Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
A reporter would like to speak with you about your experience; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 7/25 for details.
A reporter would like to speak with you about your experience; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 7/25 for details.
Options
Comments
If you don't have the shocks already, check out the possibility of these Rancho RS9000X. $250.00 isn't too bad, you could probably go to the store and get the same deal w/free installation. http://www.4wheelparts.com/
dave
I am thinking to adjust the steering box tomorrow by raising the front end off the ground and adjusting the nut so that the steering is firm---but not too stiff. While the Trooper is raised, I'll also check the wheels for wobble.
Am I on the right track folks? Anything else needing checking?
-mike
-mike
The stuff on the bumper could be from the locking mechanism on the spare tire cover leaking onto it. Is thier rust on anything that could drip onto the bumper?
Adjusting the steering box will not necessarily cure this problem & may cause other steering issues if not adjusted properly - make very small adjustments to the screw. FWIW, I've only had to adjust 1 recirculating ball steering box ever & that was in my old '59 Triumph TR-3A back in the 60's. If your tires are good, I would first check the tie-rods & wheel bearings for any play.
About adjusting the steering box, I did that on my 86 Trooper with good results. It had about 140K miles on it at the time. I may not have done it right, but I raised the front wheels off the ground, and then tightened the steering box screw back and forth until it felt right. (Of course, I loosened the nut before turning the screw.) Too much tightning caused the steering wheel to stiften and be hard to turn, while too loose and the wheel felt sloppy. Anyway, I was very satisfied with the result. I drove that Trooper about 50K after that with no problems.
Thanks very much for the good ideas guys. I'll check for wheel play and for ball joint damage. I'll probably opt for an alignment and new tires if that proves necessary.
I proceeded to change mine on my 99' Troop this weekend, and it was not pretty. The plugs were seized in place, and it was touch and go to get them out. They looked pretty bad even though I only have 59000 miles on them. The center tip was pretty much gone and the gap had widened to about .080 inch. The threads pulled some material as they were backed out of the hole. I looked down in the well after the plug was out and saw metal dust near the edge of the plug hole. I vacuumed that stuff out before inserting new plugs. All plugs eventually came out, but it was scarry hearing that metal 'squeek' as the turned. It was evident there was some edge taken off the thread of the plug after it was removed. Thank goodness none of them galled to the point of not coming out! I thought the one by the brake booster was there to stay.
I went back with platinum NGK's with a good coat of never-seize on the threads. They all tightened down OK with about the same amount of torque being applied, and the engine ran like a top when I got finished with it. Seems to be stronger than ever, nearly as strong feeling as my 01' 2WD.
The serpentine belt change was a snap! took about 7 minutes to get the old one off and the new one on!
I'm gonna pull a plug on my 01' soon and see what kind of condition its in. I'm curious to see what the threads on its plugs look and act like as they are removed. It has 31000 miles on it already so the seize may have already taken hold.
I don't see any way the original plugs can last 100K miles, and if they weren't taken out until then, forget it, they wouldn't be coming out!
Also did the serpentine belt. Took about 7 min as well. Super easy. I will carry an extra one for the road just in case in the future.
-mike
Dave
Always use Anti-Sieze on Aluminum heads. From the Edelbrock site "When installing spark plugs into all Edelbrock aluminum cylinder heads, be sure to use anti-seize thread lubricant at all times". http://edelbrock.com/automotive/index.html
Finally, the product http://www.permatex.com/products/prodidx.asp?automotive=yes&f- _call=get_item&item_no=09126
what is the safe way to remove the coil pack to change the sark plugs? Thank You.
Am I still boxtrooper with this new way to log in? Just a test for myself sorry about that.
-mike
For reference, it was an '01 S with 37k, 2WD, burgundy, brand new tires, hidden hitch, step bars, and Monroe Reflex shocks. No oil consumption, ran like a top, never had any trouble whatsoever. Sold it for $11,000 to a neighbor.
My wife is now driving an '02 Eddie Bauer Explorer. She really wanted leather and a 3rd row seat.
So it is with great regret that I bid farewell to this forum and all of you. Best of luck and happy driving. Maybe I'll see on on the Infiniti or Explorer boards.
I changed my plugs with the engine cold, and still had the seizing problems. The plug threads appeared to be rusty, not just discolored due to heat. I'm not sure compression gases might have been getting up around them some way. I'm sure proud no threads were completely pulled, requiring a helicoil or head repair. I did apply a smudge of anti-seize to the rubber boot interior where the plug ceramic will meet it. Maybe that will prevent the seizing of the rubber for future replacements. I don't think there is a tool that could assist in getting the rubber boots off. There isn't enough space between the coil, boot and the head well to get anything in there to assist in the removal.
http://www.timbren.com/
-mike
Reviewing posts saw quite a few references to the Revos. I replaced orig. GY Wrangler AP tires last summer with the Bridgestone Dueler A/T Revos stock size form Tirerack. I can report great improvement now that I have a Chicago winter under my belt with them. I believe the improvement was much more than just new tire vs worn as well.
I also replaced OEM shocks with KYB MonoMax and have been very pleased with the switch. I now wonder if I should have gone with the adjust. as I will be towing a boat soon, but we'll see.
I also bought the poly bushing upgrade but have yet to get around to installing as the schocks made such a difference.
Finally, I installed the Yakima Q rack system which is removable to carry a cartop luggage carrier. It worked perfectly w/ only a slight increase in noise (no wind deflector). It was easy to adjust and attach. I got a good deal at Galyans. Mileage did suffer a bit.
That's about it...any Timbren comments still appreciated: Ease of install, ride change, etc.
Tires: Just replacing mine now. At 20K I replaced the stockers with Pirelli Scorpion ATs in 275-70-16. I just turned 72K miles and the tread is a bit thin in the centers (I ran them a hair too inflated) but otherwise they are still working well. I just feel at 52K miles on the tires it's time to replace them. I was gonna get the revos, but couldn't justify spending over $100 extra to get them v. the Pirellis.
-mike
Thanks.
On my 99' Performance pkg. the lettering was made from a thick foam type material, which is good (easy to take off). You could actually use your fingernail to do it, but it will be pretty sore for the next couple of days (that's how I did mine).
Apply the Goo gone to the top of the letters and let it soak in for a couple of minutes. Then carefully slide the putty knife under the letters and remove. Then you can use a little more Goo Gone to remove the existing adhesive (you will have an outline of where it used to be). It probably wouldn't hurt to apply heat to it also, but I did it without.
The painted decal might be harder. I've seen people that have removed it and it leaves a raised image where it used to be. But you could try the White polishing compound on that too.
Next, take the spare tire cover off leaving the spare five spoker exposed, and wait for many to comment on how nice your Jeep Liberty is!
How do I clean the EGR: (CEL code: P0401)
1 : Remove the EGR valve there are 2 holes the larger one is the one that supplies exhaust, flow don’t worry about it. The other is a vacuum port this is where exhaust gases are directed when the EGR valve opens, carbon deposits stick to the walls of the vacuum port and in time will restrict flow normally about 30,000 miles.
2: Check your local dealer for Intake cleaner ask about BG products all you will need is the intake cleaner (spray can), or head to your local parts place and pick up a can or carb cleaner that is safe for O2 sensors, find something to plug the larger hole make sure it will not vibrate and fall out there will be slight exhaust pressure on it but not much just be sure it is plugged real well because if not you may be surprised by a flame. Once plugged start the vehicle, spray intake cleaner into the vacuum port you may have to raise the idle to do or just open the throttle by hand spray until the can is empty.
3 : check your EGR valve push the pintle on the bottom be sure it moves in and out freely if not clean it don’t replace the valve once the pintle moves as it should reinstall the EGR valve disconnect battery for a few minutes or have code cleared.
Here is my own write up:
First I disconnected the Neg terminal on the battery.
I loosened the two screws on the intake, removed the tube that goes to the vavle cover, and then tried
to remove the one sensor plug. Which didn't happen, but there was enough slack in it to move the intake
and place it above the TB.
So I take a look at the butterfly valve and it doesn't look half bad. I open it and there is a bit of
carbon build up. So I sprayed that area, and wiped it out with a shop towl. Then I sprayed into the intake
and washed that down a bit too (.25 of the can). Next I saw the tube that Keith mentioned that cools cly #1,
and I ran a Test Tube brush about 4-5 inches down it with little problems. After that I put a shop towl in
the butterfly to let it air out.
Next I removed the egr, 2 bolts and one plug. And then remove the egr itself. I sprayed down the inside of
the egr and lots of flaky carbon washed out. I also, sprayed some down the egr tube and the hole next to it,
and ran the test tube brush down it a bit. Then I let the egr sit out and air out for about 30-40 minutes
before I installed it. Then I put everything back together.
Then the fun started. I turned the key for about 5 seconds and it would crank and crank and crank but nothing.
I tried again and the same thing happened. One more time, and it turned overed and stummbled for about 7-10
seconds. Then I started to give it a bit of gas and then it happened! The dreaded Flashing Check engine light!
NO! At this point it was running just fine so I took it for a spin around the block. Everytime I accelerated
the CE would flash. Hmmmmm, what is going on here? Luckly I live about 2 miles away from my dealership, I pulled
in told them that I had a CE flashing and they checked the gas cap, and asked if I had tried to restart the car
yet. Nope, so I did that, reved it a bit and NO CE. Yippy! So I drove home and the CE never flashed once!
Just a little FYI, +98 Isuzu have a solenoid to activate the sprung pintel in the EGR. The pintel is what gets carboned up, and needs to be cleaned. Diaphram EGR's, are actuated by vacuum lines to the EGR. Many mechanics are not use to this new solenoid activated EGR and assume that when there is a fault code, it is a bad diaphram.
-mike
Looks like I have a good Saturday project ahead of me.
Not sure which one it is on Paisan's site, or if added yet.
Thanks
Thanks,
Dave
einstein13@sbcglobal.net
Thanks
Where to buy Badges, Emblems and Logos?
Steve, Host
He's been MIA since last August.
tidester, host
-mike
Unless the driveshaft is bent or elsewise damaged physically, there isn't a lot that could be 'bad.' Don't think a bent driveshaft would be a warranty though.
Could be the journals / yokes where the U-joint bearings attach to the driveshaft are worn or damaged. Also, the spline that attaches from the driveshaft and front yoke / coupler to the transmission could be damaged. If anything was damaged, worn, or bent, you would feel a significant vibration at speed - maybe a clunking at lower speed. I think people who get a lot of clunking when they stop, the fix is the dealer 'lubes' the front spline. Perhaps the spline is worn.
Then there is the front driveshaft, which I think is CV joints - not sure if those are rebuildable on a Trooper?
Usually it is bad U-joints, but that (likely) wouldn't need to be ordered.
But here we go, i have questions, questions, questions, and if anyone is bored or has time to spare i would appreciate there knowledge on these subjects.
1) I can't for the life of me figure out my 4x4, i understand the TOD, basically AWD i guess. But i can't figure out how to shift into just regular 4x4 High, only the 4x4 low i can do which i know you push the lever as far to your radio as you can. Is there not actually a 4x4 high for when you just want all four wheels engaged instead of TOD? It's an automatice tranny by the way.
2) Like i said, it's a 2001, with 34,128 miles. I have about 3 months, or 16,000 miles left on warranty, and i am still very new with my trooper. I hear noises and feel vibrations that i am not sure if they are normal or not. I want to take it in to have it looked at before i leave my bumper to bumper warranty. I have no isuzu dealers around at all. So who honors my warranty, and what should i ask them to do and what kind of price should i expect?
3) just installed after market stereo, someone asked about the antenae and another mentioned IIRC?? and something mentioned what to do about the blue wire. Help! I've installed plenty of friends stereos, but nothing like this. and explain this box i found under the front passenger seat. Looks like an amp or something?
4) Lastly, i know i asked before and i am sorry, but i need tires bad, the noise while driving is horrible, i certainly hope it's the tires, otherwise i have a whole nother problem on my hands. Discount tire said it had about 2 or 3 months, just by looking you can tell they have to go. I need something quiet on the highway and roads, that will still give me a smooth drive and still some traction for winter. Oh yeah, i don't like paying 120 or 130 for a tire either.
4) Lastly it's got an oil change just done, and serpentine belt just changed what should i do for the engine, saw some stuff about spark plugs, clean some kind of EGR valve or something . . . got a 2,500 mile trip ahead and want her purring.
Sorry it's so long here folks, just know that i can get good, real answers here and i need them, and other suggestions if you got'em are cool. Thanks in advance
TOD is AWD + 4-High all rolled into 1. 4-Low is low range with a 50/50 lock between the front and rear driveshafts.
On the stereos you hook the power antenna wire up to the 2nd wire of the antenna harness. It has an amplifier for the in-glass antenna that works off the power antenna lead on the head unit.
Tires run in the $100-120 range I'd guess. Not sure what ones to suggest for on-road. I like my Pirelli Scorpion ATs
Check out http://Isuzu-suvs.com for pics of my Trooper!
-mike
Are you saying to cut the tip off of the smaller plug and wire it to my blue wire, and that will give me full use of the in-glass antenna's "amplifier"? Is that the box i am seeing under the front passenger seat? I only got a quick look but thought it was some kind of amplifier, i could be completly wrong though.