99 Chevy Blazer lower ball joint replacement?

jbird91372jbird91372 Member Posts: 3
edited March 2014 in Chevrolet
what is the best wat to replace lower balljoints on my 99 blazer? remove brakes, rotor, hub, cv axle? it has the original ones on there, riveted in, but no room to grind rivets off, any suggestions?


  • bammbammbammbamm Member Posts: 2
    Hi all, I have a Jimmy that needs a bunch of front end work (under 100K) front wheel bearings, upper and lower ball joints, idler arm and now a driver's side drive axle and shocks.

    Everything else is apart and in the process of being replaced. Passenger's side is done.
    Driver's side is 1/2 done, but I need to pull the drive axle. According to Alldata DIY they make a brief mention of removing the Differential carrier shield, they provide a link to it, but no actual how to. Then they jump to tapping on the tripot with some wood to disengage the locking spring on the axle shaft.

    My question is, do I need to remove the shield, I have the bolts out, but it seems as if it's attached behind the frame.

    2ndly, anyone have another way to pop out the axle shaft, there is really no room to get a piece of wood into the driver's side tripot and knock it out?

    Thanks in advance.

  • bammbammbammbamm Member Posts: 2
    It seems I missed one bolt that was obfuscated from my view.
    That said, once you get the cover removed, I used a smaller piece of wood that fit on the tripot assy. With a re-manufactured drive axle ($75.00 with a $75.00 core deposit) :D

    Anyway, once you tap out the axle, the shield comes off with it and then yo gently slide the cover from the shaft, slide the new shaft in (no lube req'd) and then reassemble. You'll need a crow's foot to put the new bolts in as the re-manufactured tripot assy is a solid cylinder as opposed to the orig. assy that is more of a 3 leaf clover shape.

    Was a bit of a PITA, but once I stopped off and grabbed a metric Crow's foot set, my work was MUCH easier.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    You may want to try Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Yes but only have to pull the hub off the CV axle but not remove - but if this has higher mileage over 100k when you next have to remove the steering knuckle/spindle off both sets of ball joints I would put rebuilt CVs in - often happens right after you get doen the CVs rip so have to do it all again, and in fact if 100-120k and keeping it put the hubs on now too - money but its the labor that kills you.

    Anyway after you pop the steering tie rod off then need a pickle fork to pop the top ball joint out of the knuckle assembly which usually rips the boots (no other way) and then I remove the lower in a vise with that steering knuckle off. For $20 each more you can do the top one also while all apart. Enjoy - I have a large 6" 2 jaw puller for the hub and that CV nut is 36mm at most stores. You can cut, drill, or cold chisel the rivets off and wear eye protection!
  • jbird91372jbird91372 Member Posts: 3
    thanks man, figured as much, was looking (hopeing) for an easier way, and your right while its apart might as well replace everything, it has 130k on it,lol guess i just didnt want to waste my whole saturday , but thanks
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    The inner CVs are an internal snap ring type so a secret to release is to hit it with a hammer and with the other hand use a pry bar to apply some outword pressure between the case and CV otherwise you will be banging away forever and that snap ring will not release. Also note how the hub sensor lead is positioned for the new reinstall and there is a connector for it on the frame that unsnaps.

    Yep - it will be all day and the floor will be a mess so get that cardboard ready to lay down. Don't forget to grease all when done as well as the caliper slides in the brackets.
  • jbird91372jbird91372 Member Posts: 3
    thanks for the tips you have been real helpful, i bought all the parts today, so no fishin and beer drinkin for me saturday :cry: , but im sure ill need a COLD one when im done lol thanks man
  • alankansasalankansas Member Posts: 1
    I currently have a 2000 Blazer torn apart. Trying to replace the driver's side CV shaft but can't get it to release. Three of us worked on it for 6 hours(one a retired auto mechanic). He said he has never seen a shaft that difficult to remove. We are all baffled as to what to try next. The pry bar solution you suggested did not work. We have tried pry bars, driving two chisels up either side between the cv housing and case and finally gave up and tried using a large slide hammer while simulaneously prying on it. Nothing will pop it loose. We did try taking the cover off but there is no way to get inside to remove the clip. You'd have thought the idiots at GM would have used a round snap ring instead of a squre shouldered one! It would have made life a lot easier! Any other suggestions? HELP!
  • traifordtraiford Member Posts: 4
    Just bought a 2001 Blazer from my boss. Stopped at store , then it wouldn't start. Finally got it jumped and as I was driving the dash lights and guages were going crazy. Every dash lights turning on, flashing, fuel, speedo, and tach would drop out and then come back . Took it to Autozone and they said alt. diodes were bad. Put on new alternator ...same thing. At idle everthing seems fine. Once I accelerate the dash goes crazy. Here is the really stange thing...I put it in drive...stand on brake and rev the engine to 2K rpms and no problems...its only when it accelerates with movement. FYI the battery still won't charge.

    Please HELP!!
  • jmoz83jmoz83 Member Posts: 1
    i had the same problem on my 93 and the fusible link conected to my alt. was bad .the wire was bad inside the jacket so there was no visible sign
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Also check that you have a clean tight ground between the engine and frame, and the battery and engine.

    Bad grounds can do all sorts of weird stuff.
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