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Chevy Blazer Blower Motor Intermittently Works

rkhedlundrkhedlund Member Posts: 4
On my 97 Blazer, the blower motor will suddenly quit working while the anti-lock brake light will simultaniously light and the cruise will switch off. A half hour later, all three will switch back on. This happens once every five or six times I drive the car. Sounds like a broken wire making and breaking a connection but where would it be to be common to all three of these items? Any ideas?


  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    You may want to try Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Electrical Problems.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    97 have a known defect in the ignition switch which is the wiring and connector thru the column and that often causes many strange problems.
  • johnnybojohnnybo Member Posts: 2
    hey.. i have the same problem..what did u find out? my pwr windows or blower motor wont work either when that abs light comes on. its definitly intermittent.
  • rkhedlundrkhedlund Member Posts: 4
    Nothing yet. I have a manual coming so I'll try to find a common source. If you find anything out, post it. Thanks.
  • shifty3y3dshifty3y3d Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 Jimmy and when I get around 30 mph I get a rumble on the right side of the truck. It stops when I turn to the right like if I'm on the interstate but as soon as I straighten out it starts again. Does anyone know what it could be?
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Check your hubs - sealed 1 piece bearings in the hub that may be failing. If you have a floor jack and jack up under the a-arm if a 4wd so CV axle does not bind you should feel/hear grating - jack it up anywhere on a 2wd as no CV.
    If thats it about $150 for a hub and have to have an 18mm wrench for brakes, a 36mm for 4wd nut, and a 2 jaw 6" puller for CV if 4wd. Dirty job so get the cardboard out! 2wd is much faster!
  • nvtitannvtitan Member Posts: 5
    I have a 2001 Cherokee Sport and over the past 4 months the blower motor would cut in and out. Last week the motor stopped working completely at any speed setting. I spent several hours browsing the internet for simular issues and found some ideas as to how to troubleshoot. I was about 10 seconds from replacing my blower motor resistor before I had one last weak attempt to avoid the cost. I lifted the hoop and located the blower motor on the passenger side. I then firmly grabbed the electrical conector and wiggled it back and forth then pushed it down firmly to re-seat it. Now the blower motor works. Only time will tell how long this will correct the issue but it did save me $110 in parts that did not require to be changed.
  • johnnybojohnnybo Member Posts: 2
    havent found anything yet, the haynes manual schematics dont really show to much..strangest thing..its been off for a couple days ..then all sudden BAM.. ABS light is on and the pwr windows /moon roof and blower motor wont work..then BAM ,ABS light is off..everything works again , its driving me crazy..thanks for any help
  • ncdavencdave Member Posts: 1
    I have a similar problem with my '97 Jimmy, but it only occurs when I start up. Usually everything works fine. But intermittently the ABS light remains on. While it's on the blower and power windows won't work. This lasts from a few seconds to over a minute. As soon as the ABS light goes off, the blower and power windows work. Sometimes during this the brake light also comes one. Sometimes the ABS light will flicker.

    The power windows intermittently haven't worked for years, but this pattern just showed up a few weeks ago.

    My dealer couldn't recreate the problem.
  • rkhedlundrkhedlund Member Posts: 4
    This is exactly my problem. I isolated the problem to somewhere on the hot side of the fuse block. I then removed the fuses for the power windows and blower motor and hot wired them. The power windows and blower motor now work with ignition key off. I now have to remember to turn the blower to off when the ignition is turned off, no big deal considering the alternative.
  • bitterbitter Member Posts: 22
    I have a 97 S-10 Blazer with 60k that has an intermittent elcectrical issue with the blower motor and windows not working. The ABS and brake light flash on and off across the dash as if it is doing a systems check while driving the vehicle. At the same time the blower motor stops working and the windows wont work. Now, it wont start at all. The dash lights do not come on when you turn the key in the on positition but the engine turns over. I was getting a multiple misfire code with a high rpm slugish response and hard starts prior to this debilitating issue. Major tune-up did not remedy the situation. I, too, have the dexcool rust issue. Had it at the 37k mile mark. Any suggestions?
  • bitterbitter Member Posts: 22
    ...I have the same problem with my 97 sport S-10 Blazer. What did you find out for the problem?
  • bitterbitter Member Posts: 22
    Did you ever find the solution to this window/blower intermittance problem? Bitter wants to know. I have a 97 blazer with 60k on it all highway miles with nothing but problems with this vehicle. Dash lights wont come on when you turn the key in the on position and it will not start at all now, engine turns over, but wont start. Pretty sure it is electrical. Help if you can.

  • chgoblazerchgoblazer Member Posts: 4
    My rear defogger and blower motor would not work. It was a intermitten problem. I removed the controls on the dash. That is one unit and is a printed circuit. For some reason when I removed and probed the connector in the back, it made a connection and started working. Not sure what happend , but it nows works.
    \There severals items to check, 1st the fuses.
    If good run a hot directly to the blower motor , to check if that is good. The plug with 2-3 wires.
    Then check the connection behind the controls behind the dash, which has to be removed, not as hard as it looks. total of six screws.
    The whole assembly pops off after the screws are removed.Don't forget a the five screws under the dash on both sides of the steering column.
    If those connection are good (orange always hot) Check the resistor for hot , it is attached to the blower motor under the hood. the resistor send current to the blower .
    Control under radio , behind the switches ( fan,temp, vents)
  • vpettittvpettitt Member Posts: 3
    My freind was pulling plug wires passenger side and I was trying to get dash off to get to radio and fan/blower switch cause neither one of em turned on I had key in and turned to on and was about to put screw driver to work ............radio came on but no blower ??
    Yeah I'am good ....lol

    I DIDENT DO ANYTHING TO IT I swear............
    The Jimmy germlin ??
    My freind was surprized I finshed my part quick Iam sitting there screw driver in hand looking like ?????????? what the??
    Yeah me and my tools
    Anyway what can I look for and any and all help is needed.New here and this is MY first Jimmy.Thanks Vernon
  • bpetitebpetite Member Posts: 1
    Check out the middle relay on fire wall under hood mine has quit severals times and i just tap it and the motor starts blowing agan.
    i have not replace the relay yet but need to
  • bitterbitter Member Posts: 22
    It is not the relay! It is your ignition switch! By ignition switch, I mean the wire cluster in the steering wheel that goes down to the fuse block the floor panel/fire wall. $100 bucks at Advance Auto. Trust me, that is what it is. It will slowly begin to deteriorate more and your dash lights will stop coming on, then your day runners wont appear when you turn the key on etc... Oh, by the way, when your blower is running intermittently, your windows wont go down and your brake light and ABS light in your dash will flash on and off like it is doing a systems check at initial start up. IGNITION SWITCH! Not the relay. I used to tap my middle relay and make everything work again, too! Everybody thinks its that cause of that very maneuver.
  • lfe357lfe357 Member Posts: 3
    Nice find! I have the same symptoms in my daughters car. When, you say ignition switch, I assume yo mean the electrical switch that the key operates. Does the switch have a harness that goes all the was to the fuse panel or do you need to buy a switch and the harness? Any special tricks to replace that component?
  • leatherneck99leatherneck99 Member Posts: 2
    edited September 2011
    I have a 1997 Chevy Blazer 4.3L. I have a new blower motor, interior fan switch, resistor, and AC components. I have 2 issues: 1) The blower motor intermittantly cuts out. 2) The highest speed does not work-it stays the same speed as the 3rd position. The windows and everything else work just fine and no lights come on the dash as some people have posted on here.

    Regarding the blower motor cutting out, I can unplug the plug on the outside of the blower motor casing (the plastic box it sits in) on the bottom left corner from the plug coming from the wiring harness. I can usually unplug it then plug it back in and it will work for a few mins before cutting out intermittantly then quitting altogether. Everyone tells me it's the resistor but I have replaced that already. The plug looks to be in good shape and I have cleaned the connectors to be sure it is making the best connection possible. When I wiggle the plug it does not cut out so it seems to be fitting nice and tight. It is almost as if unplugging it and plugging it back in resets it somehow? But only temporarily. What am I missing?

    Regarding the 4th positon of the blower speed switch: I have replaced the switch and positions 1, 2, and 3 all work properly but when clicked into the 4th and final position, nothing changes. It remains the same speed at position 3.

    Can anyone help me? I'm pulling my hair out over this! :confuse:
  • duntovduntov Member Posts: 133
    I would replace the A.C. blower motor relay.
    ACDelco 15-8719 or 15-5635 (GM 12193601)
    $47.00 MSRP
  • leatherneck99leatherneck99 Member Posts: 2
    Which relay is that? There are 3 on the firewall and the repair book I have does not specify which one does what. I attempted to do that a few weeks ago but thought I'd have to replace all 3 because I do not know which one of the three is the right one.
    I did however buy one and replace them 1 at a time and couldn't get the blower to come on at all so I returned the relay.
  • alzheimeralzheimer Member Posts: 4
    Did you find the answer? I have a 2008 Cobalt Sport with the same problems you all mention about intermitten blower fan and lights. I also suspect the "ignition cluster" whatever that is. What exactly needs to be replaced?
  • lfe357lfe357 Member Posts: 3
    Yes, it was the ignition starter swith. Cost about $100 to get the AC-Delco part at RockAuto.com. My part number was D1498C. All the wierd problems went away! It comes with a wiring harness that easily ties into the existing harness. Youn need to open up the steering column to get at the switch which connects to the mechanical device that you turn with the key.
  • rkhedlundrkhedlund Member Posts: 4
    New ignition switch solved this problem plus others such as cruise control.
  • alzheimeralzheimer Member Posts: 4
    About cruise control-- I do think it is somehow connected to the electric problems. Also, it seems that when I remotely start the Cobalt, the fan quits but unsure. It didn't work for days until one morning I start the car via the key in ignition and the fan worked. Seems like a consensus and I should replace the ignition start switch but may be a different part number for the Cobalt. Thanks so much. :)
  • lfe357lfe357 Member Posts: 3
    The cruise control leads could also run through the ignition switch. When you see the wiring harness for that switch you can see that it handles many connections. When the switch goes bad, everytime you use it there is a chance for a connection to open up or reconnect so the problems appear to be random.
  • OtterwanOtterwan Member Posts: 1
    I had this exact problem. All four windows and the blower quit. I replaced the driver's side master door switch with no luck. I got an Echlin ignition switch from NAPA, replaced it, and now everything works perfectly. Be advised if you attempt this you will need a very small Torx socket (socket, not bit) for the two screws holding the upper steering column cover and the two holding the switch itself to the column. You might be able to get by with a 4 mm six point socket, or do what I did and put a #25 Torx deck screw in a pair of Vice-Grips and use that like a nut driver.

    Anyway, no windows, no blower, it IS your ignition switch!
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