengage.

    -mike
  • centralcentral Member Posts: 51
    My 1988 Pathfinder still has "Automatic Free Running Hubs" from the factory. In fact that EXACT wording is clearly stamped on them. These hubs disconnect, after moving in reverse about 20' after going out of 4WD, such that the front CV drive axles then do not move when in 2WD.

    I do not claim to be a hub expert. My limited understanding is that this is the type of system originally used on most all auto hubs (i.e. fully disconnecting). The current shift on the fly systems use a hub drive flange which is bolted to the axle resulting in the front CV's always turning (but only driven when in 4WD).
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I thought you said '98, that's why I said in the past 10 years. All the "shift on the fly" systems don't have unlocking hubs. Nor does any system like TOD that is meant to be used Full Time. Sorry for mis-reading the year...

    -mike
  • possum10possum10 Member Posts: 1
    I get a noise above passenger side at ~70 mph, sounds like rubbing of trimstrip against glass. Truck is in dealer's now for checkup but I forgot to mention it. Seems to happen only in warm weather tho, and it has been cool here in SoCal so no noise lately

    Tom
  • sahara111sahara111 Member Posts: 51
    I received the new OME shocks (N15 rear, N65 front) on Friday and had them installed on Saturday at 4 Wheel Parts & Wholesalers.

    First off, these shocks are just outstanding - better than I anticipated. I had been advised by 2 different sources (including ARB USA) to go with the N15/N65 version which is described as "firm" - vs. the other version described as softer, etc. Let me say this: the N15/N65 is DEFINITELY the way to go - these are in no way harsh, hard, unforgiving or anything like that. It is obvious this is a very compliant, robust, professional and well built product.

    I have now experienced 4 different combos on my '99 automatic Trooper:
    - stock original suspension (dangerous in my opinion...);
    - Edelbrock IAS shocks w/stock springs and torsion bars (better, less roll, less nose dive, more high speed control, but still not able to avoid bottoming out); 2 of the Edelbrock IAS developed leaks...
    - Edelbrock IAS with Sway-A-Way torsion bars and OME progressive coils (better yet, but unloaded front was slightly harsh and rear slightly bouncy, loaded it road and cornered quite well); 1 of the rear Edelbrocks broke as they apparently are not able to handle a mediocre lift of 1.5";
    - OME Nitrochargers with the OME coils and Sway-A-Way torsion bars: this is THE way to go! I should have bought the OME shocks from the get go. It must be their 9-stage valving or something, but these things seem to "know" how to ride perfect in every situation and on every surface. They are great - sharp, hard cornering (LESS roll than even the Edelbrock!!), solid braking and no nose dive yet VERY SMOOTH, excellent at highway speeds as they seem to eat up any kind of bumps, imperfections, etc, better over railroad tracks, and so on and so forth. And these things are really BUILT compared to the Edelbrock - in fact, it's not really a fair comparison - except the OMEs are cheaper!!

    If you want a wonderful, secure, extremely controlled yet compliant ride - then don't screw around - just get the OMEs right away.

    Finally, I'd like to publicly thank the 4 Wheel Parts people - they actually gave me credit back for the Edelbrocks and only charged me for the installation and shop fees! This is great service and the way to treat return customers such as myself. They also had the best price on the OMEs that I could find, and they delivered the product on time as they said they would. Great service.

    Thanks, and sorry for the "wordiness" of this.
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