Dodge Sprinter Maintenance

green_hornetgreen_hornet Member Posts: 4
We're considering an RV based on a Sprinter van - can anyone list typical maintenance & intervals for the first 100K? Of note is oil specs, capacity, transmission maintenance (filter/fluid only, I hope). Are the oil filters difficult to get? I'm not a commercial mechanic, but I'm familiar with diesels, turbos, and maitain our family vehicles to a typical 200+kmi and want to make sure if we get this RV that we maintain it well.


  • kurt6kurt6 Member Posts: 22
    To answer all your question go to fl-sprinter or dodge website maintenance (you need Adobe Reader 6.0)

    Any Sprinter dealer has oil filters at $9 each.I execute myself all maintenance and service on my Sprinter,however stay away from any transmission service,you need special Mercedes training and equipment.According to Mercedes recomendation you need one lifetime transmission service at 80K cost between $300-$400.
  • green_hornetgreen_hornet Member Posts: 4
    Thanks - I see the reference in the manuals on the tranny maintenance, too. And it took awhile to get to the oil specs. Easy to find the weights, but most european mfrs have a non-SAE methods of specifying their oil quality. Nice enough, though, they put a list of qualified oils in the Dodge Owner's Manual. Is there an easy way to clear the maintenance light without paying Doge $50?
  • kurt6kurt6 Member Posts: 22
    <<<<<Is there an easy way to clear the maintenance light without paying Doge $50?>>>>>

    Key in position 2 press mil button two times,turn key back to position 0,press mil button again one time hold and turn key back to position 2 again,keep holding key for 10 second and U've clear maintenance record.Remember operation must be completed in fast 15 second.

    Oil:Myself always looking for a bargain I found the best deal at Wal-Mart,inhouse full 100% syn 10-30 10q $25 pluss $9 filter and U've saved $100 from any Sprinter service shop.(Wal-Mart do not know your location???)

    Remember 2 very importune facts,do "NOT" losse copper washer on drainplug and place big O ring in provided gruff.Big O ring is sealing on "OD" not on compression against bottom flange.
  • kenbakerkenbaker Member Posts: 239
    SAE CI-4+ is the designation you are looking for, fully synthetic is required if you are looking for the ASSYST system to calculate miles til next change.

    It is becoming more and more evident according to users of the vans and others with the same automatic transmission that you would want to check the transmission fluid level once in a while (not just waiting until 80K miles) and that the first change should be earlier (say 40-60K miles).

    Finally, you should expect to change fluid at 60K intervals forever as well.

    No, this is NOT required, but it seems to be best advice, especially for the higher loads of an RV chassis.

  • kenbakerkenbaker Member Posts: 239
    to amplify what kurt6 is saying... the o-rings seal the filter/holder the correct way for o-rings: on the cylindrical surface of the part they slip into, so "tightening" of the cap/filter/holder into the filter holder is NOT necessary or recommended. All you are doing is screwing it in CAREFULLY, and stopping when it bottoms out. NO torque or "partial turns after touching" are required.

    I have just found that the correct oil for 2007 diesels will probably have to be CJ-4 (replaces CI-4+) in order to be compatible with the Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF - a catalyst-like self-regenerating section of the exhaust system.

    On a side not, My beloved Sprinter (dad's "baby" says my daughter) was savaged yesterday while parked in the lot at my work place... someone cut out the muffler section, pipe/resonance chambers/mufflers, and drove off with the section... Presumably they though it had catalysts and that they could sell it for salvage (about US$90 at recyclers in OKC, OK).

    Replacement cost will be about US$1300...

    KenB :mad: :mad:
  • green_hornetgreen_hornet Member Posts: 4
    Bummer about the it covered by insurance? And thanks for the info. I assume much of it will be in our manual when we pick ours up this weekend. The excitement builds...our checklist is already four pages long!
  • kenbakerkenbaker Member Posts: 239
    all is covered... I still can't afford to lose the value/use of my van since it is so new...

    The resonator I refer to is on the exhaust side (the "muffler" is the muffler, a resonator chamber, and a particle filter I think)... This is ONE BIG PART, Dodge #5119 762AA in the PDF of 2004 Sprinter parts as found on the Berry Dodge site. One part US$1000+...

    Checklist? of questions? of curiosities? Please share it sometime...

    KenB :shades:
  • green_hornetgreen_hornet Member Posts: 4
    Our 'acceptance' or 'delivery' checklist of items to check. We're probably gonna drive the delaer crazy, but we'll post our dealer experience when we're done. btw, the checklist is now 7 pages. As we think of things, we add them to the list, and have garnered an initial basis from ones available in a simple internet search. Can we post files? 7 pages is a long post. It's also for RV acceptance - so there's a lot more to check than an auto-van type list.
  • kenbakerkenbaker Member Posts: 239
    Maybe you would like to join Sprinter-Forum (another site) that is more in-depth and accepts larger content pieces easily so far.

    I understand the long list for the R/V part... so many parts, so many systems, so much maintenance... Like a car, a truck, a house, and (sometimes, if you have a generator) an electric cooperative to keep up with.

  • 2000_valk2000_valk Member Posts: 67
    I have 70k on my 04, reg height, 140. Dealer says time to change fluid. He said he doesn't have pricing in the computer. But says about 300.00 for the trans, Also I need an oil change for 130.00, air filter, about 50.00, and fuel filter for 120.00 !! does this seem right?

    I called the dealer where I bought mine to ask about the 07. says they will get them in about july??? I had two pass me today. Real nice looking rig. Tom
  • bhmetbhmet Member Posts: 8
    I have a leased 2004 with a stakebed with a maintenance plan. My last service was as follows:
    transmission flush $296.22
    windshield $369.59
    coolant flush $171.60
    steering flush $130.00

    We love this truck, but it is not cheap!

  • kenbakerkenbaker Member Posts: 239
    The trans service is supposed to be at 80K, so 70K is reasonable... according the DC/MB this is your one (1) trans-service for the life of the vehicle... we don't see that as a recommendation in the user community... after this first one, it should probably have the fluid changed every 60K or so. Can't be sure of the $300 price, but it MUST include the filter, gasket, and several quarts of that MOPAR (MB Spec, probably SHELL) fully synthetic ATF that they love to charge high$'s for at dodge/FL.

    About $75 is my cost for an oil change with fully synthetic oil (AMSOIL) and a filter from Autozone. The dealer premium is not good.

    The air filter is not a bad deal if they install it for that $50 bill... the filter is usually over $35 at most parts places (if they even have one) in my area OKC, OK. You have to remove some parts to get the filter out... MB didn't do you any favor when they placed the air filter down in the pit on the passenger side of the engine compartment. (I really wonder what that is like for the British, right-hand drive, version)?

    The fuel filter at $120 is obviously dealer installed, and though not tragically high (is also certainly no bargain either). At least they will be responsible for repriming and getting your diesel up and running after the change out.

    All-in-all, I plan to do all of those same actions on my own because I am allergic to dealer pricing on such simple labor items.

    I have already removed and checked and cleaned the air filter of what little dust was in the box and on the surface... so I know that part pretty well (20K miles).

    The fuel filter is not due until about 60K miles barring any encounter with moisture in the fuel supply.

    You know my history with the oil change... one free from dealer, one on me ($75, self-performed, easy), one almost due prior to next big trip (28K miles). The dealer appears to me to have used the wrong oil and/or did not fill it completely (3 quarts used to top-up in 9K miles, first 2 quarts needed after just 1K miles). My own oil change with MOBIL 1 (as required for ASSYST, but I don't have ASSYST) has not used any that can be seen lost on the dipstick level.

    I have seen a few '07's as well, but my dealer only has on or two and the rumor is that they will be losing 5-star/business link status soon which should mean they lose Sprinters as well...

  • 2000_valk2000_valk Member Posts: 67
    Thanks Ken, As usual :D Its kind of scary having service done, then when you pay the bill its higher. They did that to be before on an oil change. By 20.00. Speaking of wrong oil, when I get mine back, there is the usual sticker in the upper left hand corner on the windshield, Saying my next change is in 3K miles. How can you tell they are doing it right? I have the ASSYST.

    If Mb is going to sell off chrysler, What becomes of the dodge sprinter dealers? Kind of scary. We have a limited service network as it is. Thanks again the the reply. Tom
    PS just filled up and got a hair over 24 MPG @298.9 PG.
  • kenbakerkenbaker Member Posts: 239
    Ask them what oil... the manual says that for ASSYST it HAS to be fully synthetic (such as Mobil 1 0w40). It has been brought up that this Mobil 1 is not for diesels, but the Sprinter does not require "diesel" oil. What is required is that the oil is MB spec 228+ or CI-4+.

    I have used the oils, fully synthetic, as required in the book and you should not use hardly ANY oil in even 10K miles. Maybe 1/2 to 1 quart tops. This is in line with old specs for the FLM 302 C.I. in the Mercury Grand Marquis for just 3,000-5,000 miles (1 quart per change interval) and that was with regular oil, maybe CF/CG API spec oil.

  • 2000_valk2000_valk Member Posts: 67
    Hey Ken, Well I had the oil changed, the others will do soon. Oil change went from 130.00 to 149.00. Nice increase. What is involved in doing the air filter. I think once I do it, it will be a breeze next time. Thanks, Tom

    P.S. I may have told you that they repainted the van under warranty (both sides only) and did a great job. :D
  • kenbakerkenbaker Member Posts: 239

    I will never have anyone else do the oil change again if I can help it. :mad:

    To get to the air filter you obviously have to get the cover out of the way...

    Start on a cold engine if you can... You will not be working around the hot end of the turbo MOST of the time, but why risk a burn?

    First, remove the turbo cover/heatshield and be carful with the wires/connector attached to the front end of that...

    Second, carfully disconnect the box lid, wires, hose(s) etc.

    Third, remove the box lid from the Air box.

    Remember to vacuum out the box and to put the new filter back in the same way (air comes in from the bottom and out the top).

    Place the box lid back, connect hose(s), wires, etc. and lock down lid.

    reroute wire attached to heat shield bracket as it was before you moved all around and put heat shield back on.

    Avoid the tempting idea to remove the washer fluid tank to get to the air box... it is much harder to do than you might originally think, and you are likely to lose all of the fluid in the tank while trying this route.

    As I am nearing 30K miles, I will be changing the air filter at this oil change. Since my Autozone carried only the Dusty Region filter, that is what is going to go in. The price is very good, can't remember how much though.

    At 18K miles I removed the air filter, tapped it out gently and vacuumed out the box... I can't remember, but I think that the interval on the filter is every second 30K service... will have to read the books closely again. However, I like Clean Filters A LOT as do most enthusiasts.

    Still haven't found the cabin filter in stock, but Autozone, for one, is carrying cabin filters on the shelves now. One of the local Diesel service companies is now stocking Sprinter parts (a request of the FED/EX guys that use them for fuel injector service).

    The diesel service center guy was at the OKC Farm and Ranch show last weekend. He is a Stanadyne diesel injector systems and Bosch Injector/CDI rep as well. I bought the Stanadyne Diesel Jr. Injector lube/diesel improver (summer use) about $15/half-gal (4oz treats 30gal). Winter diesel improver (with Cetane booster/antigel) is about $23/half-gal. and takes 8oz to treat 30 gal (twice as much).

    He says it takes at least 8 oz to add enough treatment to boost cetane (more important in cold temps).

    KenB :shades:
  • kurt6kurt6 Member Posts: 22
    One can execute most maintenance on your Sprinter,like filters (air motor,cab,fuel and oil) and save 50%-70% from dealer cost.
    However stay away from your transmission unless U"ve proper training and equipment (DRBIII,diagnostic read out box) from MB.
    To check your proper tranmission oil level requires the right temperature.A dipstick check only at the wrong temp can overfill or underfill your transmission and efect the performance and life of your transmission.
    So disregard "Sprinter know it all high tech posters" a periodic dipstick check is all you need can damage your tensmission (cost $2800)
  • kenbakerkenbaker Member Posts: 239
    You appear to be on the right track about the TRANs... I might add that the good Mercedes Benz specialists (not necessarily at a dealer) in your area may have a much better cost on checking/maintaining your Sprinter Transmission.

    It is a common MB Automatic Trans used in several other models (all just as picky about fluid level, quality, temp, etc.) The automatic in the Chrysler Crossfire and similar MB Kompressor model sportscar (don't know the model #) is this same auto trans.

    Kurt, I don't quite know what your last sentence says? A periodic dipstick check is not actually possible for regular owners without specialized equipment as you say earlier in your posting. so, what is probably a really good practice is to look around your Trans at least at every oil change to see if you kind find any leaks. This is not high-tech, or Know-It-All... just common sense, but not often thought about.

    What might seem Know-It-All to some is that these forums that I have read, and subscribed to, give great experience-based advise:

    Change Trans fluid more often than just the one time at 80K miles. (about 60K or less if in an RV or tow-vehicle)

    We MUST use the fully synthetic ATF meeting all MB/DC specs and it must be at the right level (as you state above).

    The infamous RSN (rumble strip noise) can be a problem associated with nothing more complex than the trans fluid, its level, or its quality.

    Don't try to cheap out on trans maintenance when the time comes to do it, even a rebuilt Sprinter Trans is EXPEN$IVE...

    please explain that last sentence... I really want to understand it better.

  • 2000_valk2000_valk Member Posts: 67
    Ken, Thanks much for the info. Sounds simple enough, But will take it slow. Thanks again, Tom :D
  • minicoopersminicoopers Member Posts: 26
    Speaking of maintenance . . .
    I tend to keep my new vehicles and always purchase the manuals the dealer techs use. (the 3, 4" thick binders at $80 for my '95 Saturn SL2 with 189k miles have paid for themselves many times) Has anyone purchased them for the Sprinter and/or are they available without cracking the master dealer database?
  • kenbakerkenbaker Member Posts: 239
    Fuel Filter Replacement at Bob Howard Dodge in OKC, OK is now $170 (U.S.D.) about $50 for the filter and $120 for the labor... My guess is that the 2 hour minimum has to be met?

    KenB :confuse:
  • kenbakerkenbaker Member Posts: 239
    Generally will have to find the CD online, maybe on EBAY.

    The online version of the parts/diagrams at athe Berry Dodge website have been most helpful to me and many others.

    KenB :shades:
  • minicoopersminicoopers Member Posts: 26
    Good call KenB, very informative website.
    Is there a way to post pics in this forum?
    I'm looking for other Sprinter factory colors besides white.

    MINI :D
  • Karen_SKaren_S Member Posts: 5,092
    Photos can be included in posts. Click on "Img", paste the photo URL in, and then click on "Img" again.
  • 2000_valk2000_valk Member Posts: 67
    Good idea, anyone want to send a picture of their rigs?? :shades:
  • skiyupskiyup Member Posts: 1
    I love my big ugly sprinter van. I have a few ideas to "pimp it out" ie. custom touches. Anyone out there jumped on their's yet? piks available? It handles great, runs well, but the connect with the dealer really bites. Also that turbo hose clamp has let me down several times and it goes into cripple mode when too big a bug hits the grill or Io eclipses Saturn. Thanks for the engine light fix.
  • luvmysprinterluvmysprinter Member Posts: 4
    I would like to change my own fuel filter in my 2004 Sprinter cargo van. I've heard that on a diesel engine if this is not done correctly it could cost you alot. Is there a step by step manual out that would explain the process? Or is there someone out there who can walk me thru it?
  • kenbakerkenbaker Member Posts: 239
    Have correct fuel filter and o-rings (2004 USA model Sprinter should use top-sensor type filter).

    Have extra (band-type or else OEM) hose clamps on hand. If you are careful, the old clamps may be re-used, otherwise you want more on-hand.

    Turn off engine of course, and remove the key.

    Clamp off the hoses (if you have non-damaging hose clamp pliers or clamps) This step is not supposed to be needed.

    Remove the hoses and catch drips.

    Loosen clamp(s) on canister and remove.

    Twist sensor in direction to prepare to remove.

    Remove sensor pulling straight out gently.

    Replace O-rings on sensor. Remove/move over any other pieces and move them to the new canister along with the sensor.

    Reinstall NEW cansiter filter.

    Put hoses on, install clamps, check fit, tighten canister in place.

    Open drain, add a length of hose and run it to a catch container safe for diesel fuel. It helps much to have someone to to hold hose, container, and to signal when to shut off the key.

    Turn key to run position, but DO NOT start engine. Allow the tranfer pump to push fuel into the canister filter and then to flow out of the drain tube (about a pint or two max). This goes fast. Shut off key.

    CLOSE the drain carefully and snug, but do not over tighten.

    Again, turn the key to on, but wait and do not start immediately, let the system pump up pressure, then shut off.

    Now, turn to run, wait for the pump to run, the glow plugs light to go out, then start the engine and let it run for a while to ensure that you get all of the bubbles out of the system before you decide you're are ready to say your job is completed and your'e ready to put all of the tools away.

    The keys to this job going well are primarily to get fuel back into the system/filter and primed back to inlet of the high pressure pump with minimal chance for air in the system.

    My first fuel filter change is soon and I have planned carefully just in case.

    KenB ;)
  • sppspp Member Posts: 13
    The dealerships are independently owned and operated!!##XX ???? The mantra of the impotent Chrysler group. I'm curious if anyone has had similar problems both with their Sprinter, their dealerships service dept. arrogance, incompetance and Chrysler customer service ( or lack of it) uselessness. To list some of my problems:
    Replace: cargo area dome light(s), horn, radio, door latch (door would bounce open when trying to close, rear door dome light switch. These alone have been far more than any problems I've had with the aprox. 15 vehicles I've owned over the last 30yrs.
    There's more. After having my Sprinter serviced at 20k, by my selling dealership, Lee Dodge of Commack, New York, at 21k my transmission broke down and I needed to be towed. They would only tow me to the nearest dealership, Westbury Jeep. Three days later Thursday I got the truck back. Friday I brought it back to Westbury Jeep And said I felt the truck was hesitating and had a power issue. They test drove it and said "they could not duplicate the problem" On Monday, there is an explosion, not exagerating, from the engine compartment. I have to get towed back to Westbury Jeep for the second time in a week. This time it is a problem with the turbo booster. I am beyond frustration at this point, especially after the dealership not properly diagnosing the problem correctly the previous Friday. In fact they were rude and acted as if they were doing me a favor repairing a vehicle still under warranty. 3 weeks later I'm 150 miles from home starting a camping weekend with my fishing club. I pull into a supermarket to get some snacks and go back to the truck and start it up and it does not move!!! I have to be towed for the third time in a month. I call roadside assistance and they tell me they can not find a participating tow company in my area, Winstead Ct., at 9:30pm on a Friday night. At this point I lost it and demanded they get me towed to the nearest Dodge dealership and get me running. 2 1/2hrs later they get me towed to Crowley Dodge in Bristol CT. 36 miles to the southeast of my location. I slept in the truck in the dealership lot. The next morning a service rep. wakes me and gets my truck looked at asap. My complements to Crowley Dodge's pleasentness and politeness, for the first time from a Dodge affiliate. They diagnosed the problem as my linkage coming apart as it was not properly reassembled by the Westbury jeep tech. when they repaired my transmission. At this point I just drove home and gave up on my weekend from frustration and exhaustion. Just this past week, Nov 07, I needed to bring my truck back to Lee Dodge to have my door latch repaired, my linkage replaced, as Crowley Dodge just did a temporary fix on it to get me back on the road. Also to diagnose a problem with my Dashboard outside temperature digital thermometer. They fixed my door and linkage, but did not fix my thermometer and while taking apart my dash they broke the central locking system of my truck and left my instrument panel molding misaligned and protruding from the rest of the dash. When I called the service manager the next morning and demanded an immediate appointment for them to fix my locking system, that they had just broken and to fix my dash the service manager was rude and told me not to bring my truck back to his shop. I asked to speak with the general mgr. He had the same attitude. I currently have an appointment with another dealership to have the remaining problems repaired 3 weeks from now! I also have an additional problem. It seems that at low speed and when slowing down the truck it has developed a rumbling noise like I'm running on a shoulder. During all of this The Chrysler Group has been a non-entity, invisable and not worthy of the concept of customer service. This post is not only to get other owners feedback but also to put together my thoughts as I'm considering court action against my dealership and Chrysler.

    Thanks for reading,
  • sppspp Member Posts: 13
    Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2007 18:03:06 -0500
    > From:
    > To:
    > Subject: Re: Chrysler LLC Customer Assistance (KMM52756xxxx25261xxxxx}
    > Dear
    > Thank you for contacting the Chrysler Customer Assistance Center
    > regarding Lee Dodge.
    > Your email has been received and the concerns you have raised are
    > appreciated.
    > After thoroughly reviewing your request and the files on this matter, we
    > respectfully concur with the information provided by our Customer
    > Service Representative.
    > Thank you for taking the time to communicate with us. It is regrettable
    > that a more favorable reply can not be provided.
    > Thanks again for your email.
    > Sincerely,
    > Leslie
    > Senior Staff Representative
    > Chrysler Customer Assistance Center
    > For any future communications related to this email, please refer to the
    > following information:
    > REFERENCE NUMBER: 16xxxxx
    > EMAIL CASE NUMBER: 1xxxx
    > Original Message Follows:
    > ----------
    > US Customer Service - Dodge Brand Site
    > Brief Description:
    > Comments:
    > CHRYSLER has no corporate culture.

    Chrysler customer service continues to be a joke! How do you agree with bringing a vehicle in for one thing and the service dept. brakes something else and refuses to repair damage they just did. You thoroughly reviewed? Be serious, not foolish!

    completely dissatisfied customer

    Chrysler are you even capable of listening?

    Dear MR., We here at Dodge are continuously looking for ways we can serve you better.Your assistance would be a significant help in our efforts if you could take a couple of minutes to give us your feedback. Recently you sent an email to Dodge, the subject of which you titled: "CHRYSLER GROUP..... LIKE TEETS ON A BULL!!!!!!!!!!" Please click on the link below to open our web page questionnaire and answer the questions based on this most recent email interaction. Thank you in advance for taking the time to help us improve. The answers you provide will assist us to gauge your satisfaction with our handling of your questi
  • sprintingsprinting Member Posts: 2
    I truly sympathise with your situation - the problem really is that these car companies are only interested in getting vehciles off their lots and into the hands of the banks and finance companies who will ensure you pay for the vehcile regardless of how badly it performs.
    Its sad to say that this is historical and will continue until WalMart starts to sell cars and trucks when you can simply take the vehcile back and get a refund.
    I have a 2007 Sprinter and have had my oil changes done every 10,000km at the Valvoline Centers. They are efficient and courteous costing about $70 when I provide the filter.
    In error I took my Sprinter to the dealership for the 32,000km service/oil change.
    They overfilled the engine which caused my oil light to flash and a warning to show that I needed to bring the vehcile back to a dealer immediately for fear of damaging the engine.
    Rather than risk taking it back, I stopped on the highway and got under the van and drained about a pint out of the sump. This solved the problem.
    The next day I received an email from the dealership advising that Chrysler would be sending me a form to complete regarding my satisfaction with the service and that IF I WAS NOT SATISFIED, I should call the dealership rather than mention the fact on the form.
    Hmm, I wonder why?
    Anway I did reply to the dealership and am currently awaiting their response.
    Bye the way, the dealership charge for that oil change was $235 - almost 3 times the changes of Valvoline !!!
  • kenbakerkenbaker Member Posts: 239

    Now these guys are telling people that they need a fuel filter, and sometimes an Air Filter every time you get oil changed... b... s... some are trying to demand oil changes on a short schedule (they don't know the product, but they know how to charge extra).

    My stealership didn't even use the right oil, didn't fill it up, or both. Wonder how much your dealership put in yours? Wonder how much it sucked on through the breather system before you drained the pint out?

    They tell me they want $160 for a fuel filter change!!!

    KenB :confuse:
  • ddaileyddailey Member Posts: 5
    I have a 2006 2500 used for commercial purposes with 23k miles. Hve been noticing a fuel smell in the drivers compartment. Anyone else had this problem or know the cause. I am tired of taking to the dealer, even though it is still in warranty. It takes them three days to determine what the problem is. So far, they have wanted to replace the main wiring harness, said the gromet came loose at the firewall. I would not let them. I was also charged $235.00 +- or oil change & fuel filter. They put too much oil in & the light came on. They drained a quart (according to the service writer) but would not give me a refund. When I talked to the svc mgr I learned that they have not been using Mobil 1, even though they had led me to believe this. I called the Fleet Sales Manager & asked what the problems are & why should I buy another truck from him. He passed me to the svc mgr.
  • kenbakerkenbaker Member Posts: 239
    You don't even need a fuel filter until 30K...

    But that has not kept the dealerships from coming up with a schedule that includes a fuel filter at every 10K oild change... and charging WAY too much for one.

    This time of year the diesel tends to have more kerosene, and more smell... however, you should have very little of this anyway. You could have a small fuel leak, and should check all hoses, connections, filter, etc. for oily/dirty stains and especially for fresh fuel leaking (double check around the top of the fuel filter that they changed. Other possibilities would be certainly supect as warranty work: (injector, glow plug, or fuel rail leak).

    Also, if you use the Aux. Heater this time of year (when it tends to be cold), then you need to remember that it does have bit of smell especially until it gets up to speed... In extreme cases you will see some white smoke from the drivers side wheel well. The smell from the Aux. Heater is much less if you use it every month for 10 minutes as mentioned in the owner's manual.

    A few bugs in the batter (dealers/reps) and this is one bad streak for Dodge with a vehicle that is known worldwide for quality and longevity.

    Please fill out the dealership review on this website for your location. We need the input.

  • sppspp Member Posts: 13
    Posts: 4
    Status: Online!
    Post #1
    I have the original front brake pads and rotors on my 06 sprinter. I have 28k on them. I had a dealer check my brakes and he told me I have about 2k left on the front pads and about 5k left on the rears. The front rotors have never been cut and the pads still have life and have not gone metal to metal, however, the dealer tells me I need new front rotors! I have never heard of this before. Is it possible to need new front rotors even if they have never been cut or the pads have never worn down to metal to metal? The dealer further states that if I choose not to replace the rotors but only the pads, that he can't guarantee that the brakes would not pulse and that they probably would not have the expected life. Am I being scammed. I hear the dealers get more training on scams then they do on vehicle maintenance!
  • grasspressgrasspress Member Posts: 11
    hello, spp:

    my experiences with my 2005 sprinter van 2500 have been decidedly different from yours, and i imagine my experiences more closely duplicate the thousands of other satisfited sprinter owners who have kept this van in high demand around the world. it seems to me you got one of the 'lemons' in the group, as well as having to deal with support staff at your dealership who probably took on the sprinter franchise as a lark.

    my sprinter has 30000 miles; i haven't had any serious problems. the only problem i can think of right now was a dash warning light that woudln't go out and the dealer (sam lehman's in peoria il) took care of it right away. this dealership has treated me very well and i can truly sing their praises. i'm going back thu for the 30000 mile service. soon after that, it will be off warranty but i may still take it there for service. i'd also like to add that i get around 26-30 mpg on all-day interstate travel (admitedly, at 55 mph) and around 23-26 mpg on town stop-n-go travel.

    i'm sorry you've had such bad luck. and i'm hoping i won't have any bad luck in the future with this vehicle, but right now, i'm pretty happy with it.

  • codenamecuckoocodenamecuckoo Member Posts: 1
    Greetings all,
    158 HiTop,dual sliders 1set of passenger seats added. I recently had a problem losing power and engine would shut-off with an engine light. It would fire right back up but shut off again soon after. Went to dealer I bought from, repaired a trans leak (they say, I never saw fluid on pavement), and replaced fuel filter.When they drove it ,another engine light. Now it's a glow plug and a glow plug module. Truck has 73k, 2005 model. It's under warranty until July 2008. Is this covered? Are injectors covered? I read in another post not to use biodiesel because factory fuel filters are cellulose and will melt and clog. Anyone experience this? Is there a different brand filter (i.e. NAPA, Fram) that will not do this? Anyone remove the oil filter cover? In an odd place and difficult to remove/replace. Any ideas greatly appreciated. I try to bypass the Stealership as much as possible... Joe
  • kenbakerkenbaker Member Posts: 239
    Transleak, probably an "O" ring on a sensor, not a major leak, more driving under pressure, doesn't continue to leak much.

    Glow plugs/control probably on emmissions/engine warranty, but must ask dealer.
    Injectors are as far as I know...

    Fuel Filter (price to replace?) how many times have you done it?

    Biodiesel approved up to about 5 or even 10-15 percent bio source, but only if approved/tested quality, like ASTM. Cellulose not likely to melt, clog yes, but only if the previous petroleum diesel was very dirty (biodiesel cleans remarkably well, and lubricates very well too). Clogging of fuel filters in diesel operation (clean fuels assumed) is from very COLD fuel with adequate amounts of parafins (summer fuel used at winter temps) and/or emulsions (hot/cold/hot/cold condenses moisture which mixes with the oils and emulsifies (hard to filter/pump) and easy to freeze).

    Some filters for the Sprinter are available that are known as "fleece", but you will have to go searching, I don't have a source at this time.

    There are people running Sprinters on B85 and even B100 (B = bio, number =percentage of). A few are also reporting running as converted to use SVO (straight Vegetable Oil, most reclaimed, VERY HIGHLY filtered).

    Oil filter cap/holder very easy to remove on US Sprinters up to 2006 (5 cyl. Diesels), actually very unlikely to spill/drip on engine. The housing drains into the block. I use the nesting set of filter wrenches (7-in-one) and a regular 3/8" extension/ratchet... Remove after draining most of the oil, or the flow out the bottom is a torrent... wow, can shoot out over the side of the catch pan.

    In putting the cap/filter back in, be patient, use the new o-rings, only tighten to touch down... plus very little torque... this seals by o-rings in a sleeve, not by pressure on a gasket/flat surface.

    Easiest oil changes I have ever had (except for using 9.5 quarts of oil...)

    KenB :shades:
  • joshedyjoshedy Member Posts: 1
    I have an 02 dodge sprinter. The alarm doesnt work. The light on the central locking system blinks that the passenger side doors are not closed properly. They are closed, however the sliding door is tricky to close it needs some persuasion. Any suggestions on how I can trouble shoot this my self.
  • amirbtalaiamirbtalai Member Posts: 4
    I had the same problem on my 2006 Sprinter, the second day I owned it. There was a fuel leak at the front of the engine where the 8mm fuel supply/return hoses are clamped to the injection pump. The dealer was unable to find the leak, so I made the repair myself with the proper clamp. That was at San Jose Capital Expressway Dodge. They are really useless, and even the management doesn't want to take responsibility or keep the customer happy. They neglected to respond to my letter of complaint. The unfortunate thing about the US is that auto mechanics don't have the training or understanding of how to properly fix a car. They are trained on Detroit farm equipment, and when they come across a foreign car, they are unable to apply what they learned in training.
    This is why such wonderful vehicles such as the Sprinter and the VW vanagon have such a bad reputation. I am a former auto mechanic, and after my training I worked with a German master technician. There was so much that I didn't know, even things that now seem so basic. I had to make a paradigm shift in order to
    understand these vehicles. I had to unlearn much of my school training.

    Good luck with your repair
  • amirbtalaiamirbtalai Member Posts: 4
    I had a problem with a misaligned sliding door on my 06.
    The dealership was unable to align the door. Their solution was to slam the door harder. If you carefully look at the mechanism and with the help of an assistant adjust the sliding door and the strikers, then at least the slider will work fine. Then you can make your diagnosis of the electrical problem knowing that it is not a door
    alignment problem causing the door switch to think the door is open.
  • kenbakerkenbaker Member Posts: 239
    Clean and lube all of the contacts for all of the doors that have them, especially the sliding and rear doors as they rely on the contacts for the elcetronics that "see" whether or not they door latches are actually set for lock mode.

    The central locking module (aka the central locking timer) is also a common point of failure.

  • ososlickososlick Member Posts: 12
    I have a Winnebago View Motorhome on a 2007 sprinter 2500 with the mercedes v-6 turbo diesel chassis. Can someone tell me where the locations of the engine oil filter and oil drain plug are on this unit.
  • yeayeayeayea Member Posts: 4
    ">I would like to know the reason why you are not allowed to change the direction of the tire rotation. The owner manual on page 196 say the rotation should not be reversed. Why? ">
  • windoverwindover Member Posts: 1
    I have a problem with my glow plug light staying on in the dash. Is there a way to check my glow plugs with an ohms meter at the plug of the contoller? If so what type of reading should I expect?

  • kenbakerkenbaker Member Posts: 239
    I have the I-5, but would guess that the drain plug is low on the pan on the driver's side. Many would say that the more efficient way to change oil is to suck it out of the dipstick tube and leave the drain plug alone. Easy if you have a vacuum source, a simple tool and a proper container.

    Mercedes uses a cartridge filter mounted high on the engine, usually on the driver side as well. Look for a black cap, point straight up that looks a bit like the bottom of a canister-type oil filter... use a matching filter wrench "cup"... all seals on this unit are "o"-rings and must be replaced every time you change oil (they come in the filter box). lube the o-rings and install by hand only, then gently tighten (the o-rings seal, the torque-down does not enhance the seal... so don't over-tighten).

  • jdetwilerjdetwiler Member Posts: 1
    Where would I find a maintinance manual for 2005 mercedes sprinter van. Please send your answer to Thank you.
  • amirbtalaiamirbtalai Member Posts: 4

    I purchased a service manual for my 2006 sprinter directly from Chrysler publications.

    The only drawback I saw is that it was only available on CD, not book form.

    Maybe even check ebay

    good luck
  • luvmysprinterluvmysprinter Member Posts: 4
    I am finally going to put new brakes on my 04 Sprinter cargo van. I have the 140" wheel base with 16" tires 2500SCH. It is the first set of brakes and I have 60,000 mi. on them. Needless to say they are metal to metal. The problem I have is finding pads and rotors for this van. NAPA wants to know if I have the Bosch calipers. It turns out I do have Bosch calipers, took the front tire off to find out,hope the rear is the same. Now they want to know what size rotor I have. Apparently there are three different sizes listed in millimeters. How can I tell what size the rotor is? Are there any special concerns I should watch for when I finally get all my brake parts together? By the way I love this vehicle. Only two minor recalls that I am aware of and no major problems. They do need to learn how to paint this vehicle properly. And why after 4 yrs. can't I find a repair manual for this vehicle? By the way, I purchased my van from Fyda Freightliner in Columbus, Ohio and they have been very courteous and fair and timely with the recalls and scheduled maintenance I had them do while the vehicle was under warranty. After warranty I started doing my own scheduled maintenance. You do not have to go to Dodge or Chrysler dealer if there is a Freightliner dealer selling Sprinters near where you live.
  • amirbtalaiamirbtalai Member Posts: 4

    Usually I get my parts from They now carry some maintenance parts like filters. I just checked for your brake parts to no avail.

    Some other sites to check are and the links from that website.

    Does the Freightliner dealer sell these parts? These sprinters have been around forever in other countries; maybe there is a parts source in Canada.

    Regarding the shop manual, I found a CDRom factory manual from chrysler publications, but it is not as straightforward as having a paper manual.

    Good luck

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