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Town & Country/Grand Caravan Problem Codes

What does this mean? Exhaust Gas Recirculation Circuit Malfunction. Cod PO403


  • I have a 00' town and country minivan. my engine light came on today, and I got it checked out. Its a leak in the emission tube and needs to be fixed. They said I needed the length of the pipe to fix it, but I don't know which one it is. I was wondering if there was anyone out there that knows where it is. and/or knows what size it is. I have a 00' town and country mini van with 3.3l engine. 2wd.
  • 97xpresso97xpresso Posts: 249
    You have to be more specific. What trouble code is the check engine lite on for? There is no such thing as a "emmission tube"
  • My emissions light is on and was told I had a small leak in the evap line.
    I have codes P 0442 and P 0456 Can anyone tell me what they mean? Thanks, Jack
  • Karen_SKaren_S Posts: 5,095
    Both of these codes indicate small leaks in the evap system. Could be a problem with your gas cap. Could be it wasn't tightened well after fueling? Or it may need to be replaced with a new cap. Also, check the evap system for cuts and/or holes in lines/hoses.

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  • I have a 96 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.3L V6 w/ 140K miles. Engine suddenly began running rough, check engine light came on, and vehicle stalled after another minute or so. Mechanic replaced Cam Sensor and Ignition Coil. Vehicle started up and ran fine for about five miles and then same thing happened. Based on code 351, Ignition Coil again replaced and vehicle again started and ran fine for about five miles before happening a third time. Code again shows 351. What is causing this?
  • csfacccsfacc Posts: 1
    I have a similar problem with a 97 3.8 Town and Country: The car occasionally misses/loses power. Sometimes it won't start. I replaced a bad gas cap after an evap error. a few days later same old thing. Then a cam shaft sensor error occured. Replaced that. I put a test light on the coil pack connector from computer. When it won't start, it will only fire the plugs for the first 3 revs or so. The ASD relay is remaining on as it should.
  • mele503mele503 Posts: 4
    i have a 96 T&C van. i got the codes from the check engine light flashing. other people have like P codes. how do i get those? someone said where the mileage is. i have tried turning it on and off three times and it doesn't show me anything in the mileage. Can someone please help me????
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    If your van is a 96 (or later), then it should have the OBD-II system. The easiest way to read the diagnostic codes is with an OBD-II scan tool. Lots of companies make them. You should be able to buy a basic one (capable of reading and clearing codes) for under $50. You plug it into the OBD-II port (a connector usually located under the dash someplace), turn the key on (but do not start the engine), and it reads and displays any codes.

    I don't know about your '96 T&C, but I had a '96 Cadillac Deville that would display the codes on the instrument cluster after some ignition key and/or instrument panel push button sequence. Your T&C probably can do the same thing, but I do not know the magical sequence to make that happen.

    Buy a cheap scanner. You can use it on any 1996 or later vehicle.

    Some auto parts stores will read the codes for you free of charge. I think Auto Zone is one of them, but have never used them myself.
  • ahasanahasan Posts: 2
    My power mirrors on bothe sides stopped working.Couldnot find the fuse for the power mirrors.Couldnot pull out the switches from the dash.What to do?My mechanic says that i have to service the fuel system.How can the be done.I have engine light on and the code says that I have to replace the EGR switch.Can i do it myself? I am new to this forum .I cannot afford to spend lot of money on my car.Help shall be greatly appreciated.
  • tedebeartedebear Posts: 832
    If you have an owner's manual you can find the location for the power mirror fuse in it. Most likely it's under the dash on the driver's side with a cluster of others.

    Why did your mechanic say that your fuel system needs to be serviced? Is he talking about just replacing the fuel filter or something else? Is he saying this just because of the miles? If he's talking about a fuel injector cleaning you can probably get good results yourself if you buy a bottle of a QUALITY injector cleaner at an auto parts store and add it to the fuel tank. Pay attention to the recommended ratio of gas to cleaner on the label before you just pour in an entire bottle.

    Replacing the EGR valve can be done by a home mechanic but it's sometimes not all that easy to do, especially if exhaust heat has made the fasteners nearly impossible to loosen. You can purchase a new EGR valve at an auto parts store but be sure you have someone lined up to do the work who is willing to crawl under the vehicle and get his/her hands dirty.
  • ahasanahasan Posts: 2
    The fuse box is under the hood.But it doesnot have the fuse for power mirrors.Someone said that it is with the power mirror control switch.How do I take the switch from the dash.
    ref. fuel system service; My engine light came up and i went to a shop to decode it and there the mechanic said that i must replace the egr switch and fuel service.I dont know what he means by fuel service.the code was P0401.
    I am willing to go under the engine and try to replace the egr switch.Where is it located on this car.
    Tons of thanks for your help.
    I am grateful
  • tedebeartedebear Posts: 832
    The fuse box is under the hood.

    There should be a second fuse box under the instrument panel on the driver's side. Look on the inside of the cover for anything related to the power mirrors.

    On the EGR valve, if you see a pic of what one looks like it shouldn't be too hard to locate under the hood. Although they are replaced from above, sometimes you have to get underneath to loosen the large tube that goes to the exhaust. That's the one that can give you fits from the exhaust heat over the years making it nearly impossible to remove. I've screwed up some of those tubes trying to wrench those things loose before.

    Here are some links that might help:

    EGR Valve Inspection

    EGR Valve Testing

    EGR Valve Replacing

    Replacement EGR Valve for 2001 Grand Caravan 3.3L

    You might be able to get by with just cleaning out any carbon and crud (for lack of a better word at 2:00 a.m.) from the EGR valve and intake manifold ports that it bolts onto. You'll see what I mean after you remove the old valve. I've used Berryman's B12 intake cleaner and wire pipe cleaners in the ports to loosen and remove deposits in the past.

    Also, carefully check any vacuum hoses related to the EGR for holes, damage or looseness. I would think that the mechanic would have already done this.

    BTW, that P0401 code is an Exhaust Gas Recirculation - Insufficient Flow fault.
  • pagraberpagraber Posts: 1
    My 2001 Town & Country LXi (3.8L) has recently needed the Radiator fan replaced (broken fan blades). When I cleared the trouble code for the fan I found that there were three other codes P0003 Fuel Volume Regulator Control Circuit Low and P0200 Injector Circuit along with P3FE0 - Check service notebook.

    Any insight on what this means? Where to I start to diagnose the problem? I've checked the web, but haven't found anything that was more than "you have an injector problem"
  • jan4glenjan4glen Posts: 1
    Check engine light in my 2005 Chrysler town and Country
    came on, I did the on off on off thing to get code and it came
    up P0406. Found online that this means Exhaust Gas Recirculation sensor A circuit High. I have know idea what this means. Could anyone explain this and is it costly to fix.
  • slktomslktom Posts: 1
    i had the exact same problem on my 2001 GC. after reading several posts this morning, i took the lower half of my dash apart, removed the mirror switch, etc. don't waste your time. the fuse is located in the main fuse box under the hood on the drivers side. the fuse is marked "A/C clutch". (??????) i had removed the fuse when the clutch on my a/c compressor went, why the mirrors share that fuse i will never guess. if your a/c clutch is bad and blowing the fuse, you can try what i did, i pulled the a/c relay below the fuse. i hope this solves one of your problems.
  • most likely it is not the cap, it is the filler tube, and you can get it from the dealer for $75
  • How do I bring up the diagnostic codes for a 2005 Chrysler Town & Country doing it myself?
  • smorris3smorris3 Posts: 2
    My 2001 T&C LX has the ABS light and the Brake light on. I had it scanned and the mechanic said the code was unknown to him. It had something to do with a valve issue (?). I checked the relays and all we OK. What next?
  • We can't really tell you much if you do not give us the code numbers.
  • I have a 2004 Chrysler Town and Country Van. The check engine light is on, and the diagnostic code P0032 is coming up. What does this mean?
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,925
    P0032: HO2S Heater Control Circuit High (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

    Now, what does that mean.... hmmm..... ?
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    This involves one of your front (ahead of the catalytic converter) O2 sensors. They have a heating element in them to make them reach operating temperature faster, so that the ECU goes into closed-loop operation sooner thus reducing emissions.

    This code indicates something is wrong with the heater for that O2 sensor. The heater element in the sensor could be bad; there could be a wiring/grounding problem; or whatever sends the +12V to the heater could be bad.
  • on my 2001 town&country with the car off push the button on the milage counter when the trip portion is up hold it for 5 seconds and have a pen and paper ready if its the same it will give you the softwear version first then the ready to write mine went kinda fast..LOL good luck
  • My 2005 Grand Caravan had engine light several months ago. On 7/12/09, the dealer replaced the Exhaust Gas Circulation Valve.The engine was cleared.
    * On 9/04/09, 814 miles later, I took it to Emission testing, and it failed - "Test failed due to excessive OBD monitors not ready, return after the vehicle has been driven in accordance with the manufacturer drive cycle." The testing operator and the dealer told me to drive more, and I did.
    * On 9/21/09, after 463 miles later, I took the van for the Emission Testing again. This time the testing was 'Aborted': "Test aborted due to excessive OBD monitors not ready, return after the vehicle has been driven in accordance to the manufacturer drive cycle." After talking with Dodge engineer, the dealer replaced anoth sensor - The Oxygen Sensor.
    * On 10/22/09, after 466 miles later, I had the Emission Testing again. The test was aborted again. Due to the same 'Excessive ODB monitors not ready ....
    * Then after checking the van, the dealer said the computer was defective. They ordered it and replaced it on 10/27/09. The dealer told me to drive for 50 miles and it should be fine.
    * On 10/30/09, after 92 miles of driving, I took my van for the Emission testing. The test was aborted again due to the same "Excessive OBD monitors not ready, ..."
    My big question is: What is wrong with my van? Right now I suspect that it might be something wrong with the Testing program itself.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,925
    It might have to do with the type of driving you do. If you take short, low speed trips, there are several loops that will not complete. I have had a couple cars that post periodic trouble codes, so I keep my scanner with me and read/clear them as necessary. Many times, I have done this only 20-30 miles prior to an emissions test, and it went without hiccup. However, my trip to the test site involves mostly highway driving, which is a required part of the loop.

    You should be able to get ahold of the procedure in your owner's manual or from the dealer. If you follow that and still no luck, maybe it is the test facility. Have you gone to the same one every time? If so, try a different one.
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • Thanks very much for your comments.
    I want to clarify that most of the mileage was on highway drives. My issue right now is that the dealer has no idea what is wrong. The dealer mechanics have contacted the Dodge co. several times, as I was told. To me, they all are just guessing. They have replaced two exhaust related sensors and a computer (maybe just a module?). Yesterday, I talked with the dealer again, and they said they have to talk to Dodge engineer again.

    I also talked yesterday with a Connecticut DMV emission engineer on the phone. He said would call me and would see me at the testing station today. But so far, he has not called me yet.

    Have you had any experience with testing stations that their softawre were not compatible to all kinds of cars.

    Note: A few weeks ago, before the computer was replaced, a friend of mine used his tester (a $50-kind) to checked my van out after I had told him the issue. We found every thing was good, but a few days later I took the van to have the test again and it was aborted again.

    I have spent more than 10 trips between the test facility and the dealer in two months. It was fortunate that I have just lost my job and had time for this headache.

    Thanks again.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,925
    I have never experienced compatibility issues with the testing computers. That said, I have only run three different vehicles through computer-interfaced emissions testing and all of them were late 90's models (OBD II).

    Your 2005 model likely uses the OBD II CAN interface, but I still would not expect there to be compatibility issues. As I recommended before, taking the van to a different testing shop could help clear that as a possible source.

    Also, your dealership should be able to use a laptop-based real-time scanner to monitor the vehicle while it is in use. If a circuit is failing to set as "ready," I would think a program like that could help pinpoint the source fairly well.
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • This morning, I took my van to a Technical Center of the Connecticut State, and had my van retested. After I had explained and showed all the documents from the testing facility and dealer, the Technical Center retested my van. The test was PASSED. I asked what was the problem. The answer was "Some cars are very difficult to test."

    When I got back home, I looked at the 'Vehicle Inspection Report'. They used PCTSI test type, instead of OBDII that the testing facility had used before.I do not understand the difference, but there is a comment at the bottom of the report:

    "This vehicle is not ready to determine the status of the pollution control system and the vehicle received an alternate emissions test. On the next inspetion cycle, this readiness failure may result ina reject of the vehicle."

    This means that I'm not out of the hook yet!
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,925
    Sounds like they ended up passing it based on the tailpipe emissions.

    It is odd that something is preventing it from being in "ready "status, yet you are getting no codes indicating a bad sensor or some other fail. Perhaps monitoring your fuel economy, etc., over the next year or so versus prior (if you did that at all) will help to determine the source.

    At least you can keep driving it for the time being!
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • I am having a similar problem with a 99 caravan. Ready codes will set but once I cycle the key they will reset. I have had at least 3 tests and drive the vehicle with a scanner to monitor them. My frined had a similar problem on a liberty, they found the PCM was losing memory when key was off. the constant to the PCM was not working. I am in the process of getting a pin out to check if that is what is wrong with my van. My brother in law is a chrysler mechanic and he is stumped as well. We are checking the 12 volt to the pcm to make sure they are being provided. Don;t know if this will help but thought I would mention.
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