Yes, it's just a plastic cover. I think that the Troopers will fare well against any other car/truck with same or smaller weight. Crushing into a solid object is an entirely different problem, though. The reason the airbags didn't deploy in the cases above could be that there wasn't enough deceleration to trigger the sensors.
Have "bumpers" behind the plastic covers. Just sheet metal. They aren't required to have them since they are trucks rather than cars, this helps save weight. Those 2 frame rails will protect you plenty IMHO. Not to mention all that plastic and sheet metal will absorb the impact.
I took my truck out for a 150 mile trip before the family got up on Saturday. I have been concerned that my mileage was very low all winter. Well, I got 17.3 mpg over mostly highway, but some stop lights and around town, etc for the trip, so I guess that was a non-issue. My A/T tires were smooth and quiet, though they do pick up road grooving more than my old highway tires.
The problem with it taking 1/2 mile to "warm up" i.e. shift properly and drive without resistance, is still happening, even with it now being above 40 degrees on the overnights. I will have to get my axle, diff and trans fluid levels checked. unless I can pinpoint it.
Paisan, did you get your bar on? How about some pictures.
We just had the annual 4WD show in Sydney this last weekend. Holden had the new Holden Rodeo (Isuzu pickup)there with the Trooper's 3.5V6 in it. Also, the JackV8 was there, which is the "chopped" version of an Isuzu Trooper with a GenIII 5.7L V8 in it, 4L60 transmission, huge Mickey Thompson tyres and a roll cage. This vehicle was awesome to look at and so well executed it could easily have been a production model.
Sadly, it won't be.
Paisan ... Is the ARB bar you bought, the ARB deluxe steel bullbar?
What do you mean by shifting properly and driving without resistance?
My Jackaroo tends to not change up gears if you drive it gently below 40km/h within the first 800m or so, on first startup of the morning. Particularly in cooler weather. Because it's just hanging there in first gear, it feels like it's resisting.
However, once you lay the boot in and get it up to 50km/h it starts shifting as it should.
I never considered this to be a defect. Possibly a design fault, but nothing serious.
Yup I put the bar on today! It looks awsome and was a piece of cake to install. Air tools are great Although I do need to add an additional bolt to it because one of the bolts that goes into the frame is too short for the USDM troopers. Basically the problem is that the bolt is supposed to get bolted on the inside of the frame to the bracket. Well our frame rails have endcaps welded on them which makes it impossible to bolt it inside, however there is a hole on both sides so that a longer bolt can be inserted and fix that problem.
I'm hooking up the orange turn signals with my parking lights. They will make nice fog lights Since we don't need em as turn signals since the original bumper doesn't have em
Held on the lisc. plate with zip ties as well since the holes are in the wrong spot for it. Also the "wide-body" version is great meets the flares perfectly.
Cold ATF: Just was reading today in the service manual (cause my buddy is gonna do my ATF and TOD fluid this week) that the AT won't shift smoothly til it hits 100degrees F. So that can be part of your "problem".
I started thinkig about who will do Isuzu warranty and service work when all of the dealeships have closed their doors. The reason I bring this up is, after 4 trips to the nearest dealership 25 miles away, and one of the few left in Los Angeles, to have an idle surging problem corrected, I wondered where else could I go. Three mass airflow sensors and three ECU's, they still can't correct the problem. And, after a lengthy discussion with the master tech, he informed me he was changing careers because "the writing's on the wall", Isuzu's future that is! It seems he grew tired of spending 8 hours a day diagnosing "check engine light" problems that couldn't be resolved, and getting little help from the Isuzu tech Rep. for the southwest, because that job was eliminated by Isuzu. I don't know what it's like elsewhere, but I would guess at least 75% of the dealerships that sold Isuzu in the greater LA area,have cut them from their product line. Just posting my thoughts, didn't intend on rambling, but don't think I could've shortened it any. Cbreck
Savvas....that is exactly it. It I get on it right away and "force" it to shift it will, but if I go slow...the first 100 yards it is either is L or 2 and doesn't seem to shift, then it gets slowly better. If I come off the gas it slows quickly...it feels like an older car with the choke on? 1/4 to 1/2 a mile and it is fine. Glad to hear someone else has the same thing. It seems to really only do it once a day...or if it sits for more than 6 hours and it is cooler outside.
Paisan, the holes are not even, I think they are meant for a winch, not license plate. I had the same issue when I made my fishing rack, I had to set the bolts unevenly apart to make it hang center.
I had to get M12x110 (if memory serves me correctly) nuts, bolts and washers to fit where you need the longer bolts. I also used several flat steel and rubber washers to make a sort of bushing where there will be the gap between the frame rail and the bar. I found the large crescent washer/packing thing, didn't really work so I also put some larger diameter washers there too.
Cbreck, One advantage to the 1999 and a 5 year warranty...I don't have to worry about where/how to get warranty work done 5 years from now.
If the dealerships keep closing, you may find yourself having to "go farther" to get warranty work done. The point I am making is.. the dealerships are not owned by Isuzu, they are privatley owned. Most dealership carry multiple product lines, and many are getting out of the isuzu business before the end comes, so to speak.
Hey everybody. i had recently taken my 1997 trooper offroad. used the 4wd system first time. followed the system procedures. not hard driving but some easy hills-sand etc. anyway i noticed a pink fluid leak on my driveway the next day. checked it , seems to be on my front propeller shaft. and onto what i think is my oil pan.( the vehicle is new to me - haven't a repair manual yet) any clues as to what caused this leak .. besides that, the truck ran flawless. thanks.
Sean - The Trooper's engine computer keeps the transmission in a lower gear when it's cold to warm the transmission fluid up. The transmission shift points become "normal" once the tranny reaches a certain temperature. This is a design feature, not a defect.
Yep I figured the holes are for the winch or what not, the zip ties are doing a good job so far
Thanks for the heads up on the spacers for that extra bolt. We'll play around with it sometime this week or next, definitely before I connect up a tow strap.
I understand and am faced with the same thing. However, since the 99 has a shorter warranty...I will be paying a local shop rather than having to hunt down warranty work.
That makes sense, for the wait for the final upshift at 25-35 mph, however the first 50 feet feel like the engine is rev'ing higher than power is getting to the wheels. I am in low, yet it is like starting in 3rd in regards to power. That's why I say it is like an old tractor with the choke on, the rpms are higher, yet it barely crawls along.
I've had the tranny fluid level checked and it is supposedly fine, but the viscous coupling doesn't seem to working right if it is below 40 degrees outside for the first 50 feet or so. If others are experiencing the same thing, then that gives me some comfort, but it seems strange.
After a quick search on GM transmissions, the only thing I can find regarding the problem I have in the first 40 feet would lead me to think the last time I had the trans fluid changed, they used the wrong viscosity?
It seems reasonable from what I read that the torque converter/trans is doing its job while is spins to warm up without applying power. I will have to hunt down my paperwork and possible get a flush done on the trans and TOD system.
Put mine on yesterday, too. The directions could have been a little better, but I do a lot of technical writing and so am critical of such things.
I was interested to hear you had to get longer bolts for the "packer" attachment point, I did too. A 4" bolt from the hardware store worked nicely through the frame rail. The directions didn't really say where the packer piece was supposed to go, but we fiddled around with it until it became evident.
I was able to get the turn signals wired without too much trouble. I think it is good to have it working as a turn signal, in case somebodies view of the main signal is blocked by the bullbar.
Do you see any shake from the bullbar on bumps and such? I see some...of course it is bolted to the frame, so if the frame flexes the bumper will move too.
I don't notice anything out of the ordinary regarding shakes, but it does respond to the road since it is attached to the frame.
I also used black rustoleum paint on all the bolts after I was sure the install was final and secured.
I emailed ARB regarding the longer bolts, packer thing, and the bushing I created...they were very excited, a technical rep called me back to find out the details so they could fix it and correct directions, etc. I guess nothing ever came of that.
Mine only shakes a little bit when I hit a bump or pothole, otherwise it is pretty solid. I have yet to do the "drilling and pinning" part, but I doubt that would change the shaking any.
Regarding install, I also had to put some large washers between the bracket and the large hole (the lower rear-most location where the goofy offset and crescent moon washers are used). Did you guys have a gap there? I used 3 washers to fill the gap.
I think it is just to keep the bumper in position if you bang it on a rock ledge or something. Since all of the other mounting bolt holes are slotted for adjustability, a hard enough impact could conceivably move it, perhaps even enough to hit the body.
No, I don't use the parking brake on a consistent basis, and it happens only when cold. If I go out 2 hours after parking, the truck is fine.
The crescent thing didn't work well with my install. I think the pinning is just for added strength. Not only for hard impacts, but since it can be used as a tow/snatch recovery point, handle an impact with a kangaroo at up to 40 mph (approx.), etc.
My daughter recently bought a '98 Trooper. She says the owners manual doesn't specify a change frequency for ATF, only that it should be checked? at a given frequency. How often should it be changed? TIA.
Has the roof design on the Trooper changed between 1996-2002?
I have been thinking of options for a Trooper roof rack, and might have a lead on some roof rails originally found on a Isuzu Bighorn. The problem is that finding 2002 roof rails (my model year) is near impossible. I'm thinking that any roof rails from 1996-present would work. Any thoughts?
Also SBCOOKE - My 2002 experiences the same early start hesitation you described. My solution has been to let the truck "warm up" several minutes before leaving. I'm glad others have experienced this. Reminded me of an old carbureted Ford pick-up I had once. Except the Trooper runs fine after 1000 ft, and the Ford never ran fine:)
A lot of 4WD's in the trendier areas such as Toorak in Melbourne, or Double Bay and Vaucluse in Sydney all have bullbars. And they never venture past the local shopping centre.
In Melbourne these 4WD's are nicknamed "Toorak Tractors".
Which bars are considered the "toughest" in australia? I love the ECB stuff that I was importing, but the frieght was so much I couldn't even afford one for myself! That's why I went with the ARB one.
I was in Adelaide for a few months. We drove to Wilpena Pound, it was a beautiful trip. I saw several sedans with grill guards, but come to think of it, they were the wimpy ones. I was most impressed with the tractor trailers. Lots of lights and plenty of frontal protection. Very intimidating to meet them on a deserted road at night. I guess I've seen Mad Max one to many times.
JAOS has alot of aftermarket items for Troopers/Jackaroos, but their prices are extremely high. I've noticed that most of their products have a brushed satin finish or are stainless steel. Most of the products in the states are black power coat or chrome (bling bling). Is JAOS considered a high end product in Australia?
Savvas - I saw a group of eight subaru station wagons heading out for a 5 day trip. They were loaded down with multiple spare tires and plenty of extra water & gas. I was impressed with fact that these vehicles were modified for function vs. style. You would not believe the number of so-called "off-road" trucks here in the U.S. that are lifted 6" or higher with huge mud tires and lots of chrome. All Georgia boys have a little bit of red-reck in them, so I can understand or least tolerate the monster truck scene (as long as they are not destroying our trails), but I prefer the utility and on nonsense modifications I saw on that group of Subarus. I think most Trooper owners on this board modify for function and utility. As far a style, well that just comes standard with the Trooper.
Hey Mike - I know you are a big Subaru fan. Do you think these real "outback" station wagons were off-roading without a low range, or is there a modification available for them? These were the the old style wagons with the all-wheel drive lever that looks like an emergency brake.
Subarus in the non-USDM get an optional low-range on their transfer cases. Only in the US doe we not get low-range on ours. There are skid plates out there and spring kits available for subies to get lifted. I've had several Foresters and Outbacks down in the pine barrens (pics at http://isuzu-suvs.com ) with us and they always did fine on the trails.
Those old ones you speak of were actually not AWD, if there is a lever they were 4wd, just like the part-time systems found on trucks.
Yup, you can get a low range in Australia, though the gear reduction is about 17%, not quite the torque multiplication you get on a Troopa.
Springs and lift kits can lift Subies about 4", plus you can get tires. Since they are 4 wheel indy you're lifting even the rear diffy and front cross member off the ground, and they'll clear about 11-12", not too shabby.
Again, that may not seem like a lot compared to a Trooper, but remember Subies are feather weights, and "float" nicely on sand.
The lucky Aussies also get optional front skid plates (US models have a rear diffy protector only - I have one). I might get one from Primitive if I decide to go in that direction once my Forester is out of warranty.
My Forester is mostly stock, I basically have bigger and wider than stock tires, wheels with an offset that puts them farther from the body, and the rear skid plate. That's been enough for Pine Barrens runs, lots of beach driving (but no steep dunes), driving around farms and orchards, stuff like that.
No rock crawling, of course. Plus the angles of approach and departure are pretty poor with the stock bumpers. But they're fine for light duty fun.
I think it's generally accepted that the steel ARB is the toughest bar in the country. Depending on the vehicle, it's the only bar that can have a winch fitted directly to it, without the need for a steel cradle. TJM would probably rate second.
The alloys, such as ECB and TJM have their advantages especially in weight saving. However they are "softer" than the steel ARB.
We also have an interesting one called the Smart Bar which is actually Polyethylene. I watched a demonstration of one being driven into a lightpole at about 40km/h. It buckled in the middle. But about half an hour later it had mostly straightened itself out. Still, I would n't want to hit any siginificantly sized animal with it. I don't believe that it will offer enough protection to the vehicle. The bar might straighten itself out in an hour, but the vehicle will still be crippled.
The Subaru Foresters and some Libertys in Australia come with a low range, but only with manual transmissions. The autos are all AWD.
I really do like the Subarus. I think the latest Forester in GT spec would be a great second car for me.
since I posted on here, but I have a NEW question that I don't think I've seen addressed.
99' Trooper Luxury 49000 miles
Anybody else noticed a rear diffy, oil odor when you've been driving in hilly territory for a while? I've noticed it several times when walking around the back of the vehicle, it smells like differential oil, not really a burnt or hot smell, just the oily smell??? Not using 4X4 at the time. Any ideas?
Also noticed after ascending a mountain locally that the engine and driveline had a 'hot' smell to it, although there was no indication of overheating by the gauges on the dash. You know, that odor that comes from a strained mechanical system. It has happened every time I make that trip, and its a bit concerning. It sure doesn't seem like I'm putting a 'load' on it that should cause these symptoms. Its practically normal driving.
This concern about dealerships 'drying up' has me bugged. I'm gonna call my dealer today and see what his plans are. I know the market value of our beloved Troopers has fallen out the bottom of late. Such a shame for ISUZU. They are no less a vehicle than they were a year ago. I doubt you could give one away these days.
Saying goodby to the 1988 Trooper.....its engine gave up on 2 cylinders the other day. $1500 to rebuild or replace. Geeze the vehicle ain't even worth that. Sad part is I just put $1000 in the engine recently for a severe oil leak. Thought they had it fixed, but it didn't last a week. Goodby 88'...............
Could it be your breather line became detached and/or the diffy fluid is contaminated? The fluid might be slightly leaking in hilly terrain, or perhaps it's getting overheated and boiling the water in it out?
I also have a 1999 Trooper, Luxury, with approx 49,000 miles. I did note an odor the other day - an oil/rubber burning smell when I pulled into the garage. I just assumed it was the new tires I purchased but now that you have stated it, I will pay particular attention.
In the past, I have noted an oil burning smell after an oil change. Likely that some oil gets spilled during the change. Did you just have an oil change?
It is a shame that the Trooper resale is so poor but the high gas prices are making things worse. I've seen ads for 2002 4x4 Troopers with 15k for $16.5k or 2001 LS 4x4 with 31k for $13.9. 98-99 Troopers with less than 100k are still in the $8k-11k range.
one reason you may smell warm / hot oil is oil on the skid plate. A lot of quick change oil places don't remove the front skid plate and oil will collect there during the removal of the filter. You're probably just smelling left over residue from an oil change.
I have a 1995 Trooper-S 4WD Manual open rear differential with 140K and no problems. But since Troopers are selling so cheap I might pick up another one or swap if there is a compelling reason to do so. .. I shopped for the last of the 2002's last fall and was not able to get a test drive of a manual transmission one, so I could not compare that with the 2002 TOD Trooper. So I procrastinated and ended up just keeping my 1995 Trooper. .. I think TOD might be long term less reliable than a stick shift and I think it is fun to shift manually. .. Of all the years 95 to 2002 which ones are: 1.) most reliable? 2.) lifter tick noise immune? 3.) best MPG and best power? 4.) have the lower body mounts? 5.) best stock suspension, not mushy? .. Should I take advantage of the great Trooper deals now or try to just keep my 1995 running forever?
I think the 3.5L w/TOD is probably the best. Not there is much difference, maybe the drive by wire? But probably all post 2000 are the best because they have the longest warranty's. Just watch out for the few in 2000 that require a fuel line recall, if you go used, be sure to check if it was performed.
If you want to go with a Trooper, the new ones are a great deal, however there may be a decent used supply that could save you even more on a low mileage Trooper?
Of all the years 95 to 2002 which ones are: 1.) most reliable?
Hard to say, the engines/transmissions haven't changed all that much. I don't think any particular year has an advantage here.
2.) lifter tick noise immune?
The 3.5L does not have hydraulic lifters, which is the source of the ticking noise (which is more of an annoyance than anything).
3.) best MPG and best power?
Possibly a 5-speed model or a 2WD might get better mileage, but other than that there isn't much difference between models/engines. The 3.5L will have the best power.
4.) have the lower body mounts?
I believe this would have been 98+
5.) best stock suspension, not mushy?
Again, not much difference here. All the stock suspensions are pretty soft.
One note, the 5-speed models are usually the base model, so if you want the bells and whistles like leather/mult-adjustable seats, moonroof, you will probably have to get an automatic.
FWIW the auto tranny in the Trooper is pretty reliable by reputation.
I had noticed the same thing from my 98, so I crawled under to take a closer look, and it seems oil is finding its way through the seal on the output shaft (propeller shaft). I only notice the smell after long drives. It leaks just enough to leave a residue on the front of the rear diff. housing. I mentioned it to the dealership, and naturally, they couldn't find any leak.
Comments
-mike
The problem with it taking 1/2 mile to "warm up" i.e. shift properly and drive without resistance, is still happening, even with it now being above 40 degrees on the overnights. I will have to get my axle, diff and trans fluid levels checked. unless I can pinpoint it.
Paisan, did you get your bar on? How about some pictures.
We just had the annual 4WD show in Sydney this last weekend. Holden had the new Holden Rodeo (Isuzu pickup)there with the Trooper's 3.5V6 in it. Also, the JackV8 was there, which is the "chopped" version of an Isuzu Trooper with a GenIII 5.7L V8 in it, 4L60 transmission, huge Mickey Thompson tyres and a roll cage. This vehicle was awesome to look at and so well executed it could easily have been a production model.
Sadly, it won't be.
Paisan ... Is the ARB bar you bought, the ARB deluxe steel bullbar?
What do you mean by shifting properly and driving without resistance?
My Jackaroo tends to not change up gears if you drive it gently below 40km/h within the first 800m or so, on first startup of the morning. Particularly in cooler weather. Because it's just hanging there in first gear, it feels like it's resisting.
However, once you lay the boot in and get it up to 50km/h it starts shifting as it should.
I never considered this to be a defect. Possibly a design fault, but nothing serious.
I'm hooking up the orange turn signals with my parking lights. They will make nice fog lights
Held on the lisc. plate with zip ties as well since the holes are in the wrong spot for it. Also the "wide-body" version is great meets the flares perfectly.
Cold ATF: Just was reading today in the service manual (cause my buddy is gonna do my ATF and TOD fluid this week) that the AT won't shift smoothly til it hits 100degrees F. So that can be part of your "problem".
-mike
"Mmmm!!! V8 Jackaroooo!!!" Drool........
Just posting my thoughts, didn't intend on rambling, but don't think I could've shortened it any.
Cbreck
Paisan, the holes are not even, I think they are meant for a winch, not license plate. I had the same issue when I made my fishing rack, I had to set the bolts unevenly apart to make it hang center.
I had to get M12x110 (if memory serves me correctly) nuts, bolts and washers to fit where you need the longer bolts. I also used several flat steel and rubber washers to make a sort of bushing where there will be the gap between the frame rail and the bar. I found the large crescent washer/packing thing, didn't really work so I also put some larger diameter washers there too.
Cbreck, One advantage to the 1999 and a 5 year warranty...I don't have to worry about where/how to get warranty work done 5 years from now.
Tom
Thanks for the heads up on the spacers for that extra bolt. We'll play around with it sometime this week or next, definitely before I connect up a tow strap.
-mike
That makes sense, for the wait for the final upshift at 25-35 mph, however the first 50 feet feel like the engine is rev'ing higher than power is getting to the wheels. I am in low, yet it is like starting in 3rd in regards to power. That's why I say it is like an old tractor with the choke on, the rpms are higher, yet it barely crawls along.
I've had the tranny fluid level checked and it is supposedly fine, but the viscous coupling doesn't seem to working right if it is below 40 degrees outside for the first 50 feet or so. If others are experiencing the same thing, then that gives me some comfort, but it seems strange.
It seems reasonable from what I read that the torque converter/trans is doing its job while is spins to warm up without applying power. I will have to hunt down my paperwork and possible get a flush done on the trans and TOD system.
I was interested to hear you had to get longer bolts for the "packer" attachment point, I did too. A 4" bolt from the hardware store worked nicely through the frame rail. The directions didn't really say where the packer piece was supposed to go, but we fiddled around with it until it became evident.
I was able to get the turn signals wired without too much trouble. I think it is good to have it working as a turn signal, in case somebodies view of the main signal is blocked by the bullbar.
Do you see any shake from the bullbar on bumps and such? I see some...of course it is bolted to the frame, so if the frame flexes the bumper will move too.
I also used black rustoleum paint on all the bolts after I was sure the install was final and secured.
I emailed ARB regarding the longer bolts, packer thing, and the bushing I created...they were very excited, a technical rep called me back to find out the details so they could fix it and correct directions, etc. I guess nothing ever came of that.
Once it's set I'll let you know if it vibrates. My Hella 4000s fit! Yippie.
-mike
Tom
Regarding install, I also had to put some large washers between the bracket and the large hole (the lower rear-most location where the goofy offset and crescent moon washers are used). Did you guys have a gap there? I used 3 washers to fill the gap.
-mike
The crescent thing didn't work well with my install. I think the pinning is just for added strength. Not only for hard impacts, but since it can be used as a tow/snatch recovery point, handle an impact with a kangaroo at up to 40 mph (approx.), etc.
-mike
I have been thinking of options for a Trooper roof rack, and might have a lead on some roof rails originally found on a Isuzu Bighorn. The problem is that finding 2002 roof rails (my model year) is near impossible. I'm thinking that any roof rails from 1996-present would work. Any thoughts?
Also SBCOOKE - My 2002 experiences the same early start hesitation you described. My solution has been to let the truck "warm up" several minutes before leaving. I'm glad others have experienced this. Reminded me of an old carbureted Ford pick-up I had once. Except the Trooper runs fine after 1000 ft, and the Ford never ran fine:)
Don't be fooled by how cute a kangaroo looks. They are very stupid and and can inflict serious damage to a car when they hit.
Very little will survive a hit with a large kangaroo at anything over 20km/h. Including the ARB bars. The bar WILL buckle and become a throwaway item.
The intention of the bar is to hopefully still have a drivable car, despite the damage that will be inflicted.
The best way to avoid a kangaroo is not to drive at dawn or dusk in country areas.
But you shouldn't have this problem too often in the states.
-mike
A lot of 4WD's in the trendier areas such as Toorak in Melbourne, or Double Bay and Vaucluse in Sydney all have bullbars. And they never venture past the local shopping centre.
In Melbourne these 4WD's are nicknamed "Toorak Tractors".
I haven't seen one on a Merc sedan yet.
-mike
JAOS has alot of aftermarket items for Troopers/Jackaroos, but their prices are extremely high. I've noticed that most of their products have a brushed satin finish or are stainless steel. Most of the products in the states are black power coat or chrome (bling bling). Is JAOS considered a high end product in Australia?
-mike
Hey Mike - I know you are a big Subaru fan. Do you think these real "outback" station wagons were off-roading without a low range, or is there a modification available for them? These were the the old style wagons with the all-wheel drive lever that looks like an emergency brake.
Those old ones you speak of were actually not AWD, if there is a lever they were 4wd, just like the part-time systems found on trucks.
-mike
Springs and lift kits can lift Subies about 4", plus you can get tires. Since they are 4 wheel indy you're lifting even the rear diffy and front cross member off the ground, and they'll clear about 11-12", not too shabby.
Again, that may not seem like a lot compared to a Trooper, but remember Subies are feather weights, and "float" nicely on sand.
The lucky Aussies also get optional front skid plates (US models have a rear diffy protector only - I have one). I might get one from Primitive if I decide to go in that direction once my Forester is out of warranty.
My Forester is mostly stock, I basically have bigger and wider than stock tires, wheels with an offset that puts them farther from the body, and the rear skid plate. That's been enough for Pine Barrens runs, lots of beach driving (but no steep dunes), driving around farms and orchards, stuff like that.
No rock crawling, of course. Plus the angles of approach and departure are pretty poor with the stock bumpers. But they're fine for light duty fun.
-juice
The alloys, such as ECB and TJM have their advantages especially in weight saving. However they are "softer" than the steel ARB.
We also have an interesting one called the Smart Bar which is actually Polyethylene. I watched a demonstration of one being driven into a lightpole at about 40km/h. It buckled in the middle. But about half an hour later it had mostly straightened itself out. Still, I would n't want to hit any siginificantly sized animal with it. I don't believe that it will offer enough protection to the vehicle. The bar might straighten itself out in an hour, but the vehicle will still be crippled.
The Subaru Foresters and some Libertys in Australia come with a low range, but only with manual transmissions. The autos are all AWD.
I really do like the Subarus. I think the latest Forester in GT spec would be a great second car for me.
If any of you want to download images of the Jack V8, there's photos and concept sketches available at -
http://www.holden.com.au/www-holden/action/conceptcar?modelid=200- 04
Paisan ... These will look good on your site!
99' Trooper Luxury 49000 miles
Anybody else noticed a rear diffy, oil odor when you've been driving in hilly territory for a while? I've noticed it several times when walking around the back of the vehicle, it smells like differential oil, not really a burnt or hot smell, just the oily smell??? Not using 4X4 at the time. Any ideas?
Also noticed after ascending a mountain locally that the engine and driveline had a 'hot' smell to it, although there was no indication of overheating by the gauges on the dash. You know, that odor that comes from a strained mechanical system. It has happened every time I make that trip, and its a bit concerning. It sure doesn't seem like I'm putting a 'load' on it that should cause these symptoms. Its practically normal driving.
This concern about dealerships 'drying up' has me bugged. I'm gonna call my dealer today and see what his plans are. I know the market value of our beloved Troopers has fallen out the bottom of late. Such a shame for ISUZU. They are no less a vehicle than they were a year ago. I doubt you could give one away these days.
Saying goodby to the 1988 Trooper.....its engine gave up on 2 cylinders the other day. $1500 to rebuild or replace. Geeze the vehicle ain't even worth that. Sad part is I just put $1000 in the engine recently for a severe oil leak. Thought they had it fixed, but it didn't last a week. Goodby 88'...............
-mike
In the past, I have noted an oil burning smell after an oil change. Likely that some oil gets spilled during the change. Did you just have an oil change?
..
I shopped for the last of the 2002's last fall and was not able to get a test drive of a manual transmission one, so I could not compare that with the 2002 TOD Trooper. So I procrastinated and ended up just keeping my 1995 Trooper.
..
I think TOD might be long term less reliable than a stick shift and I think it is fun to shift manually.
..
Of all the years 95 to 2002 which ones are:
1.) most reliable?
2.) lifter tick noise immune?
3.) best MPG and best power?
4.) have the lower body mounts?
5.) best stock suspension, not mushy?
..
Should I take advantage of the great Trooper deals now or try to just keep my 1995 running forever?
If you want to go with a Trooper, the new ones are a great deal, however there may be a decent used supply that could save you even more on a low mileage Trooper?
I'd say 2000-2002 are best cause they are newest and will have the least miles on em.
-mike
1.) most reliable?
Hard to say, the engines/transmissions haven't changed all that much. I don't think any particular year has an advantage here.
2.) lifter tick noise immune?
The 3.5L does not have hydraulic lifters, which is the source of the ticking noise (which is more of an annoyance than anything).
3.) best MPG and best power?
Possibly a 5-speed model or a 2WD might get better mileage, but other than that there isn't much difference between models/engines. The 3.5L will have the best power.
4.) have the lower body mounts?
I believe this would have been 98+
5.) best stock suspension, not mushy?
Again, not much difference here. All the stock suspensions are pretty soft.
One note, the 5-speed models are usually the base model, so if you want the bells and whistles like leather/mult-adjustable seats, moonroof, you will probably have to get an automatic.
FWIW the auto tranny in the Trooper is pretty reliable by reputation.