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I did a similar flush with my 1995 Trooper (when I had it) at the local Caddilac dealer. The 1995 never used any oil, but had the lifter tick. That oil flush did not cure the lifter tick until I drove another 300 miles. So I did not expect much from the oil flush on my 2001.
http://www.planetisuzoo.com/articles.htm?id=88
I would suggest having a shop do it, but it gives you a little insight into it.
thanks and keep on trooping-
mike
"Check Engine" Light And Diagnostic Connector
To access trouble codes, a test lead (white wire) and ground lead (black wire) are branched from the wiring harness under the center console near the ECM. With the ignition "ON" connect these two leads together. The "Check Engine" light will begin to flash code 12. Code 12 consists of one flash, a short pause, then two flashes. After a longer pause, code 12 will repeat two more times. This check indicates that the on-board diagnostic system is functioning. If no other codes are present, the cycle will repeat until the ignition is switched "OFF."
thanks for the tip-
mike
Many thanks in advance.
C
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Maybe your idle mixture needle valve is dirty not letting enough fuel in for idling. On my 1984 I tried to adjust idle mixture. But since mine was made for California, they plugged the hole over the needle valve adjustment with a slug of aluminum, so to adjust I would have had to drill the plug out. I replaced the throttle body instead to stop the air leak and that seemed to work.
The ECM is a computer that judges air/fuel ratio as rich or lean according to oxygen sensor output voltage. Based on oxygen sensor and other input data, the ECM generates a controlling signal to the fuel injectors that regulates "ON" time. Because fuel pressure remains constant, the ECM controls air/fuel ratio adjustments by varying injector "ON" time.
When operating in "Open Loop," the ECM defaults to preprogrammed values for air/fuel ratio control. The system is in "Open Loop" before the oxygen sensor has warmed up to operating temperature. When operating in "Closed Loop," the ECM continually adjusts air/fuel ratio according to oxygen sensor input and operating information received from various other sensors.
To give an extra margin of safety in the event of system failure, the output of the ECM will automatically switch to fail-safe mode if a fault is detected in any of these components and/or systems:
Oxygen sensor
Coolant temperature sensor
Throttle valve switch system
Air flow sensor system
If a malfunction develops in the micro computer within the control unit, the back-up control system will maintain the minimum necessary ECM functions to permit vehicle operation.
This system incorporates self-diagnostic capability that is monitored via a dash mounted "Check Engine" light. When the system detects a fault in a monitored component and/or circuit, the light will come on and stay on (while the engine is running), alerting the driver to seek service. With intermittent problems, the light may come on and then go out, but a trouble code will be stored in ECM memory if correct parameters are met. The technician can then extract trouble codes from the ECM that will aid in the performance of efficient troubleshooting and repair.
The provision for communicating with the engine control module is the Data Link Connector. The data link connector is located behind the lower front instrument panel. It is used in the assembly plant to receive information in checking that the engine is operating properly before it leaves the plant. The diagnostic trouble code(s) stored in the engine control module's memory can be read either through a hand-held diagnostic scanner plugged into the data link connector or by counting the number of flashes of the "Check Engine" malfunction indicator lamp when the diagnostic test terminal of the data link connector is grounded.
Data Link Connector
The data link connector terminal "1" (diagnostic request) is pulled "Low" (grounded) by jumpering to data link connector terminal "3", which is a ground wire. This will signal the engine control module that you want to "flash" diagnostic trouble code(s), if any are present. Once terminals "1" and "3" have been connected, the ignition switch must be moved to the "ON" position, with the engine not running. At this point, the "Check Engine" malfunction indicator lamp should flash diagnostic trouble code 12 three times consecutively. This would be the following flash, sequence: "flash, pause, flash - flash, long pause, flash, pause, flash - flash, long pause, flash, pause, flash - flash". diagnostic trouble code 12 indicates that the engine control module's diagnostic system is operating. If diagnostic trouble code 12 is not indicated, a problem is present within the diagnostic system itself, and should be addressed by consulting the appropriate diagnostic chart.
Following the output of diagnostic trouble code 12, the "Check Engine" malfunction indicator lamp will indicate a diagnostic trouble code three times if a diagnostic trouble code is present, or it will simply continue to output diagnostic trouble code 12. If more than one diagnostic trouble code has been stored in the engine control module's memory, the diagnostic trouble code(s) will be output from the lowest to the highest, with each diagnostic trouble code being displayed three times.
http://www.carspace.com/atfdmike/?50@@.599f9b85!photoLoc=.599febe2&skipNext=0&su- bmitNext=1&noThumbs=1#pic
http://www.carspace.com/atfdmike/.599febdc
Steve, Host
Steve, Host
Inside the ecm, the prom is the chip that has the information to operate the engine, trans, etc. It is a read only chip, so the only way to change it is to reprogram it, which a dealership MAY be able to do, but really not necessary if original part number is swapped 1 for 1. You mentioned in previous posts using a memory calibrator that came with the replacement ecm. The information (part number) you gave them should have determined the proper ecm to supply. Sorry, but that is about all I can tell you.
BULLETIN NUMBER SB90-02-001
ISSUE DATE January 11, 1990
GROUP FUEL
TROOPER II (KT) ECM COMPONENTS
AFFECTED VEHICLES
1989-1990 Trooper II (KT) models with V6 engine.
SERVICE INFORMATION
Some diagnostic procedures in the Driveability and Emissions section of the 1989 Trooper/ Trooper II V6 Workshop Manual Supplement require replacement of ECM components (ECM box, CALPAK or calibrator). Replacement ECM components for affected vehicles are now available from your facing Parts Distribution Center.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
Replace ECM box, CALPAK or calibrator (PROM) if required during Emissions and Driveability diagnostic procedure. If only ECM box is replaced, old CALPAK and PROM must be switched from old ECM box.
Install new ECM components as described on pages 6E2-C1-1 and 6E2-C1-2 of the 1989 Trooper/Trooper II V6 Workshop Manual Supplement (part No. 2-90989-033-0).
When replacing the calibrator (PROM), be sure to install the appropriate part number for the vehicle model year and transmission type.
PARTS INFORMATION
Part No. Description
8-01228-062-0 ECM Box
8-16051-459-0 CALPAK
8-16120-506-0 Calibrator (PROM) (1989 models)
8-16120-506-0 Calibrator (PROM) (1990 Federal M/T models)
8-16120-497-0 Calibrator (PROM) (1990 Calif. M/T models)
8-16133-970-0 Calibrator (PROM) (1990 Federal A/T models)
8-16133-982-0 Calibrator (PROM) (1990 Calif. A/T models)
IF pump is on briefly when key is turned to on, then move on to checking if there is spark at the spark plugs. If spark is there, I would suggest that fuel injection may be the problem. This is controlled through the ecm, but there are several modules and relays in between. I will post a picture of the relays under the hood that could also be part of the problem, but you really have to have a digital multi meter to check them and know what to look for. Here is a link to see the picture http://www.carspace.com/atfdmike/?50@@.599f9b85!photoLoc=.59a16cf4&skipNext=0&su- bmitNext=1&noThumbs=1#pic
Best of luck,
Sincere thanks,
Dave
Knock on wood, the Trooper impresses me with it's strong basic architecture and functional utility. My used 94 was years ahead of competitor's comparable models of the same year.
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I bought my first Trooper new in 1984, because it was big inside, tight and rattle free and light on its feet even with the little 1.9L engine, and because in 1984 the Trooper was $11K or so compared to $15K or so for the GM version. I even bought the extended engine warrantee figuring that the little 1.9L would not hold up, 201K trouble free miles later I sold it because of I wanted to upgrade to a Trooper with Air Conditioning.
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Next was my 1995 Trooper, this one was way more truck like and I really like the way the rear suspension is put together, it makes it a solid pltform for handling an eliminated trailer sway when towing. I made it even better by adding the OME suspension package including progressive rear coil springs and shocks. Unfortunately, a few seconds after my passenger was complementing how pristine my Trooper was, my 1995 Trooper met an early end at only 140K was rear ended so hard (the Volvo that hit it was crushed even its roof collapsed)the Trooper's air bags went off and the Trooper while it had been stopped was thrown into the pickup ahead, but even in adversity, the 1995 Trooper was able to drive home it drove really well in fact, but the insurance adjuster totalled it.
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So, even though my wife wanted to replace it with a small sedan, I bought a 2001 Trooper 30K used this time and put the OME suspension on it because I was used to the nice ride and good control. All of my Troopers have been stick shift type and I like that about them too. Now the 2001 is only has 80K on it and a long life ahead since they aren't making them anymore.
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The total price of these three Troopers is ($11K + $22K + $13K = $46K) easily $10K less than my brother paid for one Toyota Landcruiser, and about what many people pay for one SUV, so I feel that the economy of owning a Trooper can't be beat.
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I would buy another Trooper if they would get the diesel version into the USA, since in the UK the diesel Trooper gets 31mpg.
please if anyone have a wiring diagram of power windows electrical isuzu trooper 98 to scan/email to me ?? or where can i get that information ??
thank for you help !!!
http://www.carspace.com/atfdmike/?50@@.599f9b85
i will check righ now if those color of my wiring power switch is equal to the diagram.
thank for you time
but i am going to need the automatic door lock diagram too
please, if there is not to much problem, could you put in your album automatic door lock diagram.
thank again for your time....
INSTALLATION
Remove valve cover.(Unless you are absolutely sure you are on compression stroke for number 4 cylinder. Following these instructions, both valves for no. 4 cylinder would be closed (longest amount of valve stem above head showing on both at same time.)
Timing Mark
Move No. 4 cylinder to TDC on compression stroke. Be sure timing marks are aligned.
Apply engine oil to distributor O-ring.
Alignment Marks
Align distributor case setting mark with distributor shaft setting mark. I have posted a diagram at
http://www.carspace.com/atfdmike/.59a1b738
Fit distributor to cylinder head and align distributor shaft setting mark with cylinder head setting mark.
Refit valve cover.
Tighten distributor mounting bolt to:
14 ft lb (19 Nm)
Refit spark plug wires.
Check and adjust ignition timing. Refer to Powertrain Management/Ignition System/Adjustments .
Adjust ignition timing under the following conditions:
Engine at normal operating temperature.
Lights, A/C, and accessories turned off.
Engine idling at proper idle speed, with throttle valve completely closed and idle switch "ON" (see IDLE SPEED under ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURES ).
Transmission in "Park" or "Neutral".
Timing procedure:
Connect timing light.
Loosen distributor mounting bolt.
Adjust timing to specification: 12°BTDC @ 900 rpm.
Tighten distributor mounting bolt.
Recheck timing, repeat adjustment if necessary.
Hope this helps.
i have changed all the windows switch and all of them working perfect, from the driver's switch i can close and open all the windows.
about lock and unlock system.... from de passenger's swicth i can lock and unlock all the door.
but from the driver's switch i just try it but i can not to lock and unlock.....
those schematic (power lock diagram) that you have posted are very hardly to see what color are ?
please, could you scan again those pictures ????
i will appreciate it, and thank again for you time !