Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Caravan/Voyager Engine Problems



  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    I find it highly unlikely that it is the timing chain as they are quite robust. I know of a couple of instances where the factory chain and gear set lasted over 300,000 miles with no problems or noise.

    Best Regards,
  • Ok...thanks again...we'll do further testing and I'll let you know.
  • My '06 Grand Caravan makes a whirring kind of whining noise. It changes pitch when gears shift and I can hear it on the highway, around town as well as when idling. It happens when engine is warm but outside temp is cool. Dealer said he has 2 that do this and it has something to do with battery re-charging. My reliable mechanic has agreed. No one has offered a solution to this very annoying situation. This is my 3rd Caravan and I am ready to drive it into a tree to get the noise to quit. Any suggestions?
  • Unfortunately every where read this random knocking problem, no one knows what's the cause. I have this same problem and is looking for some answer, as to what is causing it.
    Will you tell me if you did get this resolved and what was the cause?
  • kierankieran Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 odel (bought new in 2001) Grand Voyager. The motor has developed a chirping noise when it start cold. As it warms it changes to a tapping. The recurren ce of the noises increases with the revs of the motor, and is present when the car is stationary and idling. The Chrysler dealer does not know the casue of the fault but wants $3,000 in labour to remove the motor and replace it, plus whatever it costs to diagnose and repair the fault. The motor seems to be running perfectly and was tuned only a week ago without problem.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Common noises from the 3.3 and 3.8 engine line:

    1) Upper end tapping or clicking: Fairly common complaint, not only from minivan owners but virtually all cars these days. Noise is usually attributed to the "clicking" of the fuel injectors, is considered to be normal and not in any way harmful.
    2) Mid engine tapping or rattling immediately following a cold start: Fairly common complaint from Generation 2 and Generation 3 minivan owners. Noise is from the cam followers and is normally attributed to either the grade of engine oil and/or the quality of the "Drainback valve" in the oil filter. Personally I'm skeptical about the oil claim, however, I have found that the filter DOES make a difference. Over the years I've tried a number of oil filters on our Gen 3 3.8 liter van, and the one that keeps it the quietest following a cold start is oddly enough the Ford/Motorcraft FL-1A, a filter that is roughly twice the displacement than one that Chrysler originally mounted on our engines (meaning that an oil/filter change requires about 5.25 quarts of oil to bring the oil level up to the "Full" mark on the dipstick).
    3) Bottom end tapping: Usually attributed to either the oil pump or the timing chain assembly. Both of our 3.8 liter DGCs (one from 1998 and the other from 2003) make this noise, and have since new. The 1998 now has in excess of 150,000 miles on it and still operates like new, ditto the 2003 with only 99,000 miles on it. While I'm not sure what is making the noise, it is a common one from these engines and one that is apparently harmless.
    4) Chirping: Very common noise from these engines, and almost always attributed to either a cheap aftermarket serpentine belt (the vast majority of complaints) and/or a pully that isn't freely rolling. Remedy is usually as simple as buying a top of the line (as in at least $40) Napa, Gates, Dayco or Mopar belt. If the belt is both new and one of the above, the tension arm and idler pulleys are suspect and should be replaced. If the noise still persists (very uncommon), then the A/C compressor and/or the water pump and/or the power steering pump are suspect (in that order).

    Long story short, all of these noises are typically benign and are just part of the beast.

    I hope this helps.

    Best Regards,
  • I have a 2005 Grand Caravan, and I have the same problem. A horrible rattling noise. It started at about 48,000 miles. The first time that I took it in to the dealer I was told it was the harmonic balancer, and it would cost me 250.00 to replace it. I was assured that the noise would then be gone....only it was not. When I took it back again they told me that the noise was normal by Dodge standards. I took it to another dealership, and was told that the noise is an internal engine not normal, but ok per dodge standards. I am still fighting with dodge to attempt to get the new engine that I am entitled under my warranty. I am taking it to another shop this week.....can't wait to hear what they have to say.
  • Let me know what they say. I service many of these and haven't notice any of them with this noise which Chrysler says is, in fact, normal and "due to the aluminum timing chain cover allowing an audible noise."
    Bob :mad:
  • This problem is fixed! It was actually caused by the power-steering. Having the fluid drained and system flushed has resolved the noise problem.
  • 27612761 Posts: 3
    I have a 2004 dodge caravan with a 3.3l. Engine is usually warmed up for approx 3-5 minutes prior to driving and makes no noise. When driven there is no noise until you slow or stop the vehicle then a whirring noise begins and gets louder as engine RPMs increase. Noise will eventually go away, after approx 10minutes of driving and will not return. This sounds like a pump cavitating, I checked all fluids and they are all full. I also had an engine code for evap. emissions system. Any advice?
  • 27612761 Posts: 3
    the power steering noise makes the most sense to me. Thanks for the comments, I'll let you know. I usually deal with heavy equipment, this is somewhat new to me. Thanks again! :shades:
  • I had a similar noise which eventually turned to a louder more scraping type sound on my 99 3.8 Grand Voyager. Several mechanics could not locate the problem. As it turned the noise was the camshaft which eventually broke. I have researched and found many other 3.3 and 3.8 with similar problems. I would have your cam bearings replaced. Mine froze and caused a break in the cam and damage to my valves.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Uhhh, maybe you have me confused with someone else. My 1998 3.8 liter engine is not making any such noise, even though it has over 150,000 on the clock. That and my Used Oil Analysis shows very low lead and tin readings indicating that my bearings are still in very good shape.

    Best Regards,
  • OK..Was not respionding to your post ..not sure why it was posted as reply to your post.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 11,152
    I followed it - appeared to me as though you were replying to a post that Shipo, also, had replied. The original poster listed a metallic rattle as his problem.
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • Yeah ..I just saw that ..thanks
  • Hi: Shipo

    I have a 03 dodge grand caravan, 3.3L engine, with only 36000 miles on it
    & it has noise like a tick or knock.
    It had this noise when I bought it in 03, didn't think much of it thought
    it must be normal.
    Then I read on a forum some where that the 3.3L / 3.8L used the same head bolt as
    the 2.2L, but they used a larger washer for the 3.3L / 3.8L. The head bolt washer was
    large enough to decompress a valve spring when installed, if not careful.

    So that got me thinking, & that's not good, but anyway I have been checking
    everything & coming up with nothing. My dealer said it was normal but of course
    I didn't believe him right ? :confuse: He just wants to get rid of me . :) So I thought anyway.

    Then I start looking all over the internet & Lo & Behold last night I stumble onto
    carspace automotive forum, & there I find it, this wonderful article you wrote on
    Common noises from the 3.3 and 3.8 engine line, YA HOOOoooooo the very thing
    that my 3.3 is doing.

    Thank You Very Much for this article, now I can just drive & enjoy the ride

    Thank You again
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Glad I could help. ;-)

    Best Regards,
  • I just bought mt first Grand Voyager you won't believe the deal I got it is the classic tale of the little old lady who could no longer drive. it is a 1994 with only 55000 miles on it. in mint condetation. it is the LE model. i need to know iv it came with the tow package, the VIN number is 1p4gh54l3rx214831. Does anyone out there know what options came standard with this van and is there any way that I can find out what options were ordered with it. please help if you can. Thanks Lew.
  • i have a 96 voyager 3.0 that knocks not when i start it but about 2 3 min after and then it goes away after about 5 min but comes back sometimes when im driving .and i think im geting loss of power (its my grams van lookin at it for her) but it dont knock all the time .i drove it about 60 miles stoped reved the motor no noise. changed the oil slicked 50 it. started it no noise let it set all night and back to the same thing the motor has 100.000 miles on it oil changed every 3000 the van is ment dont know if the motor is bad (rode bearing ) or if its the crank sensor :confuse:
  • well i took it to 3 auto shops 1 said it was the timing chain the other said the tenchin pulley so i checked both and were good but in the course of lookin at them i did find the noise its coming out of the purge solenoid so i hope this will help some of you :) i was also told it was the motor that was bad
  • utthestautthesta Posts: 1

    I bought used 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan SE, on April 17, 2008 (not even a month yet) from HENDRICK DODGE : Leading Dodge Dealership in Cary, North Carolina, NC

    Almost after a week this problem is happening, it is very random. It happened 3 times. Last time it happened at 15-20 miles per hour while I was making a right turn.
    The engines shuts down and steering locks. I could have met with a major accident last time when it happened.

    Took to the dealer from where I bought, he is saying that he could not reproduce the problem, so, as far as he is concerned, there is no problem.
    But this is major safety issue, it can pose great danger since it can cause major accident.

    I also got the full extended service warranty (full bumper to bumper) from Chrysler, they are not helping me either. They are saying since this vehicle is bought not even a month back, the problem came with the vehicle, they are asking the dealer to fix it.

    Any advice?
  • ksmedicksmedic Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 dodge caravan. Wife was driving it yesterday when it experienced a loss of power and shut down while driving home. Let it sit for awhile, and it started back up. I drove it to work this morning, same thing. I had a similar problem with a 94 pontiac and it was the equivialant of a bad pickup sensor. Once the sensor cooled down, you could drive it until it got hot again and everything shut down. Relplaced the one in the pontiac and have had no problems since then. I plan on replacing the one in the van this week. Any other suggestions in case this is not the problem??? Thanks for any help you all can give me.
  • goldrenchgoldrench Posts: 9
    The most common problem I've seen with your symptoms indicate an impending fuel pump failure...qiuts when it gets hot, runs after it cools down.
  • peycasspeycass Posts: 4
    Goes dead while driving. Will start up again. Have had it in two different shops a week at a time, and cannot find the problem. Brought it home from last shop 35 miles away and drove around town a few times. Tried to go out of town, but the vehicle jerked and then in a little bit, shut down. This was the first time for the jerking. Tried to drive on but after a few times of failing on the highway, went back home without a problem. It has a new fuel filter and pump and a sensor for crank shaft. Never had a problem with this vehicle until a couple months ago. Need help.
  • goldrenchgoldrench Posts: 9
    The symptoms you describe indicate a loss of fuel pressure or volume IMHO.
    I believe most Chrysler products rely on the oil pressure sending unit to power the fuel pump relay which keeps the pump running after starting the engine... a safety guard in case of an accident which would shut off the pump if the engine isn't running after an accident. There are tests which can be run to determine which is at fault, WHEN THE PROBLEM OCCURS. That being said, I'd replace Both the Oil pressure sending unit, AND the Fuel Pump relay, about $50.00 for parts. Note: Older Vans had the relay built into the ECM (Computer) and the whole thing needed to be replaced...expensive! Check with your parts supplier for listings on both parts. If the problem persists you have a bad fuel pump..."New" doesn't always mean "Good"!
    Good luck!
  • peycasspeycass Posts: 4
    The fuel pump relay is part of the ECM on this model. I have been told that when the technicians plugged into our computer, if the computer was bad they would not get a code. Is this true? The reason for not finding the problem. Thank you so much for your information. PEYCASS
  • goldrenchgoldrench Posts: 9
    Well, yes and no. Some Chrysler products are difficult to make "talk" but there are ways if you have the right equipment and knowledge to use it. Very few shops have have both...WE do.
    Anyway, from what you said and describe at this point, I'd have to say you're experiencing a cam sensor, crank sensor or both failure when the engine reaches operating temperature on the warmest side.
    Here's how to do a simple test: Take a bottle of ice water with you on a test drive and when it (the car) quits douse the sensors one at a time and bingo! If it starts and runs normally you"ve found the problem. We've learned the hard way to replace both, even if only one is bad. If you need more you can e-mail me from our website

  • peycasspeycass Posts: 4
    Where is the cam sensor located on this model? Peycass
Sign In or Register to comment.