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Mercedes-Benz M-class (ML320, ML350, ML500 and ML55) 2005 and earlier

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Comments

  • tariktarik Posts: 344
    Ha ha haaa!!! What in the world...?

    image

    Disgusted Tarik

  • wmquanwmquan Posts: 1,817
    an accessory to padlock your hood ;-)
  • wnielwniel Posts: 97
    No I don't have pictures. Had to have temp repairs done at a body shop in Mammoth as the latch wouldn't latch. The floor was pushed back in about five inches because of the door being pushed in that much. Had to pull out the lower latch a few inches and then drilled a hole through the door to attach a wire to the locking mechanism to onlatch the door. Then took heavy plastic and taped over the broken window to help seal and keep out the weather. We drove halfway home in heavy snow before the snow turned to heavy rain. Had to stop one time to retape the plastic as the wind and rain had loosened it up so that it was flapping in the wind. I had my son-in-law with me and neither of us was hurt other than a little stiffness in the neck for a day or so. The driver of the other vehicle claimed he was only doing about 3MPH and I said B/S. We were hit hard enough that the slide under the sunroof slid open. It was definitely a heavy hit that got your attention in a big way. Had he only been going that fast we wouldn't have had all of the damage even though he missed the bumper. I would say that he was going 7-10 MPH.
    Wally
  • tariktarik Posts: 344
    William, nice thought, LOL!

    How about the lower wing being a release mechanism for the spring loaded hockey stick on top of the hood, leaving an imprint of the three-pointed star on your forehead?

    Can't imagine what those folks were thinking... ...how would you describe it... ...contest "go"!

    Tarik
  • rexconde1rexconde1 Posts: 278
    I feel your pain,

    I'm surprised that it caused that much damage. When I was rearended by a tahoe last summer the rear hatch was caved in, the galss didnt break, but they replaced the whole rear hatch. I do think that the Tahoe was going much faster than yours because he was coming from highway speeds. I think that the hitch took most of the impact as the tahoe bumper had a huge pinhole dent that looked to hit the structure of the Tahoe.

    At the same time the hitch probably caused more dmage to the ML as well... It bent teh rear member that holds the hitch reciever, thus bent it. Total cost for the other guy was about $$8000

    Like you said though the bumper of the Ram is higher so it probably didnt do internal damage.

    Glad no one was hurt,
    Robert
  • rexconde1rexconde1 Posts: 278
    Could one say:

    Das ist häßlich!

    Robert
  • drew_drew_ Posts: 3,382
    The rear crossmember that holds the trailer hitch receiver is also the rear bumper, so even if you didn't have it, it would've been damaged by the impact anyway. In fact, I think that the rear bumper would be damaged even more so if you didn't have the hitch.
  • rexconde1rexconde1 Posts: 278
    I just thought that the hitch gave the impact the leverage (perhaps moreso) to break the cross member. Rather than taking a flat impact the Tahoe hit the hitch and pushed it down. After the impact it was pushed down but no major bumper damage.

    Click for a bigger pic:

    image
    image
    image
    image
    image

    Robert
  • dmh10dmh10 Posts: 8
    I ordered a new engine air filter from Mercedes recently and they sent me a filter that does fit into the filter housing but the filter element is not straight across on the bottom like the original but is stepped up on one side across the bottom. The original filter element is part #604 094 00 04 and my replacement filter is part #604 094 14 04. Does anyone know if they gave me the
    wrong filter or is it a new design for the filter.

    Thanks

    Mark
  • Hey,

    To sound like a complete brat, for the winter, my parents gave me their ML320 (paranoid Jewish mother...not necessarily a bad thing in this case). I'm in Cornell, where it's winter 11 months a year (it snowed 6 days in a row this week...and as I speak too), so the car gets COVERED in road salt. Would mudflaps help keep dirt and salt off the side steps? Whenever you get out of the car, the bottom of your pants have a nice white line on the back. I just brought myself to wash it, but I know it's just going to get dirty again in 4 minutes. Thanks.

    Oh yeah, about post 2004, I had no idea that Pontiac designed accessories for the CLK.

    -Todd
  • howvoodhowvood Posts: 19
    I saw a set of rear seats being offered on e-bay.
    They are item #565254324
  • bob259bob259 Posts: 280
    Got my H7 Phillips Vision Plus bulbs yesterday and installed them in the HID's Quite a bit more light then the stock Hella's, but still a yellowish light compared to the HID's Hotter center spot and as advertised a lot more light down the road. Still spoiled by the HID's and really notice the difference in temperature of the light.

    Side note, 4-6" of snow here in upstate NY and they are calling for over 24" by Tuesday. We're gonna leave the Volvo XC home tomorrow and take the ML for the additional ground clearance. I am ready for SPRING!!!! I hate not being able to keep the cars clean.

    Supposed to go in Tuesday for the coolant leak and inspection. 8,065 miles and just about 1 year old now and except for this recent coolant leak and a bad door actuator it's been a great car.
  • cavman2xcavman2x Posts: 26
    Congratulations sounds like you got a good deal. I just purchased Saturday the following ML320, M1,M2,sunroof, heated seats, Bose 6-CD,metallic silver for $40,500 inc. dest. fee. Does yours include dest fee? I purchased in Northern NJ. MSRP was $42,470. I checked around a feel I got a "fair" deal only because i needed it in 2 weeks because my car was coming off lease.Too bad I didn't P/U last week I could have used it with this snowstorm coming. G
  • nyeungnyeung Posts: 1
    I am from Toronto Canada. I am thinking of buying the Legacy L instead of the GT wagon. Is the Limited slip differential (LSD), the two sun roof, leather seats and side air bag worth the $4,000. Mainly the LSD is it worth it.

    Edmunds comment was that the transmission was 'lethargic', that maybe OK if it is reliable? The Auto show magazine also indicated that the major problem areas are Engine, transmission, electrical system, the minor ones are final drive, suspension and brakes.

    I Have not read any poor review in these areas in the discussion.

    Can any one shed light?

    thanks

    Nnay
  • rexconde1rexconde1 Posts: 278
    I think that you are on the wrong board.

    But while you are here why not consider what seems to be a far superior choice? An Mercedes ML!

    Comfort, safety, power, luxury and 4WD all rolled into one! Where elses can you get this?

    Robert
  • mlx52mlx52 Posts: 72
    Recently I have noticed that I cringe at the sight of every bump that I see. Since, I know that I will be able to feel the entire bump throughout the cabin. I noticed this when I bought the car, but I didn't think of it because I thought it might just be a characteristic of a new car. However, it has now been a few months and the car has broken in but the stiffness has not gone away. The tires are at 32.5 psi as reported by the Mercedes tire gauge. Could this problem be related to under or over-inflated tires? What else could be causing this problem?

    Thanks,
    Jamie
  • drew_drew_ Posts: 3,382
    I think the break-in period is for the engine/brakes, and not for the ride of the vehicle :-)

    Your tires should be inflated at 29psi when cold (read: after sitting overnight, or at least stationary for 4 hours) and when carrying a normal load. At 32.5 psi, the air will expand even more (vs 29psi) when the tires are heated up after driving for a few minutes and the ride will be even stiffer.

    If you were driving something like a Lexus LS or Toyota Camry before the ML, the change in ride quality will be very obvious. If you were driving another firmly tuned German car before, the difference will probably not be too vast.
  • mlx52mlx52 Posts: 72
    Thanks for the information. Before I had the M-Class I drove a 98 Chrysler Town and Country, which had a somewhat soft suspension. However, I will deflate my tires to 29psi.

    Jamie
  • drmhfdrmhf Posts: 29
    Caveman, the price includes the destination fee.
    Good luck with your new ML320. Because of the sky roof mine has to be special ordered. I'll get it in about 8 weeks. We have a jeep also so the snow is no problem.
    I've read posts from people claiming they got the ML320 below invoice. There's a 3% dealer holdback, so the dealer makes $1200 if the car is sold at invoice. I'm wondering how much lower I can go than $371 above invoice.
  • thor3thor3 Posts: 120
    drmhf,

    Getting an ML below invoice will get more likely as you get closer to end of year production. The fact that you are having to wait 8 weeks may put you very close to this point. If and when Mercedes finally announces the 2002 ML with new features and minor facelift the dealers will be very willing to deal on 2001 models.

    You are getting a very good price for the moment but this will change with the above mentioned. Using holdback for a greater discount is not as likely as getting an "additional" discount due to an increased end-of-year holdback or manufacturer to dealer incentive. Remember that the sales person does not likely get any of the normal 3% holdback - this is a dealer incentive and is not paid at time of dealer purchase but is usually paid at specific times during the year depending on the dealers allotment and floor planing. In other words, the dealer does not see the 3% at the time of your purchase.

    Anyway, you will certainly be following the upcoming model changes and this will start the dealers dealing the way they are with you currently. Don't be surprised if a month or so after you take delivery the ML even greater below dealer invoice pricing is common. At some point this year Mercedes will likely determine an increased dealer holdback or incentive is necessary to clear out the 2001's prior to the new 2002 ML's arriving. I think the severity of the discount will be determined by how significant the changes are and how this impacts dealers inventory. If 2001 inventory stops moving due to customers waiting for new models the incentives will be greater.

    My final comment - It seems to me that if you are able to wait 8 weeks and you already know that there will be significant amenities changes and a minor facelift that you should hold out a bit longer. This way you can either take advantage of above mentioned end-of-year discounts or if you see the 2002 ML has a better standard appointment package you might decide to wait. I have said this here more than once - it is a bummer to purchase a $40K vehicle of any sort to see it replaced a few months later with new appointments and such. 2002 will be one of those significant years in getting the latest and greatest Mercedes has to offer in the SUV line.

    Good Luck - Frank
  • birgerbirger Posts: 80
    These pages were scanned from my ML's manual, and shows better than photos how the Euro ML's has a "hideaway" trailer hitch:

    image

    image

    image

    Kind regards from rainy Luxyland

    Birger
  • bob259bob259 Posts: 280
    birger, I wonder if the lighter weight trailers in Europe have anything to do with that hitch design?

    It also looks like maybe the trailer balls are standardized in Europe Vs North America where we have a great number of ball sizes used by the different manufactures and weight's of towed vehicles here.

    Thanks for the photos!!!!
  • kenyeekenyee Posts: 738
    Thanks for the pics Birger. It's always great to see what things are like in other countries. That looks so strange to us here :-)
    All the hitches here look like hollow bars (square hole you plug something into). I like the bike racks that plug into our hitches.
    Does your hitch have a maximum weight rating (our are rated for 5000lbs)? It doesn't look like it would be that strong from the width of the hook.
    Is the first picture of a plug for the hitch hole so it doesn't get dirty?
  • abc246abc246 Posts: 305
    Wneil, you are completely wrong on your advice under sever conditions. If you must choose between your ABS system and using a lower gear on very slippery conditions- always use the ABS system. The reason is the ABS system can actually compensate if the vehicle starts to gain speed going down hill. Under very slippery conditions (like ice) the engine braking from the lower gear wants to hold the speed steady or even slow it down, this can cause the tries to skid and loose steering control. The traction control system may or may not engage under these conditions, because it may not be "informed" of a skid if all wheels are sliding equal. Nevertheless, in this type of condition the engine will try to hold back the truck -even it has to slide the tries to get it's way. If you use the brakes the ABS system will calculate the speed increase and brake according to prevent a skid. I have had this experience first hand in a 99 Chevrolet Blazer. I was coming down a mountainside on a road with no guardrails that was completely covered with ice. I was unable to turn around and had to proceed with the family in the truck. I tried to use low gear but it became clear that low gear was going to get us killed as the engine would not gain speed as the truck went down hill because it was easier to slide the tires. I was only going a few miles per hour but there was not enough traction for the tires to hold the truck at that speed. I shifted back into "drive" and pushed on the brake pedal as hard as I could and listened to the ABS system pulse down the entire mountain. The secrete is to NOT pump the brakes. The truck actually started to gain speed in some areas but the ABS system kept the truck under control and I had steering control even on ice. I am not sure of the duty cycle on the ABS system but it did not fail under these conditions under constant use. I was not in a ML but I suspect the ABS system is at least as good as GMs. This advice should hold for all cars and trucks since I do not know of a traction control system that can give the engine throttle to prevent a slide. A ML may never see conditions like that but this information maybe helpful to someone.
  • thenightthenight Posts: 3
    Hi. I'm about to buy a 2000 ML-320 (White). Quick question: The bumpers & fender cover are gray. Should I be concerned? I thought the bumper & fender were painted body color in the 2000's...

    Thanks.
  • sshowittsshowitt Posts: 137
    Year 2000, the front and rear bumper as well as the side door molding is painted the same color of the exterior of the ML. Either the bumpers have been replaced, or it is not a 2000 ML
  • drew_drew_ Posts: 3,382
    Glad that you were avoided that guardrail! But ABS does not calculate the speed increase and brake according to prevent a skid. ABS does not really even know that the vehicle is skidding.

    Even if the above was true for your GM truck, but that's not exactly how the ML works. It sounds to me like you were going too fast and your GM truck's transmission did not want to shift to a lower gear to gain revs as it would've hit the rev limiter (you probably need to have the overdrive switch off in order to force it to downshift). That's why you noticed no increase in engine speed.

    What I do is slow down far ahead of time using engine braking and ABS. It seems to be the best way to get the vehicle to stop on a slippery slope.

    FYI, the ML knows that it is sliding because it has a stability control system that monitors the angle that the steering wheel is being turnedl vs. the direction that the vehicle is actually going (using lateral and yaw sensors in addition to the wheel speed sensors). It will apply the brakes to the necessary wheels and reduce throttle if needed.


    Drew
    Host
    Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket and Accessories message boards
  • roger23roger23 Posts: 48
    A friend is considering purchasing one of these two vehicles.Does anyone know where I can find a head to head comparison of the ML vs the RX ?
  • thenightthenight Posts: 3
    That's what I thought. It's definately a 2000 ML (VIN matches) and I'm not finding any accident data. I'll check a bit more.

    BTW, the MCS on this ML-320 only has CD functionality. Is there an aftermarket upgrade so I can enable Nav & cell?

    TIA.

    d.
  • kenyeekenyee Posts: 738
    Some folks like the old ones better because it adds contrast (all white makes it look more like a minivan). That may have been what happened if there is no accident data.
  • gpvsgpvs Posts: 214
    When you purchase and install the MB Nav Unit, they will operate from the MCS. The same thing with the cell.
  • tonychrystonychrys Posts: 1,310
    roger23 Mar 5, 2001 11:37am


    Here's a link to a recent test by Car & Driver:

    www.caranddriver.com/xp/Caranddriver
    /comparisontests/2000/December
    /200012_comparisontest_designerutes.xml

    Unfortunately, this lousy discussion software is forcing me to break the link up because it is over 100 characters??

  • cassiricassiri Posts: 40
    Has anyone found a solution to dash and defroster vent creak. I have a 99 ML430 and it just recently started creaking over every decent sized bump. It seems the vent can be taken out but I'm afraid of breaking it. Has anyone tried this?
  • drew_drew_ Posts: 3,382
    You may want to refer your friend to this article as well:

    http://www.curtrich.com/november1999.html


    Tony, you cannot post the C&D link above because it's over 100 characters. The reason why we have the character limit is because anything longer will mess up the screen width.

  • drew_drew_ Posts: 3,382
    IIRC (Steve ;-)), the fix for this problem was to remove the vent and to felt the edges. If possible, let your dealership fix it. They should know the procedure since it affects '98-'99 MLs.


    Drew
    Host
    Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket and Accessories message boards
  • tonychrystonychrys Posts: 1,310
    That "Curt's Newsletter" review is highly suspect. While I absolutley agree with many of his factual points (weight loads, cargo capacity, etc), a lot of it is conjecture/opinion on his part. Anytime both the ML320 or RX300 have the same features, he states it for the ML but not the RX.

    Plus, the review is dated Nov 1999 and many of the statements are outright falsehoods when applied to the MY2001 vehicles.
  • birgerbirger Posts: 80
    Hi,

    For all EU ML's (270/320/430/55AMG) the trailer specs are as follows:

    Trailer with brakes: 3365 kilos
    Trailer without brakes: 750 kilos
    Max. tongue load: 135 kilos

    Ball diameter is standardized in the EU: 50 mms

    - and because of this, we also have easy-fit bike carriers, that fit universally = they clamp the ball, where yours are fitted with a peg in a [square] hole. I didn't know this when ordering my JGC = US ball, too large to match my EU bike carrier. And the EU 50 mm ball's attachment was larger than the hole in the US ball-carrying thingy = major PITA. (No pun intended - although this one comes out PG++) ;-)

    Birger in Luxyland
  • scott902scott902 Posts: 46
    MB, appears to be wanting to keep ahead of the curve on SUVs and not lose market share. Since any major new model usually commands close to list price, this hopefully should increase our trade in value.

    QUESTIONS TO MERCEDES>
    1)WHO WILL BUY THEM?

    2)IN MY OPINION CURRENT ML OWNERS IS A STRONG POSSIBILITY.

    3)HOWEVER WILL MB GIVE US A CUSTOMER INCENTIVE?
  • roger23roger23 Posts: 48
    Drew & Tonychrys, thanks for the links to the above info.
  • tonychrystonychrys Posts: 1,310
    Not a problem...
    Drew and I like healthy debate ;-)
  • cavman2xcavman2x Posts: 26
    I am picking up my 2001 ML320 on Fri. Can anyone suggest useful dealer installed accessories. (NOTE: I don't tow or go off road, wife's car)Is there anything that needs in-depth explanation that I should question at delivery time. One final question, are there any problem areas/quality issues that I should keep a look out for. I must commend all of you on your informative postings. I have learned alot about these vehicles (and the people who own them)during the past week. TIA
  • abc246abc246 Posts: 305
    Drew, you made a few assumptions! There were no guardrails. I was only going about 5 mph!!! The engine was nowhere near the rev limiter!!! This was a very steep decent down an icy road. I started the decent in low range, first gear, from a stop. Trust me- I was not able to descend the mountain without sliding because the truck wanted to pick up speed in certain areas. As soon as I shifted into “drive” and let the ABS system do the work I had control again.

    By the way, the ABS certainly does know the speed and can adjust accordingly. The ABS system also knows if a wheel starts to skid and can released the brake if needed to prevent lock up (skid).

    The ML works just as this GM truck under these conditions. Please don’t mislead readers! Even my owner’s manual states NOT to down shift on slippery conditions!

    The stability system in the ML would **NOT** compensate under the above conditions. You are correct in your analysis of the ML system, but have no idea on the conditions of that road. I will try to give you an idea of what it was like. No guardrails, pure ice over a dirt road, slight amount of snow on sides of road, about a 100 foot drop off on one side, and rock edges on the other side. When I was trying to descend in low gear I was not truning the steering wheel and the truck was sliding slowly. The only way to prevent a slide under this condition is to keep the wheels turning at the same speed as the truck. If the ML were in low gear, low range, the stability system would actually have to give the engine throttle to prevent a skid (to speed up the wheels- remember you started from a stop and the truck has started to “gain” speed because of the ice). There is **NO** stability system on the market that can handle this situation, but your ABS system can.

    As I stated before, I doubt an ML will ever be in this situation, but the basic rules still apply, DO NOT down shift under slippery conditions!!! Your owner’s manual should have more information on how to ascend steep grades safely. Good luck!

    PS. I have driven on and off road for many years under very bad conditions from Death Valley to the mountains. I had more experience then the average person to descend that mountain and even I should not have done it, but I was out of cell phone range and was not able to turn around or back the truck up the mountain because of the ice. I am not sure what I would have done- but I would NOT do it again.
  • drew_drew_ Posts: 3,382
    Oops, I thought you mentioned a guardrail in your last message. Guess I misread "no guardrails" as "having guardrails". My mistake...

    I think you misunderstood. I'm not saying that you have to choose between engine braking and using the brakes. I'm saying to use both together. I think you're getting your terminology mixed up here. A locked wheel is just that...locked. It's not the same as skidding. When you said skidding, it sounds as if you're referring to oversteer or understeer.

    I've been in a similar situation as you have. I was already in 1st gear and going down the snow/ice covered slope below 10 km/hr with the ABS cycling all of the way down to the stop sign. WRT oversteer (i.e. fishtail), the ESP (electronic stability programme) would've detected the rear end starting to slide out and it would've redistributed braking effort to prevent this from happening in the first place. Yes, ESP works under throttle and under braking.

    "Under very slippery conditions (like ice) the engine braking from the lower gear wants to hold the speed steady or even slow it down, this can cause the tries to skid and loose steering control."

    What I don't understand is the above. Why would engine braking cause the wheels to lock up? It wouldn't AFAIK. I do agree with that with locked wheels, you loose all directional control.

    "The traction control system may or may not engage under these conditions, because it may not be "informed" of a skid if all wheels are sliding equal."

    As mentioned before, if the vehicle is not going the direction the driver intends it to go, the ESP will recognise this and brake the appropriate wheels to compensate. Again, I don't understand why you think that engine braking will cause the wheels to lock up by themselves.

    When you shifted into drive, did you leave your transfer case in 4WD low range? The reason I ask is because many 4WD systems disable ABS completely when the centre differential is locked (such as when low range is activated). The whole idea for ABS is to modulate each wheel individually to prevent lockup. With the centre differential locked, the front and rear axles (and wheels) are mechanically bound together and forced to spin the same rate, hence defeating the purpose of ABS.

    Since the M-class has open an open front, centre, and rear differential, ABS works all of the time.


    Drew
    Host
    Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket and Accessories message boards
  • rexconde1rexconde1 Posts: 278
    "If the ML were in low gear, low range, the stability system would actually have to give the engine throttle to prevent a skid "

    AFAIK, The ML system will not apply gas in any ituation unless prompted to. It [esp] will only apply braking power to correct for yaw.

    Also, if you are going 5MPH you would be in first gear?>! How Much lower do you expect to go? ( I actually just tried it...bored )

    Robert
  • rexconde1rexconde1 Posts: 278
    Maybe not a lock up but a jerk? but if going that slow, it shouldnt jerk...

    It does this in a downshift in emergency police mode. :)

    I can see shifting BEFORE the ice and riding the ice. But maybe shifting in the middle of the slide wouldnt be a good idea because of such said jerk. I know this isnt a good thing at the apex of a corner, which is why you should have your shifting done before the apex of a high speed turn. But again the speed thing is throwing me on this point.

    Robert
  • dennettdennett Posts: 332
    I don't mean to sound stupid, it's hard for me not to sometimes, but what does AFAIK stand for? Interesting debate going on here!
  • rexconde1rexconde1 Posts: 278
    As Far As I know

    GTH!

    Robert
    (Glad to HELP!)
  • akwasiakwasi Posts: 8
    Drew,

    I own a 2001 ML320 with the NAV system installed. How do you set your route using the Nav CD if you travel between two regions which are on two different CDs, e.g travelling from Texas to Florida?

    Also, has anyone installed the 6.8 inch LCD drop down entertainment system (has options for VCR, DVD etc) in their ML yet? I saw that in the 2001 ML accessories catalog.

    Thanks.
    Akwasi
  • planomlplanoml Posts: 244
    Thor posted a few great notes on this issue, which convinced me to wait a bit. If the exterior changes on the MY2002 aren't that different, I'm going with a MY2001. Based on the photo a few posts ago, there doesn't appear to be a huge difference. Can't wait to see more detail.
  • drew_drew_ Posts: 3,382
    I'm not sure if you can set it that way since you will need to swap map discs in between. I've never done this before, so perhaps one of our other M-class owners can shed more light on this?
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