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Isuzu Trooper

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Comments

  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I broke down and bought air-bags for the rear of the trooper. Should have em by friday. Trying to keep the rear from getting too low when loaded with the trailer.

    -mike
  • raydahsraydahs Posts: 449
    As it turns out, it was a clever marketing. However after digging a bit I found out they've decided to drop Isuzu as of 8/1. Basically, they went into the service history data base of existing customers, sending this letter to give former customers the opportunity to bail on the Isuzu line with them. The way it was explained to me, "Isuzu has shown us absolutely no reason to renew" (apparently it's very expensive and not worth the return on investment) and if you need warranty work done your up a creek. The closest dealer is 160 miles away, which will be a major pain for the locals, due to mountain passes covered in snow 5 months of the year. That's one of the reasons for sending it out, plus the opportunity to sell you something new.

    Their seems to be a trend with the dealerships dropping the product line. Just speculation, but it seems like back in 2000, Isuzu convinced the dealers to renew with the prospect of new products such as the Axiom, which had dismal sales figures. It will be interesting to see if more dealers up North give it up also.
  • schweikbschweikb Posts: 111
    I have a 1998 Trooper S Automatic with Part-Time (non TOD) 4WD (105K miles). When I turn the ignition on and the vehicle is in 2WD mode, the 4WD indicator light stays on like the manual says it should. But, once I start the engine instead of the light going off, it starts flashing (like when you disengage from 4WD to 2WD).
    When I push the button to engage 4WD the light goes steady and the vehicle feels and responds like it is in 4WD. Then when I push the button to disengage 4WD, the indicator light starts flashing and continues to do so as long as the engine is running, even though it feels like 4WD has disengaged.
    About a week ago I started smelling something like burning plastic when the engine was running. Then that smell went away and the flashing 4WD light began. I am wondering if there is a link. Was a relay or sensor burning out and it is now finally dead?
    Any help or ideas will be appreciated.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    My guess is that the part that disengages/engages the front axle is shot. Happens often on 4wd vehicles if they haven't been engaged/disengaged for long periods of time. I think it's about a $400 fix IIRC.

    -mike
  • schweikbschweikb Posts: 111
    Thanks.

    However, since the 4WD is actually engaging and disengaging would your suggestion apply? I get the fronts to spin gravel when the light is on, and then when I disengage and the light flashes only the rear has traction.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    They may not spin but they are most likely not fully dis-engaged. I had this problem on my TOD equipped vehicle (same front axle actuator as the PT models)

    -mike
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    They have come out with Heavy Duty OME springs now too? That might help the ride?
  • schweikbschweikb Posts: 111
    Thanks again. I see your point, that's why the light is giving the same flickering message "I'm trying to disengage."
    Question: Will I do much damage by continuing to drive with the light flickering, meaning partially disengaged? I have to go to about 150 miles to reach the dealer.
    Better to leave it engaged or flickering half-engaged?

    Thanks
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I'd leave it 1/2 engaged rather than fully engaged.

    -mike
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Yeah I'm going to go to the HD OMEs (not the expedition) as well, but the expedition ones are too stiff for off-roading.

    -mike
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    What are the expedition good for? The name would imply offroading?
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    They are great for australian highways. AKA rough roads at high speeds carrying loads.

    -mike
  • sdc2sdc2 Posts: 780
    Here is a guy who did one for his Trooper:

    http://myweb.cableone.net/bcanderson/trooper/hitch/hitch.html

    Enjoy!
  • chaser1chaser1 Posts: 20
    Slick - I like! Thanks!
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    That's pretty cool.

    -mike
  • sdc2sdc2 Posts: 780
    If you guys ever make out to Moab (zuzoo.org), make sure to talk to Bruce Anderson. Great guy and quite a character.

    He has a lot of other mods he has done to his Trooper on the website, here is a general link:

    http://myweb.cableone.net/bcanderson/trooper/96trooper.htm
  • bstone3bstone3 Posts: 97
    This guy is my idol - what a creative individual - His roof rack was my favorite - thanks for the site listing!
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    Never seen plastic drill bits before (grab bars section). You'd think they'd just flop over in the drill ;-)

    Steve, Host
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Well just finished up doing the fuel filter and an oil change on the trooper. Oil change wasn't bad once I got the oil filter wrench. The Fuel filter was cake too, except that even though I ran it 'dry' by pulling the fuel pump fuse, it had a ton of gas that poured out all over me and the garage! I was lucky I didn't spray it onto the exhaust. Then the stupid bolt that holds the filter in wouldn't thread back on smoothly. That's what I get for waiting to 60K to change it!

    Other than that she's all good. Put in Castrol Synthetic 10-40 instead of the Mobil 1 5-30 that was previously ran. Hopefully this will help the oil consumption problem a little.

    -mike
  • breakorbreakor Posts: 398
    did you remember to remove the gas cap? That will let more pressure off the tank. If you just had residual gas dripping from the filter welcome to the club.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I did not in fact take the cap off! That could have been it for sure. :) Definitely wasn't risidual, it was pressurized.

    -mike
  • wildbucwildbuc Posts: 88
    I'm getting ready to have my 99 Trooper transmission flushed and refilled. Is there a specific kind of Mobil 1 ATF to be used, or is there simply a generic form of Mobil 1 to be used in all auto transmissions? I contacted Mobil 1 about 2 weeks ago and they have not responded. What to you guys think?
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I'm planning on using Redline High-temp ATF in mine.

    -mike
  • serranoserrano Posts: 107
    The Trooper requires a minimum of Dexron II fluid. The Mobil One is Dexron III and Mercon certified, so it's good to go.

    Tom
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Posts: 843
    Be sure to do your homework on choosing what oil is compatible. Brake Fluid Example: IIRC type 3 (most common) is compatible with type 4 and 5.1 but not type 5. This kind of thing could apply to any fluid so be sure to read all about it.
    ..
    Paison, is your oil consumption mostly just when towing? My 1995 Trooper would only consume oil noticeably when towing.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Gear-oil is like brake-fluids in that regard as well. GL-5 does not superceed GL-4, Brake Fluid DOT 5 is fully synthetic and will eat up your rubber seals in the system. DOT 3, 4 and 5.1 are compatible. I believe Dextron III is compatible with Dextron II.

    -mike
  • #noname#noname Posts: 58
    Where is it locate - at 40K I need to change it - thanks - will also heed the open gas cap warning.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Since day 1. With the mobil 1 5-30 it went down to ~1Q/2000-2500 miles. I'm hoping the castrol synthetic 10-40 bumps it up to 1Q/3000 or less.

    -mike
  • chaser1chaser1 Posts: 20
    ...maybe I'm over-reacting, but I'm getting the impression that oil consumption can occur right off the dealer lot, or anywhere up to 60K or shortly thereafter.

    Straighten me out if I have the wrong impression (please), but if my '02 with 3.5K miles may start using oil - I'm going to royally pissed (at myself for not doing my homework and Isuzu). Is this issue common to all 2nd gen Troopers, or only the later years, hit or miss, or what?

    If I go syn oil right now, do I stand a fair chance of avoiding the issue, or at best, just minimizing it?

    Thanks all!
  • jimmyp1jimmyp1 Posts: 640
    keep in mind, as has been pointed out in numerous posts here, that this is by NO means an Isuzu-only thing. Some current Toyotas, IIRC, are doing the same thing. Most manufacturers say a quart/3k miles is "within tolerances". Perhaps what should be noted more prominently is that almost nobody here has experienced any problems because of it. I seem to have it less than most, under a quart/3k miles, but I haven't checked recently after towing more than normal. I'm not concerned at all.
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    My 1999 doesn't burn much...on long road trips (4+ hours at 65+ I have noticed about a 1/2 quart drop. Normal driving I don't notice any. I have 35K on mine (w/rebuild at 18K...long story).
  • bstone3bstone3 Posts: 97
    After 40K miles on 01 TOD and using Mobil 1 - maybe 3/4 quart every 5K miles - which is when I change the oil. Also the 265/70/16 Dunlops which I had installed on the Trooper are a real plus - improved cornering response and quiet nice ride - very noticeable improvement over the stock 245's -tires don't seem like they have to work as hard in a corner - plus the track is wider - and these tires are not considered premium - how they wear time will tell. However, you can easily tell the loss in acceleration due to the greater rotational mass of these tires - got em for free so no complaints.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Most manufacturers say up to 1Q/1000miles is "normal"

    I have 61K flawless miles (motorwise) on mine even with it consumint 1Q/1500 miles. I just keep on top of it and she runs like a top.

    -mike
  • breakorbreakor Posts: 398
    FWIW, my take on the oil usage is that the 3.5L engines have a tendency to burn oil. One theory is that the oil rings have too few/small oil drainback holes. Supposedly there is now even a new ring design to cure this.

    In any event, if you keep your oil, pvc and egr clean you likely not burn oil. At least that is my experience. Then again maybe I just got lucky and have a "no burner".

    On the other hand, once you start burning oil the situation can go from bad to worse as the engine rings, egr, and pvc foul even more and you burn more.

    If you don't check your oil levels and you have this problem you will not get any warning sign until it is too late. For example, you will not get a low oil pressure light. Your first indication will be as your engine seizes. The next sign will be the sound of your wallet emptying.

    If you check your oil frequently and you have the loss; change your oil, clean the pvc and egr, and try a fuel system cleaner. Also, get to a dealer and have them do an oil consumption test. AFAIK if you lose an engine AND your dealer is doing the consumption test Isuzu will pay for the engine damage. Otherwise the bill is on you.

    Just my $.02.
  • serranoserrano Posts: 107
    I have a '99. It has burned oil from day 1, synthetic or no. I use Mobil 1 10W-30. Definitely uses more when loading the engine, i.e., towing. I have come to accept it. The thing otherwise runs great, so to me it's not that big of a deal.

    Tom
  • raydahsraydahs Posts: 449
    I drove mine home from the dealership and changed the oil to Valvoline SynPower 10-30. From day one it's burned 1/4 qt. per 1k miles. At 70k I tried Valvoline MaxLife, it got worse. I started using Mobil 1 at 80k, same thing, oh well.

    On a positive note, I rotated my tires at 82k, my brakes still have .25" left on the pads!
  • chaser1chaser1 Posts: 20
    ...OK, if you think this is normal/acceptable I'll go with it and chalk it up to overreacting. Good tips about just staying on top of oil levels(realize it's a known characteristic in many cases), clean EGR and PCV.

    Sorry, obviously didn't read through all the posts with respect to the reference to Toyota engines - did it the lazy way, scanned until I saw an area of interest and focused on that...

    Thanks all!
  • wildbucwildbuc Posts: 88
    I plan to take tow my 2800 lb camper with my 99 auto Trooper out west sometimes soon from N.C. Since I will be driving long distances, should I have a transmission cooler installed?
  • wildbucwildbuc Posts: 88
    My 99 Trooper uses about 1 quart every 5K miles. This bothered me when I first bought the truck but it no longer concerns me. Very satisfied with my Trooper!
  • serranoserrano Posts: 107
    Transmission coolers can be a good idea if you tow a lot. However, you can mitigate the heating of the fluid by ensuring that the transmission shifts as little as possible and by keeping the torque converter locked. A locked transmission torque converter removes the fluid coupling and major source of fluid heating. If the transmission shifts often, switch to 3rd gear. The Troopers will also lock the converter in 3rd. Depending on terrain and the item you are towing, the transmission may shift some, but the less it shifts and unlocks the converter, the less wear and heat it will generate.

    By the way, my Trooper uses about 1 qt evert 2-3k. Has done so since new. A 1/4 quart every 5k would not have even raised an eyebrow.

    Tom
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    The Trooper's come stock with a heavy duty radiators installed as stock.

    If you check the option code plate in the engine compartment and have a "V05" you have a heavy duty radiator.

    Isuzu Option Codes
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I tow regularly 5K lbs about 300miles at a clip with the AC on and doing about 70mph. Hasn't had any heat problems yet. The stock rads have a cooler built into them so I wouldn't worry too much.

    -mike
  • breakorbreakor Posts: 398
    Like already noted the stock system seems to work fine. Instead of spending your time and/or money to install a cooler I suggest you change the ATF more frequently.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    Got a 99' Trooper and considering exchanging the engine for an 01' engine. What are the difficulties of doing this? Are they a direct changeout? Are all the electrical connections the same? I know the basic engine is the same, but there were some changes over the couple years there.

    What are your thoughts??
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I believe in '99 there was no drive-by wire. So the wiring and ECU issues will likely arise.

    -mike
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    When I had my 1999 rebuilt...I investigated all sorts of options...newer engine, Chevy small block v8, etc. Talking with several shops they all said that changing from the stock setup would be very involved and they wouldn't recommend it, and most wouldn't do the work.

    Now if you get the newer engine, but put the 1999 intake/fuel injection system on it, that would be possible, but I would imagine that is the exact same thing as getting a 1999 engine?

    I think the drive by wire and transmission were different in 2000+. Those would probably be the major issues.
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Posts: 843
    My 1995 had a single catalytic converter. The sensors for emissions on the exhaust from year to year might be different in how they talk to the engine computer.
    ..
    Someday soon, smart sensor technology is coming. Then, the sensor itself will have enough smarts inside to figure out how to give the engine computer what it needs. instead of a voltage level output, the sensor will say "Helo computer, I am an O2 sensor model number ABC123 and I am alive and well today, since I am new here please configure me now..."
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Cause then you could buy generic items. They like proprietary items, that's how the car industry works. The sensor makers and parts manufacturers give the car companies the items at cost with "exclusive" rights to make the replacements :)

    -mike
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Posts: 843
    But politics in any company can cause it to make decisions that are not the best for its customers.
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Posts: 843
    I have a set of six T100 roof rack brackets from my 1995 Trooper that I want to re-paint (or replace with stainless) before bolting them to my 2001 Trooper.
    ..
    What is the best anti rust paint for steel roof rack parts?
    ..
    Does anybody know of someone that works with stainless steel that can make a set of T100 corrosion free brackets for me?
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